just bought this nice progressive slot
DanDudeAmiga:
Hello...
I just bought this nice progressive slot from the antique show over the weekend. It rusted because it was left in a cold and wet environment. Surprisingly the electronics are working but not 100% yet. Most of the fluorescent tubes are working except at the reels and the instruction card above the coin slot. It also seems to be missing a few parts on the door. I already cleaned out the dried-up lubricant that unlocks the crank handle since it started to turn into glue. Still, I have a lot to clean including the reel stop solenoids that are sticking and the hopper that seized up. Fun.
My main concern is that I'm trying to clear this error code 1 message I see on the LED win meter display. I already replaced the dead lithium battery with a memory capacitor and it is holding a charge around 3.73 volts 12 hours after use. (I don't think it was a good idea to use a non-rechargeable battery in this setup since no diode was present to keep it from getting charged whoever soldered in one.) I tried reseating and swapping the memory chips and it came up something different on the LED display one time, but all other times, just a "1" appears whenever I close the door, hit the reset button or power down & up again. Once in a while it will display a "7" on the upper displays.
I was able to find individual tests such as solenoid/lamp test, basic switch test, reel sensor test, etc by pushing the test button a few times. I couldn't find the sound test or progressive jackpot display test. All fuses are good.
I've already downloaded a manual and schematics, but any help will be greatly appreciated. More images are available on request.
UPDATE: fixed a broken lead on the connector of the ribbon cable so the first digit of the 6-digit display is working again. Clear chip on the way, cleaned out the hopper since it seized up, but it keeps blowing the fuse. Instead of a 2000 series board, they used a 1000 series board installed. I will check for defective TRIAC's, resistors and capacitors shortly. I will have to order a couple of wheels since they are not moving freely like the other two under the platter. One of the two sets of jackpot arrow lights aren't working, but the continuity between the lead and the TRIAC on the input/output driver board is good. Live test shows that the output is active to the TRIAC. Will try swapping with another one on the board to see if the problem follows. Missing a "jackpot" bell and door buzzer. Will try to find those two somewhere. Any leads will be helpful. : )
UPDATE #2: After swapping the TRIAC on the I/O baord, the bulbs still did not work. I hacked a light bulb test to two test jumpers--one on the wire of the lamps behind the jackpot display and another to the end of the suspicious TRIAC on the I/O board. It lit during the test. I looked back at the sockets on the jackpot wall. They looked spread apart. I grabbed my scribe and pushed them closer together and re-inserted the bulbs. They work! I decided to visit my local hardware store and pick up a couple of fluorescent tubes and starters, one for the reels and another for the payout notice underneath the win meter display. I discovered on one side of the fixture above the reels the socket is broken. I temporarily used electrical tape to hold the tube's pin against the exposed copper plate. At first, it didn't light, but I replaced the starter. That didn't help. I wiggled the starter inside the socket and it lit the tube! Then, I replaced the F4T5 tube behind the payout notice decal and starter. It lit up automatically. Going back to the hopper board, I took a look at the schematics--several times. I'm thinking to myself that why in the world would they want to "short" the circuit to blow the fuse so they can disable the hopper if it malfunctioned? Couldn't they use a relay instead to interrupt the power to the hopper motor?! I'm seriously thinking of cutting the "s" wire to disconnect the disable circuit and later build my own hopper board. The previous owner put electrical tape over the entire "25¢" decal in front of the lamp under the reels. It is too short at the top and bottom so I split the electrical tape into two pieces and put them there. Looks nice now.
UPDATE #3: ARGH! So close! I got the E-series clear chip and it did the trick--or at least I thought at first. I put it in at P1 socket and turned it on. The LED display showed some numbers while a "5" is the first digit to come up. My progressive displays went bezerk showing and disappearing "7"s across two rows. The LED then shows a "6" and the progressive displays stop showing numbers. Next a "7" on the LED display and finally "o" while at a random location a "7" appears on the progressive displays. I turned it off, removed the clear chip, carefully returned the P1 ROM chip and turned it on. Within a fraction of a second, the the top arrows at the progressive displays light up and the LED display on the door is flashing "87" and " 0" on the left side while the rest of the displays are 0 with 2 dots in the center. The "2nd coin" lights are blinking and the tilt light is on. I tried hitting the test button at the hopper but no action from the machine. I tried hitting the key reset switch and same thing. I tried holding down the door-lock switch and push those two buttons again... nothing. Then, I hit the reset switch at the hopper. The LED display then shows "80 1%" with all 6 dots across the bottom and I tried again with the two switches, the progressive jackpot buttons at the bottom of the display and coin switch to see if the number changes. No luck. Then, I pressed the reset button. The LED display briefly displayed "70 .0.00" and back to " .. 1". The game is inoperable. ARGH! Is there more than one RAM chip besides the two backed by a battery that's causing this error?? According to the manual, it only supplied the 1000-series error codes. Are they they the same with the 2000 models? What is the difference between "normal" memory and "safe" memory? Do they reside in the battery-backup memory chips? I'm stumped. I'll try ordering a new set of 5101's and see what happens. Gotta love "nibble memory" chips. (1 nibble = 4 bits)
UPDATE #4: The TRIACs for the hopper board and I/O board came. I've decided to replace the suspicious TRIAC for the hopper motor. I also ran a coil resistance test on the motor itself and it measured 6.4 ohms. My hunch tells me that it may be finished. But, I pushed on. I replaced the fuse and turned on the machine. No issues so far. I ran the hopper test and the lights blinked in my room and the machine reset. Damn! So, it did not survive whatever hell it went through! The transformer is fine even though there's a lot of rust on it. Need a new hopper motor, too. Do they still make those? Is it similar to the Rowe dollar-bill changer machine?
DanDudeAmiga:
Photo with the added/replaced lighting.
DanDudeAmiga:
I discovered extra lighting under the 25ยข marquee box that uses 63 bulbs. That's something I normally don't carry and had to order them. As soon as they arrived I replaced these. They stay on all the time.
CVslots:
Those lights down by the coin tray are often overlooked or burnt out, but sure add a lot to the machine when they are lit!
DanDudeAmiga:
another photo...
This time it's the light tower. On the top row, the left side is the jackpot light the MPU board uses. On the right side is the Service/Change light that is switched on by the push-button switch on the left side of the door. They are both inside the white diffuser. At the bottom is the Door Open/Malfunction light. When the door is open, this bulb lights up. When the MPU detected a malfunction, this same light blinks in sync with the feature lights on the door. It uses the blue-green diffuser. The door open overrides the malfunction flash feature.
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