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Author Topic: Free Play device removal  (Read 9739 times)
Big Ed Deline
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« on: September 20, 2012, 04:49:14 PM »

Just got a machine today with a free play device installed. Has anyone ever seen something like this?
 I am going to be ripping it out and putting in a coin comparitor but just wanted to know if anyone has ever seen such a thing. Its on the Right most button and when you hit it, it gives you 40 (50 cent) credits. I had to get to work so I could not mess with it, I just snapped a quick pic before I left. But Based on this pic, has this person done something major to this machine, or will I easily be ablt to convert it back to a coin comparitor.

Thanks.


* IMAG1232.jpg (595.07 KB, 2560x1440 - viewed 305 times.)
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TZtech
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« Reply #1 on: September 20, 2012, 05:44:53 PM »

You will need the entire coin comparator assembly (Frame, Comparator, optic board and harness) and also coin insert and mount. simply unplug freeplay device and plug in assembly and you should be good to go. Make sure You order for a coin size compatible with your hopper
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« Reply #2 on: September 21, 2012, 03:46:46 AM »

Believe it or not but some folks would kill for a device like that.
It would be good to reverse engineer and post.......

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PLUNGER BOY
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« Reply #3 on: September 21, 2012, 10:16:08 AM »

Believe it or not but some folks would kill for a device like that.
It would be good to reverse engineer and post.......


RUDYS sold that type of free play device
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #4 on: September 21, 2012, 12:17:30 PM »

When you un-install it Big Ed, don't just cut at the wires with a pliers!  hissy fit
You should take notes on a piece of paper of how it's hooked up and post it up here!
There hasn't been much documentation on the official IGT Free-Play device that you have
and yours would be sort of a first!  yes
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Big Ed Deline
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« Reply #5 on: September 21, 2012, 12:24:10 PM »

Will do.  I dont have a lot of time today as I am really busy with work stuff right now, but I will share everything I can with you guys.  As far as cutting it free.... there really is no cutting. It plugs in to that big socket on one end and then two wires slide nicely on to the leads of the button on the other end. So thankfully its all "un-plugable" with no cutting.


* IMAG1243.jpg (573.78 KB, 2560x1440 - viewed 301 times.)
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #6 on: September 21, 2012, 01:37:45 PM »

That's great Ed!  applause
There appears to be four 470 Ohm resistors
and a 1k Ohm resistor on that side of the IGT Coin Simulator board.

I think I'm going to try and pick one up from John's (aka Rudys)
and see what else is on there to help document it...
I might have one laying around somewhere but I think it was for an IGT S+ or a Bally 5500 machine.
I'm not sure if there 's any difference between the two boards or not.
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CommTech
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Joe


« Reply #7 on: September 21, 2012, 02:25:53 PM »

Looks like a very simple design and should be fairly easy to figure out and build.  Nerd
If I were to guess, based on looking at the board in the picture ... It looks like three OptoIsolators to simulate the Coin in optics, connected to perhaps a shift register along with some kind of simple multivibrator circuit to provide the pulses (555 timer chip maybe?).

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TZtech
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« Reply #8 on: September 21, 2012, 02:36:27 PM »

Whats the number on the 8 pin chip? My guess would be a its a microcontroller.
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Big Ed Deline
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« Reply #9 on: September 21, 2012, 03:41:45 PM »

Whats the number on the 8 pin chip? My guess would be a its a microcontroller.

I'll try to snag the chip number over the weekend. The machine is at home and I am at work or I'd get it for you now. I had suspected at first that it looked like a 555 timer when I snapped that close up pic this morning, but it was not. I should have written the number down then (but didn't)
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #10 on: September 21, 2012, 04:03:59 PM »

Looks like a very simple design and should be fairly easy to figure out and build.  Nerd
If I were to guess, based on looking at the board in the picture ... It looks like three OptoIsolators to simulate the Coin in optics, connected to perhaps a shift register along with some kind of simple multivibrator circuit to provide the pulses (555 timer chip maybe?).




A multivibrator !?!?!    That's a ticklish thought!  Crazy
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Big Ed Deline
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« Reply #11 on: September 22, 2012, 02:12:50 AM »

looks like
12F508    I/P R7G   1105

Might be R76

Additionally: it looks like its a signal for what ever a 20 dollar credit is. It puts 40 (50 cent credits) on a machine for one hit of the button.


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« Last Edit: September 22, 2012, 02:18:07 AM by Big Ed Deline » Logged
Foster
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« Reply #12 on: September 22, 2012, 02:25:58 AM »

12F508 is a Micro Controller
A micro controller is a simple microprocessor with internal program and ram and simple I/O (does not normally require special chips to handle I/O like the CPU in your PC has in it to handle I/O)

if it pops 40 credits on the display instead of counting up to 40 then your coin denomination is $20.00 and your player denomination is $0.25.
concerning the S2000 the coin denomination does not have to match the player or game denomination
when I had coin handling on my s2000 with multi-denomination enabled, it would take 2 tokens to add 1 credit for my $0.50 denomination

« Last Edit: September 22, 2012, 02:31:47 AM by Foster » Logged

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« Reply #13 on: September 22, 2012, 02:27:38 AM »

Token value is set up within the machine values so whatever denom it's set for is how many credits you get per push. If you want phone help PM me wit a request and I'll send you my phone number. It's really a pretty simple deal.
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vtyler
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« Reply #14 on: September 22, 2012, 08:39:52 PM »

hold down the button see what happens one of my first jobs at the slot shop i work for involved one of these. mine had a 12c508a tho the c variant is only a signal use and you cant read the code off of it. if you end up getting rid of it let me know i would like to try and read it with my pic kit.
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solinoid
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« Reply #15 on: September 23, 2012, 12:43:24 AM »

Hi Ed,
I would also be interested in how that gizmo works. I built some for S+'s I had and they were pretty simple. I only have 1 S+ left now (my kids raided the game room for there houses bust gut laughing),
so my other machines are S2000's and I haven' had time to figure out the circuit for an S2000. I know it is different, I'm no electronic engineer but what I remember reading was the voltage differences would call for some type of isolation from the pic. The S+ devices I built didn't use any.
Getting some info from that device would certainly speed up the process yes
Thanks for sharing, +1 (Karma, or whatever)
Barry
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vtyler
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« Reply #16 on: September 23, 2012, 01:07:39 AM »

just an fyi it should also work in the igame (i say should because i didn't use this device i used the tournament controller i designed from this device)
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Big Ed Deline
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« Reply #17 on: September 23, 2012, 01:46:12 AM »

hold down the button see what happens one of my first jobs at the slot shop i work for involved one of these. mine had a 12c508a tho the c variant is only a signal use and you cant read the code off of it. if you end up getting rid of it let me know i would like to try and read it with my pic kit.

Well it looks like if you hold it down it inserts a "coin" every second or so. Like Cowboy stated above it all depends on what a single "coin" was defined as when you set up the machine.  I just changed it out today to a Triple stars machine and when I got everything re-done with clear and key, one hit of the button is now a quarter instead of a 20 dollar bill.

Some questions for the experts:   What would I have to do to read the chip? Get a e-prom reader/burner? What is a good cheap one to buy?
 Second: IF I were able to read it, Is it as simple as burning that program on to a new blank 12F508 chip? Im still not sure what the 3 little black chips are but the rest looks like it can be bought at any radio shack.
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vtyler
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« Reply #18 on: September 23, 2012, 01:57:02 AM »

easy of read depends on your rom burner some read them with an adapter. chances are tho that they used copy protection when they flashed the chip(its a pic microcontroller), if they did you can only read part of the program. yes if you can get the entire code it can just be put on a blank chip. my earlier comment was more in regard to how it looped the program the version i had didn't have a delay in the loop so often the chip would be mistakenly triggered multiple times spamming the machine with credits.
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vtyler
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« Reply #19 on: September 25, 2012, 04:04:37 AM »

are people actually interested in these devices.
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Big Ed Deline
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« Reply #20 on: September 25, 2012, 09:17:52 AM »

are people actually interested in these devices.
I've gotten several PMs from people who were asking to buy it, so there must be an interest.
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« Reply #21 on: September 25, 2012, 01:31:50 PM »

The interest is more curiosity rather than applied use....and you know where curiosity got the cat.   CatEyes

Last one on eBay brought $50-55 I think. Wasn't to long ago, maybe 2-3 months?
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vtyler
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« Reply #22 on: September 26, 2012, 03:27:29 AM »

curiosity i cant help you. but if people actually want them the company i do r&d for has a working prototype that may go for sale soon.
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Red7
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« Reply #23 on: October 09, 2012, 01:29:49 PM »

If anyone needs coin input devices for the S2000 of Bally s 6000.. I have plenty.. I have made several different versions.. Although mine have a lot more functionality over the basic input devices I see here. Although if people only want  quick input device.. I can whip them up quick.. Generally for around 50 bucks plus shipping..

Just PM me and I will see what I can do.. the devices I currently have now are a little more then what the average person is looking for, all the extra components and harness's increases the cost. But like I said I can whip up a new board pretty quick.  I would still include selectable coin amount... I can custom program them to anyone's liking.. I have posted this information before but I always thought there was no interest.. for I didn't get and requests..

Thanks

Steve

 


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