Bally 2242 problem, shows "tilt" and "3rd coin" and 500000 (UPDATE)

[BR549 Auto Sales]

I was able to get the machine into test mode by holding the key reset switch down (the one on the inside bottom right of the cabinet) and pressing the reset button on the hopper control board.

On test #2 it seem as if some of the solonoids are not engaging, the lamps are cycling, each individual reel stop is working, the pull handle solonoid is working, it just seems like there should be a few more engaging.

Test # 3, no switches are showing open

Test #4 hopper dropped 10 quarters

Test #5 I got this code:  1.1.3...

Test #6 I got this code:  6.7.8.4.8.1.

Test #8 when I engaged the coin switch wire it came back to the same "3rd coin flashing and steady tilt light"

I am including the other pics that were requested

Hopefully getting closer to this albatross working again.

Thanks,

David

[BR549 Auto Sales]

pics

[BR549 Auto Sales]

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[BR549 Auto Sales]

last 2 pics

[tkrozleski]

 your ribbon cable that connects the MPU to the I/O may be wrong . The red stripes/tracers are 180* off compared to mine. Take your cable off and switch it. The red tracers on mine are facing the opposite direction as yours. The red tracer on the MPU should be toward the back of the machine and the red tracer on the I/O should be toward the bottom  of the I/O board. Give it a try.

[BR549 Auto Sales]

I just tried that and am still getting the same results, you had my hopes up for about............4 minutes, DANG!!!!!!!!!!1

[tkrozleski]

You changed the MPU, are all the socketed IC's in the proper position? The indents/marks for polarization should ALL be pointing to the right. Even though some the info/writing/ID maybe upside down they have to be as the indicators that is printed on the surface of the board. Are all the IC's seated all the way in? No of the pins on the IC's got folded under when swap from board to board? Check even the IC's that you did not swap.

[tkrozleski]

Take that ribbon cable off and take a pic of the pins of both ends so we can have a look see at that cable.

[tkrozleski]

The door lock switch with open contact/open connection can cause a 50 000 code, I do not think this is the same code you are having.

But try it anyway. The switch needs to be unactivated and the contacts need to be checked to make sure they are closed and completeing the circuit. Then make sure the "door open" tower light goes out when you close and latch the door. The tower light is working when the door opens and closes, correct? Also the door hinge switch has to be working properly.

[Amachanic]

Your machine has had me thinking...    It acts like a machine thats been coined up with the door open, they go right into a tilt mode.. Have you checked the condition and operation of the door hinge switch. It's located behind the bottom hinge.. One way to check it is to put the machine in a test mode, 2,3,4, etc., and then close the door. If it's working the test mode should stop and clear, giving you a 50000 in your win meter.. I did notice one thing in one of your earlier pics, and that is that your coin switch looks like its been worked on. Check and see if it's grounding out the wires to the metal plate it's mounted too. you don't have any insulators covering the wire where it's soldered to the switch.. One other thing I see is that there is no resistor between your divertor coil and coins switch? I don't thing thats going to cause this problem though.. One last thing, I have in the past removed and by passed the door lock cherry switch, I think they are wired nornally closed, so you should be able to just connect the wire together..

Gary

[BR549 Auto Sales]

Just tried another I/O board and ribbon cable, same results, nothing different. I did as you said though, went into test mode and closed the door, it stopped the test mode and went back to the "ti;t" and "plat 3 coins" flashing. It has to be some type of wiring issue in or around the door, door lock switch or coin switch I believe. Can you or someone else post a picture of the wire colors and the order they are in on the connector that goes to the power supply mounted to the back inside of the cabinet, I need to make sure mine is wired correctly because it had a poor repair job on it when I first got the machine. Another thing, there are 2 boards in the top behind the award glass, 1 is a sound board for sure but what is the other board for, perhaps my problem is in that board since it has a ribbon cable also that comes down to the I/O board. I could try to get a resistor to go between the coin switch and the diverter coil, can you tell me the proper resistor to use and if Radio Shack would have it or would I have to order one? I still can try to tie the wires together that are going to the door lock switch to see if that changes anything, would I also need to do the same for the switch on the right inside of the machine that is activated by the reset key? One last thing, could there be an issue with the reel readers that may not let the game get into play mode, plus I had a code in the window while on the reel reader test mode. On test #2 the coil/solonoid that activates the 3 reels locked position does not engage.  

[tkrozleski]

Here's some pics

[tkrozleski]

power supply

[tkrozleski]

I would disconnect the wires from the door lock switch and wire them together. This will eliminate that possibility of a bad switch.

Now do you have a light come on on your candle light on top of your machine when you have the door open? And does this light go out when you close the door? If the light does not come on a burnt bulb is the first suspect. Check and test the bulbs in the candle.

If the light comes on even though the door is closed, the door hinge switch needs to be adjusted. With the door open and the candle light is on, reach inside the hinge with a screwdriver and push in on the switch and see if the candle light goes out. This will tell you the switch is functioning properly and need adjusted tighter to the hinge if the light stays on when the door is closed.

Another thing when you have the door open and press the "test" & "reset" buttons on the hopper, press and hold the button on the right, as you hold this button down,  press the button on the left and then let go of both buttons.

You may have to do this process twice and the machine will reset and the reels will lock and the machine should reset.

[BR549 Auto Sales]

This machine does not have a candle, nor does it have an opening or a place on top for one. I will try to press the buttons on the hopper in the manner that you suggest. I already have the door lock switch wires cut and twisted together, that has not changed anything as of yet either. Can you post a picture of the coin switch area and diverter so I can see the proper wiring for those?

Thanks,

David

[tkrozleski]

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[tkrozleski]

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[tkrozleski]

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[tkrozleski]

The resistor I believe is light blue, red, red, gold. 6.2k ohm. I could not find it on the print. Wanted to confirm it because of age the colors may change and age of my eyes, just wanted to be sure.

[tkrozleski]

You could adjust the door hinge switch tighter to the hinge to be sure it is activating, being you do not have a candle light. You can hear the door hinge switch click when the power is off and while closing the door.

[BR549 Auto Sales]

The door switch is working fine because when in test mode, if I close it, it goes back to the tilt/play 3 coins flashing. I have also added the correct resistor and wired it together with the coin switch and diverter solonoid, still have the same problem. All I can think at this point is that it has to be a wiring problem of some type, unless there is a problem with the MPU, but it should be fine, it came from Barry at Fox Slots. I could send this MPU board to another member to test in their machine so I could at least rule that part out if someone would do that for me.

[Amachanic]

I've never worked on one of those type Bally's that have the credit buttons. Have you checked the door buttons functions? I don't believe that's the problem though. Beginning to wonder if it couldn't be a software problem? Have you checked the the two molex plugs that attach to the reels for any broken or grounded out wires? I'm kind of out of ideas on what to check next? I would check every bulb socket, molex plug connector, make sure that switch wires have insulators on them so they don't ground out. I've runing into a couple machines that have kicked my butt. Ones still in my garage waiting for me... I had to walk away from it before i reached for my sledge hammer... Maybe someday I'll get it fixed..

Gary

[BR549 Auto Sales]

All of the buttons function correctly when in test mode so I think they are all ok. I will check the 2 molex plugs again but they looked fine when I was first started working on the machine. It could have something to do with the reels though because on the #2 solonoid test the reels will set one at a time but will not lock all 3 at one time, like when you turn the game on and the all lock into place. The sledge is sounding like a better idea though, but it's a damn challenge now, don't want to let it beat me.

[proten]

I have the same type slot (Bally credit slot).
If you want, I will test your boards on my machine
to help you rule out the boards as the problem.
PM me if you want to talk on the idea.

Paul

[BR549 Auto Sales]

Well first of all I want to thank Proten, Barry at Foxslots, tkrozleski and Amachanic for the tech support on this game. Proten tested all of my boards from my game in one of his and did some solder repair, etc and he was getting the same tilt error in his game. Well, long story short, I purchased another E series MPU from Rudys Deals and swapped all of the personality chips from the other board and the tilt error went away! I had anew problem, it would accept the coins and release the pull arm and and spin the reels but they never would stop so Proten advised me to check the kicker switch and it turned out to be bad, so I robbed the one from the reset key area of the same machine and swapped it out and now everything works: accepts coins, allows me to play a game, reels stop as they should, pays out correctly and cashes out correctly. According to this machine, all payouts go to the credit meter but my credit meter is dead, not showing any numbers in the window at all plus I have no sounds either (this game has a sound board in the top box that a ribbon cable from the I/O board plugs into and from there it plugs into another small circuit board in the top box (the credit meter ribbon cable plugs into this same small circuit board as well. Well I did find that on my 3 way ribbon cable that goes from the I/O board to the sound board that 2 of the pins on the end that plugs into the small daughter board on the I/O board were broken off, so that may be why I am not getting any sound. I will check with Barry to see if he has any of those ribbon cables with the 3 16 pin connectors. Anyone know what I may check to get my credit meter working?

Hope that was not too much info, thanks again guys for the help on this machine and karma going out to you.