New Life Games Tech Forums

Hey all, as you all know I have been on here chatting about trying to get my S6000 coin-less.. I could not get the tokenization thing to work at all so I decided to go about it differently and make a device to simulate a "Coin input" I know there is a device on the market already that has been mention in the forum. I do not have one of these nor do I know how it exactly works? If someone could let me know that would be great. As far as how U input a credit? One at a time? etc..

I have been testing my device for the last week, and it has been working awesome (still in bread board form). I have figured out all the pin-outs on the stock S6000 Coin optics board and made a new one with some additional features.

The device will have the same connector as the stock optics board as well as "wire screw down terminals" for the folks that do not have the same connector.

The most common thing I ran into with my machines when playing them was I would get coin input error codes, and Jam codes etc.. annoying. So this device will disable that feature and no errors will ever occur again.

So how it works..

You have the option to add credits how ever you like. Using the stock coin comparator, key switch, "service button", or all three. You have a choice of how many coins to enter. U can set the potentiometer on the device to add 100 coins for every coin entered into the machine, or every time you push the "service button" or U could install a hidden switch or key switch. For instance in order to enter 100 credits in machine you must turn key switch and hold, then hit "service" once, turn key switch off. U can set what ever combination you like. Every time a coin is entered it only adds the normal one credit, but when you push "button A" it gives you "X" amount.
The device adds 8 coins per second, so 80 coins would take 10 seconds. If you are using a regular push button to enter credits and you have it set to enter 80 credits, you push the button once, but you would like more credits no problem, just hold the button down and receive 8 credits/per sec. Stop when you have the desired amount, when you let go of the button it stops, as long as you held the button down longer then the set time. If not you would only get the set amount.

I think I have thought of everything, It will only allow you to enter credits at the proper times the normal optics board allows you, as well it will not allow you to spin or bet while the credits are being entered.

I have ordered all the parts I need to solder one up, it will not be pretty but I will take some pics and maybe a video if anyone is interested. Once the testing is complete I may look into ordering Printed circuit boards the same size and shape as the stock optics. You do not have to have any coin gear to use it, just the wire harness need to be there so you can connect to it.

Well I could go on for hours, but I think I might be boring you all with something that might not interest anyone. If it does, great I will be able to respond to any questions.. as well I will keep those posted on my progress.     

The bonus to this is that you have many options. You eliminate those stubborn optics boards and all the errors and crap that came with them. You can still use your coin comparator for entering credits.


How I set up my machine *Example

Removed optics board, plugged new board in. Set options in machine to Hopper pay out 56 -  "0", option 51,58 = 4999 credits allowed.
Using normal CC-16 coin comparator, I unplugged the solenoid (2 pin connector) that allows machine to accept coin or kick out. This way if the coin is the right one or not It still will be returned to tray.
If the right coin is entered it will add 1 coin to the meter, but if I hold the "Service button" and put a quarter in it adds 100 Credits to my meter. (or which ever amount you desire)
If wrong coin is entered nothing happens. Coin is back in tray.

That's it for now. 
 
As well last but not least, This all might have been done before and I might have missed it, if so.. disregard all.. If you wanna bypass door optics, or want to be able to play with door open.. or for whatever reason use a basic toggle switch in conjunction with the optics still hooked up. One wire of switch to the black wire on the machine side receiver optic, and the other wire through a 100 Ohm resistor to the orange wire. Just flip the switch.. (remember to turn it off when u don't need it, just in case you have to show door open)