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Author Topic: Solder Flux  (Read 14058 times)
jbshocks
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« on: January 05, 2012, 09:16:35 PM »

What readily available solder flux do you guys like for rework?
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poppo
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« Reply #1 on: January 05, 2012, 09:32:18 PM »

I like the 'paste' type. Got mine at Radio Shack a few years ago.
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tjkeller
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« Reply #2 on: January 05, 2012, 10:57:26 PM »

I use Liquid Solder-Flux from GC Electronics

GC Electronics Catalog PDF

Search for FLUX or Part #10-4202

Available on Amazon.com
« Last Edit: January 05, 2012, 11:04:45 PM by tjkeller » Logged

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poppo
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« Reply #3 on: January 05, 2012, 11:02:26 PM »

The reason I don't like the liquid is that you need really to use a dispenser to apply it. Sometimes that is difficult if you have your hands full. I like the paste because you can just dip the part, the solder, or the iron in it. But it's just a personal preference. Any decent flux will work fine. Except when using that censored lead free crap.
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« Reply #4 on: January 05, 2012, 11:20:51 PM »

Paste, Paste, and only Paste for over 35 yrs. It's too easy. dip and solder. AND solder wick for removing old solder, and a good Weller 60 watt soldering pencil type iron
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Buzz
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« Reply #5 on: January 05, 2012, 11:55:29 PM »

Paste  Any Lowes, or Homedepot   Plumbing Department
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jbshocks
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« Reply #6 on: January 06, 2012, 12:10:11 AM »

thanks guys.  I was going to buy some of the fancy stuff but it sounds like it isn't really needed.
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channelmaniac
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« Reply #7 on: January 06, 2012, 12:15:03 AM »

Paste  Any Lowes, or Homedepot   Plumbing Department

BE CAREFUL!!!

You MUST make sure that you aren't using a corrosive paste!

+1 on the liquid GC flux. That's what I use for all my rework.
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poppo
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« Reply #8 on: January 06, 2012, 12:26:43 AM »

BE CAREFUL!!!

You MUST make sure that you aren't using a corrosive paste!

+1 What he said.
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PWRSTROKE
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« Reply #9 on: January 06, 2012, 12:38:47 AM »

I agree.  It's a personal preferance and depending on application they both have their +/-.   Next someone will want to talk about SURFACE mount componets!!!. --B.  I do prefer paste on most applications--Most, there are some exceptions.
Paste, Paste, and only Paste for over 35 yrs. It's too easy. dip and solder. AND solder wick for removing old solder, and a good Weller 60 watt soldering pencil type iron
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cowboygames
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« Reply #10 on: January 06, 2012, 01:31:50 AM »

Why do you guys bother with flux? For the last 15+ years I've just used a 60 40 rosin core solder and haven't had any problems. Thousands upon thousands of solder connections over those years. Just curious Scratch Head
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« Reply #11 on: January 06, 2012, 01:38:43 AM »

I think it's Because in the days of surface mount the caps, diodes and resisters and the like were many times dirty or oily from handling, and rather than scrape the leads clean us OLD guys just dipped and soldered.......old habits die hard.
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cowboygames
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« Reply #12 on: January 06, 2012, 01:46:11 AM »

LOL, old guys, I don't think so. I see your point though, when working on some of the radio and tv stuff from the 70s and before it was a little tougher to get it to stick occassionally. After all, the purpose of the rosin core solder was to eliminate the need for a separate flux
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #13 on: January 06, 2012, 01:57:18 AM »

I'm with cowboy on the 60/40 rosin core solder but I still "waste"  paste... rotflmao
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slot monkey
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« Reply #14 on: January 06, 2012, 02:39:02 AM »

Paste  Any Lowes, or Homedepot   Plumbing Department

BE CAREFUL!!!

You MUST make sure that you aren't using a corrosive paste!


How do you know if a soldering paste is corrosive?

Is it labeled or some sort of test that determines that it is corrosive?

thanks
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #15 on: January 06, 2012, 02:57:16 AM »

How do you know if a soldering paste is corrosive?
thanks


It burns your tongue really bad... Crazy just kidding!

It should that skeleton hand on the can I would imagine?  Scratch Head


* corrosive.jpeg (6.76 KB, 233x217 - viewed 572 times.)
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channelmaniac
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« Reply #16 on: January 06, 2012, 03:00:42 AM »

It should be labeled acid flux or rosin flux. ONLY use the rosin flux or the no-clean electronics type flux.

I use the GC liquid rosin flux for all my surface mount reflow needs.
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Buzz
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« Reply #17 on: January 06, 2012, 03:41:23 AM »

I have 3 containers of soldering flux, 3 different brands. Not one of them have the words acid or rosin on them. Ruby Chemical calls theirs Soldering Paste, Lenox  Genaral Purpose Soldering Paste Flux, and Kokorode is Regular Paste Flux.
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poppo
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« Reply #18 on: January 06, 2012, 09:49:38 AM »

Why do you guys bother with flux? For the last 15+ years I've just used a 60 40 rosin core solder and haven't had any problems. Thousands upon thousands of solder connections over those years. Just curious Scratch Head

Because it makes soldering a lot eaiser. Plus there is less chance of doing damage from overheating the component as the flux will make the solder flow so much better. And of course because it just makes a better solder connection. 'Back in the day' I was NASA certified for soldering and we were required to use flux. 
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slot monkey
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« Reply #19 on: January 06, 2012, 12:37:41 PM »

How do you know if a soldering paste is corrosive?
thanks


It burns your tongue really bad... Crazy just kidding!


Too late!



* tongue.jpg (9.3 KB, 88x78 - viewed 433 times.)
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fromme
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« Reply #20 on: October 10, 2012, 02:17:10 PM »

Why do you guys bother with flux? For the last 15+ years I've just used a 60 40 rosin core solder and haven't had any problems. Thousands upon thousands of solder connections over those years. Just curious Scratch Head

Because it makes soldering a lot eaiser. Plus there is less chance of doing damage from overheating the component as the flux will make the solder flow so much better. And of course because it just makes a better solder connection. 'Back in the day' I was NASA certified for soldering and we were required to use flux. 

IPC-610 says it has to be flux. Actually it depends what you are soldering, if you are repairing a slot then it is not important, if you are repairing F16 or doing something for NASA, it is important. Target class as per IPC610 is very hard to achieve with paste, and if your work does not comply, then the repaired item cannot be used in systems which are responsible for human lives.
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poppo
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« Reply #21 on: October 10, 2012, 05:27:38 PM »

Actually it depends what you are soldering, if you are repairing a slot then it is not important,......

Important can be subjective. A poor solder joint on a slot machine that then fails would be "important" to the owner. Too many times I've seen slots, pinball, and other types of things soldered where the person who did the repair must have believed "the bigger the blob, the better the job".  knockout
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nikstar
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« Reply #22 on: October 10, 2012, 05:40:34 PM »

Everything can be subjective. I never use paste cause the modern solders contains a small quantity of flux. For un-soldering and soldering I use only soldering wire.
I am in the same job for 15 years and I never found a dry solder at a component that I solder it before.
I have use paste 4-5 times the past 20 years.
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« Reply #23 on: October 10, 2012, 09:41:42 PM »

 Strange to believe in my profession where I use at least 1 to 2 lbs of solder a day soldering copper fittings that I always use a flux product . When I repair small wiring or electrical connections I still use a small wire solder and flux ?  The acid or rosin core solders are designed for small electrical jobs . Not for piping systems . As in any type of soldering the components to be joined must be clean and dry or failure is certain to happen. All residual flux or acid / rosin needs to cleaned of the project or corrosion will happen . Happy soldering .P.B.
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poppo
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« Reply #24 on: October 10, 2012, 10:13:46 PM »

The acid or rosin core solders are designed for small electrical jobs .

As noted earlier, one should never use acid core solder on electronics. no

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