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Author Topic: Soldering Batteries  (Read 2722 times)
a69mopar
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« on: June 12, 2009, 04:16:51 PM »

Wayne         you didn't lose much!!!   I've got a bunch of battery's if you need any. most of them with the leads

I liked to be able to go and pick up resistors, or other components, nowadays I have to buy them over the internet or on ebay.  I do buy them in bigger lots and have a couple drawers full of various capacitors resistors and crystal oscillators among other things.  I just bought a bunch of axial leaded aa size batteries on ebay, tadiran brand, When dealing with Bally machines you need a lot of these.

Thanks,
Wayne
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Buzz
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« Reply #1 on: June 12, 2009, 04:57:14 PM »

  I cut the axial leads off a new battery, cut the old battery axial leads as close to the battery as I can, presolder the new Bat. both ends, put it down in place heat the Bat. and let the solder flow down to the old axial leads.  I guess I just don't like putting heat to a board.  I have been told solder will not stick to a battery. BS use flux and it will.
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a69mopar
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« Reply #2 on: June 12, 2009, 05:01:42 PM »

I do it the hard way, unscrew the board etc.   It works for me.  I agree about the flux, for my electronics class in school, we used to scratch the battery ends with a razor then flux then solder, always held.

Thanks,
Wayne
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« Reply #3 on: June 12, 2009, 05:21:49 PM »

you don't even have to scratch it, if the iron is hot you can change a battery in less than a minute.  Another tip I use that doesn't have anything do do with slots but I'm passing it along. On my truck or trailer if I have to make a electrical connection instead of using tape ( that always comes loose ) I use Silicone gasket maker, once it drys you can't hardly  cut it off with a knife. This idea came around when I rewired a boat trailer!
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