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I have an IGT Triple Diamond Haywire that was working fine in our gameroom but got turned off by someone for a couple of months I suspect but now will not start back up. After powering it up and it goes through the "memory check" it goes straight to "call attendant" Can someone help me clear this? I hope this doesn't mean it has memory loss or something of the sort.

You have to open the door to see some error or tilt messages

I have opened the machine with the power off but when I turn the power on it goes into alarm. I know NOTHING about these machines.

Is it an S+ or a 2000?

If it displays "CALL ATTENDANT" It most likely a S2000.

Power on with the Jackpot reset key (it is the double sided key you got with the machine) in the key switch on the right sid of machine and door open
as soon as you hear the alarm turn it.

1 Note the message - write it down so you can post them on here if these steps do not fix the tilts/errors with the machine
2 Turn key
3 Repeat these 3 steps a few times eventually you will get to a point the machine tell you to do the next 2 steps one at a time
4 Press the white switch for 2-3 seonds on the MPU it is near the LED's on the MPU (mounted on the left inside wall of the machine)
5 close the door

That's what I thought. Did you try turning the reset key when alarm goes off?

That and the alarm kind of give it away.  :96- :72- :72- :72-


 :238-  Miaduck  :88- 

 :211-

Turn on the machine and see if there are any tilt messages in the vfd (that's the blue thing). Let us know exactly what is displayed. Then close the door and repeat. That might give us enough to start with.


StatFreak :31-
:nlg-  Global Moderator


<ADD> Try Fordbs' suggestion as well.

Miaduck, the reset key is on the right outside of cabnet

I'm familiar with where the reset key is and where the white switch on the MPU are but haven't tried either of these because lie I metioned before I know nothing about them. I was told by someone that the reset key was for resetting anfter a jackpot only and could mess up the programming if used anytime other than a jackpot.

Reset is used for more then jackpot.

So turn the machine on, open the door and when the alarm sounds then turn the reset key and follow then directions listed above?

correct

Whoever TOLD you that is DEAD wrong.
Turning the Jackpot reset key, while the door is closed in game mode -
just puts you into the "Accounting Mode".
You cannot change any "programming" whatsoever by turning the reset key.
Basically, you can see all the records of the machine.

To get out of it,  just open and re-close the door & you'll be back in game mode :72-

However, pressing the little white test button and then hitting deck buttons
(without any knowledge of what the heck you're doing)
WILL change priory set programming.

it could be a battery issue....... my s2k gave me all sort of strange error codes constantly till i changed the battery

Okay, I went through all of the steps exactely as listed and made some headway. the reels did spin after I closed the door and then everything looked like it was playable except it says main battery low, call attendant. Now, where do I get the battery and how do I change it?

Check with vendors @ top of page or a place like radio shack should have them. You may as well get chips to set it up also.

Now would be an excellent time to use the NLG's "search" function
and type in the words like s2000 MPU battery" or something like that.
You'll get a bunch of pages referring to that subject that
has been discussed many times before here on NLG!  :89-

Basically, it's a little coin battery...I believe it's like 3-1/2 volts or so.
BR or CR something...    :103-

Here's link to some of that type of discussion >>>

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=215.msg1814#msg1814

a place like blue ridge slots should be able to fix you up with everything you need. He is @ top of page, give him a call.
After you get things together people on here can help you,


Bunker beat me. He has a good idea

Yes, that sounds like a good idea. Thanks everyone for the help.

As i went through I did note the messages:
1st reset: game eprom CRC mismatch -OxB000001
2nd reset: Non recoverable data error
3rd reset: some critical data will be lost
and then it prompted me to press the white switch and got me to where the machine will start up with the door closed now but it shows "main battery low call attendant"
It look like that was he problem and now will just need to get it replaced and hopefully be back in business.

You will have to set it up again. You should have a manual or maybe when you get that far someone will
send you the info. you need.
to do setup I use a 97 clear chip & a key 31 chip.

RAM CLEAR PROCEDURE FOR BASIC IGT S-2000 GAMES

Equipment: IGT S-2000 RAM Clear set contains IVC00097 & KEY00017 chips.

1. Power down game and remove CPU board.

2. Remove the STEPPER BASE chip U21 (SBXXXXXX) and install the IVC00097 clear chip.

3. Re-install the CPU board and power game up, once the clear is performed the top two Amber LED's will be lit, this could take up to approx. 20 seconds.

4. Power down the game and remove the IVC00097 clear chip and install the STEPPER BASE (SBXXXXXX) back into the U21 socket.

5. Power the game up, and clear the error codes. The first error will be RAM ERROR, to clear this turn the JP reset keyswitch. The next message shows "GAME EPROM CRC MISMATCH", again turn the JP reset keyswitch to clear. The next message shows "SOME CRITICAL DATA WILL BE LOST" again turn the JP reset keyswitch to clear. The next message shows the following directions "PRESS TEST BUTTON FOR 2-3 SECONDS" and then "PLEASE CLOSE DOOR"

6. Now the game will initialize and a second error code will appear" CALL ATTENDANT", open the door and the display will show a "EEPROM ERROR". Turn the JP reset keyswitch to clear the error. The next message shows " EEPROM CRC FAILURE" again turn the JP reset keyswitch to clear. The next message shows "SOME CRITICAL DATA WILL BE LOST" again turn the JP reset keyswitch to clear.

7. Now the game will initialize in game mode and the display will show "CALL ATTENDANT / MACHINE TYPE MISMATCH" this is normal and will only display this until the options have properly been set.

8. Now power the game down and remove the CPU.

9. Remove the STEPPER BASE chip U21 and replace will the KEY00017. Power up the game.

10. When the keychip is complete again the top two Amber LED's will be lit, this could take up to approximately 20 seconds.

11. Power down game and re-install the STEPPER BASE back in to U21.

12. Power game up and the display will show [ 7 KEY CHIP CONFIG ] Use the SPIN to enter into a menu, BET MAX to recede out of a menu, CHANGE and CASH OUT to select the value.

7 KEY CHIP CONFIG
7.1 KEY CHIP CONFIG I
7.2 KEY CHIP CONFIG II

Refer to Options Sheet
Once completed repeatedly press the BET MAX button to exit key chip menu and initial the game or close door.

13. Close the door the clear the "CALL ATTENDANT / MACHINE TYPE MISMATCH" error code.

14. Now you are ready to set the rest of options (to access the option, press the TEST button on the CPU)
   
« Last Edit: October 11, 2008, 12:16:11 PM by OhioGaming »   

There are some notes that are important as mileage will vary...

1) Key 17 was replaced with Key 31 and some of the newer stuff require it

2) After a clearing different steps are done for different OS versions and some don't require a Key chip to be used at all

a) OS less then SG00100 the steps outlined will work fine but you might not need to Key the machine after a clear to set the machine type (depends)
b) OS greater then SG00300 has a few extra steps

Example - SG00363 requires you to set the IPC / WAMM (set this to WAMM) but can't be done until after you Key the machine

3) Games with Multi-denom hardware have an even more complex setup (not in order)
a) you must set a % for each denom
b) you must set or assign a denom / button for each Square (1 - 4)

That is all that is on top of my head for now as I am sure there is a bunch of stuff I am forgetting

you can pick up the battery online at....... you need a CR2354 lithium cell battery

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2715660 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2715660)
 or contact any vendor on here would have it.....
 to replace it is easy it slides right out on your mpu board......make sure machine is off when you pull the mpu  board out......

why would he do a ram clear if hes changing the battery....... he might not need to....

STAZ,  Will he have to do a clear on it after?

you answered me

if you have a board like this the battery slides right in the top middle of the board.......

Every one beat me to the answer

Thats what I get for doing a game and top box change.

If you are my customer I will tell you to leave the key alone unless you are talking to someone who knows what the purpose of the key is for other than resetting a jackpot.

And the reason why is because  the curiosity gets the best of people and it leads to the bottom section of Stayouttabunker's comments. The thought occurs what happens if  the "RESET BUTTON" is pushed? BTW it is a self test switch. That leads to pushing buttons and turning the key and pushing more buttons. After that .. oh my machine still doesn't work  .. what do I do now.

Miaduck you did the right thing in seeking help first.

After replacing the battery .. follow the information about clearing the ram error codes as you did already. If the machine has a Multi Media II board installed for sound it may set the sounds back to legacy settings.

another thing to remember in pulling out the mpu board make sure your grounded these boards dont like static!!!!! static can fry the board..... and when reinstalling the board make sure its in tight......in my first board i had i was going through batteries every 2 weeks for some strange reason my first board kept draining my batteries......i put a new board in there and now it runs perfect...... so if you replace the battery and in a month you encounter the same error message again then you might have to replace the board......most likely you wont get another error......

Yes, the advice about using the reset switch ONLY for jackpot resets did come for the supplier who sold it to me.

So, if I replace the battery then I may get by with only performing the same reset that Foster had posted and I may not have to do the whole RAM Clear process?

yes odds are you wont have to do a full ram clear.......

That is good news.
Man, you guys are a great resource for the newbie. This is my first slot machine and had it over a year and this was my first problem. I just did a search on Yahoo with my machine and the problem and there was a link that got me to this forum. It's obvious that there is a huge amount of knowledge on this site.

Thanks all and I'll let y'all know how things turn out after the battery replacement.

your welcome maduck..... this site is great i was in your shoes a few years back...... i learned a ton of stuff through this site....all the guys on here are great......

No need to do a ram clear.
There is a EEPROM chip on the Backplane that stores essentially the same information the RAM does that once you replace the battery and go through the steps I posted will be loaded back into RAM (you might loose a little of the accounting/statistical data) but nothing you need to worry about)

Now it official - I didn't know what I was talking about when I said you might have to do a setup.   :279- :279-

OK, one last question before while I wait for my battery to arrive. How show I "make sure I'm grounded" Do I need to buy a static strap or something?

All you do is touch cabnet

Well, I was quite so lucky, when I pulled the board out I found that it has the type of battery that is soldered in. It looks like it has BR2880 or BR2330. I will have to check it again before I order. I did see some Panasonic batteries like this on eBay that had the clips on them for soldering. I have soldered on many electronic boards in past years so I feel comfortable with this small task. Now just to get a better look at the battery to verify that number.

Well, I was quite so lucky, when I pulled the board out I found that it has the type of battery that is soldered in. It looks like it has BR2880 or BR2330. I will have to check it again before I order. I did see some Panasonic batteries like this on eBay that had the clips on them for soldering. I have soldered on many electronic boards in past years so I feel comfortable with this small task. Now just to get a better look at the battery to verify that number. I posted some pics in the last post.

Since you have to do some soldering on the board you may want to consider soldering in a coin cell socket and using a standard coin cell battery.   Then when it goes dead next time you won't have to do any soldering.  Also, while you're in there I would remove that green varta rechargeable battery.  It isn't needed on your board and will eventually leak and damage it.   Here's a photo of a S2000 board with the socket/battery.  You can get the parts from mouser electronics, the battery part number is 658-CR2354 and the socket is 534-1027.  Last time I ordered them they were less than 2 bucks each. 

(http://)

 

It's a BR2330   But If you think about it, it takes a 3 volt battery   The part number doesn't mean a whole lot as long as you use a 3 volt replacement battery.

I might as well tell the whole story.  I have a S**t pot of 3.6 volt Lithum 1/2 AA battery's left from the S+ and Bally 5500 days. I am using them up on S 2000.  Oh I can hear the mod squad now, "the Ol Man is screwing up" " he's gonna burn something up " it hasn't happened yet."  A 3 volt in a IGT last approximately 10 years, a 3.6 volt should last 12 years. I'm preforming preventive maintenance by using the 3.6 battery's !! ( that's my story and I'm sticking to it )

Cliff I was slow typing so let me ask you a question, I know you like the battery holder, but why?  OK I'm not a total idiot, I know you can change a battery easier ( every 10 years with a holder) but the way I have it figured a battery that's soldered in will not lose electrical contact, I don't think you can say that can't happen with a holder. I'm pretty sure everyone of us has had a flashlight that we have had to beat the shit out of to get it to work, those battery's are in a holder !!

Buzz,

The CMOS RAM ICs on S2k 50X series board normally operate off of a 5V supply voltage and the data retention voltage specs are 2.0 to 5.5V.  You won't burn up anything with your 3.6V S+ battery installed as you've proven.

Do the normal solder type BR2330 batteries really last 10 years in S2K MPUs?  I know the 3.6V 1/2 AA's last somewhere near that on a S+, but didn't know how long they last in an S2K.  I normally just replace them with the higher capacity CR2354 and remove the green rechargeable battery at the same time.  The longest I've had one installed is just over 2 years now. 

I prefer the battery holder because it's easier to change in the future as you know, and it also reduces the chances of future MPU board damage from handling/soldering on the board.  You know, ESD, solder bridges, trace damage from overheating, etc.  It also make the battery a user replaceable item (at least in my mind) for the next owner who may not have soldering skills.  Socketed coin cell batteries are used in many consumer products, the CMOS memory backup in your PC and most garage door opener remotes are two that I can think of quickly.  I don't think poor electrical contact is an issue for them.   I understand the enhanced S2K boards (1270?) use the same replaceable CR2354 battery in a holder too. 

It really comes down to personal preferences like many things in life.  I find it satisfying to know that the next time one of my batteries go dead that I won't have to remove it from the tray and do any soldering to replace it.  That's my 2c anyhow.

i have a igt s2000 and need to change the battery also. i pulled the board and it has 2 batteries - one is a flat 3v watch battery and the other is a rounded 3.6v varta battery. do i need to change both batteries as my error is - "main battery low" they are both soldered in so how do i change them out and will i need the reset chips and where can i get the chips?

im sorry but i forgot to ask for the proper way to un solder the old batteries and how do i solder new ones in place? like what kind of solder? do i use flux or what? iv never soldered something so small!

I am very pleased to announce that just yesterday I was able to take the time out to replace the battery on my board and everything worked out fine. I also removed the green varta battery that Tilt recommended. I did notice that my machine no longer will sound off periodically when no one has played in a while. Is this something that may have been lost? It's not a big issue because everything else works fine and honestly, in my home it's better this way.

It appears that someone else has posted something on this thread and is needed the same type of advice. Hopefully they will read the entire thread and continue asking questions to get all pf them answered before trying anything else.

Thanks again everyone for all of the help.

If you decide you want it back, the attract mode settings are 3.2.6.2 and 3.2.6.3 in the menus.  There must be zero credits on the machine for the attact mode sounds to play -- they will never play if you leave one or more credits on the machine.

I do actually have credits on the machine so that is probably the reason that the attract mode sounds aren't working. Thanks, and I will certainly make a donation to the site as soon as I get to a computer to do so. I am currently working this from my phone.






Moderator: Fixed quote box. SF :31-