New Life Games Tech Forums

 Thought I would pass this along from the old site,  this is a CRT to LCD conversion on a PE+ Poker Game. The company who did this was out of the U.S., here is the info and photo's  and exact message they posted, thought this was very cool! : ( via slotace)

GENIUSSLOT
Guest

   THE NEW POKER MACHINE
« on: January 25, 2008, 03:02:09 PM » 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
HI TO ALL
I really appreciatte the comments about this, about the interface we have a little business in colombia we are development devices for better working equipment and the interface are one of them, we have another things like hopper emulator that pay like a hopper whitout physical hopper in machine the interface vga are commercial and the nearly cost is  90 dollars (shipment are not included) we can sell or trade whit someone if are interested, this interface are tested too in cherry master games and aristocrat games, now we are working in version 2.0 for better resolution, the only purpose that we have is made easy the work of slot techs in different machines, at soon that is posible we put the link for our web page where do you see a complet list for devices that we are development, like a lcd counters for replace the mechanical counters in machines and autoreset tilt igt error codes, the interfce are avalaible for anyone that needs, this idea borns because in our country the parts for slot machines are very expensive and sometimes are hard to get, we want offer real solutions for troubles whit less cost for people one more time very thanks for this commnets this say to us that we are keeping our ideas for better service for slot machines.


THANKS FOR READ


GENIUSSLOT

 

hola viejo espero este bien estoy interesado en la interface para el lcd   mi correo  escalibur1703@hotmail.com y estoy en colombia

Translation any one ??? :)

I think...I may be wrong...he's interested in the LCD conversion.
He gave his email addy and lives in columbia?

Your wish is my command:  :93-


PS: For Future Reference, SPANISH to ENGLISH translation available at http://www.spanishdict.com/

Hope this helps!,

TK

Another site one can use for translations is  http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate_txt  which offers several European language choices.
Neither one of these sites is perfect but the one can usually get the gist of the post.

On the other site one of the fellows submitted a post where he used a single chip hex inverter, showed how to use it on a bread board.
he simply put it inline to the back of the monitor It looked rather simple and easy to make.

What is their contact info I would like to know what the cost is for the PE+ LCD kits.
Thank you in advanced
Xaiver

I found this and I would give them a call...
they might be able to help you...
Look on page 17 and 18 of their website pages.
-mark

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/content/ProductData/Catalog52/section07.pdf (http://www.mcmelectronics.com/content/ProductData/Catalog52/section07.pdf)

Would you have his contact info for that in line bread board ?
Thanks in advanced
Xaiver

Jay seems to know more about that thread than I do.
I googled around and found a website called http://www.makeyourownchip.com/products.html
This came up on hex convertors...
I thought it was probably the reason why my machine never hits the Jackpot... :72-

QUOTE
[Random Number Generator - Single chip package. Requires minimal external circuitry!! Build it on a breadboard for quick projects or integrate it into a finished design! Uses an implementation of the Rule 30 cellular automaton to generate extremely long sequences of pseudo random numbers (won't repeat in the life of this universe). Ideal for applications needing a source of randomness such as, probability games, AI, white noise, mathematics, etc... Keep in mind that the Microsoft Windows's built in random number generator is seriously flawed. As a programmer and game developer, I have run into strange "patterns" time and time again with their generator. If you need something better, you need this.
$15.00]
END QUOTE

Did anyone every get more info on or purchase the CRT to LCD converter board? I'm still looking for a way to do this.

Thanks!

You and me both.

No, the original poster never returned to the site and we don't have any contact information for him.  I'm in the process of trying to convert a PE+ to use an LCD VGA monitor -- I'm using one of the CGA to VGA converters that can be found on eBay -- we've been making progress, but I've been sidetracked with other projects of late and haven't had a chance to work on it in a while.  I'll post here if we're ever successful.

Hello All

Ceronix now has a direct replacement LCD that will work on the PE+. Have not done a PE+ yet but was very happy with their replacement LCD for WMS bluebird.

http://www.happ.com/monitors/491132600.htm (http://www.happ.com/monitors/491132600.htm)

You can also get it directly from Ceronix.

The signal is CGA and also some timing signals are inverted (this is what the mod fixes) - Once you have the correct CGA signal you could use the CGA to VGA convertor.

Ian

Ian-

Do you know anything more about the timing signals that are inverted?  I'm just a home user, and $500 for the Ceronix replacement is simply too much for my budget (I have two machines I'd like to convert).  I guess what I'm asking is, how would I get the "correct" CGA signal?  Thanks in advance!

Hi Knagl

I am not to sure on the specifics but I remember a post on the old site where somebody changed or piggybacked a chip on the main board. I will try and get you more information from a guy that repairs monitors here in SA.

I see that Happ sells CGA to VGA converters for around $70 - How much were the ones on EBAY ?
Since you dont need a touchscreen just about any LCD will work as long as you are prepared to make some kind of bracket for it

Ps - I think Geniusslot is now ERtech -  The English products page on his site does not sem to work but you can check this http://www.freewebs.com/ertech-gaming/productos.htm

Ian

Spectacular!  :3-  Thank you in advance!



I bought the GBS-8220 -- it costs around $50.

(http://i47.tinypic.com/2qvdv7b.jpg)

The $80 one from Happ is an earlier model of that converter board.  Essentially the same thing, though.  According to jammaboards.com, the model that Happ is selling has been discontinued and has been replaced by the GBS-8220 that I bought.



Yep.  I snagged a small LCD VGA monitor on eBay for a very low price -- I'll just have to figure out how to mount it in my machine once we get it working.



That's great!  I'm sure that's him -- the picture on the website of the machine is the same picture posted at the top of this thread, right down to the order of playing cards on the screen!  At least now there's a way to contact him (through that site) -- I wouldn't be opposed to paying him for a plug-and-play board if I can't get my CGA to VGA converter working with my PE+.  Thanks so much for posting that link, and K+ to you.  Please let me/us know if you hear anything from your friend that repairs monitors.   :131-

The CGA to VGA is good but it doesn't do the inverseing of signals.

Is that needed for the PE+, Jay?

Yes.

Thats the crux of the problem. You can put a multi-sync LCD in place but your colors will all be inverted.

I was thinking that if we could modify the CapChips we could invert in software.

Hello

I´am a geniusslot friend, to this time he retired to the company and work in his own projects under sas and progressive systems, however he told me that the vga converter is still avalaible and the price is low and this board works whit cherry master and aristocrat whit 15 khz monitors too, if somebody wants a further details contact the company under ertechg@hotmail.com and ask for Mr Elkin Tabares the phone number is 57(4)2346413. He can send all information about this units.

Best Regards

Next G

 :244- :244- :244-

Thank you for the information!  I will send an e-mail as I'd be interested in buying two of those units if the price is low.

Kevin,

Have you just volunteered to spearhead a NLG Group Buy??? I gave you K+ for exposing yourself like that!  :244- :244- :244- :208- :208- :208-

I think we are trying to do the same thing, so if you get the information let us know. I may wan't to piggyback on your order for two or more depending, and I bet Jay might want to as well?? Maybe we can get better pricing in numbers! We would just have to know from the guy if he has done it successfully before first?

Mark :95-

Certainly I would be in however I think we would want to test 1 unit before we commit to buying a bunch.

I agree.  I'm not confident the colors are being translated accurately (maybe bad screenshots) and would like to see one running to be confident.

I just sent an e-mail to the address listed a few posts ago, asking about cost and shipping to the US.  I'll let everyone know what I find out.  If the price is reasonable, I'm willing to buy one (actually two, since I have two machines) to be the guinea pig for the devices, and Stolistic will be able to check it out to confirm if the colors are right.

I know for a fact that this is used in Columbia Casinos. I have a friend here in the states that was introduced to this conversion.
Parts are very scarce down there and sometimes you have to do what you have to do to get machines up and running. This originated as a very crude hack. It was double sided taped to the top of the MPU with the hole cut into the front of the card cage for the video adapter to plug into. Wires were soldered onto legs of the chips and it was not a pretty install. It is currently being worked on here in the states and should be made available within 6 months.

My posting is referencing the origination of this modification. I am in no way saying that is what is being offered in the post above. However a solution to this will be made available here in the US soon.

Neonkiss

Any news on this product ?

Knagl

According to the guy that I am using now for repairs all the signals (Colour and Synch) are inverted from standard CGA.

Ian

Indeed, I'm curious about this, too.  I'm still very interested in a couple of them for my PE+ bartops.


As an update of sorts, I never received a reply to my e-mail sent to the guy that next_gaming posted about.

Hi Guys

Was prowsing Happs website and came across this.

http://www.happ.com/monitors/49260310.htm (http://www.happ.com/monitors/49260310.htm).
They clam it can support CGA and can be programmed for various machines. $300 for the 15".
Will send them a mail to find out if it ill work on PE+.

Ian

Interesting find, Ian.  Please let us know what you find out.   :3-

going by memory --plus i came into this thread without reading it lol

if your trying to convert a ceronix cga monitor to lcd vga --youmay run into a problem doing it yourself .

my memory was ceronix cga monitors ran there video outputs backwards !!

so a standard converter will not do the trick --what jogged my memory is the mention of the converter working on cherry masters monitors  etc
yes thats true they work on them . but memory tells me ceronix ran a backwards signal ?? i need to check my notes

i could be all wet on this but i dont think so . its only on ceronix conversions ..

Hello Rocket

According to the Guy that repairs our monitors here the PE+ signal has both the colours and Synch inverted from standard CGA. However Happ claims they can re program the monitor.I assume such things can be taken care of within the panels processing circuitry. Anyway will see if I can get some info from them. I have seen a LCD advertised previously that can handle CGA but t was something ridiculous like $800. I have no previous experience with this make looks like its Happ's in house brand.

Ian

from my notes from long ago

the PE ---CERONIX MONITOR USED --would have to be reconfigured to work with a converter box of a CERONIX BASED--configuration for inverted video.
 
so my guess is HAAP ??there supplier has taken the time re-wire a board or add on part to make the LCD work in a IGT -PE with CERONIX MONITOR

from my notes in red print

The output of the PE+ logic for red green and blue is inverted. So, the Ceronix monitor has jumpers to use inverted video.  Other than an old Nintendo monitor (like in Donkey Kong), there are no other monitors that accept inverted video.

I wonder...Could this inverted logic signal be solved by
just swapping the connector pins between red and blue? :103-
Or would that be too simple?  :96-

I just got on the PE+ LCD conversion wannabe bandwagon
with a recent acquiring of a 98% "Four-Of-A-Kind Bonus Poker" machine.
I love it!!! :89-

Okay....Uh...Pictures coming soon to a theater near you...

 :211- :200- :208-

 :95-

If the only monitors that accept this inverted signal are Donkey Kong and PE+, why on earth did IGT go down that route? Surely they weren't going to try and take on Nintendo!!  :200-

give  me a few hrs i will make the call to find the answer ??

but modfied guess before the IGT source confirms ?/

why does IGT do what they do on many things ???

to be different

they constatly buy out perfect game plans and put them on a shelf so nobody uses them

they probably had a deal with CERONIX TO BUY 5 MILLION CRT MONITORS IS MY GUESS

why do certain cmpany's only make proprietary parts ??  so you have to buy from IGT --BALLY --WILLIAMS -ETC ETC

THE LIST GOES ON AND ON . even the topic of hydralic seals the other day .. for instance  GREESEN HYDRAULIC VAVLES FOR A LIFT BUCKET ON A OLD FARM TRACTOR IS 29.99
SAME MODEL VALVE -SIGHTLY ALTERED SO THREADS ARE ON DIFF SIDE 
IF ITS FOR JOHN DEERE IT $299.99 AND ONLY CA BE PURCHASED AT JOHN DEERE

Yes, that makes perfect sense. Seems weird that they appear to only have done it on PE+, perhaps Ceronix pulled a fast one on IGT and said, now you bought the 5mill we are not doing any more and you'll have to find another way to fix them!

well this was my IGT ANSWER!below dotted line ..
almost a same guess I made ------if it works and has been a proven worker then 25 yrs later---- why  mess with it
??

=========================================================================

I am not really sure why they went that route.  We asked ourselves the same thing in the Video Game industry with Nintendo.  They were the ONLY manufacturer that used inverted video.  Their original monitors (Sanyo monitor chassis) were Inverted in only.  Later, the same Sanyo monitor came with a small inverter board attached to invert it back to true video, or plug it into a spare connector and it was inverted video. This allowed the monitor to be used by Atari in some of their games which were not inverted.
 
I guess these foreign markets just won't let 25 year old gaming equipment die - like in the old days of video, all you need is a working coin mech to make money!!!!
 
 

most likely the case the contract was with IGT so some procedes of any CERONIX GAMING MONITOR"'REAIR" HIT IGT STILL ?
LIKE THEY NEED A BUCK LOL

I have a few 19" Vision Pro LCD monitors that were taken
out of service from our security surveillance room.
They were similar to the ones Happs is selling for like $299 each plus their mystery shipping.
These monitors were not bad really -
they've just upgraded to larger 22" Vision Pro LCD monitors with 3M USB CTS (touchscreens) at work.

In the morning I will remove the back covers and see if there are any jumpers
on the monitor boards that may invert the incoming processing signals from PE+.
I also have a manual for them laying around somewhere but I think Happs has it up on their website.
I don't think these were designed for PE's or PE+'s though.
First of all, they're too big...  :96-

Hello SB

It would most probably be using the same DAC controller for both models so it would be interesting to see what the image looks like with inverted signals.
The manual says the synchs can be positive or negative so this wont be an issue - if you can get a picture at least its one step closer to a working sollution.

Ian

Got to work this morning and all the old monitors were donated to a local school....arghh!! :37-
I was left with a couple of Makvision 19" monitors that only have a voltage jumper
on the CGA 2 VGA inverter Wei-Ya boards on the back of them.
This jumper switches between 3.5v/12v/5v only.

I'm stuck with some china-made converter / inverter board that
I'm going to sacrifice for the good of mankind...  :79-  lol

The 1st step for me is determine which pins or wires are coming
out off the motherboard at the J9 7-pin connector that has 6 wires
(( one housing socket ( the 7th) intentionally not used ))
on the MPU harness going to the VGA monitor on the PE+.

There are 2 wires (Black & white twisted) that are putting out 120Vac and
a green one that is bolted to the power supply so I've identified those 3 so far...

The J9 connector has these 6 wires in a 7 socket housing.
I've found out through the schematics posted below what these may be:
1]Brown = ?  Vertical Sync
2]White = ?   Horizontal Sync
3]Red = ?  Red...lol
4]Blue =?  Blue...duh!
5]Green =?  Green (Gee...who whudda thunk it?)
6]Black = ?  Video Ground
7]Not Used = okay...lol

Once I know these, then I'll have a better idea which wires are for
the "R", "G", "B", "GND", and "S" pins
on the CGA-2-VGA converter board I have sitting in front me.

Problem is - I have one extra wire.... :25-
Below is the highlighted area where I want to connect my PE+ harness to.
Click on photo to enlarge>>>

not on your CERONIX crt's conversion your trying ..

 but just reg CRT -To-- LCD --I also depending on converter board model ??
and CRT of various makers --ended up wth a extra >>WHITE WIRE ON A FEW

others a extra BLACK WIRE ..

ITS EXTRA STUFF HIDE IT UNDER THE RUG .. :72- :72- :72- :72-

So I can step on it and get a shock? I don't think so! ... :72-

I'm no dummy - I did that before! lol

Oh by the way, converter model? No idea...I bought it from china last summer.

Okay...I found this schematic of the PE+ motherboard for the J9 plug going to the CRT monitor.

Mark,
silly question -but what are you trying to do ??

the thing I discussed before ON THIS THREAD with TZTECH ??  about converting  the  CERONIX CRT MONITOR -----to A LCD DISPLAY ?? -
with the use of one of the HONG KONG SPECIALS --SIGNAL CONVERTER???


when I did confrm from my notes --that the CERONIX CRT used in IGT PE + does have a "INVERTED VIDEO " 

thats what I am getting from your attempts here on your post ..

if you get any picture after you do your connections etc

please post some pictures ?? even if its distorted but viewable ??   :244- :244- :244-

I like pictures .. just not RAIN & ELECTRICTY that I have right now lol

Yep...I'm working on it! lol

http://www.youtube.com/v/25qkE6ZcBHc?fs=1&hl=en_US (http://www.youtube.com/v/25qkE6ZcBHc?fs=1&hl=en_US)

ok just checking !!

be safe and check all the wires for any current left in them ... :97- :97- :97- :97- :97- :97- :97-

Hi Guys

Yes we have established that the color signals are inverted - This can be fixed there was a mod for this on the old site and I have seen a small PCB on some modified made in china CGA monitors I have seen in the field on PE+ machines. What I would like to know is if the horizontal and vertical synchs will be correctly decoded by this board. Like Rocket I am also curious to see what the inverted colour image looks like.

SB - The problem I see on your pinout for the converter board is that it has only one synch signal input. The PE+ has seperate vertical and horizontal synch outputs.
If you have a look at the converter HAPP sells you will see there are options for both modes of operation - http://www.happ.com/monitors/49272700.htm

There are plenty on Ebay that look similar to yours but no manuals for dowload - If you did get a manual have a look if it supports dual synch.

Ian

Mark-

You have a GBS-8220.  From earlier in the thread, I bought the same thing (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=382.msg58000#msg58000).

The PE+ uses separate horizontal and vertical sync.  The GBS-8220 needs composite sync (as best as I was able to figure out).  I started to look into how to convert H+V to Composite, and that's about as far as I got when I was trying to make mine work.

I did eventually find a decent .pdf manual for the GBS-8220 (every other "manual" out there was only one or two pages).  I'll dig it up and get it to you as soon as I can find it -- it really helped to identify what each pin on the GBS-8220 was for, and what types of inputs are accepted where on the card.

Learn from one mistake I made with the thing.  It requires really beefy power -- 5 volts, 2 amps, if memory serves correctly.  Most wall wart transformers don't put out enough amperage -- it may appear to work, but under load (with a good video signal), it will flake out on you.  Once I figured that out, when I was testing, I wound up using a Mikohn power supply as it pumps out the right voltage with plenty of amperage to go with it.


I originally tried the smaller 8-pin connector (labeled RGBS) and didn't get far -- again, I need to find the manual, but I think that only those big pins (the ones you highlighted) are designed to accept CGA.  (Edit: It looks like from the black and white image below that you can give CGA to the 8-pin -- I also found the following:

Red Video to Red Wire/P11 (R)
Green Video to Green Wire/P11 (G)
Blue Video to Blue Wire/P11 (B)
H. Sync to Gray Wire/P11 (S)
V. Sync to Yellow Wire/P11 (VS)
Ground Ref to Black Wire/P11 (GND)
Connect the 8-pin (6 wires) RGB cable to P11 on the GBS-8220 converter PCB. )


(http://i51.tinypic.com/esmdjt.jpg)



You might be interested in the thread I started on a different site -- it didn't get me too far, but provides a little information.  I remember (from reading that thread) that the .pdf documentation does list the "S" on the 8-pin connector as shield, not sync, so don't use the 8-pin connector (you weren't planning to anyway):

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=113853 (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=113853)  (There are two pages of information there -- look for the little "page 2" navigation in the lower right corner of the last post.)


(http://i54.tinypic.com/m94vau.png)
(Click to enlarge and clear up the muddy text.) (http://i54.tinypic.com/m94vau.png)



More reading: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=98692.0

I'm getting somewhere!  :136-I'm getting somewhere with this!!! lololo :72- :200-

http://www.youtube.com/v/7AsEvNSCpj4?fs=1&hl=en_US (http://www.youtube.com/v/7AsEvNSCpj4?fs=1&hl=en_US)

Kevin

Nice to hear from somebody that has tried to get these working. Further checking on the various EBAY links led me to this site - http://www.jammaboards.com/store/cga/ega/yuv-to-vga-converter-pcb-gbs-8220/prod_291.html.
There are links on that page to the manual in PDF as well as a setup instruction including how to connect Seperate Synchs

Going back in this thread to the post Kevin is referring to it would seem this model is an upgrade to the one that Happ sells at $60 cheaper and its shipped from the US

SB - You have all the info now- We want pictures  :96-

Edit - Ok you beat me to it and went one better - Video. The colours are not right as expected and the siganl loss is I suspect is due to the Synch issue but its looking promising - Great Work
Ian

Arghhhhh!!!  :37- The Sync sucks  :50- :50- :50- on this sucking thing!!!  :8-    :208- :97-
The picture is jumping around like Mexican beans.
It doesn't know left from right or up and down...blah!!!!! :52- :60-
I need a dual-sync composite composer compacter! Craps!

Think I'll save this board for an old cherry master board.
I give up! It's Friday! I'm going home!
I'll get back on it another blue moon!
http://www.youtube.com/v/nPY5-wlayAc?fs=1&hl=en_US (http://www.youtube.com/v/nPY5-wlayAc?fs=1&hl=en_US)

Come on SB - You can do it  :96-

P10 is RGBHV and Kevins info suggests that that connector is CGA so pretty sure that will do the trick

Looking at the schemtic for the colour outputs - The only part after the Colour Attribute Prom (CAP) is a 74Hc574. This is a Octal D type Flip Flop with non inverting outputs.
If you replace this with a 74HV534 which is the same thing but with inverting outputs the colour problem should be sorted (Thats my theory anyway - Going through my old digital electronics handbook I am shocked at how little I remember of this stuff).

Ian

It's Friday! You're just not going to let get outta here are ya?  :96-  :30-

Just kidding...I'll look at lot more into this next week. :89-
It looks like a fun project and thank you so much for looking into the schematics for us TZ!
You're a lot more technical than I am on this stuff which I love learning everyday!
I sure wish I would have taken some electronics classes in school instead of chasing women...lol
nah! I take that back....!!!  :97-

Knagl's all over the other website asking questions and one answer
he got was to twist the two separate H and V sync wires together and
use the 5-pin R,G,B, Gnd, and single S pin on the board he has like mine.
I didn't try that.

Well hey now, you got something!  All I could get was a tiny blip of an image for a fraction of a second -- you could clearly see cards in your test.

Do you have the 8-pin connector that plugs into P11?  I just noticed something in the instructions that I just found:


I'm positive that when I tested, I had H Sync attached to HS, not S.  Perhaps it's worth trying the way they mention, using that P11 connector?

Yeah knagl!
I was using the 8-pin [P11] connector.
I didn't have the 5-pin RGB connector really so I went the other route.
The picture was jumping all over the place though.
Did you ever try twisting the two separate  H & V sync wires together and
connecting them to the the composite "S" pin on the P3 connector like the guys said on KLOV?
Maybe that'll stop the Jumping Beans?

I'd still like to try the RBGHV serial port ( P10) but I don't know the pin outs of that port on the board.
The traces are hidden underneath the serial port housing itself.

Hello Guys

Found another manual here - http://www.converters.tv/products/cga_to_vga/657.html. I suspect that your card is a clone of this product (Do the chinese clone chinese products  :72-)

It specifically states that it support CGA Separate Sync (15khz).

Ian

Which one of these do you think we should try TZ?
I found your link and this pin-outs of the input ports on the board?
If I use the 8-pin header, which wire should the "shield" wire (gray) connect to on the PE+?>>>

SB

I would go with P11 as Kevin did - What interesting on this one is this "Display on the monitor is: “No signal” – Press “SW” to switch input port." Which suggests that you have to select which of the inputs your are using.

Ian

I tried but got nothing, but then again I never even got as close as you did in your first video, so don't let my experience stop you from trying that.

For kicks, did you try connecting the HSync from the PE+ to the "S" (instead of HS) on the 8-pin connector?  I'm guessing that perhaps was a typo in those directions I found, but it's worth a shot.

The manual that Ian found (http://www.converters.tv/manuals/rgb_-_cga_ega_hd_to_vga_converter_657_512.pdf (http://www.converters.tv/manuals/rgb_-_cga_ega_hd_to_vga_converter_657_512.pdf) ) is, I'm pretty sure, the "better" manual that I have saved on my computer at home.  I'm attaching it to this post, too, just in case that site ever goes away.


The board auto-searches for a signal whenever it's powered on, so you can simply cycle the power to get it to look for a new video signal (regardless of which port it's plugged into).  I think if you press and hold the down switch for a few seconds it forces it to scan for signals again, but power cycling seemed to be more reliable for me (it seemed to lock up a lot, requiring a power cycle anyway).  The left "SW" is supposed to make it switch between inputs.

Sorry for the delay, I got burned out a bit mentally and went home.
It's frustrating sometimes when it doesn't go your way but after dinner,
a few hrs rest, and watching stupid tv shows, I've come to a conclusion over what happened today.

I played a lot with different cabling configurations and
actually changed the "shield" housing pin location from the #4 to the #5 position
but I could never get really any better results other than the short videos I've pasted below.
Pulling out the Horizontal pin and just touching it at various un-timed intervals gave
me remarkably better signals sometimes as I was toying with the syncing timing points.
Basically it's like playing with a car's distributor cap without
a timing gun light pointed at the flywheel markings... :5-

I'm leaning very much towards TZ Tech's suggestion of replacing the
Octal D type Flip Flop with a 74HV534 chip on one of my working PE+ boards.
Whether or not I can locate this chip is another small undertaking I'm sure
but apparently it doesn't invert the signals like the 74Hc574 chip.

If I do happen to locate this chip, I will take out the 74Hc574 chip and
install in a socket at that location and throw in a install a 74HV534 chip.
Then after that, I will try the GBS-8220 board again and see if I can get better
and more stable video sync and color results.

The other option is to win the lottery and sink in and purchase a
Ceronix CPA3004 complete with touchscreen panel !!! ( never in my lifetime...lol)

Let me throw a question out there into the mix>>>

We know the signal gets flip flopped after leaving the 74Hc574 chip
then gets thrown out onto the harness right?
Does the board on the CRT invert the signal back and then process it into the picture tube?
Maybe we can intercept that re-inverted signal back into the GBS-8220 board?

While we're mulling that question over in our minds -
check out what we're facing at the moment...lol
This is as far as I got onto an LCD monitor before I ran  :138- out the door for the weekend! >>>

http://www.youtube.com/v/Rn-PJAI9sSc?fs=1&hl=en_US (http://www.youtube.com/v/Rn-PJAI9sSc?fs=1&hl=en_US)

http://www.youtube.com/v/4jOSE2iuX6w?fs=1&hl=en_US (http://www.youtube.com/v/4jOSE2iuX6w?fs=1&hl=en_US)

K+ for your efforts.  Don't give up!  You've already gotten further than I did!   :244- :244- :244-

Hello SB

The Octal flip flop wont take care of the synch Issue -  Its only my theoretical fix for inverting the colours. It is possible that the Synchs are also inverted although the card should auto adjust to this. You have a scope right - have a look at whats happening on the two Synchs and what the frequencies are. At least then you know that its throwing out synch timings that the card can understand.

Ian

 :279- :208- :97-Hello new life team and members,,,,,,,thanks alot for assigning me a membership in the forum,thanks on the progress regarding the CRT TO LCD UPGRADE  on the Player edge plus as we call it in KENYA..HAS anyone succeeded on the project*conversion//////or is there anyone with the information as to where i can buy or source the conversion kits and wont mind chinese stuff as long a it workssssss...got alot of DEAD IGT PE + POKERS in east africa..used some chinese monitors which comes with video inversion card but i think an upgrade should be the way forward .......kindly help
tech dougs  :162-

Hi Doug! Welcome to New Life Games! :136-
Unfortunately I couldn't get it to work correctly.
I heard of some guys down in South America that maybe got some video converter
to work with an LCD screen for the PE+, but I cannot verify that.

If you look back into the previous posts - you can see what I tried to do but
there was a lot of problems in the way the screen was coming up.

The only solution for now is to get a used one from ebay or go all out and
spend the big bucks on brand new ones from places like Suzo-Happ Controls.
The part number is: 49-11326-00
Here's the link to it. >>>

http://www.happcontrols.com/images/pdf/ceronix_brochure.pdf (http://www.happcontrols.com/images/pdf/ceronix_brochure.pdf)

Below is the info on it I clipped from the brochure.
Click on picture to enlarge...>>>





 

 :244- :3-

Thanks STAY on a warm welcome,,,,soo bad bad that your conversion could nt work,been following the postings throughout infact NLG is almost becoming an addiction..got several catalogues from SUZO and i swear not so many people are ready to spend all that MONIES.WILL try the e bays for a second hand but bearing in mind the technology was born just the other day this is a mountain to climb.......will keep in touch Chao!!!!!!!!!!

 :254- :254-TECH DOUGS

Hello Doug

Welcome to NLG. Nice to see another tech from Africa here. Maybe consider Ceronix CRT instead. I paid +/- $250 from Suzo Happ a year or two ago. Contact Ceronix I am sure they have excess CRT that they will be happy to get rid off. I have ordered a very large order from them while I was stil in Tanzania and recieved the shipment without any problems - Its the best CRT you will get and there is plenty of service info available.

Ian

Ian posted this link a while ago:

http://www.freewebs.com/ertech-gaming/productos.htm (http://www.freewebs.com/ertech-gaming/productos.htm)


If you click on the second one from the top-left, "DUPLICADORA VGA", it shows you this:

(http://i56.tinypic.com/24fcl53.png)(http://i54.tinypic.com/15ppu2q.png)



dougskenya: Welcome to the NLG website!  If you have success contacting ERTECH Gaming, there are many members of this website who would also like to purchase their converter board.

Hello,

If you want to replace a CRT by a LCD on a PE+, I can give you all documents to do that.
I found how to do that in the old website
Let me know

Have a great day

DEAR NOU

 :244- :244- :244-HOPE HAD enjoyous christmas season,,,,,,,,Congratulations on a job weelll done.am sure this will make us move so many miles ahead,Am still pushing the ertech gaming(South america) for the
supply of the inversion cards...have not gotten a response of late but i suspect the xmas holidays were the cause=they only hinted on the cost as US$95 each.

Please ADVICE,,,,,INFORM ME on the PE plus UPGRADE..i will be glad to receive the papers i will receive them with two hands. :131- :131-

REGARDS DOUGS

nousmeme,
I am very excited that you were able to do an LCD conversion for the PE+.  :89-
Can you send me the documentation on how this is done?
I was close but did not succeed...  :47-  :99-
I ran into major problems with the sync...  :5-

By all means - many of us are interested.

Please post - you can attach 2 files to each post or you can zip them up and just post one zip file.

Mucho appreciated !

nousmeme-

Welcome to NewLifeGames!

Yes, we are very interested!  Please post or send whatever you have as a number of us would like to convert our PE+ machines to LCD screens!

 :244- :244- :244-

Thank you in advance!

Hi Guys,

We modified many PE+, two years ago and they still work great.

First of all, you need to modify the mainboard (see the attached file).

We have to use the converter ACV-011 from Weiya.com.tw (http://www.weiya.com.tw/products.asp?le=english&fid=111 (http://www.weiya.com.tw/products.asp?le=english&fid=111)) the price was $48.00 in 2008
About the DIP SW, I will give you the configuration later.

We use also a LCD from them, the MT15T SERIES (http://www.weiya.com.tw/products_detail.asp?le=english&fid=55&pid=39&tCatName=15%20in (http://www.weiya.com.tw/products_detail.asp?le=english&fid=55&pid=39&tCatName=15%20in).) the price was $205.00 in 2008.

Unfortunately, I forgot the name of the guy who posted that on the old NLG website and taught us how to modify the mainboard.
Once again, many thanks to him.

Should you require further information, please feel free to contact me.

Enjoy

Welcome to NLG nousmeme :88-

There are definitely a lot of members here who will benefit from an LCD conversion solution for the PE+. :3- :3-

StatFreak :31-
:nlg- Global Moderator


P.S. I do seen to vaguely recall the information in your PDF document. At least the pictures look familiar. :97- :97-

Was there any modifications done the the Wei-Ya LCD monitor?
It looks like the modifications were done to the PE+ MPU only?
If not, then that means I can use just about any regular desktop PC computer LCD screen?

I will try modifying / soldering a couple of caprom chips in the morning if I can find an extra one laying around.

Great stuff, thank you (and K+) for posting it.   :244-

A few of us have the Gonbes 8220 converter (http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=3508.0), which was made after the ACV-011 -- I think that it might work too, but we'll have to find out.

Would you be able to spell out to us how you have the video connected from the PE+ to the ACV-011, and what DIP switch settings you use on there?  Thank you in advance!




Mark (Bunker)-

I would *think* so -- that converter board that he posted should be able to output to a standard VGA monitor (CRT or LCD).

I'm putting you in charge of figuring out how to make this mod work on the machine side (rather than the board), so that I can do the mod once on my machine and be able to swap boards (I have different games on different boards so I'm not always moving chips around).   :96-

Oh yeah...making me the test pilot again...  :5-
As if I didn't lose enough gray hairs last time we screwed around with this thing.... :72-

See, I'm trying to help -- by losing the gray hairs, you'll look younger!

(Unless the gray is all that's left!)

Hi and welcome to NLG

Great Info - Thanks and K+.
.sn is Senegal ? If so great to see another member from Africa.

Regards
Ian

   HELLO GUYS
this sound wonderfull.unfortunately i cannot see the attachments mentioned
First of all, you need to modify the mainboard (see the attached file).
seems to me that an ordinary desktop monitor will...........the major question is=what did you exactly do to the
mpu board(2008 is not so far out of mind sir!!!!!!!!! PLEASE HELP US)

Good to see another AfRiCaN Join us WEL COME BAK

After analyzing the info presented, it seems it would be a lot easier to just replace the original chip (74HC574) with a 74HC564.  It is a pin compatible chip with a built in inverter.  It should mount in the same hole and be low profile.

-Stolistic

Do you see the line below his post (Reply #76) (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=382.msg95048#msg95048) with the attachment?  Look at where the green arrow is:

(http://i55.tinypic.com/zlq97p.png)

If not, this should be a direct link (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=382.0;attach=29202) to it.

Ooh, that sounds even better.  :3-  Got one of those laying around?

Also, nousmeme, can you share with us how you have the sync hooked up to your CGA > VGA converter card, please?  Thank you in advance!

Sorry I couldn't find any.  They run about a buck a piece.  If you order any get the 20-pin DIP version.

Here is an eBay listing (with the wrong picture, $5.95 shipping)
http://cgi.ebay.com/IC-74HC564N-20-PIN-DIP-74HC564AN-74HC564-/390063508282?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ad198cb3a (http://cgi.ebay.com/IC-74HC564N-20-PIN-DIP-74HC564AN-74HC564-/390063508282?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ad198cb3a)

Or you can get new from Mouser ($6.95 shipping):
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=M74HC564B1Rvirtualkey51120000virtualkey511-M74HC564 (http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=M74HC564B1Rvirtualkey51120000virtualkey511-M74HC564)

I'll take 2 or 3 if you end up ordering :)

You will take 3, as I just ordered 6 of them -- 3 for you, 3 for me.  :89-

I got 3 as well... :89-
Thanks for the chip info Stoli ! :3-

Now, I wonder how he hooked up the sync to the CGA>VGA board?  :128-

 HELLO TEAM MEMBERS

 :104- :95- :208- has anyone tried to modify the IGT PE + MPU as nouseme had illustrated on the attachment:i have done exactly the same

i.e i married 74LS540 TO 74LS574,SOLDERER a twenty pin socket as directed,,,,i tested using an Ordinary TFT monitor and i Swear am almost there!!!!!

There is video on the upper half of the screen,color ockey,three cards on the left side of the screen and two cards on the right side...i pre suppose the issue
is video frequency.am STUCK.
LET anyone with an idea help me please,,,can send the photos if need be to anyone interested.Let also NOUSEME SAY SOMETHING now===we are heading to
the right place.
dougs

The instructions he posted will ONLY fix the inverted video colors.  The issue you are having is with the RGB frequency.  Unless you have an older monitor that supports 15khz, you will not get a clean signal.  That is why you must use a RGB to VGA signal converter from 15khz to 31khz so your newer monitor can accept the signal.

A couple members on this discussion have such a converter board, but do not know how to hook it up properly to the machine (especially the Sync portion).

thanks stoli.....we are all sailing in the same boat,,,,,,,i will try to work on the mpu board video frequency oscillator and
see whether its possible to double up the FREQ from 15khz to 30KHZ AND ABOVE..I BELIEVE there is a way.

thanks

I like the way this boat is sailing....  :104-  :104- would love to do this with out having to add in a video convertor..... keep up the good work and postings.

Hopefully you'll re-visit this topic and let us know what you have your dip switches set at, and more importantly, how you have the wires for the monitor hooked up to the CGA -> VGA converter.  We need to know how the sync wires attach to that unit.  Thank you!

Hi everyone, this is my first post on this forum.

Like all of you, I have been trying to get my IGT video poker to work with an LCD (since the monitor up and died)
Well I am happy to report I got it to work!!!  Its onlt a rough bench test but it is working!!!
I know the big question is how did you do it?

We all know the video is inverted, so I found this:  http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=NININVAMP
Its ment for Nintendo arcade boards since they also did inverted video.
Then I needed to fix the sync since it also is inverted, and I found this:  http://www.twobits.com/RGB/sync.html
and of course I needed an GBS-8220 CGA to VGA converter.
OK, now to hook it all together:
The red,green.& blue go to the video inverter board; the Horizonal & Vertical I tied together and ran thru the 7404;
the output from the 7404 goes to the video inverter board (it expect normal sync not inverted sync. Ironic huh);
Then the output from the video inverter board goes to the VGA converter.
And what do you know I almost had a perfect picture; I ended up adjusting (on the VGA converter) the clamp st=100 and the clamp sp=00.
Now I have a perfect piture, with the exeption on a little rolling from some interferance but seeing how I have wires all over the place it's expected.
Next I have to clean everything up with short wires and perf-board.

I really like the fix that nousmeme brought up for the colors, I may try that to compare results.

Welcome to NLG Big_D  :88-  and  :259- for your first post.  :3- :3-
Hopefully your information will help the members who have been trying to get this to work for quite some time. :71-

StatFreak :31-
:nlg-  Global Moderator

Hello Big D

Thats a great first post - Welcome to NLG and K+ for that info. Now that we know what setup works we can test the on board colour inverting mod and possibly also do a on board mod for the synch.

Still trying to source on of those VGA converters here in South Africa with no luck. Hopefully some of the othere members that have these already can hook theirs up and get it working..

Regards
Ian

That's pretty awesome work Big_D !  :3-
When you get a chance, you think you could make up
a diagram of how this is all hooked up?
It's been so long since I've worked on
it that I've forgotten how...lol

It would be pretty neat if you could show us a short
video clip or photo of the LCD powered up and running... :89-

hae to all,,,
Congratulation to big-D FOR getting things done..this is all what we wanted..
Mine i got halfway in that i was able to get a good signal onto the LCD using the inversion style
NOUSEME had posted,,remember the u45 modification(inter marry 74HC540 WITH 74HC574) [/color]
but my video was half the screen,I AM BACK TO BOOKS NOW for more research,Is there anyone
with an idea as to how much it WOULD cost to get the original LCD CONVERSION kit from CERONIXS
right away/does it require any board modification/,]we might be spending more than what we can spend
when buying...what is the ease of getting the inversion cards-would like ten pieces if proven working please.
It would be pretty good if Big d posted some diagrams,,won't mind sketches or well enough a video clip.
i can post the photos of what i managed incase there is anyone interested,

REGARDS
DOUGLAS-KENYA.

Hi

Info from http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/vidconv.htm#nvcctv

CGA to VGA
This requires both converting the signal levels from TTL to analog as well as doubling the scan rate since modern VGA monitors will not go down below 31 kHz H. CGA is around 15.7 kHz. If you aren't fussy about how the colors map, the signal level conversion may be just some resistors. However, the scan rate conversion requires capturing the data on each line and spitting it out twice in one line time, and providing the proper H sync to match. This would consist of a double buffer digital line memory (for the CGA TTL bits) and timing logic to store line n while reading out line n-1 twice at double the rate. It's all doable but not a project for a digital novice.  

Ceronix LCD is currently $371 - This is a bit steep for home users but for a casino well worth the expense as You are getting in My opinion the best monitor on the market.
Should be a drop in replacement but be aware that there are 2 styles of monitor connector on the PE+ (Normally depend if you have the IBA/non IBA type). Have ordered both spares and CRT's/LCD from Ceronix in the state and shipped to Tanzania with no hassles.

Ian

You know pictures would have been a great idea, why didn't I think of that...

I will take some pictures tomarrow when I get home from work. I would do it today but with it being Valentines Day there are other priorities.

HI
Thanks TZ TECH,BIG D and everyone participating on the project,,,,,,,i go with your opinion $371 aint small for an indoor  machine
,,,better for a casino but also no cheap as you will require several pieces for uniformity purpose.LETS GO FOR THE MODIFIED OPTION.

 :208- :97-LETs wait for the photos as promised by big d................to all of us HAPPY Valentines....dedicate sometime for someone now.
dougs

This would be a huge boon to home users as we could recycle old LCD monitors, etc for flat screens (I think).

Sorry for the delay in posting, had a medical hickup that had me in the hospital a few days.  But its all good now.

Anyway, here are two quick pictures to give a rough idea of what I did.
I will work on cleaning it up and mounting inside the cabnet.

One interesting point, although the CGA/VGA converter says 5volts in I had to use a adjustable power supply that output 7.5 volts to get it to catch the video.

I also have a short video I took with my cell phone but I need to convert it into a normal format.

Oh and yes I know its actually a screen from keno not poker, I was converting it when the monitor died. But now I can finish it.

That's great, thanks.  Hopefully I'll be able to figure out how to get that mess of wires into my machine...  :)  (Glad you're doing okay, too!)


One note on the GBS-8220 converter: it calls for (and needs darn close to) 5vdc at 2.0 amps.  Most "wall wart" converters don't output anywhere near 2 amps, so the end result is that the thing dies when you feed video through it because it's not getting enough amperage.  If your power supply isn't outputting 2 or more amps, I'd consider looking for one that does (even though your fix of setting it to 7.5v is working for now).



More than likely, Youtube will let you upload it in its current format and will convert it for you, then if you just paste the Youtube URL into a post here, it will embed the video for you.

Will the Keno light pen work with a LCD screen ?
I think it needs the scan line info.

I agree, Jay, I don't think the keno pen will work.  Every other game (including Keno with the keno keyboard) would work, however.

Jay,  knagl is right, light pens wont work with LCD's.
The unit I'm converting has the keno keyboard, that I remove to replace with belly glass.  As well as add all the buttons for poker.
I have done 2 other keno to poker converstions, One for Dad, and one for my brother.  This was my 3rd convert for myself.
I have 3 extra keno keyboards if any one wants them.

knagl,  I will try to make a nice clean (and easy) design of it all and share it when done.  That will hopefully make it easy for everyone to repeat the process.

That's fantastic!  K+ in advance -- I look forward to it.  I already bought one of those GBS-8220 boards, so I'm very interested in finishing my first machine (and then doing the same to my second machine).

But if you used a real touch screen would that work with the pen? Not with light but with a regular stylus to touch the numbers?

Although I've seen a mention of "touchscreen" on a PE+ schematic, I've never seen a PE+ with a touchscreen, so the short answer is no, it wouldn't work.  The long answer is that you might be able to re-invent the wheel and figure out a way to get a touchscreen to work with a PE+, but that seems like an awful lot of work with next to nothing of available documentation on how to implement it, for very little benefit.  The easier solution to run keno on a PE+ with a LCD conversion would be to use a keno keyboard.

I have seen that same schematic and reference.
The problem however is the software support for the PE+ which even if the hardware support is there the software support is probably non existant.

I purchased some ELO touch screen monitors and built myself a touch screen jukebox with a PC. The USB interface from the monitor escentially mimics a mouse.

It should be possible to build a custom interface board that simply divides the screen into 5 sections - one for each card.  This would allow you to touch the cards or anything in the 1/5th of the screen. Then outputs to a momentary touch which would go in parallel to the buttons. The other two buttons are deal and cash out.

 :212- :293- :284- :259- :205- I am so happy to read this as this has been a challenge for many of us for quite some time!!! K+ from me too! Tahnks for such great effort and sharing with everyone here!

CaptainHappy :95-
:admin-

Big_D: Are the colors correct when you have a video poker program in there (ie. hearts are red, spades are black, and the default background is blue)?  My concern is the red background from the keno screen you showed.  While it's possible to change the background color, I know that red isn't the default.  I'm kinda hoping that you had changed it to red, and not that there's a color conversion issue with your process.

Good Question knagl,

I'm pretty sure I changed the background, but I will make it a point to switch the ROMS this weekend and post a pic of the poker screen.

hallllloos
Thanks big D FOR YOUR HELPFULL HANDS,
hope not to me alone... :186- :61-.this is becoming a long journey...there has never been anything easy out of this
small machine.IGT PLAYER EDGE PLUUUUS...where can i get the parts that big D used TO Get things sorted
i mean the two video cards and the Synch cooking I.C  :79-and at how much.,.;'/i would like them delivered to KENYA.

DOUGLAS

knagl, I put the poker roms in this weekend to check the color, odd thing though, all the colors had a washed out look to them.

Now maybe it's just that I have the wrong color prom, maybe??? I will look into that.

I'll keep digging and let you know what I find.

Thanks for the update.  Hopefully you'll have some good news to report.

Another thought I had -- the self test screens should display a red, blue, and green test screen (it's near the end of all of the test/menu stuff) -- just keep pushing the self test button and it should bring you to those screens.  Are those correct?

Just a bump to see if anyone has made any progress.  I saw these pictures on another site and it reminded me of what I want my PE+ bartops to look like.

(No, the real-life casino wins pictured here were NOT by me.)

Let's get our LCDs working with the PE+!

So glad I've finally found this subject. I have plenty of 15 inch lcd monitors available @$20 each all brands. I have the cga to vga jammaboard paid $47 total
from Jammaboards.com.
 I have a 1991 25 cent IGT Multi Poker and a 1983 IGT Dollar Poker. Both are Ceronix 1492 monitors. As I see this issue we need a does all simple signal processor board that converts/inverts everything in 1 or 2 chips.
I build electronics and will be looking for the IC/s we can use, then make a few for those who want them.  I'm retired with plenty of spare time. Sounds like a simple enough problem. I just learned of the inversion problem tonite. I get "NO SIGNAL" on a Dell 15 monitor with Chinese graphics from the 8220 board is all now. The one available they want $31 thats too much for me.
Looking to find English menu on this jammaboard also anyone know?  bye!

Welcome to the site!

I'm always excited when someone bumps this thread.

Which exact board do you have? A picture or a link to the product page with a picture of it would be great. If it's the one I have there is an English menu and I can figure out how to get to it for you.

I have the latest Jamma GBS8220. Also I have 3- 3906
emmiter follower inverted RGB outputs being fed by IC
hc374 ? looks like. So the base is being driven by a non-inverted signal I think. Going to the scope now I'll see whats what.

Alex-

I, too, have the GBS-8220.  I presume you've read this entire thread?  If not, start at page 1 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=382.0) and hopefully there will be some useful info for you.

There's a manual you can download attached to the bottom of this post (click here) (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=382.msg83854#msg83854) - it says that the language menu has three choices on it -- English, Chinese, and Exit (to exit that part of the menu).  It's been so long since I've messed with it that I don't remember how to get to that specific menu, but some trial and error got me to that menu where there were only three choices, and I was able to change the language on mine.

Oh, good, check out the video embedded in this post by stayouttadabunker (Mark) (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=382.msg83824#msg83824).  At 2:08 into the video he shows what the menu and then language menu look like on the GBS-8220.  Hopefully that'll get you switched to English.


While I'm highlighting posts of significance, be sure to check out my post here (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=382.msg83831#msg83831) which mentions that the GBS-8220 requires voltage of 5vdc at 2 amps.  If you don't give it 2 amps, it fades out on you.  Also check out Mark's video directly below that post -- for a fleeting second he was able to get the card images to appear, although they appeared well out of sync.  I think sync is the biggest issue we were facing, since the PE+ uses separate horizontal and vertical sync.  The GBS-8220 needs composite sync (as best as I was able to figure out), and will give you the ol' "No Signal" message if the signal it is getting isn't synced.

Let me know if I can help you with this, Alex -- I'm still anxious to get my PE+ machines running with LCD monitors.  :89-

I'm back with news to report on what I've done. IGT Multi Poker 1991.
I used a 7404 and inverted everything. Tied Vsync and Hsync together to
Hsync in.
Now I have a good solid pic but the problem is color is no good ie: redish/pink
and black only. If I can resolve this colors issue looks like fixed done.
Don't know what to think about colors yet.

alex666,

That is good progess, looking great so far!  :259- for your efforts and sharing! Hopefully someone can help with this solution!!! :89-

CaptainHappy :95-
:admin-

My thoughts exactly!  Congrats on your current progress!  :3-

A friend of mine who knows the PE+ inside and out (NLG member Stolistic) is out of town right now, but I'll ask him to look at this thread next week and see if he can help.

Finally! A stable picture! Awessome! :3- :244-
I hope you figure out the color wires.
How was it done exactly?
It looks like you made yourself an small board connected to the GBS-8220 board we're playing with.
I'd like to try it and see if I can get the colors to work?
Have you tried going straight into the LCD from the GBS-8220 with the color wires
or are they all going into your sync tied board?

I simply got a 7404 IC and used pins1 red in pin2 red out inverted.
Then pins 2/3 for green and 4/5 for blue then 8/9 and 10/11 for
H/Vsyncs. All outputs go to Jamma inputs. Seems to work best with
both H/V syncs tied together @ the Hsync input no vert sync in was used. Pin 7=GND pin 14=5vdc +/- 0.25vdc

Awessome!  :89-  :131-
I wonder why the color gets lost though?  :128-

Have a friend who saw a LCD conversion in South America. Down there they can get real creative with getting stuff to work. Lack of original parts and no jurisdiction rules and anything goes.
As he explained it to me, they soldered wires to the chip and grabbed the signal before it was inverted on the MPU.
Ran the wires to the front of the tray and installed a connector for the LCD screen.
He said it looked crude but worked good. He was going to put together a board as a retrofit, but got busy with his back-end system he's installing.

I wish he would have taken some pictures.
I think it was the MRO chip produces the red color
MGO is the green color and MBO is the blue
This is why you need matched chip sets as each produces its own color attributes.

I attached a copy of some schematics, see pages 133, 134 and 135
Let me know if this helps you out as it should provide you the info to correct your color issue.

Maybe Ceronix would be kind enough to release a schematic of the cpa3003 so we can see how they do it. Because they plug into the same connector I believe so they deal with that same signal source apparently for everything. Just called Ceronix got ans.mach. so later. Next I'll try a friend who has an electronic slot service in LV.  Probably the dreaded proprietary info BS hope not.

In that case, why not just take a old 1492 chassis and remove the flyback for safety. Then tap into the RGB output to your VGA monitor?
Would that give you the correct output?

I'll have to look at the 1492 schematic. They have jumpers for various machines
with/without inverted video/sync. I'm not to good on tvs but the 1492 is a bit different I think. I could try to tap somewhere though I'll see what I can do.
My other machines. I've  less serious problems with these.

I,m working hard on this still. What I need is some schematic for the Fortune 2
Dollar Poker to see the area of monitor output from mother board. I am zeroing in on this but want to test on my Fortune 2 instead of my PE Multi-Poker. I think I am close to the fix for the conversion. It will require making connections to the motherboard. (Simple to do). I have block diagram only of Fortune II. If I have it fixed it will work on Fortune II and PE both and others.

Way back deep in this thread somewhere, I think it was Jim that mentioned
something about getting an octo flip or Opto chip.
I don't recall what number of the chip it was but if you got that installed onto the board -
it would flip the signals correctly.
You'd have to do a search for it...
I was going to buy some of the chips to try it on mine
but never got around to it.

I need schematic to ID certain areas on Fortune II as compared to PE+. I believe I am making progress need this data to proceed.

Alex-

I was showing this post to my friend Stolistic and when he read it out loud to me, something stuck out that I hadn't caught before.

According to what you posted (quoted here), you have red on pins 1 and 2, but then green on 2 and 3.  To our reading, you have red and green touching pin 2.  Is that correct, and if so, could that be the cause of the botched colors?

Also, would you be kind enough to post a schematic of your breadboard -- even if it's just sketched out in pen and scanned in or something, so we can have a visual of exactly what you're using from the PE+, what kind of chip(s) and transisitors and whatnot you have the signal going through, and exactly where and on what pins you're connected to the GBS-8220?  Now that you've gotten the sync issue, resolved, we're pretty confidifent that we can get the color issue resolved, but it would be extremely helpful if you could post a visual of what you're currently doing with the signal.

Thanks!

Here ya go. See the sync inversion here is the same as if it was red I used 1-2r then3-4g then 5-6b then I used 8-9 then 10-11 for V/H sync invert.
This inverts things BUT does not solve anything. We still need something and I think I know so need the print on Fortune II motherboard. I played with the sync variations too still NG. I use my PE+ for $$$$ so do not want use for experiments but I will if necessary.  Note: I just used the board with all that other stuff just to
mount and connect leads to the 7404 in the pix I posted.

Hello Alex

Are You using the RGB signals coming from Your processor board and the inverting them ? I believe this is where the problem is as you are then driving your colours full on or full off. Have a look back in this thread at post 55 where I posted the output driver stage for the PE+. I think it will work If you invert the signal that are driving the transistors You should get a good image.

Ian

I know thats what I'm doing. If I get the print I'll have the ans very soon
I hope. Someone should have the Fortune II schematic.

After some more research I think I know what is needed. I found a forum  from Europe and in their discussions the same problem plagues them BUT I see they seem to have zeroed in on the problem. I have spoken to the Ertech Co. in Colombia some also. The say frequency doubler needed,spotty info from Ertech.
See the suggested board (no longer avail) attached. I will try to locate more info
the chips shown are not available now. This is a doubler like is needed. The inverting is not the problem that's easy.

The GBS-8220 serves as a frequency doubler. It's converting 15mhz CGA to 30mhz VGA (that's what a doubler does). In your setup it is proven that it's doing that successfully since you have a viewable picture on your VGA monitor.

Thats what I thought ....

Found this wonder if will work different than GBS-8220.

Well I am pumped now I have found the company who makes these cga to vga converter boards like gbs 8220 AND also makes LCD screens for slots & games.
Waiting reply from them.

Still after it. Have new board coming from china I believe will work but price is not good.
Couple weeks I'll know.

New board still no good. GBS 8219 XVGA does not work differently than GBS 8220.
So back to the search for the answer.  :60-

i got a computer flat screen to work great in a game maker -since the game maker has buttons, most of the games work ok without using the touchscreen.

however trying to put a flat screen in a PE plus has been troublesome, the flat screen doesn't recognize the signal from the PE.
getting the wiring correct or possibly needing a converter

That's been the ongoing problem for the past 4 years.
The best we've seen so far was a "stable" picture but the colors were waay off...  :8-

Right, read this entire thread and you'll see the problem. The Bally GameMaker uses VGA video which a standard computer monitor recognizes. The PE+ uses CGA video which modern day monitors do not recognize.

I think I found the solution, just weld a additional chip and all done....have photos but dont know how to post it...

multipoker photos

Is that right off of U-45 ???
What are the red and blue wires from CR28 and CR29?  Are they the other end of the ones you use for the inverted signal?
And where did you get the adapter board?

 :185- :206- :206- :206- :284-

GREAT NEWS! Could you please detail everything that we need to do to do this ourselves! It would be greatly appreciated! :259- :131- :244-

CaptainHappy :95-
:admin-

i buy the board from a chinese guy in Honduras...

Thanks for the reply.
Does he export to the USA? or do you?

If you have name or number I can order some now. :89-

Do you have the price?

ELKIN DARIO TABARES
       MANAGER
   ERTECH GAMING

Movil : 3113154932
Tel: 57(4)2346413
http://www.ertechgaming.co (http://www.ertechgaming.co)
ertechg@hotmail.com
Medellin Colombia
I could not communicate well enough with him and he did not reply mostly.

I have a friend down there. I'll send an email and see if he knows this company.

Years ago he told me about a conversion board they were using down there. This looks just like he discribed. The DB15 connectors sticks out the front of the tray when it's all installed.  :89- :89-

anyone can tell me how to make it myself........cause its very expensive

oh....that is waay cool!  :131-
It appears that the non-inverted signals come through the red and blue wires,
get converted via the piggyback board
and out through the VGA cable!
Nice!  :89-

Ya, That's what I was talking about two years ago back on post 26.
Man, it has been a long time.....
My friend never got to persue this conversion as he has been jammed up with his own backend casino system.
I did send him an email and he has conformed that this is the board he saw being installed. He said he was working on installing his system when a tech was installing this on a PE + machine next to him. At that time they were having problems with screen size using that board and didn't know if it was an issue with the LCD they were using or the board. He also stated he never did see if they fixed those issues.
I would have to say that this should be a workable solution given the previous post with pictures. That screen looks really good.
Now we need to buy just one.....

Don't time just fly when you're having fun?  :96-

If we could get our hands on one of the working boards, I know someone who could figure it out for sure and we could make them cheaply.

ronaldolai, do you have a working board that I could buy from you so we can figure out how it works and figure out how to make them so they're not so expensive?

Actually, the RED (rojo) and BLUE (azul) wires in the picture are the Sync signals and the 10 pin header soldered on the right side (output) of U45 is the unmixed inverted signal, which is sent to then sent to the piggyback.

I bought the 8220 board do u have the pinout to connect the machines signal i dont get any signal and what conector do u use the cga 5 pin or the p11  does it work fine or has the colors probkem?

The photo of the piggyback board shows that the chip has had its markings removed. Any guess as to this chip being off the shelf logic or a custom programmed PAL or GAL?

Progress.

Details shortly.

Nice! I look forward to your details!

:205- :205- :259- for your efforts! :244-

CH :95-

That's great!
It's the first clear picture of a PE+ game on an LCD screen I've seen!
Great job!  :244-

Kudo's + to ya!  :89-

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=382.0;attach=46661;image (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=382.0;attach=46661;image)

Well I'm sure we are all waiting on pins and needles to see what PowderMaker came up with!!

I'm afraid I gave in after not being able to produce stable consistant results and just bought the LCD upgrade from Suzohapp. I didn't like the $300.00 price but I did get my PE+ real cheap so...

Hi To All

Is good to see advance on the poker lcd solutions, about ertech gaming i can follow the hardware development through the years now they are working in a new version i want to put the pictures of the first version.

This is the Vga 2.01

Whit sigma poker support, now the board is  3.0 version and a new version is under development whit royal ascot sega support.

Thanks for the Update

From this thread it seems some members have tried to contact ERTECH in the past without much success. There are a few people interested in these would be great to get some pricing and availablity info from ERTECH. Please post more details if You can

Ian

Here ya go, I hope everyone can duplicate my results.

Cheers,
PowderMaker


Details in attached document.

This is great, thanks, and K+ to you!   :244-

Looking at what you did, it looks like Stolistic and I got very close the last time we worked on this, but we were missing the sync combiner circuit.  In fact, I had even previously seen that exact diagram you included in the document, but we never put one together to test to see if that would resolve the issue.  Nice work -- we'll attempt to duplicate it with the GBS-8220 board that I have (I don't see why it shouldn't work, too).


Edited to add: Are you applying power anywhere to the GBS-8200 board?  I don't see any connected in your pictures in the document, and I'm trying to determine if that's a difference between the 8220 board I have and the 8200 board you have, or if it was just a given that one would need to apply power to the board as well.

Basically, I'm gonna pee in my pants if this works!...   :72-
I'm keeping my fingers crossed and am ordering some parts tomorrow.  :89-

Yes, power is applied to both the GBS-8200 board and the sync board. The cord is not attached in the photos but, it is mentioned in the text. I think the only difference between the GBS-8200 and GBS-8220 is the dual VGA output on the GBS-8220.

Seems like everyone was within a hair, I think the trick is the adaptable sync. It has been rock solid in my tests. The video ground to both boards is key as well.
 

At the risk of making this thread longer, I just had to say ...

 :244- :244- :244- :244- :244- :244- :244- :244- :244-

 :131- :131- :131- :131- :131- :131- :131- :131- :131-

 :259- :259- :259- :259- :259- :259- :259- :259- :259-

 :wa

:293-   :284-

Great news, sorry I've been away doing other things and just checked in to find you have the answer. Spent a few hrs on the problem not to mention I bought every board out there etc etc. I'm looking for the 564 chip now.
Question have you tried all possible sync configurations ie: without sync board
just directly to 8220. Curious if you tried?

Going to flood the 574 with chip-quik and remove with hair dryer best way I think.

I didn't try to get a picture through the GBS-8200 without the sync board. Seemed like everyone else tried and had no luck.

They didn't change the 574 thats why I think. I was able to get sync easily just bad color so would like to try that. If so that makes it much simpler. I have all IC's on order to try myself anyway.

Did you combine the H and V sync with wire or logic?

Correct, for us at least.  We used a wiring harness that plugged into the PE+, and had the red, blue, and green wires attached to the GBS-8220 accordingly, and tried every combination of sync wires we could come up with (including twisting them together), and no dice.  We would sometimes see part of the image for a second or two, and that was as good as it got.



I'm interested in your results.  To the best of my understanding, the 574/564 change just deals with inverting the colors.  We were never able to get a sync'd signal like you did in this post (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=382.msg143616#msg143616), Alex, so just inverting the colors might work for you, but as I mentioned even when we tied the sync together we couldn't get a stable picture.

Yes Alex got a stable inverted picture in post #126

You caught me.  :)  I did a quick seach back in the thread and found it and quickly edited my post above, but you must have seen my non-edited post where I said, "did I miss where you got a stable image?".  :)

I'm curious, can this be taken a step further to modify the machine, rather than each MPU board?  I have multiple PE+ boards that I use to swap games in and out of my machines without having to mess around with removing and inserting chips all the time. 

Basically, I'm wondering if there's any way that the video inversion can be done outside of the board (leaving the existing U45 chip -- the 74HC574 in place on the board), to eliminate the need to modify every MPU board that would go into the machine?

When Alex said he inverted everything through the 7404, I thought that included the sync signals.

Karma Storm to Powder Maker for the first working re produceable circuit

Knagl

That will be a bit difficult as the RGB outputs are not simply a logic high or low - The latch switches a network of resistors and transistors to produce various voltage levels on the 3 colour drive outputs. I think this is why Alex was not getting the right colours back in post #126 as he was inverting the outputs.

Some more experimentation on the V and H drive should be done. As per attached schematic this is controlled by U56. The ideal would be to fit a socket here to and then have a inverting (CRT) and non inverting (LCD) chips which can be simply swapped around. Problem is I dont yet know what the other 2 gates on U56 are used for.

Hi Guys

Anybody with a GBS-8220 got this working ? Time to order one and wondering if its worth while paying a few extra dollars for the 8220.
Found these on EBAY - good price and free shippping

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-NEW-ARCADE-GAME-CONVERTER-CGA-RGB-YUV-EGA-to-VGA-GBS-8200-Promotion-now-/250899698913?pt=Video_Games&hash=item3a6ac994e1 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-NEW-ARCADE-GAME-CONVERTER-CGA-RGB-YUV-EGA-to-VGA-GBS-8200-Promotion-now-/250899698913?pt=Video_Games&hash=item3a6ac994e1)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ARCADE-GAME-CONVERTER-CGA-RGB-YUV-EGA-to-VGA-GBS-8220-Promotion-/250899701935?pt=PCC_Video_TV_Cards&hash=item3a6ac9a0af (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ARCADE-GAME-CONVERTER-CGA-RGB-YUV-EGA-to-VGA-GBS-8220-Promotion-/250899701935?pt=PCC_Video_TV_Cards&hash=item3a6ac9a0af)

I haven't had a chance to play with it since last year TZ but on that particular board,
I busted an adjustment dial the last time I was using it.  :8-
I broke one of the 3 color adjustments located next to the serial/VGA output.

To the best of my knowledge, the only difference between the 8200 that Powder Maker used and the 8220 is that the 8220 has two VGA outputs. Not necessary for this (unless you somehow want to have two screens showing the same image on the machine). Save the extra $3 and go with the 8200.

Hi All

Got a 8200 for $24 including shipping - Keep an eye on this seller there is still currently 2 on auction.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/eletronic1120/m.html?hash=item3cc6fe317a&item=261036585338&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&rt=nc&_trksid=p4340.l2562 (http://www.ebay.com/sch/eletronic1120/m.html?hash=item3cc6fe317a&item=261036585338&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&rt=nc&_trksid=p4340.l2562).

Has anybody done some more experimenting with the Synch mod?

Ian

http://www.ebay.com/itm/260944243273?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/260944243273?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619)

this one looks much simpler and cheaper, definitely won't invert, however -but will it work converting crt to lcd?

From what I can see through the board to the traces on the underside, there's no logic on the board, so I can't see how it could double the frequency to get from 15Khz CGA to the 30Khz needed for VGA.  :60-

just out of curiosity,  has anyone ever tried converting a sigma b-50 video poker to flat screen?,  seems like you run into screen problems, is it possibly vga instead of rgb?

Using the ACV-011 from weyia.com.tw seems to be easier
Would you please take a look at the attached file?

That board is more expensive and seemingly harder to find when compared to the GBS-8220 and similar, but thank you for your suggestion and documentation.

I pirchased yhe board from colombia and it works good even with widescreen it cost me about 80 usd each bought 10

Hello


About Wey-ya card works external whit signals however this sometimes shows a little flickering and upper right corner, about sigma exists a similar solution for those poker machines i try to upload tomorrow some picture working.

Best Regards

Next_G

Hi

Attach Sigma Poker Image

Best Regards
Next_G

I read thru this thread and can't remember if I saw this listed.

http://www.ambery.com/rgbcgatovgac.html (http://www.ambery.com/rgbcgatovgac.html)

For $89.00 US, I think it would be a less expensive alternative don't you think?

It says they will be "Restocked" again Dec. 17th.   :103-

Hello....and greetings to all....
my dear friend nousmeme....I reviewed your pdf regarding crt to lcd conversion and looks nice but I would like to have also images of the converted machine working, in order to see if colors remain similar to those on crt monitors or if they look better. Not that I don't trust your post or mod...I tell you looks interesting...but would like to see that working.....is a nice option....

by the way if you have any interest I can offer you this interface in the photo at a reasonable price plus shipping. Works really good and is tested.

palacehn,
How much US dollars is your conversion board?

we can do it for US$75.00 plus shipping.....if you need more we can deal a better price

(http://i.imgur.com/yGNcH.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/tclt1.jpg)

My dear friend nousmeme my respects....looks awesome...great job...

one doubt....you say on your document "It will require unsoldering a chip on the board (the video latch) and replacing it with a socket and a 74HC564" so I desolder or unsolder however you say it hehehe and put that socket?? inside that socket place 74HC564??? do these IC change in pin number??? or can I just put one in the place of the other?? sorry for my ignorance.

As for the friends asking me how to connect the cga/vga board I am offering. I leave you a picture with "connections"...on the IGT board.

hi to all from new zealand, i have just purchaced a jokers wild igt poker machine , it appears to a have a monitor issue, after not being able to convert the cga signal with a gbs 8200 converter that i  would normally use for arcade monitor testing/modifications , i have searched the internet to  end up here. the gbs 8200 & other versions are also available through allixpress, the red version of the cga to vga converter is better quality, the wei-ya cga to vga convertor is multi synch & a freq converter, where can you get the 74hc564 chip from?, has anyone else tried this yet? cheers matt

I have been watching the progress with this thread from almost the start and just wanted to thank all that worked on making this conversion possible especially PowderMaker.

I was given the upright PE+ Multi Poker machine and have been sitting on it for at least three years wanting to convert it to a LCD display. The CRT display was burned in, I had done the cap replacement so my final diagnosis was a failing flyback transformer and although it could be repaired I felt it was best to make the conversion.

I ordered all my parts from Mouser and the GBS-8200 off of eBay and began my trial run. I have to say it went fairly smoothly requiring only minor adjustments and I hope the colors are correct. Does any one have any suggestions on getting the service manual so I can learn more about these machines?

Thanks again to all!

Colors look bang on to me.
Which manual are you looking for ?
There is a PE electronic repair manual and there is a certonix manual specifically gor the monitor.

Hi Jay,

Thanks for the quick response! I am looking for any and everything for this machine that would cover schematics, error codes, trouble shooting, diagnostics because this is my first machine and really have no clue about it.

My background is in electronics and computer repair including component level and this project has sparked an interest in learning more about this industry.

KelTeck  Go to this link and see if there is anything you can use,    http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;cat=92

Hi Buzz,

Thanks so much! As a new member it never dawned on me there would be a download section because I am used to having to buy the technical data when needed.

This place is a wealth of information and I’m finding myself spending more time each day exploring.

Thanks again!

I think it's all documented here in the thread, but it's been so long since I've looked into this.  Would you mind posting a couple of close-up pictures of your connections to the breadboard and the GBS-8200?  That'd be awesome.

Hi knagl,

I spent some time drawing up a wiring diagram and this should make it easier but I will still post some photos if need be.

KelTeck-

That's fantastic, thank you for taking the time to do that!  K+ to you.

Hi knagl,

You are more than welcome and it is the least I could do to provide to this thread to say thanks to you and all that contributed to make this conversion possible. Without any knowledge about these machines and without the info provided here I would have thought this would have been a straight change over.

I have not done any technical writing or drawings since the eighties and although I went over this drawing numerous times before posting I would like to hear if there are any issues that need to be resolved.

To get a little off topic, I would like to know if this field is something I should pursue since I am watching the death rattle of the consumer repair side for electronics and computers. If I should make a separate post for this let me know and I do not know what K+ means but I will do a search for an answer.

Thanks!

K+ is "Karma +" -- the silly little "Total Karma Storms:" thing next to your name.  If someone contributes a good post to the discussion, it's customary to give them a positive karma point.  The points really don't mean anything other than "thanks".  Once you reach 10 posts you'll be able to give karma points to other members -- I think right now you can only see the point totals, but can't do anything to manipulate them.