New Life Games Tech Forums

I just replaced the vision ready harness with a true S2000 harness
What a chore but well worth it.

Before I did the harness swap I decided to test a new to me 504B that has original IC's from IGT
other than EEPROM error (only lost credits and sound setup) board works great

Then I proceeded to the main event of swapping out the harness.
Other 3 harnesses I made for the original vision ready harness that I am still using.
Topper (originally Spectrum II in it) harness
Stereo speaker harness (not using Amp at this time) have future plans for it.
Power to power dist board (from the senet connector for now)

I got the harness from Slots4home Darrell with quite a few extras.
504B with DD strips from eBay. approx. $60 with nice looking backlit Double Diamond Strips with large symbols.
Now if I could find the 3 or 4 misc harnesses for the top box and a few other things I can say I officially have  a full S2000

Now for the questions
I need to know where the Top Box Power Distribution Board is Powered?
Does the Amp get power from the Power Dist board?

Best I can tell it plugs into the bottom middle of the mother board, J2 Netplex 10 pin, along with other wires.

Ron (r273)

The Top Box Power Distribution Board and amplifier get their power through a 10-pin Molex
coming up through out of the back right corner of the topbox.

This is split into 2 Molex plugs:

1) One of the Molex plugs is a 4-pin housing with 2-wires (Red and Black w/Red Stripe) that
plugs into the amplfier at the J8 header location.

2) The other Molex plugs into the right-side of the topbox power distribution board
with a 4-pin Molex housing with 4-wires (Orange/Black w/White Stripe/Red/Black w/Red Stripe)
into the J1 header location.

I think he is asking "I need to know where the Top Box Power Distribution Board is Powered?
Does the Amp get power from the Power Dist board? "

I think it's power comes from the mother board instead of the Power Dist board in the bottom.

Ron (r273)

Yes...I agree with you.
The 10-pin Molex up there goes down to the
motherboard like you posted earlier.

Mine gets split as it comes through into the topbox to
both the topbox power distribution board and the AMP.

Yep! Mine too.   :89-

Thank you guys,
I had suspected that was the power source but I wanted to make sure I was on the right track using that for the power.
Right now I am using the SENET port on the left side of the top box.
Now to work on that harness and a audio harness that is going to the be trick since I did notice that the amp board has different inputs at different levels of attenuation.

Power harness for Dist board and Amp Done

I have been playing with various connections to the amp to see what may also fix the buzz static in the speakers with the amp
It is being introduced by the amp itself
I hear no buzz static with a 504B all I did hear on a 501 and 502 was a like a motor or mechanical noise effect when the reels spin maybe that supposed be there.
So far no luck getting the amp to only amplify the sounds from the machine without the unwanted buzz or static.
Will let you folks know what may work besides using the resistors

I got the amp working with not static.

Use the input harness from IGT or make one that matches it.
No resistors needed unless you want to have more variable volume control
I cant go above 2 or 3 without it being way too loud.

Another question I need to make sure I have the left channel sound going to the left speaker and the right channel sound going to the right speaker.
The MMLB2 sound file test are no help they play out of both speakers.

The stereo sound test plays 3 tones but which of the high tones is for which speaker?
I know the low tone is for the non existent sub woofer in the tray. (that is next in my plans.

The 4 pin Molex plug on the sound board (J1) Pin #1 is white w/ blue stripe is the left speaker facing the machine.

Pin #2 is green, of course the ground.

Below pin #1 is the white w/green stripe is for the right speaker facing facing the machine,

Beside that is the green, ground wire.


The tray speaker, 2 pin molex  J5, is white w/yellow stripe and green w/yellow stripe.

Hope this helps.


Ron (r273)
 
<edit>  Look in Electronic Diagrams & Parts: Vision/S-2000 Upright manual page 146.

Thanks
I had to make my own harness for the speakers

Eventually I will try to get the original ones from someone on here.

For Future Reference when the stereo test is done
The sounds are Left, Right and Tray speaker in that order. I do not have the tray speaker but Can still hear it (lower volume in the main speakers)

I did reference the vision top speaker diagrams probably the same as the S2000 versions but none stated which is left or right.
I had figured that Channel A is left and Channel B is right.

"I had figured that Channel A is left and Channel B is right."

You are correct. The diagrams are for S-2000/Vision so they are pretty close to the S2000.

Ron (r273)

I rerouted the printer harness from the reel shelf to the top box.
Removed my custom harness for the printer
I saved the harness that came with the printer.

Thanks to Bob P. (Samron Slots)
The S2000 almost has 2 complete top boxes.
I think I have a bad amplifier.
I was hearing the tray speaker test in my main speakers.

When I replaced the amp with the one I got from Bob in use I cant hear it anymore.

Soon it will have a tray speaker.

I still need another netplex cable.

Now to locate that spare candle, fan, fluorescent light harness. It it was made from the vision version.

I have a spare candle you can have.

coorslight115 Tbank you!

Glad to help ! :71- :91-

Now if  ever get the chance to play with vision stuff HINT HiINT

I got the tray back with speaker from Buzz,
What a difference it makes (I like the bass only from the tray
I tried the full range from the 3 pin connector it added too much volume, and I could not go any lower than 1.

I am still pondering converting it to the short reel glass and installing the multi-denom touchpad parts.
The printer will have to stay in the top box.
I am not a metal worker nor do I have the tools or such to do it.

Swapped out the motherboard and 504B MPU for new to me 1270 Enhanced board.
It was a small chore.

Those connectors got closer to the MPU cover.

Turning around the Comm connector did not help either.

Are you saying that the design of the newer motherboard makes things a little harder to plug into?
Sounds like a little bit of a screwed up design huh?
It's not like there's enough stuff to plug into that board! lol

They moved the connectors a bit closer to the cover so you have to unplug them before extracting the cover
The communications board connector got rotated 180 degrees.
So the ribbon cable has a twist in it now.
Unless some one can send me the newer version.

And it can theoretically handle 15 reels. 3 connectors with 5 reels each.
That would either be one tall or wide machine

Chip Info
Game Chips    SG000598
Base Chip       SB100026
Version Chip    VS011GX1
Sound SIMM    DSV00022

Yes it will allow $100000 BV limit. I didnt try any higher since all I still have is a 5 5 2 display
I want a 6 6 3 so bad.

Foster, you should be able to find a 6-6-3 fairly easily. Did you try LA Slots? I bought a few from them at a good price. they have a parts email. I can pm it to you. Don't want to post it in the open for spam.
-T

That will work.
I would have to acquire some other parts to completely go to the short reel glass.

I'll tell you what...I wanted a 6-6-3 "bad" :184-  too and got one last year.
I'm not too, too thrilled about it really...  :5-

Pros:  Nice to display larger numbers for penny amount games.  :89-

Cons: The digits are much smaller and a touch little bit offset to the right hand-side.  :60-

If you're accustomed to the 5-5-2 display - you'll notice this right away  :7-
and it just doesn't look too good unless you use a slightly darker
shade of red plastic over the display.

Since I couldn't find one - so,  :299- I used a piece of light shade of auto-tint plastic/vinyl sheet
behind the red plastic which now looks pretty good.  :89-

What I haven't tried when swapping games is whether or not the 6-6-2 display
is backwards-compatible with the 5-5-2 games?  :103-  :128- :129-

Not to hijack but have you noticed that with the 598's the credit/rollup is a bit slower?

It rolls up faster on the big wins, havent noticed it on the small wins.

I haven't had any problems with it lining up and they are just a tad smaller. Sounds like you need to adjust the meter or you glass. I have a long reel version and a short reel version you can go either way you want Foster.  Also bunker they are the only ones that work with multi denom touch panels which are very nice in my opinion. They have also worked in every game I have put in including s Plus themes. So I would say yes.
-T

Oh I agree with you Morspeed - I really like the touchscreen too.
I will putting back together my machine really soon and I will look into the possible mis-alignment
of my display glass as I'm using the short reel glass-type..

I really want to test a 6 6 3 and touch pad setup.

I just tested a second 1270 MPU and legacy I had I bought it not knowing if they worked or not.
MPU works it has a dead battery and a broken attendant switch
Legacy adapter has a damaged gme 3 or 4 socket but also works.
now to find a switch or add something to it, the button is broke off below the switch housing but still operates.

This tip is for those with the speaker in the tray

When you go to install the tray instead of holding it level and plumb.
Tip the top towards you so the bottom touches the machine first, you will clear the connector that way.

I took that connector off and just connect by hand. It never connected right and I always had to mess with it. I actually cut a notch off of the tray just enough so I can slide the MPU board out without removing the tray at all. When I work on the machine or have to key chip it gets annoying to have to remove the tray all the time. :89-
-T

Excellent little mod morspeed!  :3-
I really like the little improvements made to our toys!  :89-
I wonder if there's room to move the whole MPU tray/cage unit upwards enough to clear the coin tray?
Probably not, but I'll have to take a look at mine later this evening and see what's possible...

NOW THAT'S AN IDEA. :3-

Cons: The digits are much smaller and a touch little bit offset to the right hand-side



This is because you have the wrong Reel Glass for the 6-6-3 Display, the 6-6-3 uses a different part number Reel Glass and has wider windows, also you will usually have a different color window for the VFD (Pink vs Blue), just another part needed to make it "correct"

What can I say, the man is right.
-T

Okay, good info Blue!  :285-
 :277- Now I gotta shop around...  
More stuff to get... :72-

I have been trying this for a few days.

I was trying to find blue LED's to fit the S2000 buttons, I know someone on here found them but i cant find the info.

So I did it using the blue insert from a candle.
I think it worked out nice.
The pictures do not do it justice

I also changed the game to Wild Cherry.
I know it will become RW&B for a couple weeks around 4th of July now that would be kit to acquire for the S2000, if they made a Base chip for it.

Great pics and great idea K+

Superbrite has the blue LEDs

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fmini-wedge.html (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fmini-wedge.html)

The candle looks great, I did the same thing to one of my S2000 machines a while back to get a green "change denom" button

Thanks for posting cruisepl . I got some bulbs from them before but I lost their site.
Ford  :259-

5.00 for one bulb? Surely you can find them cheaper than that.

I Bunkerized my Wild Cherry strips

They are either S+ or Vision Strips Not sure which since they normally have a gray back and can be back lit but you see light through the white areas as well.

So I decided a Sharpie  and a Magnum marker would make them more like S2000 back lit strips.
They turned out nice.

A couple of thing I have done to the machine lately

Topper: I got tired of it tilting back at the top with the current mount
Installed the original bracket that comes with the topper (still looking for machine half of the mount)
Bought a 4"x4"x2" clear box from Container Store drilled and painted it flat black so it can hide the wires and the mounting system
Looks better than electrical tape wrapped around the topper bracket.

Moved the printer from top box into main cabinet, didn't even have to remove the award glass - FutureLogic Gen2 Printer
I had to break off the cabinet optic mount and change the cherry switch mount, I had the right bracket to place it just below the printer

The printer mount is attached to the right side and PS to back wall with VHB Tape.

My machine will not move around on the stand so any bumping will not affect the power supply or printer, I bolted it down a few months back.