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Monitor Repair Log and Database. **Arcade and Gaming** => Monitor Repair Tech Support => Topic started by: makamusements on May 03, 2011, 04:17:20 PM



Title: Cruisin Exotica monitor issue - need help w/monitor chassis
Post by: makamusements on May 03, 2011, 04:17:20 PM
I have a Cruisin Exotica that is playing blind (you can hear the game but no picture), 27 inch monitor. The monitor chassis is a wells gardner WGM2775-UOTS50K. I do have the schematic, however I have absolutely no experience repairing this particular chassis and really dont know where to start. Caps look good. One end of the board is browned a bit from obviously taking some heat (side with capacitor C716), no components look obviously fried though. Ay help at all is appreciated. Thanks in advance.


Title: Re: Cruisin Exotica monitor issue - need help w/monitor chassis
Post by: channelmaniac on May 03, 2011, 07:28:53 PM
Are the fuses good?

Do you have high voltage?


Title: Re: Cruisin Exotica monitor issue - need help w/monitor chassis
Post by: makamusements on May 03, 2011, 08:55:32 PM
Yes voltages are good, all fuses are OK as well.


Title: Re: Cruisin Exotica monitor issue - need help w/monitor chassis
Post by: jay on May 04, 2011, 01:29:16 AM
I think when he says high voltage, he is referring to the strong static cling that you get when you run your finger over the screen.

So even if the input voltages are all good this absence of the staticy screen points to one of the power transistors.


Title: Re: Cruisin Exotica monitor issue - need help w/monitor chassis
Post by: morning_glory21 on May 04, 2011, 03:41:42 AM
I think when he says high voltage, he is referring to the strong static cling that you get when you run your finger over the screen.

So even if the input voltages are all good this absence of the staticy screen points to one of the power transistors.

 :212-  you should be able to hear the crackle of high voltage when you turn the machine on.  if you don't have that then the likely bad component would be the HOT or flyback transformer.  i would also "shotgun" the electrolytic caps just cause they are often the problem and are pretty cheap; just a visual check isn't enough for caps.  you could also look for the color gun heaters turning on.  power up the monitor, turn the room lights of and look inside the narrow neck of the tube, you should see the heaters glowing in the darkness.  if there is no glow then you don't have high voltage. :50- :50-
i've never worked on this particular model of CRT either but verifying high voltage is always a basic starting point.  g/l