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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #25 on: August 28, 2009, 06:12:02 PM »

No Resale!!!??? hissy fit
No!...
How am I gonna get my money back from purchasing
all those online Soviet Russian wives I was all infatuated and obsessed with , Huh? HUH??????.... rotflmao




(just kidding... Tongue Out)
« Last Edit: August 28, 2009, 06:18:55 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
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« Reply #26 on: August 28, 2009, 08:29:54 PM »

No Resale!!!??? hissy fit
No!...
How am I gonna get my money back from purchasing
all those online Soviet Russian wives I was all infatuated and obsessed with , Huh? HUH??????.... rotflmao


(just kidding... Tongue Out)

I wasn't going to reply to Jay's comment, but since you mention it.. of course there is resale. It's called divorce. It's just that she gets all of the profits, and you get the depreciation.  Homer Crawl S.O.B. advisory    lightning bolt slap     lightning bolt slap   
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« Reply #27 on: August 28, 2009, 10:18:46 PM »


I wasn't going to reply to Jay's comment, but since you mention it.. of course there is resale. It's called divorce. It's just that she gets all of the profits, and you get the depreciation.  Homer Crawl S.O.B. advisory    lightning bolt slap     lightning bolt slap   

Ya, but was it worth all the years of.....  Spank CatDance Hippo Dance Spank Jeannie turkey
You may have come out a head of the game.  frying pan rotflmao
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« Reply #28 on: August 30, 2009, 06:22:48 AM »

Hi guys,

Well, despite all the "don't do it" posts, I made a trip, bought it and brought it home.  It is one squeaky clean machine and for a bit less than 2 bills, I couldn't pass it up.  I'll update the photos with it sitting in my room.  I ran a big time clean up on it.  What I don't understand is that the previous owner left some sticky tape on the chrome, the glass and reels were dirty, but after I put my OCD touch on it, it's looks sweet.  He didn't even have the volume turned on...only reel noise!  

Anyway, I cleaned the reels and noticed that the short edge of the reels, not the long edge the fits in the baskets, appear to bow out a bit.  I thought about taping them but wanted to get your opinions on what to do.  The reels are a bit noisy, although not offensive by any means...would taping those down help?  Does anyone have a good taping diagram, thread, tutorial?

Also, as it was unplugged for hours on the way home, it initially came up with a code of 61 and then to 12 after holding the self test.  After sitting plugged in for a while it finally cleared itself and has been running great.  Board battery was removed and a battery pack of 3 double A's was soldered onto the board where the old board battery used to sit.  Am I able to turn the power off every night or will this battery pack drain and give the same error?  Is this how the original board battery worked as well?

Thanks everyone!

Thanks everyone.
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« Reply #29 on: August 30, 2009, 01:24:05 PM »

Pics of the inside of the cabinet would be a good help to let us know if we are dealing with a S or S+
The errors so far it sounds like an early model S+ without a bill validator although the strange config of the reel glass still leaves the jury out until we get a pic.
There might also be a plate next to the pull arm.

I will defer you to RICKS FAQ on the top of the home page. He has well documented the process in which to do a game change. 61 is the first error you get after a game change. I suspect the bouncy ride home made the board slip a bit and that is what caused the 61. As opposed to the machine being off.

The boards come stock with a 3.6v lithium battery soldered on. These die about every 6-8 years and sometimes leak. You previous owner was smart to change this out to a battery holder but you should not need to change these too often. You will get an error 12 (battery) low until then don't worry about it. 
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« Reply #30 on: August 30, 2009, 03:53:33 PM »

Pics of the inside of the cabinet would be a good help to let us know if we are dealing with a S or S+
The errors so far it sounds like an early model S+ without a bill validator although the strange config of the reel glass still leaves the jury out until we get a pic.
There might also be a plate next to the pull arm.

I will defer you to RICKS FAQ on the top of the home page. He has well documented the process in which to do a game change. 61 is the first error you get after a game change. I suspect the bouncy ride home made the board slip a bit and that is what caused the 61. As opposed to the machine being off.

The boards come stock with a 3.6v lithium battery soldered on. These die about every 6-8 years and sometimes leak. You previous owner was smart to change this out to a battery holder but you should not need to change these too often. You will get an error 12 (battery) low until then don't worry about it. 

Thanks jay, I'll put some pictures up tonight.  So is it ok then to turn the machine off when it's not in use?  I have it plugged into a surge protector.  Is it ok to power off at the surge protector, or is it better to power off using the toggle switch inside of the machine?

I guess I'm concerned that if I leave the machine off now for any long period of time, it's going to come back to a 61 or 12.  Like I said, I put fresh batteries in the pack just as a troubleshooting step, and we are back to normal...although I'm not sure how that happend.  Wink  When the machine is powered off, the batteries on the board are what keep the memory in tact right? 
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« Reply #31 on: August 30, 2009, 06:35:52 PM »

If you power off, the battery will slowly drain to maintain the data stored in cmos intact.  Even if the machine is plugged into an outlet, it will still drain battery, the S+ does not have a stand-by mode like modern electronics, in this case the on/off switch is really an on/off switch.  The only way to keep the battery from draining is to have it on all the time.  But since you have a batter holder, getting some of those high energy lithium batteries should be able to keep it there for quite a while.
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« Reply #32 on: August 30, 2009, 11:19:25 PM »

My machines are off 2/3rds of the time.... sometimes for weeks at a time. I have my whole basement 4 slots, pinball, 8 neons etc .... all on X10 control.
THere are about 5 circuits in my basement but a single press of a button (A1-ON) and snap-crack the basement toys come to life. The slots are on power surge power bars and I use 2 500w x10 modules (one on each power bar) to control those.

When I moved from Pittsburgh PA to Calgary AB I left on Nov 27th, 2007  - since my basement was not built out at the time, It took me until Oct -2008 before I was in a position to get things running again. In shipping my units I didn't want any grief at the border. Canada is non specific on slot ownership other than you are not allowed to use them for gambling, however PA has a 1940 or earlier law so I had taken the boards, hoppers and DBV heads out just so I could claim they were non functional parts machines. When I put all back together I didn't even get a error 61 they just popped up and started working.

I have since had to replace one battery (error 12) but who knows how old that board really is - I had it for 5+ years and the battery looked orginal.

 
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« Reply #33 on: August 31, 2009, 12:29:01 AM »

My S+ machines are off 99% of the time, since I only turn them on to play them (that still works out to an average of about 14½ minutes per day per machine, or 1hr 41min per week per machine. No, I won't say how many hours per week that comes out to in total.. stir the pot / get cooking frying pan)

I have never changed a battery on an S+. They all appear to be original, which means that they are, on average, about 15 years old.
Now, Bally ProSlots, on the other hand.. no muted  Spank  I have a stack of batteries in my freezer, just for them. Tongue Out
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« Reply #34 on: August 31, 2009, 01:07:39 AM »

So, let me see if I understand correctly...

When my 3 AA battery pack starts to get low, will I start seeing 12 errors, or will I start getting 12 errors when the AA's are completely dead?  I guess what I'm wondering is if they start to get low and I start seeing the 12 code, can I hurry and remove the old batteries and replace with fresh batteries and keep everything in tact and not screw up the memory? 
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« Reply #35 on: August 31, 2009, 01:33:51 AM »

Once you got a 12 your batteries are low, too low to use in anything else and basically your cmos is lost (game settings etc).
If you yank your batteries tomorrow and replace with fresh, your cmos is lost (game settings etc).
Your dammed if you do and dammed if you don't. On a pin ball machine you can change batteries while the machine is on to preserve settings.
No such luck here.

The previous owner made your battery change convienient - better than soldering to the board but the results are the same.

You are not likely to run into trouble anytime soon. I would recommend that as you begin to acquire other game kits and misc addons for your slot that you pick up a Clear chip.

A set chip is used to reactivate a bill validator - since you don't have one of those this is not a concern, however after your battery goes dead its common that you get a 61 error that just wont go away. A clear reformats the cmos and cleans this up. Like I said its not likely to happen tomorrow or the next day but you will eventually want to get one. When my battery went dead I did not need to do anything other than clear the 61 but I got lucky.

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« Reply #36 on: August 31, 2009, 01:52:17 AM »

A battery change can be done while using a temporary power source, such as a battery pack alligator clipped to the wires. This would hold the settings.

Thanks,
Wayne
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« Reply #37 on: August 31, 2009, 02:06:47 AM »

Not sure how I managed to get mine to work then...4 hours in the truck without power, I even took the 3 AA's out of the pack and replaced with other batteries.  I was running into problems over and over for about an hour trying everything I could, and then...it finally took...reels turned and presto, it was ready!  Whew.

Anyway, here are some photos.  Can I even get a clear chip or other games for this machine...it is an 88 model.


* Jackpot_Jungle_1.jpg (449.54 KB, 1424x1072 - viewed 475 times.)

* Jackpot_Jungle_2.jpg (422.55 KB, 1072x1424 - viewed 642 times.)
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« Reply #38 on: August 31, 2009, 02:07:44 AM »

Couple more of the inside and door...



* Jackpot_Jungle_Door.jpg (414.69 KB, 1424x1072 - viewed 365 times.)

* Jackpot_Jungle_Inside.jpg (433.8 KB, 1424x1072 - viewed 977 times.)
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« Reply #39 on: August 31, 2009, 04:23:50 AM »

I found this thread:  http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=148.0

That's exactly how my battery solution was modified.  Now I'm wondering if that's how I got lucky with my battery swap and avoided a clear memory?  If the machine is powered up, and I take out the batteries quickly and replace with fresh ones, could this avoid memory corruption?  The pinball guys recommend this for those machines...wasn't sure if it's recommended for a slot with my type of battery mod.
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« Reply #40 on: August 31, 2009, 10:07:07 AM »

Did you go into Ricks FAQ yet ? the section on game change will show you how to clear the 61.

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« Reply #41 on: August 31, 2009, 07:40:02 PM »

For what it's worth, too, I just did a battery change on my S+ a couple of weeks ago (due to an error 12) and I didn't even lose any settings -- my bill validator was working, and I even still had credits on the machine after the battery change!
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« Reply #42 on: September 09, 2009, 04:10:11 AM »

For what it's worth, too, I just did a battery change on my S+ a couple of weeks ago (due to an error 12) and I didn't even lose any settings -- my bill validator was working, and I even still had credits on the machine after the battery change!

knagl, did you do your battery change with the power on?
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« Reply #43 on: September 09, 2009, 11:35:02 AM »

I'd imagine it would be okay to hook up the battery
with a parallel battery attached to the dying battery.
You'd need to make a remote battery pack with alligator clips to do it though.
The remote pack keeps the ram's memory intact
as you physically change out the dying/dead battery for a new one.
However, all you're really saving is accounting stuff...
it's not that important for home use.
It's a lot safer to remove the dead battery
and replace it with a new one just in case you make a mistake
and hook up the remote with  a series hookup.
If that happens, you'll fry  Burning Resistor some components for sure... bawling
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« Reply #44 on: September 09, 2009, 03:00:52 PM »

Your machine is a S machine.  you are limited to most of the earlier games. Double diamond, red white blue, etc.  no nudge games  or anything fancy.  you don;t  have a sp chip either only a game chip, that board uses the same battery as the S+  ,a 1/2 AA 3.6 volt lith.  replace with power off .  board is removed by taking out the screw at the top and pulling the board forward, remove the three plugs and you can remove the board.  the blue pot at the bottom right near the plug is the volume adj.

Jim
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« Reply #45 on: September 09, 2009, 03:36:49 PM »

Jim makes a good point regarding the chips. The S uses RS chips for game themes, not SS, so if you do look for a replacement kit, you'll need to find the older RS chip rather than the "standard" S+ SS reel chip that most sellers offer.
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« Reply #46 on: September 09, 2009, 06:55:16 PM »

knagl, did you do your battery change with the power on?

I'd love to see how you'd do that.   Tongue Out

No, with the power off I removed the board, brought it to a friends shop, we replaced the battery there, and then I drove the board back home and re-installed it.
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« Reply #47 on: September 09, 2009, 08:11:14 PM »

knagl, did you do your battery change with the power on?

I'd love to see how you'd do that.   Tongue Out

No, with the power off I removed the board, brought it to a friends shop, we replaced the battery there, and then I drove the board back home and re-installed it.

Oh true.  If it was a standard battery soldering job, I can see how that would be tricky.  In my case however, I just replace the AA batteries and don't even have to remove the board.
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« Reply #48 on: September 09, 2009, 09:17:05 PM »

I don't think this is going to be any benefit to you at all.
When my battery died I got a error 12. The machine was on etc.
It would be my hypothesis that when you pull the AA's you will get an error 12 state just the same as the battery going dead on a live game.

So you will be in the same pool regardless....if you do it with the power on, off, in or out.

When I changed my battery - shortly (a couple of days) after getting a 12 I did not need to run a clear or any other chip through it just worked cleanly with no errors not even a 61.
The large caps on the board will hold memory for a while. This involved soldring in a new battery.
Knagl basically proved the same thing except that it sounds like his board was out hours not min.

These boards were NOT designed for a live swap and I would be somewhat concerned that you have the potential to do more damage than just the potential of getting a stickey 61.
Dealing with a battery change like everyone else.




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