New Life Games Tech Forums

Last night I installed a complete Light Reel Kit. All went well, an easy install everything worked. However in just a short time (approx 2 minutes) the reels started to slow down to a crawl. :279- The candle started flashing and I received the message call attendant with a reel malfunction error message. I checked all the connections, all were good.  :103- so I proceeded to uninstall the complete light reel kit and reinstall my old non light reels and harness. So basically putting the machine back the way it was. I powered it back up and the reels spin a steady slow speed and I get (2 ) messages 1. door open (it is closed) 2. Bill validate mismatch. :103- Now the machine is non functioning. Can anyone help me? with this problem or offer any suggestions?

try opening and shutting main door a couple of times to clear the 2 errors.  Door open - make sure the latch on door is down all the way.
If the reels are spinning real slow, open door and trurn reset key to right one time.

Sounds like you might have had a reel rubbing the door, make sure reels are pushed all the way back, you should be able to llook throught reel glass and see a reel that is rubbing.

Good luck

 :212- I was told some time ago that s2000 error codes are "stacked" -
so you have to open and close the door for each error.

If the above checks don't clear the problems - you can try this>>>

It does appear that all the symptoms you're having are pointing
to a dying out power supply?
The power needed to run the reel lights killed it?  :128-
Try swapping the PS supply where the reels are plugged into
with a known good one and let us how that works!

Thank you very much! I reset the door 2x, the wheels kept spinning slow, I turned the reset key one time to the right. Problem fixed!Now I am still leery to reinstall the light reel kit but am willing to give it another try unless anyone thinks different.

Re-install backlit reel kit, make sure reels are clear when door is shut.  If the reels start spinning slow again look to see what error meassages you have.  It could be that the door optics is breaking.  Adjust as necessary.  With reels spinning if you pull up slightly on the latch and it tilts the machine then you need to adjust optics.
Good luck

Thanks

I'm glad you got it running again. :3-
It seems that rjpohl is guiding you along great! :89- ...just follow his instructions and
you should have your back lit lights running like a charm! :71-

Just an update: I reinstalled the Light kit reels. Worked fine again for just a couple minutes before the reels slow down again and gave a reel malfunction error. The reels were not rubbing the reel glass. I noticed that one of the reels would power up and down when ever I wiggled the harness even though they were securely fastened. I am betting that either a faulty reel or harness is causing all these problems. I ordered a replacement kit. Hopefully that will take care of these problems.

Question: Those reels are a bear getting to slide off. They are such a tight fit I have torn up both my hands taking them on and off. Would it hurt to put a little white lithium grease in the 3 reel tracks? or is there another trick or suggestion?

edison

wow! You found the problem!
When you "wiggled the harness" - power was intermittent with a reels !!
That means somethings dreadfully wrong with the harness at the connectors most likely!
Really inspect the pins in the reel Molexes on that harness -
I'm almost certain that there's a bad ground with one of them.

Knagl, I believe, said it perfectly one day as he was helping out someone.
Gently pull on each single wire near the connector where it goes in there.
You can defintely feel the plastic covering come back if the wire is broken inside of it
and not fully attached or crimped to the male pin or receptor pin.
If the cover moves, there's a good chance that the wire has come loose from the crimp inside.
That's why you get power to the reels when you move or wiggle the harness.

I carefully pry the reels out with a long screw driver. I would not put any grease on the reel tray, grease attracts dirt.  Besides it's not the reel to tray that's the problem it's the reel electrical plug, and I shouldn't call that a problem, I'd rather have a electrical plug to tight  than to loose.

It might be worth a shot to replace the one backlit reels (the one where you wiggled the wires and noticed a difference) with a non-backlit reel..  If the problem goes away then it's a bad reel, if not it's a wiring harness or board issue.

Edison

I found that my hands got beat up as well. I tried leather gloves and only got bruises and no nicks. :)

What I found that worked best fo me was to take a dish towel and fish it though the "handle" on the reel. Making a loop and grabbing the loop, placing my knuckles on the tray rocking my hand towards me, while using my other hand as a stop / resistor I got them out without injury to myself or to the machine.

 - Dorrothy

?

My reels are not that difficult to pull loose from it's Molex connectors but
it's hard for me to say because I have fairly strong hands and fingers.
If I were to to have too much difficulty removing the reels - I'd place a very light
bit of lubricant onto the plastic Molex male ends and work the Molex plugs a
few times to spread the lubricant around inside the connectors.

Make sure you use something that's NOT conductive such as the stuff they use in
automobile fuse boxes that are located in the engine compartment area.
This stuff ( ask your local auto parts retailer guy) doesn't degrade plastics nor is conductive.
Do not use OIL!
Like Buzz said, it WILL attract dust but you only very lightly coat the male part of the Molex
that goes inside of the female housing - you ought to be okay.
Don't get any on the metal pins though.

These are all GREAT ideas. I see now that it wasn't just me who has had difficulty removing the reels. I am going to try all your suggestions. This New Life Games forum is absolutely the best for us newcomers. I really enjoy this great hobby, especially with all the help I am receiving. This is really great and I do appreciate it!

Thank you again for all your answers....................

Edison

I REALLY like Buzz's way of removing the reels with the help of a long screwdriver very much!  :89-
But like he said....be very careful or you'll break the plastic reel housing.

I've run into this same problem a few times.  Problem has always been as Stout mentioned the harness has a short in it.  It's very hard but possible to locate the culprit, and a good indicator is the back-lit bulbs fading in and out of light.

Today I was working on the belly fluorescent lights on an S+.
When I turned the light over and sat it on top of the open belly door & turned on the power -- it lit up.
So I put the screw back on & close the door & turn on the power - no go.
I like puzzles...lol
I replaced the whole lighting unit with another and it works fine fine.
I took the suspect lighting to my bench.

As I scoured the wiring I could not find anything wrong with them.
There was not one cut.
I snipped off all the old dried out plastic ties and thoroughly inspected the wiring.
I found NOTHING wrong with it.
That's when I threw a multi-meter set to continuity on it and began checking every wire at both ends.
As I twisted the wire or sort of pushed the two ends together somewhat - the multimeter registered continuity.
Inside the wire and hidden from the covering - was a break!

Goes to show that "you cannot judge a book by it's cover"...  :72-


ADD:>>> oh! The break was in the wiring where the plastic cover was hardened
and brittle from the heat of the fluorescent tube right where they come through
the back of the fluorescent panel through the grommet.
The wire should have been "white" at one time but now was almost brownish in color
from the heat it was taking from the fluorescent tube.

Bunker    In most cases if the copper is broken inside the insulation the insulation will be real flexable at the point of the break.

I agree Buzz...
I gently pull on the covering if possible to see if it stretches a bit...if so, it's probably busted.
It's much easier to find the break nearest to the pin crimp but very difficult out in the middle of the line.
The only way is to check for continuity with a multi-meter at both ends
and twist the wire to see if the meter moves.

Buzz, when I slide the bar back and forth under your avatar it looks like you're dancin' :72-

 :97-

http://www.youtube.com/v/7K2Go6tHoEY?fs=1&hl=en_US (http://www.youtube.com/v/7K2Go6tHoEY?fs=1&hl=en_US)