Igt S2000 sound problem - humming and static

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StatFreak:
Here is some more discussion from another thread regarding machines with amps.

Re: IGT S2000 Newbie Questions
« Reply #40 on: January 16, 2008, 03:54:31 PM »
Quote from: idesign date=1200527671

If you do it [add the pot or resistor] after the amp you risk blowing the amp so be careful. Also if after the amp then each speaker needs a pot or resistor.

Re: IGT S2000 Newbie Questions
« Reply #41 on: January 16, 2008, 03:59:41 PM »
Quote from: DJH date=1200527981

Yep one for each speaker, now I have never blown an amp or heard of that until this thread? Are you saying that lowering the output to to speaker would cause it to blow? I would think it's one way? I can understand if you over drive your amp inbound (coming from the machine) but why output limiting? How does that dirve up the impedance unless you add speakers?

StatFreak:
Re: IGT S2000 Newbie Questions
« Reply #43 on: January 16, 2008, 04:14:54 PM »
Quote from: idesign date=1200528894

The amp is not that well designed to handle the additional load. It already has limiting resistors on the board by way of jumpers to match the impedance to the speakers. Adding resistors or pots messes up the match. I discovered that when you add them after the amp the components on the board are a lot hotter than than without them. All this heat will shorten the life of the components on the board. Do it at you own risk.

StatFreak:
Re: IGT S2000 Newbie Questions
« Reply #46 on: January 16, 2008, 07:28:42 PM »
Quote from: DJH date=1200540522

Just to note that a volume pot or VR is really the same thing as resistor in theory. The real question to solve would be does it make a difference if you resist the volume before it gets there or after. You can put the VR before the amp but balanacing would be an issue. Running hotter does not always mean that a failure would be sooner and or bad for the board. I still have not seen a blown AMP yet or heard of one. I like the VR becasue when I change games or themes or even boards I find that a static resistor value needs change.

Just my 2 cents

brian123dff:
I had the same problem with my S2000 and the sound humming from the LEFT speaker only, I followed IGT CN 3633 and it solved the problem!

Disclaimer: Good soldering skills with a sharp tip is a great help, delicate soldering of the MPU is required!

Please be advised the modification only requires to MPU P/N 75510502 Rev A and 75510504 Rev A. Raw boards 75510504 Rev B and 75510530 Rev C will not require this work. These changes have been incorporated into the artwork.

- Remove R26 on the backside of the MPU
- Lift pin 4 of U43 and clip close to the chip (tricky!)
- Hook up 24ga wire between U85 pin 5 and C70 pin 1
- Hook up 24ga wire between U85 pin 4 to C57 pin 1
- Hook up 24ga wire between C70 pin 1, J1 pin 18b
- Hook up 24ga wire between J1 pin 14a, C61 pin 2, and C70 pin 2
- Hook up 24ga wire between J4 pin 22a, J4 pin 22c, and J1 pin 14b

My machine has the multimedia board and also has amplified speakers, it worked on my machine. If your machine is anything different be cautious!

Bettor Slots:
I used the 47 Ohm Resistor modification as suggested with great success, but also along the way learned some things that I wanted to share that may be helpful. As part of this post I want to suggest the possibility that those that have made this modification may still not be receiving full or correct sound.

The Story:

I recently refurbished a total of (8) eight S-2000 machines. These machines did not all come from the same casino, in fact, 3 different casinos, as far north as Canada and as far south as Tunica. Most of these machines were standard games with Legacy sound that were not taking full advantage of the S2000’s sound capabilities.

I converted them all to games themes that made full use of the S2000's sound capabilities, like Tabasco, Wild Thing Black Leather, Cigar, Chainsaws & Toasters, Munster's, Phantom of the Opera, Genie, and Wild Thing Cigar. To each machine I added a MMlite Sound Expansion card and of course the required Sound Enhancement Simm.

And, exactly as reported in this thread above, each machine once powered back up had a whiny, humming noises coming from the top speakers. This was more than just annoying and really distracted from the games sound.

So, just like suggested, I added a 1/2 watt, 47 ohm, resistor, picked up at my local Radio Shack for only 20 cents apiece, to each of the top box speakers. Like magic the sound distortion was gone. I increased the sound volume to “7” and what a huge improvement…of course I was thrilled as I could now hear perfectly the stereo sound coming out of the top box speakers.

An Interesting Find:

You ever hear that saying “that some of the greatest inventions in our time came by total accident”?

Now by the time I got to my 5th machine, which happened to be a Chainsaws and Toasters, something different happened. After I made the modification in the top box and powered the machine back on, the sound from the bottom base speaker was extremely loud….thump, thump, thump…and completely over powered the higher tone sounds coming from the top box satellite speakers. Something was just not right here.

Odd…so the first thing I did was go back to the first 4 machines that I thought were “successful”, and put my ear down by the bass speaker. What I discovered was that no sound at all was coming from this speaker.

The second thing I did was PM one the posters above to this thread to see if they ever had this problem to any of their machines….the answer came back “nope”. While I waited for this response I went back and finished the 3 remaining machines. They all seemed perfect and no loud thump, thump sound coming from the base speaker. And, like the first 4 machines, when putting my ear down to the bass speaker, there was no sound coming from the bass speakers at all. So this was a real head scratcher at first. :103-

I went back to the Chainsaws and Toasters and decided to use some logic. If the top 2 speakers were receiving too amplified of a signal originally that needed to be resisted, then why would this not be true of the bass speaker as well? So what the heck, speaker wire is cheap, I clipped the bass speaker wire and added a resistor to it as well. See the first photo below of the resistor added to the white wire of the base speaker.

WOW, incredible results, as the sound now completely balanced out between the higher pitched tones coming from the top box and the bass tones coming from the bottom tray bass speaker. Now this is what IGT had intended us to hear…great stereo sound with a balanced blend of heart pounding thumps occasionally coming from the bass trays speaker!!! And this is proof positive that a resistor is needed on that wire as well.

AND, now I had to ask “why was I not getting this great sound from the other 7 machines”? Although the humming squeaky sounds were gone and the high pitched sounds from the top speakers were great, there was no great bass or any sound coming from the tray speakers on those machines….dang it!!

After some messing around and trying some different things I discovered that the bass speaker was not making a good or full connection on the 7 other machines. Study the second picture below. In my mind this is a poor design by IGT (no surprises here) in that after multiple removals and re-installations of the tray, the plastic Molex connection becomes bent and distorted. So even though it seems as though the tray is fully seated when you reinstall and close your machine, it is actually about a 1/8” higher than it should be….impossible to really notice this…but I really believe this is the case. 7 of the 8 machines just shopped, all from different casinos, all had this issue. It was just total luck that the Chainsaws machine was seating properly as intended which is why I received the true bass signal on that machine.

(continued next post)

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