Anyone know anything about the Suzo Happ Polygon Toppers on Ebay

[poppo]

your searial lines are probably coming off the buffer chip. start at the first y5925 and work backwards frome that it if goes to the buffer it is off board if it goes to the mystery chip it would be easier to drive the y5925 directly.

That's the problem, it's extremely difficult to follow any traces. And the mystery chips are at the far end of the board. But yes, I am thinking about just bypassing all of the mystery stuff and driving them directly.

[vtyler]

you know 3 lines from the cable go into the LC541 octal buffer check the corresponding outputs to the serial inputs on the Y5925 sdi clk and le most likely just go pin to pin with a multimeter maybe you will get lucky.

[poppo]

Well, I received my topper from southernslots (that works), but one thing I don't really like is the back-light on it. It has 4 big LEDs, and when lit it acts like 4 spotlights on the plexi. On the jumnkman1 version, the back-light is a strip of LED's around the edge of the plexi with a special diffuser that makes the light more uniform. So, I am in the process of doing a modification of taking the working "chaser" boards off of the new topper and installing them on the older topper front. The front of the topper is slightly different, and it requires some very minor exacto trimming for the boards to fit. But all of the mounting holes, etc. line up fine. So I will end up with a hybrid of the two.  I'll post some pictures later.

<edit> here is a picture of the new style (southernslots) LED chaser boards installed on old style (junkman1) topper front. As you can see the white "insert" is the back-light assembly. This assembly clips into the old style topper front differently than the new style, so you can't just swap that part. The red arrows show where I had to trim the plastic just a hair for the chaser boards to fit without forcing them into place. You need to do it for all four boards. I suppose I could have shaved the boards instead, but did not want to risk messing them up. If anyone does this, just be sure to put some tape over the LED holes in the topper front so plastic shavings don't fall in. Total time to complete about 20 minutes.

The bottom part of the picture shows how the new style topper front is made. Since the back-light part of the back of the topper, the plexi alone just "clips" into place (red circles).

Both style fronts fit the same to the back half.

Click on pictures for larger view.

Oh, one more thing. The newer working chaser rings operate at 12VDC but draw less than a half an amp. The older style back light draws less than .2 amp. I found that using an old laptop (regulated) power supply that outputs about 19VDC works well for the back light as I don't like them blazingly bright. And you can tap off of that with a couple dollar 12V regulator to get the 12V for the chasers. In other words, you don't need a big honkin power supply for these things.  

[4 Deuces]

Well, I received my topper from southernslots (that works), but one thing I don't really like is the back-light on it. It has 4 big LEDs, and when lit it acts like 4 spotlights on the plexi. On the jumnkman1 version, the back-light is a strip of LED's around the edge of the plexi with a special diffuser that makes the light more uniform. So, I am in the process of doing a modification of taking the working "chaser" boards off of the new topper and installing them on the older topper front. The front of the topper is slightly different, and it requires some very minor exacto trimming for the boards to fit. But all of the mounting holes, etc. line up fine. So I will end up with a hybrid of the two.

    I also ended up with a hybrid to get the best of both.  Only, I didn't trim with an exacto.  It was snug, so I just went with it.

And, the official word from Suzo-Happ is they do not have a 24v harness for this particular topper from SouthernSlots.  Fortunately, that's the easiest of all harnesses to make, so I tapped into the fan in the upper cabinet. 

For now, my project is complete and this is the most expensive topper I own.

Many thanks to Poppo!

:Dave

[4 Deuces]

Here is the email from Suzo-Happ regarding the topper from SouthernSlots:

Hello Dave,

Looks like you have one of the dedicated Toppers which has very limited functionality.

The 91440000 was for IGT OEM use only.  By contact with IGT we can only sell it as a replacement on a game that already had this exact model.

I’m assuming that we did not sell it to this customer, but they just happen to have one and want to use it on some game?  They could get it to work if they can make a harness to match the pin-out.  They could even modify the 95-2866-00 harness (the harness must be modified, since the harness is normally for the  95-2852-00 RGB Poly Topper).  Attached is the pin-out for reference.

Only a IGT game that is matched to use this part number will be able to communicate with it.  However, if it is just powered up, it will go through a default light sequence, and the backlight will light up.  The difference from our stand alone (non-IGT exclusive version) is that the PROG and MODE buttons will be functional, but it will not store the changes in memory.  

In other words, it will work, but it will not be fully functional.  

                Thank You.

And this is the email from Suzo-Happ regarding Junkman1's topper:

I was able to find this PCB used in the Polygon RGB topper for IGT.
RS770-E01-01 PCBA, CONTROL-IGT SERIAL FOR IGT 91440900 TOPPER
My buyer tells me that this pcb is only sold to IGT and I could not find any other one you could use.

[poppo]

I also ended up with a hybrid to get the best of both.  Only, I didn't trim with an exacto.  It was snug, so I just went with it.

Glad I'm not the only one who decided to do that. I was really afraid of breaking a board, so I didn't want to force them in. And since southernslots seems to be out of them now, I did not want to break this one.

Only a IGT game that is matched to use this part number will be able to communicate with it.  However, if it is just powered up, it will go through a default light sequence, and the backlight will light up.  The difference from our stand alone (non-IGT exclusive version) is that the PROG and MODE buttons will be functional, but it will not store the changes in memory.

Since the mode and color buttons work on the southernslots version, I'm already working on that mode save problem. Step one is installing two push buttons on the outside of the unit to manually select the mode and color (which may be sufficient as I don't mind the "full demo" mode that it defaults to). The next step will be to use a some sort of cheap PIC controller to just automatically select the right mode and color combo when powered up. Probably only needs like 4 lines of code. Of course I always over do things, so mine will probably have an LCD display that shows what mode and color is currently selected and allow you to change it from the PIC, and it will remember the last setting at power up. 

[4 Deuces]

If you're tired and need a nap, here's the sequence.  :-)

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/vspApeqnd7A&rel=0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/vspApeqnd7A&rel=0</a>

[poppo]

If you're tired and need a nap, here's the sequence.  :-)

Interesting. Mine has a different sequence and has more  white and purple segments mixed in.

[uniman]

Nice topper 4 Dueces!
I see those polygons on IGT Red Hot Fusion machines at a local casino. They have them linked to one controller.
Wouldn't you know IGT has a hold on the controller so no one else can have one. 
Wonder why Ceasar's had so many toppers and no controllers in that auction?

[777sizzler]

Well I approve of most all of these posts,the effort,work etc. .  Some in the posts are inccorect but it is all working out.  That being said I have now aprox. 70 of these with inserts in them.  These will be a on-going and demanding item to come.  I myself like these alot.    .

[4 Deuces]

deleted

[poppo]

Some in the posts are inccorect ...... 

Such as??

[4 Deuces]

Hey Poppo,

Ignore Barry.  His post contributed absolutely nothing to this thread, no help, no insight, nothing, except his opinion, which no one cares about.  Instead, he used this thread to let everyone know that he as "aprox. 70 of these" (note "approx." abbreviated with only one "p") that he believes will go up in value, even though these toppers are starting to be replaced with LCD toppers now.  You may have seen his post in rebuttal to Junkman1 where he posted pictures of all of these toppers under a different user name?

Bottom line, it really doesn't matter because he won't sell anything anyway except some useless switches, buttons, wires, etc.

You've done a great job Poppo!

:Dave

[poppo]

Ok, for anyone interested, here are some of the mods I made.

1. Removed all excess wiring (like USB cable, candle wiring)
2. Installed external mode and color switches.
3. combined chaser LEDs and back-light to only require one power supply.

Since most people would probably be mainly interested in #2, I will start there.
There are two normally open switches that control the mode and color selections. Of course these are located inside which makes it difficult to change especially since it resets to the default on power up. So, all that is needed is two normally open momentary switches. I got them at radio shack for under $3 (part number 275-1547 four pack, two black, two red).

The first picture shows where you need to solder a wire onto the existing switches. There is plenty of pad there to solder to, but you do need a small soldering iron and to be careful. I used a green wire for the mode and a red for the color. I could have used a smaller gauge wire, but this was handy. When the buttons are pressed, they simply apply a ground to the circuitry. Since there are other places to get a ground, I only needed to attach the two wires.

The second picture shows where I mounted the external switches. As you can see, the color goes to one and the mode goes to another. A common ground goes to both (more on that in the next posts)

You can click on any of the pictures to get a better view.

[poppo]

The first picture shows the two switches from the outside. I used black for the mode and red for the color.

The second picture shows where I tied all of the grounds together and installed the 12V regulator for the chaser LEDS. This heat sink already was used as a ground tie point, so I just modified it a bit. I moved the grounds to the other screw as show. So we have the green which was an existing ground that goes outside the topper and is now used for the negative 18-24V supply. As I noted earlier, I am using a regulated 18VDC which works well for my needs. The yellow is the existing ground coming from the control board. The two blacks are one coming from the negative side of the back-light and the other goes to the mode switches.

As you can see, I mounted the 12V regulator to the existing heat sink stud. This is convenient as it not only supplied the ground for the regulator, but also acts as a heat sink (although at the low current it won't get very warm). The output of the regulator (on the right) goes to the 12V input of the control board (existing red wire cut from cable). The input of the regulator has two wires. One is the positive 18-24 line coming from outside the topper and the other is the positive for the old version back light (see previous posts about that). So, the 18-24V comes in and goes directly to the back light and also goes to the 12V regulator supplying the control board.

[poppo]

So that is just about it. Everything works fine and one can still use the back light that came with it. As the first picture shows, there are two LED driver boards that are daisy chained together. The right side one has a plug that goes to the main harness (now removed) that has a black and a yellow wire. Contrary to any sort of standard color codes, yellow is ground and black is +24V. So when I pulled out the harness, I stuck another plug I had in my junk drawer that has a red(+) and black(-) wire on it, and plugged it in just so that I would remember what goes where if somewhere down the road if I decide to switch back to the existing back light. So all you need to do is wire these two wires like I mentioned in the previous post (negative to the rest of the grounds and positive to the input of the voltage regulator).

The last picture is just an overall picture of the whole thing.

Oh, and at 19VDC, max current is .49 amps (usually less depending on what pattern is running). That would go up a bit with 24V but any extra would be from the back lights.

Should I decide to use a PIC to select a specific and color on startup, I would simply tie into the lines I have for the external mode and color buttons, and just toggle them the appropriate number of times.

And of course if you want to use the candle, you can leave the existing harness in. The candle has a separate plug that plugs into the main harness, so one could also just extend the wires on the candle to keep it separate from anything else and/or splice the correct plug onto it for whatever game they are using.

[Tilt]

Thanks for the very informative writeup and pictures.      

[poppo]

Here is a picture of the unit lit up with my halfass homemade plexi (just a inkjet printed picture in front of the difuser to give an idea of what I am trying to accomplish. I still need to find or make some artwork that I like, and then decide how to do the plexi. Actually this "test" printout looks better in real life then in the picture. And it's hard to capture the true colors of the chaser lights with my cheap camera when they are in motion. Just wanted to show that it actually does work.

[777sizzler]

Hey Poppo,

Ignore Barry.  His post contributed absolutely nothing to this thread, no help, no insight, nothing, except his opinion, which no one cares about.  Instead, he used this thread to let everyone know that he as "aprox. 70 of these" (note "approx." abbreviated with only one "p") that he believes will go up in value, even though these toppers are starting to be replaced with LCD toppers now.  You may have seen his post in rebuttal to Junkman1 where he posted pictures of all of these toppers under a different user name?

Bottom line, it really doesn't matter because he won't sell anything anyway except some useless switches, buttons, wires, etc.

You've done a great job Poppo!

:Dave

I remember not to long ago a contol board was sent free of charge for one of these to help a member repair their topper.  Bottom line is this man,  I like these and the games.  No need in being hatefull.  I thought this whole thread was a good one.  I had given you and poppo k+ last night.  The refrences you made were for other posts.  As Joey says,  This is just a forum. 

[poppo]

Just another FYI for anyone who wants to power one of these using the mod I posted above. This universal laptop power supply works great and is cheap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-Tips-70W-UNIVERSAL-AC-DC-POWER-SUPPLY-LAPTOPS-ADAPTER-/140398091388

It has the following switch selectable voltage outputs
DC15V                 
DC16V                 
DC18.5V 
DC19.5V 
DC20V                 
DC22V               
DC24V

The back light (both versions) needs at least about 18V to start to light up. But you can use the switch to set it for whatever brightness you like. 20V works well for my setup. Since I have a 12V regulator for the chasers tapped off of it, it doesn't matter what it's set for.