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I have a Bally e2090 Quarter Slot Machine that does not work…. I am trying to determine what the problem is:
 
With the hopper in the Slot machine the controller board LED does not light up (not sure if it suppose to).
 
When I do get the machine to register the quarters and am able to pull the handle I can get the wheels to turn they just will not latch.
 
So now when I turn the machine and put a credit on it I get the TILT  light and a display 20 .0.00  in the
 
All and any help is greatly appreciated…

Hi.. Your display is showing a code 20, that means there is a coin switch jam. Check the coin switch on the front door under the coin acceptor to see if it is working. Lets get that code cleared before we address the reels not stopping. That could be a bad reel reader board. Do you have a manual for the Bally E-Series machines? I've attached a list of malfunction codes at the bottom of this post. If you can buy your self a manual for this machine. It will have a lot of useful information on how to use the slot machine to help you determan whats wrong with it using the different maintenance tests built in it... Foxsslot offers one, here's that link...

http://cgi.ebay.com/BALLY-E-SERIES-OPERATORS-MANUAL-/150408036611?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2305048103 (http://cgi.ebay.com/BALLY-E-SERIES-OPERATORS-MANUAL-/150408036611?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2305048103)

Thanks I will get back to you......

OK, so I got the error code 20 problem corrected, I was applying credits manually with finger..... (both door switches are closed so I can work on the machine) after clearing the error 20 I dropped 3 quarters in and each quarter registered by a tone. Now the handle will not pull, I imagine that is because the solenoid will not engage.

Did you reset the machine using the hopper control board buttons? You should have 2 test buttons/switch's on the top of the hopper control board. Push down the left one, then the right one, your machine should cycle the solenoids. Now close the door and try a coin and see what happens. If you had a manual I would have you run test 2. This test will run a output/load test of the machines solenoids, bulbs, coils, etc...

OK so I opened the door to the machine, pressed the reset button, I then pressed the second button. I did not here or see any of the coils cycle......

Any other suggestions?

P.S. I did check all my fuse with my digital MM (on beep mode)

Ok.. So your saying with the door open and the machine powered on, when you push the second button, the one on the right you don't here your machine reset? There should be a loud clunk as the reel solenoids cycle. With the door closed is there a number in the display? Should say 50.000 or 71.000. At that point you should be able to insert a coin and play the machine, if not then a new code should appear in the display... Try running test 2 by pushing the hopper control boards 1st button 2 times. your front display should show a 2 then start the test. The machine will cycle through the all the solenoids bulbs and coils. See if the handle coil/solenoid cycles. To stop the test close the door or push the 2nd button on the control board...

Followed your instructions and I get the following....

Open Door, turn machine on, after i press the reset button 2x the only thing that responds to the reset button is the relay behind the hopper, then the loud noise comes on till i close the door... I then use the outside key to clear the machine (from opening the door) and then get the 50 code on the display, I thought the 50 cod was door open?

Thanks for your help.... I can take video and upload to YouTube if that would help.

Mike   :103-:99-

 either you mistyped or did not understand the prior posts - the 2 test - runs the IO test - on the hopper the LEFT BUTTON is the RESET - the RIGHT BUTTON is the TEST.   
Turn machine on -  door open - key out of door lock.   Press the RESET button - then the TEST BUTTON  2 times -  the WIN METER on door will show 2 on the left and various numbers on the right as the test progresses - you will see the lights  activate and the various coils as well - If you do not hear any of the coils activate (divertor on door - handle relay - or the reels locking)  - then you are not getting 50v.
Make sure you have CHECKED the fuses  and the power supply. 

Code 50 is a door open code, but it doesn't clear until you insert a coin and play the game the first time. Will your machine now allow you to insert a coin and pull the handle?

I will recheck tonight after work, I will post pictures maybe......

The only fuses that I am aware of are the Block of fuses n the back of the machine and the fuse on the hopper.... is there any others I should know of?

You are correct, those are the fuses in the machine. There are 2 different power supplies. The transformer is your 50V source, and the circuit board one mounted on the back wall of the machine. That one supplies the 5v, the 7.5v, and the 10v used in the machine. You can check the voltage with your multimeter. I have attached a pic of the power supply and the contact points to check the voltages. Put the black lead to ground and the red to the voltage you want to check.

I think we are making some progress........ And thank you for the picture details,

I have all the Voltages on the powers supply per your picture and I was able to determine a fuse holder was bad with some further inspection.. I replaced the holder and fuse and now I get a Solenoid engagement when I press the TEST button, and when I drop quarters in the machine they are registered...... Now I pull the handle and the reels spin (very slow) but do not engage.

Any other suggestions?     :30-

Does the win meter diplay show a number in it? Were looking for a error code... As for the reels turning slow, maybe a drop or 2 of a light weight machine oil on the shaft were they spin.

Sop when I turn the machine on and drop the quaters in and pull the handle I get the following error codes

42 and a 2

reel reader 2 is malfunctioning (42) the 2 means you played 2 coins.  try switching readers - see if the symptom moves.

Awsome, I will make sure I will mark each reel reader so I will not get confused on whitch reader is what....

Thanks alot.   :131-

42 means that your second reel reader is not working correctly, and the 2 should be how many coins you played... If you move it to the 3rd reel and its bad you should get a number 43 code

Wow so far what a difference finding that bad fuse holder... Thanks for pointing me in power supply direction......

Now as mentioned before I am getting the reel error and took your advice on moving the reel op-to around to alternative locations, now what I keep coming up with is the reel 2 locks no matter what position the op-to boards are in an once in a while none of the reels lock.

This seems to be very erratic... And sometimes all three reels will lock....

Do you really think all tree op-to boards are bad? Maybe something else that I am not aware off.....

Leave it up to the experts.

Well I'm not an expert, but I have learned what I know from the people here and from the books I've read. You failed to mention where you moved the #2 reel reader too? Are you still seeing error codes in the win meter if the machines not working correctly? If the #1 reel readers bad you should see a code 41, for the 2nd reel it will be code 42 and for the 3rd reel it will be code 43. It is possible that you have more then 1 bad. It could be that they need to be cleaned or just readjusted. If the gap is too big or too small will affect how they work. Make sure they are straight, and parallel to the disk. This is something you will learn in time and with practice.

So with the advice of adjusting the opto's and thinking of the temperature of my garage I decided to leave the machine on for a few hours to warm up the insides for normal operating conditions.... Now the reels are locking in nicely...... No the hopper does not turn for a payout. The motor is not locked up I am able to turn the wheel (when the anti reverse lock is centered) I get the error 32 (Roller arm down too long)

Is there someway to test the hopper motor or controller board?

Almost there

Sounds like the Hopper control boards bad. The only way I know to test then is in another machine or with a meter one resistor and diode at a time. The MAC15-6 TRIAC usually go bad, it's a switch on the board, and I've found that the large diode on the top go bad. Both can be bought and replace for under $20.00. I've attached a pic with the parts circled in question. Once again these can be bought at Foxsslots. I've also attached the link to the parts needed... If I remember right you can test the motor by attaching 110v to the motor for a short time. I saw it in a post once but I could find it again today when I went looking for it, but don't quote me on this. I'd put my money on the board first if you can turn the hopper motor over.. If these machines are in a cold garage they need to be warmed up to work and test them. They don't like the cold...

 http://cgi.ebay.com/Bally-Slot-Machine-E-Series-1N5626-Diode-E-587-/160516388545?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item255f85b6c1

http://cgi.ebay.com/Bally-Slot-Machine-E-Series-MAC15-6-Triac-/150435337901?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2306a516ad (http://cgi.ebay.com/Bally-Slot-Machine-E-Series-MAC15-6-Triac-/150435337901?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2306a516ad)

Thank you for the information, that is a lot cheeper the $79.00 for a new hopper board.

Are Q1 Q2 and Q3 the same part # ?

Thanks Mike

I am back to the reels acting up. If I leave the machine on for an hour and it warms up the reels work, but if it sits and gets cold in the garage the reels stop working......... :279-

Q1 & Q2 I think are the same, check the writting on them. Q3 is the MAC15-6 TRIAC I replaced. The other 2 are the diodes I found to be bad too... Like I said before, these Bally E-Series don't work if they are cold. It's not a good idea to even turn them on if they are too cold. Same goes for TV's and anything that has circuit boards, at least that's how I was taught...

Hi Mantaramian.  Looks like you are making good progress with your old Bally.  As for your issue with the cold and the sluggish reels:  I'd suggest you remove the reel mech and thoroughly clean all the old lubricant out of it then relubricate the shaft.  You'll be supprised how nicely it will spin.

Cheers- Mark     

Thank you Mark..... I will do that next.....

I will keep everybody up to date.

I just got the Triac and diodes for the hoppercontroller board today.....

I have to wait till the kids go down night night......   :294-

Wow.. You got those parts i fast, did you order them from Barry Fox? I was able to find the diodes at my local electronics store, but they didn't have the Triac I needed...

My local electronics store had them in stock, they were NTE replacements..... $4.95

http://www.metro-electronics.com/ (http://www.metro-electronics.com/)

MAC15-6 Triac

NTE Replacement:
http://www.nteinc.com/specs/56000to56099/pdf/nte56004.pdf (http://www.nteinc.com/specs/56000to56099/pdf/nte56004.pdf)

I will let you know how it works........ I will try tonight...... Its getting a little late..... :103-

So after a few days later I decided to tear down the reel linkage.... Cleaned and lubed the linkage. No the reels lock in every time, cold or warm.

Now I tried to work on the hopper, I replaced the Triac and 2 diodes (the old diodes tested good) but when every time I hit a jackpot the hopper sounds like it is trying too turn and a few seconds later the hopper stops grinding and displays error 32 (Hopper empty (Roller arm down too long)).  :103- :103- 

Another thing I noticed is reel 1 does not line up with the pay line??? How does one calibrate the reels?  :99-

Glad the reels are turning better now.  There is no easy alignment for the reel and payline.  If it is not lineing up perfectly than the plastic reel strip is out of position on the reel.  They are crimped in place along the edge if the reels.  If you try to re-adjust yours be carfull you dont crack the reel strip or bend the reel edge out of wack.

As for your hopper-  What happens when you perform Test #4 is the Bally service manual?

Cheers- Mark

That seemas to be the million dollar question..... No Manual....

Well we'll just have to see what we can do about that...













 :172-

very helpful discussion