New Life Games Tech Forums

 :103-The machine was manufactured in 1987 it is a
IGT Jackpot Devil at first I was getting  a CMOS error and was told
to replace the battery which I did and that fixed the CMOS error I can
put machine into adjustment mode I was told next step was to use a
Ram clear chip as when battery dies the board loses its data and has
to be cleared out.I bought Ram clear chips off EBAY and they don't work
for my type of slot machine can anybody help me figure this out.
Thanks for any help you can give. :208-

Exactly what error code numbers were showing on the display?

CMOS error, was this spelled out on a display on the bottom of the reels glass  alpha numeric display?   never heard of a "jackpot devils" in a S or S+ game.  Is this a M slot machine?

Jim.

Ooh, ooh, I know, I know.  It's a 4-reeler, S or very early S+ (or at least it was also made as an S+, as I have SP051, and SS3364 - SS3368 in the list as supporting it).

 :211- :211- :211- :211- :211-

I've never seen one in person -- just an old black and white scan of the paytable glass.  Please, PLEASE post some pictures of your machine!  Thanks!

He has a military machine?

cmos error is no longer displayed after using reset chip there is a 0 in the coin display.But now I can move through settings just dint know what else to do reset the rest of the machine the direction from the reset chips do not work on the type of slot machine.

James-

Any chance you can post a few pictures of the inside and outside of your machine to help us confirm exactly which model machine you have and how to clear it.

...not to mention some of us (at least me) would love to see the kit you have in there.  :71-

 :211-

Thanks!

knagl,  you are right   I looked in my bible last night,  its a 4 reel 3 coin mult.   it has SS numbers for the chips so.... maybe a S+. 

I have the picture, same black and white you have.  Paytable 111  SP051  states that its required for extra time to let the fourth reel spin.

Jim

Well it looks like there was no help here when someone whats photo's before they will help.

Not the case,  do you know how many different types of slot machines IGT has produced?  you haven't been giving us a lot of information either. we THINK YOUR MACHINE  is a S+ model.  How did you know that you had a cmos error?  how could you order a clear chip if you don't know the type of machine you have? cmos error doesn't need to be reset  using a reset chip. I never heard of a reset chip.  perhaps your confused and your calling a clear chip a reset chip.

Is your machine a four reel machine?  what is the part number of the logic board?  what are the numbers on the game and data chips?  what type of reset chip did you buy? why didn't the directions work? if they didn't work how did you clear the cmos error?

Give us some information so we could help you. 

have you tried to operate the machine?  it may work and you could be good to go.

With all due respect, we don't even for sure know what model of machine you have -- photos (no apostrophe) of your machine would help us to determine whether you have an S or S+ and would make a difference as to how to get your issue resolved.  You've told us you have a 1987 IGT machine.  That's like telling a car mechanic that you have a 1987 Buick, but not telling them what model your Buick is.

The more you can tell us, the more we can help you.  Pictures tend to tell a lot more about a machine than the description by someone who isn't terribly familiar with slot machines.  Many of us here are nice people willing to help other nice people, but again the more information provided about the problem, the more information that the members here can provide towards a solution.

On top of that, most of the members here are collectors or fans of different slot machines, and enjoy seeing images of other machines, especially when it comes to harder to find games like the one you have.  If you don't want to post a picture, that's your prerogative, but keep in mind that you're not paying for a service here, and it's not in your best interest to make things difficult for the people who can potentially help you.

James,
There's no such thing as a "Reset" chip.
I've heard of a "Reset Key" and a "Clear chip".

Because you said this, we know you're a noobie.
So that's why we asked you for a couple pictures.

I need to see one of the outside front of the machine and one good photo of the the guts.
We are waiting for more info from you so we can
help you get your machine up and running like it's supposed to be!

If you don't want to put up a couple of pictures...then don't.
You are NOT REQUIRED.
But you're going to have to be very, very descriptive in what you are saying with better details
and you must try to spell correctly if possible.
The computer you're using I'm sure has a spell checker program that you can activate?

Capeesh? Understand? We are only here to HELP YOU!




Remember, "The more you tell us - The more we'll tell you.."


Right now, it's a GUESSING game as to what you did to your machine
 and WHAT model of machine you have...
A couple of pics will solve many, many questions....believe me.

Hi
I'm the one Dennis was posting for on the Jackpot Devil IGT SLot
And as he said in the display directly under the reels I was getting a error
4 letters CMOS I replaced the battery and pushed reset and error went away
there is now a 0 being displayed at the coins in. Iwash told the next step was
to installl a Ram clear chip to reset machine which I bought from dennis when
I put chip in and tried to reset I got no #s in display. I thought chip was defective
sent it back to Dennis he tested and said it was okay. Here are some pics of Machine
Thanks for ny help you can give me.  John

sorry about link try this one

Sorry His name was James not Dennis

Hi John, Welcome to  :nlg-. 

That's a nice looking unique machine you have, hopefully someone will be able to help you get it going again.  It seems to be a M slot and a S slot hybrid of some type, hence the M/S slot designation on the ID tag, but I've never seen one before.  It has the mechanical reels of the M slot, but the MPU board is closer to a S or S+ board than a M slot MPU. 

The front part of the MPU board was cut off in your photo.  Are there any pushbutton switches on it?  Here's what the manual for a M slot says to do if you get the CMOS display:

a) Turn machine off
b) Clear CMOS Ram by depressing the switch on the CMOS board (CMOS board is on a daughterboard on a M slot MPU)
c) Turn Machine On.  Display will read TILT CALL ATTENDANT.
d) Depress option selection switch on the master board (MPU) until reels start spinning
e) Close main door

I don't think you need a clear chip for it (if there is one).  The CMOS would have cleared when you replaced the battery. 

What socket did you put the clear chip in that you had?  Make sure the original chip is re-installed properly, pin 1 where it should be, and that no pins got bent when you installed it. 

If you have a pushbutton switch on the the MPU board try starting at step c and see what that does.

Even more interesting is that the MPU board is easy to remove like an S+ (it has the slide-in tray and sockets), versus the S MPU board which used harnesses with plugs that had to be removed.

Thank you for the pictures -- let us know how Tilt's suggestions work out for you.

Wow, I've never seen a machine like that.  :131- :3-

In closeup pictures 2 & 3, you removed a white sticker from the 256k EPROM in U2? (U21 ? - just below the c15 label on the board . It can be seen in picture 13. Does that sticker have any writing on it?  (Maybe RS####) :128-

Threads merged and moved from the Tech Talk board to the IGT M Slot board.

P.S. I believe that this is an M+. They had removable boards like the S+. The M boards were located in a card cage.


StatFreak :31-
:nlg-  Global Moderator

The Sticker has # RS5125 does that help?
I tried the procedure that Tilt posted with no
luck. I can bring up adjustments and tests on the
menu but can't play it or get it to take quarters.
Thanks for any help you can give me

Closing the door should reset the machine wipe off what you're seeing from the display.
By the way, cool display!
Make sure the door latch is fully closed to get the coin mech to accept coins.

What kind of a coin mechanism is it using?
If it's one with a coin comparator, does it have a sample coin in it?


Below is a photo I've doctored to show you the volume knob location which we can't really see.
Please cover up the UV opening on the eprom with a piece of colored tape...
If any light gets in there - it will screw up the data in the chip.

I just put more shots of the inside of game and a more detailed
photo of game board. Hope this helps.

yes it does!
I see you have a quarter in the coin comparator as a sample coin.
Now we gotta get the coin mech to work.
I'm suspecting the door optics or door cherry switch isn't working.

ADD>>> this looks busted up.
I can't tell if it's a fuse holder or a button and whether or not it goes into that bottom hole...>>>

Bunker beat me to it.  :37-  :96-  :72- :72-

Once that (fuse?) is fixed...   I also noticed that there is a button on the optic board, although it's a little different from the newer ones. Once the first issue is fixed, you might try pressing that button with the door open to see if it adds credits. If it does, try pressing the spin button to play them.

The chip I asked you about contains the program and reel information that drives your game. I would DEFINITELY keep the sticker over the UV window, and I would also suggest backing up the chip with a burner, if you know someone who has one, as that chip is probably not replaceable due to the rarity of the game.

To my best guess it is not a Fuse holder it clicks in when you push on it
If you look to the left I had to drill out the lock as machine came with
 no keys. This button is in addition to the regular Test button mounted on
MPU case.

Okay, so it's not a fuse...maybe.
I still think it's some type of a breaker fuse...the kind that click in but I'm not sure.
I wonder what it was for then?

There's only two wires on it...cut them from the orange holder, strip some cover off,
wire them together and tape it up with some electrical tape.
Then close the door and try dropping a few quarters and tell us where the quarters are going.
I want to know if the quarters are falling back into the tray, into the hopper or the drop hole.

Bunker, it could be another reset or test button. We have a few members who have some knowledge of the M+. It might be a good idea to hear what they have to say. Perhaps we could see if there is something about that button in the manual.  :79-

It looks to be the remains of a keyswitch to me, like a jackpot reset switch or something, but those are normally on the outside of the machine.  Does the machine do anything other than display a "0" in the display?  No other messages like Tilt Call Attendant?  

If it's just the two wires then the circuit to the switch was either normally open, closed, or momentary.  Cut them off the remains and you can try it all three ways and see if that does anything for you.  

Do you have pushbuttons near the interior power switch?  If so, what are they labeled as?

As far as switch's inside machine there is a test switch which I have
used on the front of the board metal case. I do have a Jackpot reset
switch on the Right hand side of cabinet. I bought that key. The switch
that is at the bottom of metal case refferd to  in picture shown probably was behind the
lock I drilled out to get the board out. As to what it does I do not know

You have a vintage M+ machine, like I said in an earlier post that there were only a few types of IGT machines that actually spelled out the codes.

the test button for your machine is the one middle way up on the card cage outer frame. its the only white test button there. 
the key switch which you drilled out did not have to be drilled out, its a security card cage key operated switch.  if there was a lock on the cage it would have been in a different location and attached to the motherboard. with the door open you should be able to press the white test button and see the tests come up in the display window. I think the first test is the inputs test. I can't remember if you can scroll thru the tests with the buttons or you have to use the reset key switch? I believe everytime you press the white button it should advance to the next test.
What exactly happens when you apply power,with the door shut. do the reels attempt to spin ? do they spin and lock in place? tell us EXACTLY what you observe and what goes on.
Bunker, yes that is one of the first optics, with the 555 timer on it. if you clip out CR-1 it will do the same thing as Q-2 or Q4.  also the test button will put credits on the machine when it is operating correctly.
I'll have to look at the manual this evening to see if the key switch will affect anything!.
It wouldn't hurt to operate the machine in both states to see what happens, meaning clicked in and unclicked and observe if anything changes.


Jim
 

Oh yeah...These puppies are old...lol
dated 1984...still works too!

Back at work will get back to slot and report update
Thanks for all the helpful replys

I posted a new pic of what is comming up in display I cannot slot to
add coins via the switch under coin comparitor I am not getting
any other messages have tried restets to no results.
http://s403.photobucket.com/albums/pp120/john041160/ (http://s403.photobucket.com/albums/pp120/john041160/)

Look below....

by the picture you posted, you appear to have a problem in the first reel, I would try unplugging the reel and reseating it, if that does not clear it, switch reels 1 & 2 and see if the problem follows the reel. If I am not mistaken the button for adding credits does not function with an active tilt on the machine (not 100% sure on this)

 :212-

That "No Spin 1" is saying that the machine isn't seeing reel 1 spinning (is it when the machine is powered up?).  I think Firebird's ideas are good.  Turn the machine off, unplug reel 1 and then re-plug it in, turn the game on, and see what you get.  Any information shown on the displays is VERY important in troubleshooting what your machine is doing, so please be sure to continue to let us know what you're seeing (either with pictures, or with a text description of the message(s) you get).

Deja Vu

Please try to keep all of the posts about this issue in one thread so that members don't end up chasing tandem discussions.

Thanks,

Stat :31-



Kevin: :259-

Stupid question I guess but is reel one on the left or the right
of machine. And does anyone have a PDF file of the service manual
for the M series slot they could Email me??

                               Thanks

Reel 1 should be the leftmost reel.
Funny, your post made me think of the bomb squad.

"Cut the Blue Wire!   No!   Cut the Red Wire!!"

Nobody even has a machine like yours...I'd suspect that the manual is even rarer...
But to tell you the truth...I'll wager that Rocket has one somewhere.

I have a machine similar to yours in my shop. you cannot swap out the reels, you can swap the reel kickers. you can grasp the handle like arm on the kicker and pull it towards you . this will release the kicker so it can be pulled out of the reel assembly.  you can swap them with each other and see if the problem follows the kicker. when you have it out there are a few things you could do to it. on the front of the unit there should be a round wheel, made of a cork type substance, compare it to the others. you can push up on it and it will reset the mechanical linkage. press down on the second solenoid and it will pull that linkage down, its that action that spins the reel.  reset again, press first solenoid it should send the prongs up to a different height. if all this works , then that's good. sometimes the linkage is gummed up and you don't get the snap action to spin the reels. this will give you a "slow spin" error. the no spin error usually means the machine doesn't see the reel optics change ,so it thinks the reel isn't spinning. the optics are located in the "u " shaped fork on the top of the linkage.  try this and see what you come up with.


Jim

The M and the M+ used the same type of reel assemblies and reel kickers.  Pictured is a "M" model machine, as STAT said in reply #18  boards are located in the card cage above the reels.       Jim

Thanks Jim

I pulled the reel assembly out last night and found a bunch of cork under the assembly
I wondered what it was doing there. I'm assuming I need those cork rings on all the
reel kickers?? and where do they belong ?
                                                       Thanks
                                                         John

that's not unusual to see that , unfortunately  that part is no longer made, people have been substituting a metal bearing in its place.  they go on the front of the kicker, its the only part that extends beyond the unit opposite the handle part. its attached with a "C" ring.  you probably have a gray piece of plastic remaining on the stud.  that what's left after the cork falls off. without this the reels cannot reset and spin the reels. 


Jim

Jim could point me in the right direction to find the
replacement bearings.    Thanks for the help on this.

The bearings people were using were from old Bally E-series hoppers.    there size: 1/4"ID X 3/4" OD  and 1/4" wide.

You could contact FOXSSLOTS1, a member on this site, he may have them for sale.


Jim

I got the bearings from Fox Slots they go on real hard any tricks
to installing them WD 40 ?

Throw the bearings in a plastic bag in the freezer.

Mark   Freezing or heating the bearing depends on what part of the bearing is fitting tight.   Bearing to housing, freeze the bearing  Bearing to shaft, heat the bearing in a oven, or freeze the shaft.

I knew it was something like that....lol
Thanks Buzz!
I had to freeze my motor bearings to get them into a housing
on a motorcycle engine I rebuilt once.

Bearings are on and I am the getting no spin 1.
I moved kicker to second reel to see if problem followed
it did not error is the same no spin 1

Are the reels physically spinning before/during the "no spin 1" error?  Is the error on the screen as soon as you turn the machine on (like it needs to be reset to try again), or is it spinning the reels but then giving you that error?

The reels do not spin they all get bumped like they are
being prepped but they do not spin at all

you have to operate the kickers out of the machine manually, the reason: so you see how they work in the machine. the bearing linkage resets the kickers so they can spin the reel. after the linkage is reset the back solenoid fires pushing the prong up into the star wheel on the reel itself, then the front solenoid fires and pushes that star wheel to spin the reel. make sure all actions are quick and easy, if not then it will cause an error.
even though the machine is in the tilt mode you should be able to enter into the test  mode. there are three buttons on the panel where the power on/off switch is located. a test button a reset button, and a cursor button.  press the test button, you will see inputs test on the display, press the cursor and advance to the optical test, you can now turn the reel and see if the 0 changes to a 1 and back, as the reel turns. this will test the optic and comm with the logic board. press the test button again, the output test should appear, using the cursor advance to the start solenoid test , do those then the stop test , this will test the two solenoids for there proper operation. press the test again and go to the reels diagnostic tests and start that test. this should tell you what works and what is broke.

Jim