Bally 1088-1 5 Coin

[Hoppel5343]

I recently picked up a 1088-1.  5 coin quarter machine and it works pretty good but have 2 mi or problems

1.  No e of the small lights work... Check the 4 fuses in the back and no frayed wires
2.  The step up unit works but does not reset... So once I play more than 1 coin it does not reset and I can keep pulling the handle and if I win it will not pay out...

Any ideas?   Thanks, Mark

[Hoppel5343]

More pics

[Amachanic]

Nice old Bally... When you say none of the small light are you refuring to just the top unit or the whole machine? I would first check the fuses, but use an ohm meter if you have one. Also check the condition of the holder. As for your other problem, these Bally EM machines contacts will tarnish and loose there connection if not player for a long period of time. Clean them with rubbing alcohol and a folded piece of paper between the contacts. Never sand or file them. Them check there operation with your ohm meter to make sure they are working correctly. Doing this will solve many issues with this type of machine. If after doing this and the problem still there then we will dig deeper.

Gary

[Hoppel5343]

Gary,

It is all the lights... Coin inserted, tilt, etc... The only lights that work are the 3 tube lights.  What is the holder?  Can you give me a lesson on how to measure ohms and where to get one.

Thanks,  Mark

[dave91169]

If your machine is anything like my Bally 809, it has three electrical systems - a 50-volt AC system that pretty much runs the entire machine, a 6-volt AC system that operates the lights, and a 120-volt AC system that operates the coin hopper and the fluorescent lights.  If there is something wrong in the 6-volt AC system, it is possible for the machine to function without the lights.

Ohmmeters are more commonly known as VOM's - volt-ohm-milliamp meters.  They are a "standard" tool in any type of electrical or electronics maintenance.  Inexpensive ones can be bought at Harbor Freight Tools, Home Depot, Lowes; more expensive ones can be bought from places like Newark Electronics or Allied Electronics.

Using an ohmmeter to check fuses, lamps, etc. for continuity is as simple as setting the meter to a low "ohms" scale and touching the two leads to the device being tested. 

The meter can be used on the "AC Volts" scale to test for the presence (or absence) of voltage.  Do not use the "ohms" scale to test for voltage; you will probably harm the meter.

There are books available on how to use a VOM- well worth learning how to use one.  I grew up with them, so they are not strangers to me. 

I don't think there are many, if any, switches in the 6-volt lighting circuit.  Therefore, your problem is probably with a fuse, or some ragged wiring.

Dave E

[OldReno]

Here's a short thread on checking for shorts.
You may or may not find it helpful.
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=17559.0

[dave91169]

OldReno, that's an excellent, well-written thread about finding shorts.  I, too, have used the "mechanic's method" of finding shorts results can sometimes be spectacular.  Best not try that method on anything with solid-state stuff in it!!
Dave E

[Hoppel5343]

Thanks for the help... When I get some time I will start digging I to the game... Next goal is to get the lights working.  Are there any other fuses besides the 4 near the back?

I really appreciate the help so far

Mark

[dave91169]

That's the only ones I know of. 
Dave E.

[Hoppel5343]

Here are the fuses... The 2 on the left have 32V 20A fuses and the 2 on the right have 32V and don't list the amp but the inside are smaller.  On the far right the bottom has all 3 wires going to one lead

Mark

[Hoppel5343]

It was the first fuse!  Looked good but wasn't ... Thanks everyone.  I want to replace all 4 fuses and get the right ones in there.. Looking at the pictures what fuses should I get.   I do t think the right ones are in there

Mark

[Amachanic]

By looking at the picture provided you need three 5amp fuses and one 15amp fuse. Don't worrie about the voltages listed. That's just what circuit they are on. You can pick them up at Radio Shack or any electronics store. They usually come in a pack of 4-5 fuses. Glad we could help, and now you understand why we say to check them with a meter..

Gary

[OldReno]

If you have any line lights or feature lights, then your 6V is good.
If you hear any coils working, your 50V is good.
If you have any lights at all (fluorescents, then your 120V is good.)
Here's a link: http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=17550.0

Glad you found the problem!!!  Often, if you don't have a meter handy, you can swap the fuses to see which one is the problem.
Sometimes I would put in a 'rigged' fuse into a machine (looked fine but didn't work), and if my students used either of the above methods to find it, they would pass that section of troubleshooting.

[Hoppel5343]

I'm getting some fuses tomorrow.. Does it matter what type as long as they are 5 a d 15 Amps

[dave91169]

They are standard 1/4" cartridge fuses.  Personally, I would be tempted to go to someplace like NAPA to get them; the ones at Radio Shack tend to be kinda cheap these days, although they will work OK.  I think the actual part number for these is an AGC-*, with the * being the amperage rating.  An AGC-* would be a standard fast-blow fuse; I don't think you need slow-blow fuses in this application.  Does sound like someone didn't pay attention to the ratings on the fuse labels.
Did a service call on a sound system many years ago; amplifier had a blown fuse.  Customer asked, "Why don't they put something in there to keep the fuse from blowing?".  Reply - "The fuse is there to keep something else, and more expensive, from blowing!!".  Customer's response - "Oh - - - - -".
OldReno, what percentage of your students didn't find the bad fuse?
Dave E

[OldReno]

I think the fuse ratings you need are at max 10 amps, or even better an 8 and a couple of 5's.  You can always put bigger fuses in if they blow....
@ Dave, I think about 10% didn't get it.

[Hoppel5343]

The first slot calls for a 15 Amp and 5 Amps on the other 3 according to the picture

[OldReno]

Well, if so that'll probably work, however, were it me, I'd power it up for about 20 minutes and then give it the smell test....
It appears as though someone added circuits to your two right hand fuses, so maybe it needs a 15 amper there.
Glad you got it working.

[Hoppel5343]

Now I am just down to the multiplier not resetting and I need a new win counter

[OldReno]

If you're talking about your odds disc, make sure it is oiled.  Work the plungers on the solenoids and make sure everything moves clean.
There should be a leaf switch on the odds unit that is normally open which closes on 1st step of the odds disc.  that is, the second coin in steps the odds 1 step.  This switch should be NO when it's closed, and then goes to Closed when it steps.  This should prompt the odds disc to reset on coin in next game.
Make sure the little spidery-guy is free to move and reset.
Drop down your top unit, and push on those coil-stacks to see if they do anything. Press on the paddle above the coil to simulate game.
Of course look for broken wires and bad solders.
Sometimes you can take apart those mechanical counters and fix them. 

[Hoppel5343]

It does step up to five coins and pays right if I reset each time.. It just doesn't reset by itself.  I push the plunger until it is back to one coin.  Anything after one coin it plays and then acts like a coin has been inserted and you can keep playing but it won't pay out unless I reset it

[Hoppel5343]

It does seem a little sticky... How do I oil,  where, and what type of oil

[OldReno]

I've used mineral oil on the buttons, and probably a light cooking oil should work, or light motor oil.
You can probably dribble a couple of drops onto the shaft, too.
To test your reset solenoid, get a jumper, and clip one end onto a solid yellow wire.  Then, touch the other end to the NON-ORANGE wire on your reset solenoid.  If it resets, your solenoid is good. If it works, then trace back the non-orange wire and find the switch that controls it.

[Hoppel5343]

Sorry.. Not very tech wavy.... Where is the jumper and solonoid

Mark

[OldReno]

The solenoids are those 2 coils with the plungers in them.  Push on the plunger and you should see the action they produce.  Each solenoid has 2 wires, one is orange and the other some other color.  The orange is your 50V hot.  By jumpering from a plain yellow wire (your feed for 50V), you complete the circuit and you should see your solenoid fire and move its linkages.
Jump your step up solenoid, and each time you touch the jumper to the wire, it should move.  After you step it up, jumper to your reset solenoid and you should see the odds disc reset.  By doing it this way you are simulating how the machine does it.
You can probably jumper to the solid yellow wire where it attaches to your lights in the top unit light board, for the lights that are always on.