New Life Games Tech Forums

Another thread got me thinking about adding a BV to my cocktail MAME setup. While I could make a hole in the cabinet, does anyone know of one that will work with this type of door? I don't think a stacker will fit, but any suggestions would be appreciated. And of course it needs to be simple (i.e. just pulse x number of times depending on the bill inserted.

(http://www.marks-home-theater.com/stuff/mamedoor.jpg)

What's the BACK of the door look like?  :103-
I think I see bolts heads welded to the door.  :209-.
Click to enlarge...or just open the door and take a picture...lol >>>

Check out this auction on eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150457514490).

It's not my auction and I have no idea how you'd interface it into MAME, but it looks like it fits your exact coin door.

There are two removable panels on the back. Ignore the mass of black tape on the coin chute I'm in the process of modifying something.  :79-

(http://www.marks-home-theater.com/stuff/mamedoorback.jpg)

I had already looked at that one and it is on my watch list. I'm trying to find more info how how to set it up.The action does say it bolts in, but is not a perfect fit.

If you get serious about buying the one on fleaSpray, ask him what bills it takes. It's possible that it will only take ones and old fives, which means that if you don't have old fives handy, you'll be restricted to singles.

I don't care if it only takes ones. The problem is I can not find a wiring diagram or complete dip switch settings for it. And while the price is not bad, $16 for shipping is a bit much. Oh well, I'll just keep looking.

Another to watch out for...I've been through this before...lol
is to make sure the bill entry is at the correct height.
Sometimes the slot is low while other times the slot is placed high up on the face...
You might be lucky though...the slot hole on the door face under the cover looks to be quite large.

I'm actually looking at picking up a couple of them for my pinball machines.  He says in the ad that they're circa 1994, so you're likely correct -- singles and old fives only.

He says he'll take inquiries to try to determine if the unit will work in a potential buyer's pin. Send him an email and see what he says, both about the bill acceptance and your machines.  :209-

I did send him an e-mail. From the pins used (as seen in the picture), and maybe the model (NV110)  it appears to be a 115V AC unit. Not a problem, but it would be good to know. Also I can find nothing about how to set the dip switches for pulses per dollar. But since there are 3 dip switches for that, it should be easy enough to trial and error it. This is the only info I could find on that model.

(http://www.marks-home-theater.com/stuff/mamedoorbv.jpg)

I had already sent him a message, actually, at least about which pins it would work in.  Nice guy.  He said to look inside the coin door for a 9-pin harness on the left side -- if it's there, it should work.  If it's not, he said the machine is likely an import and wasn't designed to support a validator.  I checked the machine I have at home and it's ready for it -- I just have to check my other machine in storage to make sure it'll work on that, too.

I did not ask about which bills it would accept.  From a pin standpoint, I can't imagine anyone intending to put anything larger than a $5 in it, and seeing it's NOS from 1994, I doubt it would support ANY of the "large portrait" ("new style") $5 bills -- probably only the old old ones, since the first modern re-design of the $5 wasn't until 2000.

Based on the note on page 5 of the .pdf (attached), step 2, and the diagram found at the bottom of the same page, it looks like these things called for an "adapter plate" to make the fit in the coin door correct.

My machine will not only take it, it actually has a sticker inside on the top plate with instructions for mounting it! The 9-pin connector inside my machine is a 3x3 square Molex. I also know for certain that my software has settings for both the right and left coin in chutes in addition to a bill validator.

It makes sense, since my Wms was made the same year this came out.

One problem is that (from what I have been reading) is the 9 pin connector is sort of a standard. But the BV could be 12v 24v or 114v.  I looked up the schematics for the games the seller said he tried it in and I could not find that 9 pin connector on any of them.

The closest thing I could find that looks like it matched the wiring on the posted picture is this, but with pins 1-3 not being used. Specifically note the green wire on pin 5 that would probably be the ground.
(http://www.marks-home-theater.com/stuff/mamedoorbv1.jpg)


And since this is not going in a pinball, I need to know the pinouts. So if your game actually has this connector, do you have the schematics and can you confirm the pins (and mainly the voltage)?

I got a reply from the seller confirming the above.

"These units operate on 110vac & there are 5 wires in the connector. 2 are ac, hot/neutral, 1 is ground, & the other two are switch pulse wires. Thanks again for your inquiry. Let me know if & how we can help more."

So for my use they would probably work. I may need to fabricate a bezel as noted in the ad, but that is not a big deal. The only other mystery is how those first 2 dips switches affect the number of pulses per dollar. All of the info I found seems to tell you to set it to one pulse and set the game to determine how many credits to give.

It really should be set with the dips at being:
1 pulse =$1.00
5 pulses=$5.00
10 pulses=$10.00
etc.etc.
This way the bill acceptor can tell machine what bill it took.
The machine if set for a quarter (0.25 cents) denomination,  
will then ring up a $20 dollar bill very quickly,  for 80 credits.

The problem with something like MAME is that the BV needs to determine the number of pulse per dollar, not the machine.
The machine is just monitoring the coin slot switch (which the BV would be in parallel with).
I'm hoping it's actually set up like the BL-700 which has similar switches 1-4

(http://www.marks-home-theater.com/stuff/mamedoorbv3.jpg)

Guess I'll find out since I went ahead and bought one..

I'd go with 4 pulses per dollar then,
fast output pulsing, and security inhibit to "OFF"

Yes. Assuming that is how the switches work. As I posted earlier, the only info I could find on the Tekbilt dip switches was this

(http://www.marks-home-theater.com/stuff/mamedoorbv4.jpg)

I'm not even sure it takes anything other than singles (which is fine for my application).

Most of those type of bill acceptors were for arcades and laundromats.
They didn't take anything higher than a $20 dollar bill usually.

The BL-700-USD2 (as an example) only takes ones and fives. The documentation posted earlier for installing the TekBilt has nothing about setting switches for any other value, (and only notes 4 switches). And since it even mentions testing it only with $1 bills,  I'm really thinking this one only takes singles. I'll post what I find out after I get it and mess with it. Also note at the top of the instructions it says 'dollar bill validator' where others say 'currency validator'.

You know, looking at what the first three switches do in that diagram, and how the Tekbilt documentation says to set it up for the pins, you may be on to something about changing the first three dips to OFF ON ON to get 4 pulses for a dollar.

I'll let you know once I get mine installed in my pin if it takes $5s, as I have a few old $5s laying around.

I'll take 'em! :5-  It's a shame to waste them.  :30-  I'll even send you a self-addressed stamped envelope, or a box if you have that many. :200- :208- :208- :208-

No problem, Uncle Soupy (http://www.snopes.com/radiotv/tv/soupy1.asp).

Ok, I got my Tekbilt BV and here is what I concluded.

1. It is a 110V AC unit and the wiring is like I posted earlier.
2. It only takes singles
3. It only takes singles face up (but either way).
4. The first 3 dip switches do control the number of pulses per dollar. However the table is different than the one I posted for another BV. The correct settings are shown below. See note below about all switches on.
5. The relay output was causing havoc with my MAME i-pac keyboard emulator. I think some AC hum was being introduced into it. So to solve the problem, I use the internal relay to drive a separate relay. It works just fine this way using the slow pulse.
6. Even though it looks like I have the same door as he shows on the auction, none of the holes really line up with anything. At best, you can get one screw in. I can probably fabricate a bracket, but I have a clearance problem with the monitor in my cabinet. I have to see if I can cut away part of the monitor case.  :79-

Note: Setting dip switches 1-3 to on causes the BV to cycle back and forth. not sure if it a test mode or a calibration mode. I would not recommend playing around with it.

<edit> I have to contact the seller. Mine is missing one of the exit wheel rollers, causing the bill to sometimes not exit all of the way.

<edit 2>
1. I contacted the seller and he will send me another one.
2. I resolved the problem with the i-pac controller by using a power cord for the BV that has a ground. Apparently without it, there is a lot of hum that can get into the lines. So no external relay needed.

Correct dip switch settings for Tekbilt NV110-GA1
(http://www.marks-home-theater.com/stuff/mamedoorbv5.jpg)

Well, I found the missing roller under the top board. But the special screw and spring were missing. Not sure if it came off during shipping or not. I rigged it up with another spring and screw for now (I still want a 'complete' unit though). But that solved the problem of the bills not exiting. Now, I had to make the dang thing fit. I found that if you really work at it, you can get the two  bottom holes to line up (on the door I have). The top still needs to be braced somehow though. For now, I have some tie straps wrapped over the top mounting studs. The biggest issue was that it was too close to the monitor. So after cutting out a section of the monitor case and the metal shield, I had just enough room for it to fit and still allow the bills to drop. Although you can't see it in the picture, there is a piece of clear plastic over the monitor circuit board. not only to keep from accidentally touching it, but to give the bills something to smoothly slide on and not get caught on the solder joints. Next I have to fabricate a better bezel.

Also bill acceptance seems to be about 90%. Sometimes it will take the same bill 9 times and then reject it. There is not much to the recognition circuitry. Just one small magnetic head in the center.

(http://www.marks-home-theater.com/stuff/mamedoorbv6.jpg)

wow...that's a tight fit!
Great job getting it to work! :3-
What was the rating for the relay used?

The one I originally used was like 15 amps as it was all I had available. But as noted, after properly connecting a power cord with a ground wire (3 prong), I no longer needed to use an external relay as the one in the BV works fine.

I made a quick bezel. The BV is still a little crooked, but that is easy enough to fix. I also made a small decal for it. All this work for something I will probably never use.  :72-

(http://www.marks-home-theater.com/stuff/mamedoorbv7.jpg)