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Wat's the difference?  When did the quite making EM and start making E series?

e/m have relays - coils - blade switches - E-series replaced those devises with electronic circuits.

They made the Bally E-Series from 1980-1986 I beleave. The Bally EM machines were from the earlie to mid 1960's till around 1981...

So, Is this S/N an EM or an E Series ?

1090-1937

The EM series was first introduced in 1964.



The 1090 is an EM game, but I'm not sure it they would have used the same number for an E version. I may be wrong, but I think the E machine model numbers start with an "E".
Basically, if you see any computer boards in the machine, it's an E.  As Foxsslots said, EM's have no computer components at all.

OK. Thanks.

I'm not sure if I want to get into an EM game, maintenance-wise.

Once they're working they're not that hard to maintain. If they aren't played for a while, you might have to perform some minor maintenance. For example, some of the contacts might need a gentle cleaning, or the payout counter reset might get sticky, or the kickers might get sticky.  It all depends on how clean the machine is. It sounds like more work than it is.

Remember that just like the S+, these machines were workhorses built for 24/7 casino play, and they were made back when things were built to last.

I really like my two EMs and wouldn't mind owning more.

We'll, let's see.....

How much would you like another one.

Seriously, though, Do you know if the contacts are coated or non-coated  in this model ? I'm asking because it's some miles to go look at it and don't like to be dis-appointed.  :8-

Coated ones must be cleaned by a solvent, not an abrasive like sandpaper / Emory Board, yet some people do. ( Translation = I did before I knew )  :30-

Once they are cleaned with an abrasive, they arc through the scratches and build up carbon which eventually prevents the coated surfaces from mating and a failed circuit. :103-

EM blade contacts are seated, do get carbon build up under normal use, and no, you don't use solvent or abrasive on them. If they require cleaning, an extremely mild abrasive can be used, but only very gently, and never on one of the domed surfaces. The book recommends crocus cloth, but our experts might have a better solution. Usually, one adjusts only one side of the contact by making very slight changes to the blade (bending).

However, once adjusted, I don't think that they fail too often. I mostly have issues with the fingers on the reel wiper arms failing to make good contact every once in a while. I've hardly ever had to mess with the blade switches. I've also had to adjust the payout counter finger contacts and 0 reset from time to time.

Of course, there is no way of knowing what condition a machine for sale is going to be in until you inspect it, and I'm definitely not qualified to advise you. My experience is limited to my two machines, although I've owned them for over 16 years, so I've had to perform my share of maintenance on them. Still, we have experts here that know far more than I do about the EMs, including Foxsslots, oldreno, Op-Bell, and a few others.


<ADD> To quote one of our experts, "There is nothing on an EM that you can't fix."  Still, they're not for everyone.

Remember on a em there no boards to send out for repair , and 99% of the trouble you can fix your self   go for the em

I am working on a Bally 1090 and need a schematic as a resistor on the left side of the reel mechanism is burnt and broken and has been removed, I would like to replace it and where does it go? Thanks