New Life Games Tech Forums

Thought I would add some Uni Ultra info.
Sometime in the early 1990's Universal must have realized their slot machine platform from the early 80's, modified several times, just wasn't going to cut it anymore. So they developed a new machine, the Ultra Series. It appears their thought process was the machine with the biggest, widest reels and booming stereo sound wins the player's attention. The earlier Universal had reel strips 1/8" narrower and 1-1/4" shorter than the IGT S+. The Ultra reel strips are 3-3/4" wide and the same length as the IGT. The reel glass is as large as the top glass at 12-3/4" tall. The belly glass is 9-1/4" tall, up from the 8" belly glass of the older Universals. The button deck was also enlarged.
All Ultra slots have backlit reels and stereo sound through two 8 ohm, 10 watt speakers. Universal developed the MPU using the same processor as their earlier games, the Z80. The sound program is located on a 27C256 eprom and there appears to be only one program. There is one "System" or machine chip that serves all games whether one-line, three-line, five-line, nudge, or respin*. (* have yet to find a respin game in the Ultra Series) The machine and "Game" chip are on a 27C512. I have found two versions of the machine chip, more on that later!
There is one more chip called the "Support" chip. I am guessing this chip is for communication to the DBV-145 and it is on a 27C128.
The only other external boards are a very small relay board for the handle, sound board, hopper board on the hopper, and the backplane board. Universal never had an external chip like IGT. 
I believe it cost them!!!  :30-
All the Ultra's I have seen have been manufactured in 1996. Games were released in 1995 and 1996 as their copywrites indicate. So the Ultra Series was short lived.
Why?
My guess is that the slot machine market was tough in the mid 1990's with WMS introducing the dotmation, IGT the S2000 and vision series, and all the video slots from Aristocrat, etc. And I believe the Ron Harris (Nevada Gaming Tech gone bad) confession in 1995 that he rigged Universal slot machines (older models) did them in.
Mr. Harris rigged Universals because;
1. They had the Z80 processor that was widely used and easily understood.
2. They had no external chip outside the MPU like IGT.
3. And most of all, all unwritten code was not driven to zero!!! What this means is the chip can be easily written to again!  :25-

The second version of the "Machine" chip I mentioned earlier has all unused code set to zero. So it would seem this was released after Mr. Harris confessed. Too little, too late!

I love to learn new things, Thanks for you post,  Do you have any pictures of these?

Thanks again,  :3-
Wayne

Listing of known Ultra Games;

An "a" or "b" denotes a clone game.

95010-  Wonder Bar   2 or 3-coin                                            
95016-  Double Marquise   2 or 3-coin
95018-  Twin Crowns    2 or 3-coin
95018a- Twin Cherries  2 or 3-coin
95019-  Triple Crowns  2 or 3-coin
95019a- Triple Cherries 2 or 3-coin
95020-  Title Match 2 or 3-coin, nudge on third reel
95020a- AfterShock 2 or 3-coin, nudge on third reel
95021-   Payload  3-coin, 2-coin?
95027-   Magnificent 7's 3-coin buy a pay
95033-   Super Jackpot 7's 3-line
95034-   Sterling 7's with 4th coin bonus   3-line
95034a- Jackpot 7's with 4th coin bonus   3-line
95034b- Cool 7's with 4th coin bonus       3-line
95038-   Double Lightening 5-line
95039-   Wild Orchid  3-coin buy a pay
95040-   Magic Doubles  2-coin nudge game   FOUND!! in 2011, thanks KEVBOY !!

96000- unknown game
96001- Hot Doubles 2, 3, or 5-coin
96004- Fiery Doubles 2, 3, or 5-coin
96009- Total Impact 2, 3, or 5-coin
96019- Bonus 7's  3-coin
96023-  Eagle Millions   3-line custom game for Soaring Eagle Casino
96025- Super Stars & Stripes 3-coin, 2-coin?

95037     -  Silver Bullet 7's
?     -  Eagle Magic  looks like clone of Double Gold-an old uni game, custom game for Soaring Eagle Casino

Bolded titles I am looking for!To keep it simple above, game chip identification is longer than stated, like      95040-2MR-0002.
95040 is the Magic Doubles game
2MR is a 2-coin multiplier game with a 2500 coin jackpot. (an "R" type game)
0002 designates it as a 97.4% chip from the table list. (my table list is incomplete)

Machine Chips
94033-19
94033-24

Sound Chip
95010-SND-0003

Support Chip
94014-005

A few pics, just a few;  :97-

I found a box of the orignal card reader bars as shipped by Universal with the full nameplate. Nice, no holes to cover!

I have few videos on YouTube. If you do a Universal Ultra search you will find them. Believe they were slant tops.



Videos have been removed

Please forgive me while I babble on about the Ultra Series, writing this for the Universal area.

If your reading this and own a Universal Ultra, please log on and share your machine with us!  :89-

Universal Ultra Memory Switch Table
You can access the Memory Switch Table by pressing the green test button 14 times.
There are two 8-bit pages. They are pages 0 and 1. Each page has eight binary bits listed as 0 thru 7.
After pressing the test button 14 times you will see a zero in the Coins Played Meter and Win Meter, and four zeros in the Credit Meter.
Coins Played Meter is the page number (0 or 1)
Win Meter is the bit number (0-7)
Credit Meter is the current bit setting (0000 or 1111)

To access a page (0 or 1), press the Bet One button.
To access a bit (0 thru 7), press the Spin button.
To change the bit setting (0000 or 1111), press the Max Bet button.

What they do;

Page 0
bit 0          Tower Light
0 = Tower light flashes for Jackpot, Call Attendant, and stays on for Door Open
1=  Tower light stays on for Jackpot, Call Attendant, and Door Open.

bit 1        Starting Speed for Max Bet
0 = Normal
1 = High                           Note: Normal is better!

bit 2       The Third Reel Reach Feature
0 = no feature
1 = feature on        (If you get two 7's or higher on first two reels, third reel spins longer with special sound) very nice

bit 3       Reel position Detect Error
0 = Disabled
1 = Enabled   (detects if reels were moved, gives errors 81-84) I've never messed with it

bit 4      1st - 5th Lite Lamps
0 = all lamps always on
1 = synchronizes with played lines

bit 5    Jackpot Tower Lamp
0 = activated for top jackpot hit (either flash or always on from bit 1)
1 = activated for all progressive hits

bit 6    Hit Sound mode
0 = synchronize with payout
1 = no synchronize with payout (Note: not as described, two different sounds for coin-in and payout, both are sync'd)

bit 7   Reel Stop Data
0 = Same as existing models
1 = Smooth type action   (smooth type action??, it shakes at every stop!!)


Page 1

bit 0        Reel Pre-move
0 = Normal Start
1 = Delayed start action when game starts (Now this is a strange one!  :103- Every 51 spins the reels reverse about 1/2 inch and then go forward as normal. I found the code in the game chip, and yes, every 51st spin???)

bit 1    Super Reach
0 = No change
1 = More reel speed reduction after normal reach feature (I have found this only on Super Jackpot 7's. Very cool feature! Special sound with the third reel in slo-mo. It is random and does not happen with every reach feature. Generated more often with wins than loses.)

bit 2   Random Nudge
0 = no action
1 = nudge action (This works on mixed bars or two mixed bars with wild/multiplier symbols only. And only on single line games, but not Twin Crowns or Twin Cherries.) Cool feature but do not know how it could be applied in a casino without major explanation?

Bits 3,4,5,6,7 on Page 2 not used.

If you clear the RAM, these settings are lost, must re-enter.

Good Old Universal

Over here we know them as the 8116, 8800,9400 and 9600. This was the first machine I got training on and  worked on when i started in the casino biz (Sun International - South Africa - 1998)
At that time they had almost 90% market share in the SA casino's and there are still plenty of the ultra's in SA. Very easy to fix and pretty reliable exept for the slantop. Removing the backplane board from that is a nightmare
and should have EPROM listings somewhere. Will try and locate them.
Have softcopy manuals for the Ultra -Drop me a line if anybody needs them.
Should have EPROM listings somewhere. Will try and locate them.

Regards
Ian

TZtech,
Eprom listings would be great!  :3- :3- :3-
Copious amounts of Karma if you find them.  :131- :131- :131-

I do not believe the 9600 ever made it to the United States. I have a partial browser based manual for the 9600 and looks like an upgrade of the 9400.
I have a soft copy manual for the Ultra, but it was faxed, by Universal, and the schematics are very difficult to read.
If you have legable schematics I'm interested!
Also have no info on progressive two-way communication.

Here is a manual pic of the 9600 Slant Top and manual page.

By the way, what is a Condor? Is that a brand of bill validator?

Hello Uniman

Better late than never. Have a look at this site. It lists all the universal games approved for the western cape province in South Africa.
http://www.wcgrb.co.za/Downloads/LOC/200904/Aruze-Software.pdf (http://www.wcgrb.co.za/Downloads/LOC/200904/Aruze-Software.pdf)

There are a bunch of Universals (Now Aruze) other product in there but it does have 95XX ,96xx,97xx and even 02xx listings. As far as i know the paytable chips are identical worldwide.
Also found a 8116 gamebook. As soon as i have scanned it i will post it.

PS - Condor is a make of programmable coin acceptor. The universals over here all use CBV bill validators.

Regards
Ian

FANTASTIC !!! :3- :3- :3- :3- :3- :3- :3- :3- :3- :3- :3- :3- :3- :3- :3-
It was worth the wait. Thank You!

All games listed as 95000's and 96000's I'm sure are Ultra Series. I see they made Double Jokers Wild, Phantom Spin, and Double Thunder in Ultra Series. Never seen one.  :8-
The hunt begins!!

 :131- :131- :131-            Thanks again! The copious amounts of Karma begin!     :131- :131- :131-

Uniman

Jim, is there a way to tell which listings are Unis, aside from the 95000 and 96000 values in the third column?

Hi SB

Anything with a hardware LOC of ZT0058 or ZT0057 is a Ultra. ZT0057 is the slantop and ZT0058 is the upright. There was also a model called the sunrise (ZT1900). Cant remember what the difference was to the ultra but the SW works across all 3 platforms.

Regards
Ian

Thanks Ian,
I notice only the Game or sometimes called the Personality chips are listed. Did they list the Machine or System chip associated with the games or the sound chip(s)? 

I know in the US the (Machine) System chip was 94024 for all games. And, all games I've found use the same sound chip.
What I find puzzling is there is a sound test for "respin sound", yet no sound is there?
I see Phantom Spin is one of the games listed and that game respins. Maybe you need that Game chip installed to hear that test? Or maybe a special sound chip?

From what I can tell, the Sunrise Slot is the Ultra with a newer version of Main PCB.

Hi

Yes - Each game has to be approved individually. If you go to the site www.wcgrb.co.za you can actually select what category of approval you are looking for. Under the Aruze tap there should be a system approvals selection which should give you a PDF of all the system chips.
There is also info for IGT, Aristocrat etc etc but please note these will be different from whats available in the states.

Regards
Ian

Is it worth getting  universal machine? I have a guy that is looking to sell a firey doubles machine that is ot working.

I assume this is an Ultra Series.
Depends on the price and what's wrong with it.
If you can get an IGT S+ for the same price, I would say get the IGT. (Can't believe I said that)
The reason is parts are very hard to find. The dollar bill validator cannot be upgraded to accept newer bills.
If the main board is bad, good luck finding another.

Now the good points; very rare machine, few were made. So you would be the only one I know who owns a Fiery Doubles. They are that rare. Stereo sound and big backlit reels are nice.
If the problem with the machine is constant error codes like hopper jam, reel error, etc, chances are the problem is the board making good contact with the backplane. This problem can lead you on a wild goose chase real quick.

Did you really just say that?!?!?

 :103-

Dan #2

I just bought a Universal slot machine, it's a Super Stars & Stripes, and I'm having an issue with it... It turns on, but it appears as though its calling for an attendant for repair. Its flashing a bunch of numbers that don't have any relation to the codes on the inside of the machine. The coin rejection solenoid keeps clicking back and forth and the light on top is flashing. None of the fuses are bad and none of the buttons on the inside are working. I was wondering if anybody knew what was going on? Thanks, I know this is an old topic, but still... The codes are as follows first it flashes a 1 and a 3 and then 0 and a 1, then 00 in the first spot and then a 1 in the third spot with a 0 in the fourth. Thanks in advance...

First of all, welcome to NLG pistachio62.  :88-
You mention "first spot" & "third spot" & "forth"??   Not sure what that means? There are the COINS PLAYED, LAST GAME, WIN METER, and CREDIT METER.
But it really sounds like you need to perform a RAM clear. It is a very simple procedure. Click this link; http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1295.0

Normally you should see codes 13 and 50 flashing when starting up the machine. Code 13 is "power interupt" and 50 is "door open".
After a RAM clear you should see codes 19 (All Clear) and 50. Close and lock the door and the 50 should go away and 51 will flash. Code 51 is "door closed".
The Insert Coin light should be flashing. When the Insert Coin light is flashing it should then accept coins.

Perform the RAM clear and let us know what happens.
Uniman

One more thing, your machine is an ULTRA SERIES, right? 

Thanks a ton, I did mean Coins played, last game, win meter, and credit meter, I just wasn't looking at the machine, and got lazy... Sorry... I'll Try this tomorrow and come back with the results, thanks again...

Sorry, I'm not quite sure how to tell if it is an ultra series, but i'm pretty sure it is...

Hey, no problem. Just want to make sure we are talking about the same thing.
If it is ULTRA SERIES it will say so in the upper lefthand corner of the reel glass.

Another common problem with the Ultra's is the main board not making good contact with the backplane. If after your RAM clear it is still acting up try gently rocking the board by pressing on the white pull tabs on the board. DO THIS WITH THE POWER OFF. Then power up again with a RAM clear.

One more thing, I've been having trouble logging on at various times. If I don't reply within about 36 hours you can email me. Click on my name to get my email address.

I'll Have to check tomorrow if it is an ultra series... Whats the difference if its not, I really think it is, but still what is the difference?

Totally different MPU board, reels, hoppers, etc. RAM clear is one button instead of three.
But I suspect yours is an Ultra, don't think they made SUPER Stars & Stripes until the Ultra came out.

I know it is an ultra, it has the same mother board as the picture that was on the reset Ram page... and will do on the e-mail deal... Sorry I didn't address that in the last message...

I have another question if thats okay... How much is a Universal machine thats in pretty good shape worth? Are they rare at all or whats the deal with them as far as pricing goes... I didn't pay that much for this one... Also are bill acceptors common in these machines?

Oh and thanks again.

Pistachio, can you show us a nice picture of it? Please, pretty please? :184- :183- :199-

I will, but tomorrow... I'm to lazy to take pictures now...

A slot machine is worth what someone is willing to pay for it.
The Ultra is rare in the U.S. So owning one is cool. But, parts are nearly impossible to find and the bill validator is not upgradeable. That hurts the value.
I think if this machine was designed and built by a U.S. manufacture it would be worth a little more.
Right now an upright Ultra in good working order sells for about $350 to $400. Also depends where your located.
All Ultra's came with a bill validator.

I've only seen one Super Stars & Stripes and that was in Mount Clemens Michigan.

I reset the ram and its throwing the errors 50, 13, and 31... you explained the 50 and 13... the 13 does turn to 19 eventually, and there is no lock on the door so I don't know if that error will go away after I put a lock on it. The error code that bothers me is the 31, also it stops all the coins about half way into the slot... Any ideas? Thanks

No idea...busted wire somewhere maybe...
Here are some of the error codes.
I don't know what the "19" is for?
19 Credits?
Click on the photo to enlarge it!>>>

Great info uniman!

Thanks for sharing.

Hi

19 - Indicates a all clear and will go away after a game is played.
31 - Hopper overpay. Probably because a coin is obstructing the hopper optic.

You dont need to fit a lock - Simply stick a piece of paper into the door optic to fool it into thinking its closed.

See attached full error code listing - Sorry formatting did not come out so nice.


Ian

That's still a way better error code list than I had... :89-
Thank you very much for uploading it TZ!  :3-

Okay, so it seems as though there is an error in the door shutting... even when it is shut it reads it as a code 50 which is an open door error.... I'm not really sure on this... The 19 is normal, and finally this 31... Thanks you so much for that PDF TZtech, but when I press the reset button it seems to do nothing along with the all of the other buttons... I'm not really sure whats going on. When I shut it off and turn it back on it throws an 11 along with a 13... Meaning it couldn't successfully start because there isn't voltage, but when I do the Ram clear it starts right up and gives the 19... So all in all The real issue is the 31... I feel like I should start with that... Thanks for your help and suggestions...

Hi

Ok you need to get rid of the hopper tilt first. What kind of hopper do you have in the machine ?. Did you check the optic on the hopper for any kind of obstruction ?

On the left hand side of the machine just above the BV there should be a small optic. Normally this would be blocked by a camm attached to the door mech when the door is closed. Just stick a piece of paper in there. There is also a white switchabove the reels that needs to be pushed in that works in series with the door optic.

Ian

Okay, how do I get rid of the hopper tilt, and how do I tell what kind of hopper I have, or what are the different possibilities? I didn't where is the optic on the hopper, and I don't believe there is any obstruction. I closed the door and have the piece of paper over the optic sensor, but its still giving me a error 50... Sorry I'm such a newb to this type of stuff, and thanks for the help.

Ok, error 31.  (I hate this error!)
The book says OVER PAY. But this is what is really happening;
The hopper has a small opto sensor that counts the coins as they leave the hopper. The MPU board must see this sensor at all times. If the connection between the hopper and board is broken you get error 31. If there is a coin stuck over the sensor you also get error 31.
So, open the door and remove the coin tray. (lifts up)
With the machine shut off;
Pull out the hopper and look in the slit where the coins come out. Make sure no coins in there.
Then push hopper back into machine. Make sure it is in the guides on the floor. Push it back until it is plugged into the blue plug that is mounted on the floor of the machine.
Again, reseat the MPU board to the backplane. Push on both white pull tabs.
Now start the machine and push the reset button. 

Bunker, the error codes you posted apply to the older Universals, not the Ultra Series. Most are the same but, for instance, Error 51 is door closed in the Ultra, door open when reels are spinning in the older Uni's.

Once we get passed the pesky error 31 then we can get the door closed & locked.
The white push buttons located inside the machine at the upper right are called Cherry Switches. There should be two. Only one is used so if there is only one, no big deal. When you close the door this switch pushes in and tells the MPU the door is closed. (You can pull the white switch out and it will simulate the door closed, great for troubleshooting)
Now the MPU has to think the door is locked too. Look at my pics below. First one is the door lock optic. A gray U-shaped plastic thing mounted to the wall. (I circled it in red)
In my second pic you can see I put a piece of electrical tape in the U to fake out the the machine in to thinking the door is locked. (there was a tab connected to a lock that blocks the optic) You can see a little red light on the left side of the optic that is on when the optic is blocked. (Didn't show up in my pic)

Don't worry about the error 11. It should blink maybe once or twice then go away. It's the power supply getting up to proper voltage.
If error 11 persists, then it's a problem.

Okay, I checked the sensor and it was a clear, and very clean, I put it all back together and still getting the Error 31... Okay on the door, I think that'll work, and on error 11, Okay... Just really 31 is the main issue... I'm still confused, so does the reset button do anything that you can see or make a noise or anything?

It works like this;
Let's say your playing your machine and suddenly the hopper is unplugged. The TILT light will flash and error 31 would appear in the win meter. The machine will not play with this error.
So you press the reset and nothing happens. That's because the problem is still there. You would have to plug the hopper back in first. At that point the error would continue to flash until the reset is pushed. Now with the error corrected the reset will stop the error code from flashing and allow the machine to resume play.

So, as long as the problem is still there the reset button does nothing.

It sure sounds like your MPU is not seeing the hopper.

It could be any of the following;
The hopper opto sensor is bad.
The hopper circuit board is bad.
The hopper plug is loose and not making contact.  (I have seen this before!)
The MPU is just not seating/connecting to the backplane.  (And this can be a real pain too when it happens)
The MPU has a componet problem.

Now you see why I hate error 31.

Try taking a small screwdriver and slightly bending the contacts on the hopper plug to make better contact.

I missed another reason your getting error 31 and this one is important. Need to know what type of hopper you have. (As TZtech was asking)
Up to now I have been assuming many things.
Here is my list of assumptions;
1. You have an upright machine and not a slant top.  (YES or NO)
2. Your machine has the standard Holey multi-hole hopper.  (YES or NO)
3. Your machine is parts complete.                (Pic's would be nice)
4. The dip switch settings on your board are set correctly. (There are seperate settings for two different types of hoppers.)

Look at the picture below. Is this the hopper type you have?

Take your MPU board out and write down the DIP switch settings. There are five different sets of switches. You will see them labeled DIP-1, DIP-2, etc. Sets 1 thru 4 have eight switches each and #5 has four switches. #5 is right by the reset buttons on the edge of the board. Let's check them all. They are either OFF or ON.
For the error 31 problem the DIP-1, switches 6-7 are of interest. I would expect both to be ON for the Holey multi-hole hopper.

Off to work, will log on this evening.
Uniman

Okay, hopefully I address everything, Yes this is an upright machine, it has the hopper that is displayed in the picture... I sadly don't have the time to work on it today, but tomorrow I will do what you suggested, and report back... I'm only allowed 2 attachments so here they are...

Heres some more

and two more...

last two...

Well the error 31 still persists.  :37-
This error can mean something is blocking the opto sensor or, and more often the problem, the MPU board does not see the opto sensor. (The circuit between the two is broken)
Could be the circuit is broken where the MPU meets the blackplane or where the hopper is plugged in. Or it's a hopper board and/or sensor problem.

Let's focus on the hopper. I've had problems with worn hopper plugs now and then. So I came up with a very cheap solution. On the receiver end mounted to the floor of the machine I inserted small 1/4" lengths of toothpicks above the upper contacts to keep them in contact with the plug from the hopper. See pic below and NO LAUGHING.  :97-   Hey, it works.
The gap between the contacts and the blue plastic is just too big.

The hopper has a small board. It is P950026. The hopper plug wires go to this board at location CN1 with a 9-pin connector.
The hopper motor wires connect to CN2, a three wire connector.
The opto sensor connects to CN3, a small three wire connector.
CN4 is a small five wire connection that will have just two green wires. This is for the hopper overflow. When coins in the hopper reach the sensor probe inside it grounds this circuit and the machine opens the diverter at the bottom of the coin-in assembly.
CN5 is not used, believe it is for a programmed coin in diversion.
In the upper right corner is a selector switch for 50 or 60HZ power. Should be switched to 60HZ.
On the back is another selector switch. This switch is for the overflow control. Either programed or conduction. Should be on C for conduction. When the board is properly seated there is a small hole that only allows this switch to be on C. Again this is only for overflow, does not affect error 31.

This is my little test unit. A hopper plug, hopper board, and the opto sensor. I plug it in to the hopper plug, lay the board on a small piece of plastic to avoid shorting it out, and lay the opto sensor face up with nothing at least 6 inches above it. Then I turn on the machine and error 31 should not be seen. If I do get error 31, I then wiggle the plug and keep pressing the reset button. If I find the error clears, then the plug is the problem. If not, then the MPU board is the problem.

Hello Uniman

Good info - Thanks. Is there no way hopper can be disabled and wins keyed off so at least you guys can get machine into play mode ?.
On our machines we dont use them as they are all on cashless but i dont know if thats a setting or an option built into the base SW that we use.
Also there is a led on the little optic that should come on. If not you know its a wiring or optic problem.

Ian

Wow, it's been a long time... My life just got busy... Here is where I am at, I took out the main board to check the switches, upon instruction, and when I reinserted this board only the machines lights turn on. The 4 small led's no longer light on the main board. Yeah... so the problems I feel are growing. Thanks in advance for the help and suggestions...

Sounds like the board is not seated all the way. With power off, pull it out and check the pins in back, make sure all is straight, reinsert board and seat it. By seat it I mean to make sure it is plugged in solid to the motherboard. Do a RAM clear while powering up.

Finally after about a week of playing, the board is running again, and the error codes are yet again the same, 19, 31, and 50.  19 you said will go away after it is played, and 50 is door ajar, so that leaves 31 which is the coin hopper, I will try the tooth pick thing and see where that gets me, and hopefully report back...

okay, so the toothpick thing did nothing at all, but now when the door is open, it reads a 50 and a 0 further down on the win meter display, and when the door is closed it reads a 51 with a 1 where the 0 was previously, its also still reading a 19, which shouldn't be an issue, and then the 31... which seems to still be the major issue, is there some way to bypass the hopper or what is my next move?

I don't think you can bypass the hopper.

Lets assume your main mpu board is good and has a good connection.
That leaves the hopper as the possible problem. Need to check the optic.
Remove the hopper and take off the plastic bowl. It unsnaps.
See first pic below. Need to remove the black plastic case that holds the optic. Three screws. There might be a shim at top and bottom when you remove it. Mine in the pic is a dollar hopper, can't remember if quarter hoppers have shims too. Don't lose the shims, remember where they go.
Then unscrew the silver metal cover on the back of the black plastic case. One screw. Unplug the optic and then pull it out.

To be continued....

Look at the optic and you will see the two lenses on one side. Turn the optic and there is a little green LED on the side.
Plug the optic back in and put the hopper back in the machine.
Postion the optic so the lenses are pointing into the open air. (In my pic they are pointing down, LED pointing towards me)
Turn on the machine and see if the green LED is lit. (See 1st pic)
Put your finger over the optic lenses and see if the green LED goes out.
Let me know your findings,

Jim


(Note: this topic marked as sticky by request. Thanks jbshocks!)

Good Evening to all members online.
I wanted to search www then remembered that on NLG you can find almost anything for slots.
I'm in need of a few slot manuals;if anyone can help me please, it would be power.
Bally slot 5000
Bally Video Poker V5500
Universal Slot-3,5 or 7 series.

Have a great evening or day.

Thank You
Zuixit

I need a key for a Universal Slot Machine. It is a CONTEST CRANKY NUMBERS 019191, u4-22,,,,ndt 1378157
tHANKS
miltonyancey@yahoo.com

Milton,
This is not the Want To Buy section of NLG. Only post here if you have an Universal Ultra Slot problem.

Please post your WTB in this section; http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=137.0    You will need to start a New Topic.

I believe Cranky Condor is a skill stop slot machine, not many skill stop people here.

Jim