Nutt,Muddle& Sons australia

[mctuerk]

I bought an australian slot - sight unseen. ‚Not working, but complete.‘ i considered that must be em, because i knew that the manufacturer (nutt,muddle&sons) collapsed in the early 80‘s and so i thought it’s easy to repair. But i was wrong – that machine was microprocessor controlled and one board is in terrible condition. Looks like someone dashed the board with acid. Does somebody know something about nutt,muddle&sons or have technical documentation?

[fiddlefarter]

Which machine is it ? would it be the Jubilee MK12

http://images.google.com.au/images?gbv=2&hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-GB%3Aofficial&um=1&sa=1&q=jubilee+MK12+poker+machine&btnG=Search+images&aq=f&oq=&start=0

[mctuerk]

jubilee  yes  -  mk12 ???? the label on the mashine only has a serial# but no model#




rgds manfred

[mctuerk]

here is the label from the mpu box and my problem board with the game proms

[TZtech]

Sounds like something from Harry Potter 

Never heard about these guys before - Like reading about manufacturers histories so here is some info. http://www.dhub.org/object/377730,design+market

Sorry Manfred - Dont have any documentation but you can start by giving the board a good clean. Acid damage is usually caused by a battery that has leaked. Then check for any tracks that have been eaten away by acid and repair. If that does not work i would start replacing the IC's assuming you can still find them.
(What is your level of electronic expertise ?)

[stayouttadabunker]

I've never seen an MPU board with traces laid out like that...
very unusual for me to see!
Anyways, I'd at the very least, get rid of that old battery and
try to replace it with an new one.

[Op-Bell]

I've never seen an MPU board with traces laid out like that...

That's how PCBs used to be made before there were affordable computers with CAD programs. Huge corporations could afford a VAX or IBM to run a CAD program that cost twenty years' of a draftsman's salary, but most people did it by hand.

I've watched a lot of people do this, and done a little of it myself.

You sit down at a big drawing board with a sheet of squared paper and red and blue crayons, place your parts, then draw the connections with crayon - red for one side, blue for the other - usually twice full size. Then you would lay a sheet of clear mylar over the top and "tape it up" - literally. You laid down die-cut black masking tape footprints for component pins and holes in the board, then, armed with a number of rolls of very thin black masking tape, you ran tape along the crayon lines from point to point to form the tracks. That creates the characteristic curves, since it's all but impossible to lay it down straight. Then when you finished, you had to do it all again for the other side of the board, keeping perfect registration for the component holes. Finally you carefully rolled up your mylar and sent it off to the PC house, where it would be photographed at true scale on litho film with a humongous camera that took up a whole room, and the litho film used to make contact prints on the actual PCB material for etching. Given how laborious and expensive the process was, nobody bothered with solder mask and silk screen layers.

"An' you try and tell young people of today that, they won't believe you." (M. Python)

[Op-Bell]

There's nothing much wrong with that board - a little dust and corrosion is nothing. The only area that needs attention is around the battery. Get that old NiCd off and clean that corner of the board with water, detergent and a stiff brush so that you can see what needs fixing. Maybe one or two of the tracks are etched through, it's hard to tell, but it doesn't look like much. Tracks are easily repaired by someone good with a soldering iron. That NiCd is a 3 button-cell pack, 3.6V, replacements are available from electronic distributors.

[a69mopar]

When I was in electronics, we had sheets with adhesive trace stickers we would rub on the boards to cover the parts we didn't want etched, similar.

Thanks for the memories,
Wayne

[fiddlefarter]

jubilee  yes  -  mk12 ???? the label on the mashine only has a serial# but no model#


rgds manfred

G'day Manfred, we have one of these machines stored at the workshop, unfortunately it is not working, and we can't open it as it belongs to the big boss, it seems that all service information on these machines was stored in the brains of long dead technicians who will never be able to share info on the net. I agree that the board can easily be cleaned, I would buy a can of circuit board cleaner and get an OLD toothbrush and give it a gentle scrub. I would also check the main transistor which is mounted on the heatsink, I would check this before changing any of the chips.

Let us know how you went with the machine, consider updating your profile we are a friendly bunch and I haven't come across any members that bite yet.

Regards Sharron



ADMIN NOTE: Just moved reply out of quote box to make for easier reading. CH

[mctuerk]

thanks to all . i began to clean the board and changes all ic-sockets. but some parts are missing: i cannot find the 8 pin w11 relay (v23100 w1112-a104). also the colour code oft the resistors r25,26.... are unreadable and not one is left to meter it.

[tye3333]

hi mate, still need help ?

[mctuerk]

Yes, still need help – cleaned the board – new battery – new resistors (replaced the defective with 470ohm resistors??) my problem seems to be that W1112 miniature relay – i don’t understand what is to switch – why a relay with 2 changeovers?

[tye3333]

ok the problem i was having was that it would not boot, it would just sit beep. after about half hour it would boot and say "ram corrupted".  i though for so long it was a problem with the PCB but it was ALL the power supply.  first was the largest cap on the power supply PCB was goon but still looked good.  the other thing was that power supply has a 5v lock out, it will hold the reset on the main PCB high untill 5V settels.  the resistance was to high so it would not drop reset to low and to over come this i just joind pins 1 and 2. (plug pins) i'll try and get some pics up of the work i done if you need it.  if it come it with ram corrupted you need to turn the auld key once then push collect, resets the ram and away you go.