Bally 1114 help needed

[BigBally]

Hi to all:  Thanks for your help in getting my slot identified.  It is a quarter slot 1114.  I've read in many posts members have asked for a manual for their own slot.  Without a manual I have no way to get any answers to my problems without asking you members.  I got the machine to work BUT it doesn't pay ANY WINNING AMOUNTS.  The jackpot is 300 QUARTERS and I have placed about 400 quarters in the hopper.  When I cleaned the slot I found one wire underneath the hopper that was unattached.  Maybe that ONE wire is preventing the payout but the hopper might be sticking.  Can I get it to manually? I can turn it backwards and forwards but by just a half inch because it is locked.  Is that normal?  Is there a latch or lever I can hold up or down which would allow free movement?  Could the one wire that is unattached be the reason the hopper will not move for a payout?  After I pull down on the arm, after placing quarters in the coin drop, when the arm returns to the upright position and the reels finish moving I hear a click.
There is a gray box or long plastic switch which is on the inside top left corner of the door of the slot.  While everything on the inside of the door is flush this piece sticks out about 3 or 4 inches.  It has 4 contacts (wires) that go into each corner of the box.  The bottom right hand corner of the box is cracked.  I think that contact or wire is NOT attached to the inside of the box.  I believe this is why I have NO lights.  It looks to me that the wires coming out of that box control at least three of the lights on the front of the door one which when lit says "Coin Accepted".  Could this be the reason I don't get a payout because the Coin Accepted light is NOT working?  If anyone read my earlier posts there is a card on the front of the slot which warns that it is the responsibility of the player to make sure each coin dropped gets the coin accepted light to come on.
Does anyone know or can guess why the plate with the Serial Number would have been taken off the machine?
Is there ANYWHERE ELSE ON THE MACHINE the serial number would be placed?

Does anyone know if I can still buy the light assembly and switch that goes on top of the machine?  Would it be wired into the Push Button For Service button?

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!

[OldReno]

Ok.
Please try to keep your posts on this one machine on one post, otherwise we'll be jumping all around looking for other comments. This here is your home base for this project.
Since you can upload pics now, be aware that they are worth 1000 words, so try to pop them up with your comments.  It would be a big help.  Also, when you say there is a wire loose, give us what color wire it is. Where does it seem to go?  Is it cut, or capped or have a terminal attached.
So anyway, one bally manual is IMHO the same as any other.  The only real difference is in the wiring diagram or schematic to that particular machine.  That is where the difference is, the mechanics of it is basically all the same.
You might have a latch on your hopper motor that allows it to turn, or not turn. It should be a little thin bar of metal, and if you push it in toward the motor, that should free up your hopper disc to turn.
I appreciate your long and concise post, but without pics, I'm at a loss, although some others here may know what you're talking about. Also, when you posts pics, it contributes to the general knowledge base here, and others will eventually rely on them perhaps.
So, that said, am ready to help so go ahead and try to contact a seller here who has a basic basic bally manual, and also your schematic for the 1114. Perhaps there is one uploaded somewhere here on this site????????   Anyone???
No, I'm not chiding you.  The more precise and informative you are, the better it will be for your helpers -- us.
You are the Sherlock Holmes here, and we are the Dr. Watsons who can sometimes give you suggestions.

Do some reading on old posts here, too, to help you learn the machine and terminology.

Look forward to helping.

[CVslots]

Found 2 EM manuals available in the NLG File System Downloads section at the top right of the page here (it's one of the Blue buttons at the top of the forum). Here is a link to get there...

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;cat=97

[BigBally]

Thanks for the advice.  Here are the pictures! Notice door switch and loose wires.

[BigBally]

More pictures on the way.

[BigBally]

Thanks for the manual downloads. Here are more pictures.

[BigBally]

Bally 1114 extra pictures. The hopper wiring.  I believe the unattached wire comes from the BLUE solenoid but to where it goes I don't know.

[BigBally]

Until asked for additional pictures these are the last two.  These are of the hopper which doesn't move one way or the other more than just a tiny bit.  THANKS, EVERYONE FOR THE ADVICE.

[OldReno]

Thank you CVS, my hero...
One of these I haven't read, looks good.
Great find, and nice of you to share.

[OldReno]

@BigBally, good pics.  Actually they are great pics.
You can remove that cover over the hopper coin out switch, I think it was put there just to stop cheaters.  Unless you know some cheaters.
You now have a link to the bally manual files as posted above, and you've given your Watsons some needed info.  All you need now is the 1114 schematic.
Anyone willing to upload schematics???? For entertainment purposes only....
Cool.

[BigBally]

MAY I ADD, THANK YOU FOR THE MANUALS.  I HOPE EVERYONE WILL JUMP RIGHT IN AND TELL ME WHAT LOOKS WRONG.  THE TWO DANGLING WIRES, SHOULD THEY BE CONNECTED OR LEFT ALONE?

[OldReno]

If it was me, I'd tape up the end of each of them so they don't short out to anything,  I wouldn't connect them until I knew what they were and where they're from.  Try to trace them back to see where they go.  Also, one of your previous posts you mentioned a blue solenoid on the hopper.  I think that is a capacitor, and you don't want to be using any jumpers on that.  Boom. Be careful with them, they will hold a charge, and if you over-volt them they may pop...no they will pop.

[BigBally]

Hi to all:  I haven't heard from any the Dr Watsons out there except OldReno.  Has anyone come up with any solutions to the problem of Non Payouts when there is a winning combination?  What cover over the hopper coin payout switch and in which picture do you see it?  Is this cover preventing the payouts and if so, how is it removed?  With the two disconnected wires nothing has changed with the addition of tape to cover them.  The only disconnected wire I imagine is the one from the BLUE CAPACITOR.  Please continue to throw any advice or help my way.  Thanks to all.
BigBally

[mark the spark]

not sure if been covered but it looks as though the payout board has not reset to zero or is that just my poor eyesight

[OldReno]

Good eye, Mark, the payboard looks to be setting at 20 coins paid out. Yes.

[BigBally]

Hi:  How do I RESET the payboard and where is it?  I know you guys have been looking at it from the pictures I posted.  Which picture is it?  If the setting is 20 coins paid out why didn't it pay 20 coins?  Remember, I have hit a few winners when playing but have NOT received any payouts.  Is it because of the cover on the coin hopper?  If so, again, which picture shows this cover?  Let me know so I can remove the cover and reset the payout to zero.  Speaking of payout board, is this just a way to keep track of the payouts the machine has given or is payout a way to LIMIT the actual amount of winnings paid by the machine?  If someone hits 777 on 3 quarters does this PAYOUT BOARD LIMIT the actual coins dropped as payout or does it merely keep track of the winning payouts?  What purpose does this board serve?  Thanks to all for any help.  BigBally

[mark the spark]

the machine looks stuck on a 20 payout it wont pay anymore untill  its reset.
bottom right corner is the payout board there is a coil at the bottom (think thats it with what looks like washers on the end) it nedds to be pushed in then you will hear/see the board reset itself
this board controls and counts the payouts try and reset this coil plug everything back in and see what happens

[OldReno]

The payboard is usually attached to the hopper, but in your case it is in the back right hand side. Read this link, and it may help you figure out how to reset the board.  You can pull it out by removing the mount screws that hold it in place, and then check it out.
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=19448.0
Also you can check whichever of these may help...http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=23910.0

[OldReno]

Mark, the solenoid with the washers should be the step up, and the other one is the reset.  Other than that, you're right on. Good call, eagle eye!!!

[BigBally]

I removed the cover over the hopper.  I pushed in the solenoid with the washers.  I heard a click.  I put everything back in the machine.  I played for about 20 minutes and hit a winner: 3 Oranges.  That combination pays 60 coins when 3 are played.  I played three and got NOTHING!  Now what?  "The other one is the reset".  Where is the other solenoid?  Do I have to remove the payboard to get to it?

 In the links that have been sent to me I read the hopper has to move freely.  I loaded it with coins but even before I put any quarters into the hopper it did not move freely.  It is loose enough but will not travel farther than the small pegs between each quarter.  It is locked. I can't get it to turn freely or more than the quarter of an inch that it moves now.

The manual download which was sent to me in an earlier post is for the NEWER versions of this slot.  At least, in my opinion, much of what is suggested in the manual can't be done on my slot since it doesn't have the features and switches this manual is covering.  I did read through it.  That is why I am asking for help from you.

Thanks to all.  Keep the suggestions coming, please.   BigBally

[mark the spark]

that board bottom right corner is your payout board if you look at the fingers on it there at lets say 2 oclock they need to be at 6 oclock on that board assembly there is another solenoid you need to get at this and push it manually to reset to zero
you might have to loosen the assembley to do this

[OldReno]

Hi,
Your picture #CIMG2034 shows the payboard.Attached to the green spiral are your wiper fingers.  The photo shows the fingers setting at about position 4:00 (call it 4:20...?). When those fingers reset to 6:00, then the board is reset to zero.  That is supposed to happen every time you have a pay and then pull the handle. 
So, power down the machine, and remove the 2 or 3 phillips screws that hold in the payboard assembly, unplug it, pull it out, and play with it. You will learn how it works easily when you see it.
Then compare it to the pictures at this link. http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=19448.0
It should look very similar to what you have.
Your payboard is not resetting.  The fingers can't get back to zero, so it thinks it already paid.
Now try a jackpot pay, and let us know if it pays anything at all.
Keep on...
Note you can set up pays by pulling the handle and holding the fan and putting wins on centerline.  then release fan.

[BigBally]

Latest update:  Took the advice of the forum.  Reset the payout board and removed coin hopper cover.  NEW PROBLEMS HAVE RESULTED FROM THESE ACTIONS:

The FIRST coin dropped is NEVER accepted.  The very next coin will almost always be accepted and then the second.  The third coin sometimes is immediately accepted but generally it is NOT.  After trying to place the third coin for play with 8,9,10 or 11 quarters I give up and pull the arm down for a spin.  After each spin there is NOW A LOUD HUM.  After the first coin is dropped but NEVER ACCEPTED the hum disappears.  The slot then accepts the next coin and so on.  While difficult it does accept the third coin.

After a short time I had my FIRST PAYOUT!!  I won 4 quarters.  After 20 minutes I hit 3 BLUE FRUIT with 3 coins which is a PAYOUT of 60 coins.  The slot spit out ONLY 20 coins.  NOW IT WILL NOT ACCEPT A SINGLE COIN AND THIS IS AFTER DROPPING TWO ROLLS OF QUARTERS INTO THE MACHINE.  THERE IS NO MORE LOUD HUM SINCE THE PAYOUT.

What is my next course of action?  Someone, in an earlier post saw that the payout was limited to 20.  How did they know this and how can I correct it to pay what it should pay?  Are those slugs on one of the solenoids I had to push to reset the payout connected in any way to the limit of 20 coins paid?

Remember, if you trace through all of the posts on this slot you will run across my description of a broken switch box (?) that is inside the door on the upper left hand side.  It has 4 wires with connectors going into it.  The left bottom part of this gray box is cracked and the wires are loose.  I think this is why I have NO COIN ACCEPTED light nor do I have any readout when I win.  I mention this because MAYBE the loud hum, the first coin not being accepted is due to the damaged switch box?

Thanks to everyone for getting me this far.  My first big payout was exciting but it wasn't what it should have been.  Help me get rid of this LIMIT of 20 coins!  And let me be able to put coins in the slot again!

BigBally

[OldReno]

I'd suggest first action is to find that hum.  Look and see where it's coming from.
You may have multiple problems, but that's why we're here.  Fix them one by one.
You might want to also worry about coin handling until later on.  Just open the door and push down the coin in switch how ever many times you want for coins in.  Also remember you can set up the pays instead of playing it until it hits.  BTW, is that cracked grey box attached to the door hinge???  It might be some kind of door open switch, that you may have to close with a matchbook or something to play it with door open...?

[mark the spark]

couple of points first as i have no experience of 3 coin machines these points are aimed at old reno
the grey box top left is actually a win meter if you look at the photo of the machine front it shows in the top right corner door open view = top left
what purpose would this serve?
how does it register 3 coins played ?
how does it work out the payouts for 1 2 and 3 coins? im sure these points have been covered in other posts but it might be useful to post again on here