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Author Topic: 1088 hopper relay help needed (FIXED)  (Read 14334 times)
tkrozleski
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« on: September 13, 2013, 01:11:12 PM »
I have bought my first EM. I have most expierence with "E" series. A hopper relay was chopped out. I do not know  what this relay is referred as ? There is no payout.  I  have downloaded the NLG EM  manual and it shows up to 900 series EM's. I could use help to as what relay this is called and what all parts are needed and where the wires connect to on the relay.


* em hopper.jpg (77.91 KB, 400x300 - viewed 483 times.)

* em hopper2.jpg (96.63 KB, 400x300 - viewed 446 times.)
« Last Edit: October 14, 2013, 11:42:34 PM by tkrozleski » Logged
tkrozleski
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« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2013, 01:15:15 PM »
I looking for a wiring diagram for a 1088.

* slot-1.jpg (226.79 KB, 768x1024 - viewed 491 times.)

* slot-3.jpg (252.64 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 528 times.)
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tkrozleski
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« Reply #2 on: September 13, 2013, 01:20:38 PM »
more

* em slot.jpg (139.33 KB, 400x300 - viewed 528 times.)

* em slot2.jpg (115.15 KB, 400x300 - viewed 568 times.)
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tkrozleski
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« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2013, 01:23:10 PM »
I copied this pic from another post in this forum.  Is this the relay that should be on my hopper?

* Hopper runs without this relay.jpg (1149.55 KB, 2400x1594 - viewed 545 times.)
« Last Edit: September 13, 2013, 04:02:22 PM by tkrozleski » Logged
tkrozleski
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« Reply #4 on: September 13, 2013, 01:26:41 PM »
If so , is there a diode, resistor, and capacitor needed to connect to the coil on the relay?
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OldReno
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« Reply #5 on: September 13, 2013, 03:59:04 PM »
That spot on the hopper is where your delay relay goes.  It is used to time out the safety timer motor (the red light that goes on when the hopper is empty behind the hopper).  It takes a diode, resistor, cap, and you need the little switch called the ratchet cam switch which rides on the 100 tooth plastic paygear more or less.
You can probably bypass all that by increasing the timeout of your safety timer to about a minute and a half or more....
There is 120V associated with this circuitry so use caution.
If your machine pays out ok, I wouldn't worry about it unless you are serious into restoration.  I would tape up all the wires so that they do not short out to anything..
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tkrozleski
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« Reply #6 on: September 13, 2013, 04:08:08 PM »
Quote from: OldReno on September 13, 2013, 03:59:04 PM
That spot on the hopper is where your delay relay goes.  It is used to time out the safety timer motor (the red light that goes on when the hopper is empty behind the hopper).  It takes a diode, resistor, cap, and you need the little switch called the ratchet cam switch which rides on the 100 tooth plastic paygear more or less.
You can probably bypass all that by increasing the timeout of your safety timer to about a minute and a half or more....
There is 120V associated with this circuitry so use caution.
If your machine pays out ok, I wouldn't worry about it unless you are serious into restoration.  I would tape up all the wires so that they do not short out to anything..

Mine does not payout at all. This is what I would like to fix. Increasing the time on the timeout will do the trick to get it to payout?

I think this machine was changed to free play before i owned it. The handle release armature plate/latch was removed also and Barry is sending me the plate and spring to get that part fixed.

Thanks!

Tim
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OldReno
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« Reply #7 on: September 13, 2013, 04:46:11 PM »
If it does not pay out on anything, check your payboard and assembly to make sure that it is resetting back to zero, and also that all the little fingers on the payboard spiral cam are making contact with the board.
Next check your reel wipers to make sure they also contact, and are adjusted correctly.
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tkrozleski
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« Reply #8 on: September 13, 2013, 05:47:46 PM »
more of the hopper

* em hopper3.jpg (99.58 KB, 400x300 - viewed 496 times.)

* em hopper4.jpg (98.16 KB, 400x300 - viewed 506 times.)
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tkrozleski
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« Reply #9 on: September 13, 2013, 07:10:58 PM »
Here is the payout counter. I t has no zero switch and appears that never had one. No extra or cut wires in the harness.

* payout counter.jpg (114.11 KB, 400x300 - viewed 467 times.)

* payout counter2.jpg (95.59 KB, 400x300 - viewed 523 times.)
« Last Edit: September 13, 2013, 07:50:58 PM by tkrozleski » Logged
tkrozleski
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« Reply #10 on: September 13, 2013, 07:11:46 PM »
more

* payout counter3.jpg (114.38 KB, 400x300 - viewed 574 times.)

* payout counter4.jpg (116.55 KB, 400x300 - viewed 554 times.)
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tkrozleski
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« Reply #11 on: September 13, 2013, 07:12:40 PM »
more

* payout counter5.jpg (104.45 KB, 400x300 - viewed 556 times.)

* payout counter6.jpg (104.87 KB, 400x300 - viewed 491 times.)
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tkrozleski
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« Reply #12 on: September 13, 2013, 07:13:25 PM »
last

* payout counter7.jpg (110.25 KB, 400x300 - viewed 538 times.)

* lady luck.jpg (61.08 KB, 400x300 - viewed 506 times.)
« Last Edit: September 13, 2013, 07:51:33 PM by tkrozleski » Logged
Amachanic
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« Reply #13 on: September 14, 2013, 12:13:59 AM »
Tim... I finally got those two EM's up on stands tonight. Mine are both model 1090 machines. I took some pics of the payout counter and plugs.. The zero switch on mine has a Yellow wire and a orange w/Blk wire. I also took pics of the two plugs to show you where the wire go. The yellow wire is in the right plug, second wire down on left, and the orange/black wire is on the left plug, second wire down on the right..  I can try to get a pic or two of the hoppers relay and switch wires if you want?

Gary

* 2.JPG (612.42 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 444 times.)

* 3.JPG (497.63 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 432 times.)
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If it's jammed, force it... If it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway...
Amachanic
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« Reply #14 on: September 14, 2013, 12:17:10 AM »
Here are pics of the zero switch on the payout unit...

* 1a.JPG (748.37 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 461 times.)

* 4.JPG (850.24 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 530 times.)
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If it's jammed, force it... If it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway...
tkrozleski
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« Reply #15 on: September 14, 2013, 12:27:02 AM »
Thanks Gary much appreciated. Yes if you could post the relay pics and the wiring going to it that would be very helpful!

Tim
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Amachanic
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« Reply #16 on: September 14, 2013, 05:05:58 PM »
Tim.. Here are some pictures, it's hard to get a good shot of all the wires, hope this helps.. There is a diode on the back by the cap too..

Gary

* 16c.JPG (791.77 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 494 times.)

* 16b.JPG (520.08 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 451 times.)
« Last Edit: September 14, 2013, 05:11:13 PM by Amachanic » Logged
If it's jammed, force it... If it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway...
Amachanic
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« Reply #17 on: September 14, 2013, 05:07:33 PM »
few more..

* 16.JPG (661.02 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 567 times.)

* 14.JPG (673.96 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 500 times.)
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If it's jammed, force it... If it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway...
Amachanic
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« Reply #18 on: September 14, 2013, 05:09:17 PM »
two more...

* 11.JPG (632.13 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 498 times.)

* 12.JPG (653.9 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 497 times.)
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If it's jammed, force it... If it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway...
OldReno
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« Reply #19 on: September 14, 2013, 05:45:40 PM »
they may have run the zero switch through a set of switches at the top right of your photo called 'payoutcounter.jpg' in reply #9.  That would certainly work just as well as the original zero stop switch since that stack also changes state when the payboard resets....
Also, increasing the time out on the safety timer motor will not make the machine pay, so don't worry about that.
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tkrozleski
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« Reply #20 on: September 15, 2013, 12:09:22 AM »
Quote from: OldReno on September 14, 2013, 05:45:40 PM
they may have run the zero switch through a set of switches at the top right of your photo called 'payoutcounter.jpg' in reply #9.  That would certainly work just as well as the original zero stop switch since that stack also changes state when the payboard resets....
Also, increasing the time out on the safety timer motor will not make the machine pay, so don't worry about that.
Thanks guys for info and pics.

 I found the zero switch wires shrink tubed off an cable tied into the harness. I will get that hooked up and see what happens.

Installing the relay and the zero switch will get the payout function working, correct?

Gary the pics will help me get the relay parts. Thanks!
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Amachanic
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« Reply #21 on: September 15, 2013, 12:34:50 AM »
Glad to help Tim.  I'm in the middle of changing a broken 30 pin Beau plug on the hoppers cabinet plug of a Bally 809 I've had sitting around. Then when that's done I need to get that 1090 machine finished. Good luck with your EM dollar machine.

Gary
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If it's jammed, force it... If it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway...
tkrozleski
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« Reply #22 on: September 16, 2013, 10:50:43 PM »
Quote from: OldReno on September 14, 2013, 05:45:40 PM
they may have run the zero switch through a set of switches at the top right of your photo called 'payoutcounter.jpg' in reply #9.  That would certainly work just as well as the original zero stop switch since that stack also changes state when the payboard resets....
Also, increasing the time out on the safety timer motor will not make the machine pay, so don't worry about that.

Yes you are correct. The zero stop wires were moved to that stack of blade switches.

Now I just need to replace the time delay relay and see if I get a payout.
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tkrozleski
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« Reply #23 on: October 14, 2013, 11:16:46 PM »
Got the relay, diode, capacitor, resistor and wired in and it works great!

Karma to Gary for wiring pics, Thanks Gary!
« Last Edit: October 14, 2013, 11:35:27 PM by tkrozleski » Logged
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