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Author Topic: IGT S2000 Vision Servo Noise in Audio  (Read 7756 times)
KirkLasVegas
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« on: January 20, 2009, 05:06:41 PM »

Anyone know what might be causing this? I already changed the 1000 Mfd. cap on the multimedia board..no change...

Link to YouTube.....

Thanks for any/all help


Kirk
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« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2009, 06:59:16 PM »

First, why do you have a MM board in with that game?  It doesn't use it.  If you pull the board the noise should go away.

Second, what are the last 3 digits for the part number of the processor board?  I bet it's a 501 or 502.  Those boards are noisy.  There is a fix for it that IGT published but it's not an easy fix.  You can use the resistor or pot method to eliminate most of that noise or use a 504 board.
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brichter
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« Reply #2 on: January 21, 2009, 01:23:58 AM »

There is a fix for it that IGT published but it's not an easy fix.  You can use the resistor or pot method to eliminate most of that noise or use a 504 board.

Anybody have a copy of the IGT fix?
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Bill
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« Reply #3 on: January 21, 2009, 05:08:37 AM »

First, why do you have a MM board in with that game?  It doesn't use it.  If you pull the board the noise should go away.

And then you can sell it, I would buy it today, or many others here as well would buy it
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« Reply #4 on: January 21, 2009, 05:23:37 AM »

Here's a whole thread about it.. may fix your humming problem during spins

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=145.0
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edski
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« Reply #5 on: January 21, 2009, 05:37:24 AM »

I had the same problem with my S2000 and the sound humming from the LEFT speaker only, I followed IGT CN 3633 and it solved the problem!

Disclaimer: Good soldering skills with a sharp tip is a great help, delicate soldering of the MPU is required!

Please be advised the modification only requires to MPU P/N 75510502 Rev A and 75510504 Rev A. Raw boards 75510504 Rev B and 75510530 Rev C will not require this work. These changes have been incorporated into the artwork.

- Remove R26 on the backside of the MPU
- Lift pin 4 of U43 and clip close to the chip (tricky!)
- Hook up 24ga wire between U85 pin 5 and C70 pin 1
- Hook up 24ga wire between U85 pin 4 to C57 pin 1
- Hook up 24ga wire between C70 pin 1, J1 pin 18b
- Hook up 24ga wire between J1 pin 14a, C61 pin 2, and C70 pin 2
- Hook up 24ga wire between J4 pin 22a, J4 pin 22c, and J1 pin 14b

My machine has the multimedia board and also has amplified speakers, it worked on my machine. If your machine is anything different be cautious!

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brichter
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« Reply #6 on: January 21, 2009, 06:14:22 AM »

Sweet. Time to check my board number.

<edit>

Wierd. My board number is 7551050 then after that in Magic Marker it has 0 REV D, which would be 75510500 Rev D. Not one of the listed boards for the IGT fix.

How much of a difference in these boards is there? Would one of the later model boards work on a Vision?
« Last Edit: January 21, 2009, 06:24:01 AM by brichter » Logged

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« Reply #7 on: January 21, 2009, 11:43:39 AM »

Any of the board numbers will work with the platform, but you need to look at the white sticker that starts with PN, all IGT part numbers are 8 digits the 7 digits are sub assy's, (the blank board), the one ending in 501 was the first board in the games in 1997, and what most Visions/Vision Ready had in them originally (the games with no speakers) the 502 was after that and most of the early S-2000's had these and then the 504 in the games around 2004 or so, but all will work it is just the noise as the 501's were made and in service before the bat ear speakers and amps were on the games, so near the number you found that was printed on the board "should" be a thin long white tag with the completed part number
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« Reply #8 on: January 21, 2009, 03:24:44 PM »

Any of the board numbers will work with the platform, but you need to look at the white sticker that starts with PN, all IGT part numbers are 8 digits the 7 digits are sub assy's, (the blank board), the one ending in 501 was the first board in the games in 1997, and what most Visions/Vision Ready had in them originally (the games with no speakers) the 502 was after that and most of the early S-2000's had these and then the 504 in the games around 2004 or so, but all will work it is just the noise as the 501's were made and in service before the bat ear speakers and amps were on the games, so near the number you found that was printed on the board "should" be a thin long white tag with the completed part number

Thanks, Jim. I'll pull the board tonight and see if there's a label on the bottom, but there's not a label on the front. My issue with this board is I've overheated the pots when I had the MML2 installed with my Haywire Deluxe kit. If there's a way to fix this problem on the board and eliminate the noise, that would be the better solution in my opinion.

My reason for asking about the board compatibility is so if I screw up the board trying to update it, I know what boards I can buy to replace it. Burning Resistor arrow
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Bill
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« Reply #9 on: January 21, 2009, 09:58:40 PM »

If you have a 501 board the IGT fix is not for that board.
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brichter
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« Reply #10 on: January 22, 2009, 01:20:26 AM »

Any way other than the label to identify the board? No label on mine. no
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« Reply #11 on: January 22, 2009, 02:06:29 AM »

 Tongue Out
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ChrisColumbus
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« Reply #12 on: March 23, 2009, 07:08:53 AM »

Mine sounded like that only after I installed the backlit reels... Jeff helped me with the pot method.. best way and easy fix... do you have backlit reels or a backlit reel controller installed on that machine?? if so just unplug it since pinball doesnt use backlit reels
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