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| | |-+  Sure do need some help on my Bally Pro slot		 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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Author Topic: Sure do need some help on my Bally Pro slot  (Read 6375 times)
ucanwin
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« on: December 27, 2011, 04:48:24 PM »
Happy Hollidays to ALL! wave
I have a 2 coin Bally Pro slot called California Dreamin'
Now......here's my problem. My battery went dead. I tried to unsolder the battery from the board. The small ring that the solder adheres to, came off of the board. Now........... I cannot see a trace on either side of the board that I can run a jumper to.  Scratch Head I do not have a schematic to see where the negative terminal of the battery can be bridged to. Can anybody help me out here??????  Help Help Help
The following is all of the info that I can find on the board to identify it:
1990, 1991, 1992, 1993 Bally Gaming
AS-3356-229 Rev. A
SMI 7017 EL CONG. SO. 54853 09-23-09 Bally
P-9018-201
M-2045-201

* MVC-914S.jpg (77.37 KB, 640x480 - viewed 267 times.)
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lindam1
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« Reply #1 on: December 27, 2011, 06:48:01 PM »
I could be wrong, but I think that the board is a two sided board and the foil you're looking for is on the bottom.
Lindsay
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ucanwin
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« Reply #2 on: December 27, 2011, 09:03:48 PM »
Hi Lindsay,
Thank you for your reply. Yes, the little ring WAS on the bottom side of the board..........................until I tried to unsolder the battery. The ring came off, and for the life of me.............I can't see a trace on either side of the board, even with a magnifying glass. I have another like board, but I don't see a trace line on either side of that board either. I know, there has to be one, but where does it go TO????????????? I tried to use a jumper to R28, and did the ram clear. The reels indexed, but none of the digital below the reels would light up. The insert coin light did not come on. So, I guess I messed up, and I disconnected my jumper. Next????
I guess by now..............you know, that I am not an electronic wizard, huh?
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lindam1
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« Reply #3 on: December 27, 2011, 10:18:17 PM »
From what you have said, it appears that your issue is with the Neg. end of the Batt. as you can plainly see the pos end foil on the bottom. you can mount your Batt. and solder the pos end and run the Neg. to tp6 in the bottom corner by the batt. as this a gnd. This an S6000 board... Yes??
Lindsay
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ucanwin
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« Reply #4 on: December 27, 2011, 11:02:19 PM »
Hi Lindsay,
I believe it is an S6000 board. The model # on the side of the machine reads as follows: S62M3CT-00.
The tp6 on the board is almost 6 inches away from the battery on my board. See picture.

* Bally-2.jpg (102.42 KB, 640x480 - viewed 247 times.)

* Bally-1.jpg (140.72 KB, 640x480 - viewed 243 times.)
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lindam1
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« Reply #5 on: December 27, 2011, 11:08:00 PM »
Your board is NOT an s6000....but if tp6 says GND it is still a ground or neg for the batt.
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lindam1
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« Reply #6 on: December 27, 2011, 11:15:28 PM »
Your board is a 5500
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coorslight115
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« Reply #7 on: December 28, 2011, 12:40:32 AM »
I can repair that board for you  applause applause

You have a PM
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FORDSBS
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« Reply #8 on: December 28, 2011, 12:47:45 AM »
If anyone can fix it Coors can. He repaired a board for me.
Ford
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coorslight115
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« Reply #9 on: December 28, 2011, 01:09:12 AM »
Quote from: FORDSBS on December 28, 2011, 12:47:45 AM
If anyone can fix it Coors can. He repaired a board for me.
Ford

Thanks Ford !

"Word of Mouth"  is always a good thing !!

And to all that are wondering....I told him to pay shipping both ways and the cost of a sixpack  chug Frosty Beer Frosty Beer  Need my tools !!!
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ucanwin
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« Reply #10 on: December 28, 2011, 03:13:59 AM »
Thanks, to all that have responed to my plea for help. Lindsay put me on the right track. Although the bridge to tp6 wasn't the answer, I at least got an idea where it had to go. I ran a jumper to tp21 grd. and my machine is up and running again. Thanks again, for all of your input and offer to repair my board.
Best regards,
Jerry
Happy New Year to all of you!  Hail Hail applause applause wave
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FORDSBS
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« Reply #11 on: December 28, 2011, 11:03:47 AM »
One thing I didn't mention was that the board Coors repaired for me was a 3 layer board
& it was the middle layer I fried.
That was a year ago & it's still working. Clap Clap
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lindam1
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« Reply #12 on: December 28, 2011, 11:40:41 AM »
Thanks for the kudos, I thought you had a 6000 board and tp6 was the closest ground on that board.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #13 on: December 28, 2011, 01:49:57 PM »
Kudos + to everybody on this thread for helping out a buddy!!  applause Clap
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Jim
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« Reply #14 on: December 28, 2011, 01:50:54 PM »
Bally boards are very sensitive to soldering iron heat. if you let the iron on the pad very long, it will do exactly what happened to you.

since Bally pro machines require battery replacement every 1-2 years  I recommend installing a battery holder on the board.  then when the battery goes out, just pop a new one in.  I get them from Mouser Electronics, cost  is .77 cents.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Eagle-Plastic-Devices/12BH1-2AA-2P-GR/?qs=vFIbPToLYxJ1e%2fuPxTMQNg%3d%3d

Jim
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MIDWEST SLOTS   Selling Quality Slot Machines since 1995.  We service and repair all types of slot machines. Mills, Jennings, Bally EM, 1000/2000 series, Proslot, 6000. IGT  M, M+ ,S,  S+, S-2000,  I-Game,  Universal,  Video Poker, Sigma.
lindam1
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« Reply #15 on: December 28, 2011, 01:55:29 PM »
Jim has the best idea of all. Clap
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