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I am trying to identify this machine??? It is currently for sale. The only problem with it is it is missing the Coin Comparitor. I tried to determine the voltage that would come to the harness but I do not get any power.....  :103-

I only checked DC voltage, I forgot to measure for AC voltage. :279-

I tried to determine where the power comes from but I could not find the switching power supply, does the power come from the board? If so, what voltage and type AC/DC power?

The guy only wants $250 not working and if I can fix it relatively cheap I will grab it.......

I tried looking up the model number with no luck. I am including 2 pictures Model number and board

10Mhz S+

The blue volume wheel gives it away.. non-working I'd offer $200 max

The voltage to coin comparator is 24VAC
if you do not have voltage there
There is a white plug near the right front of the motherboard (the board you have pictured is the MPU, which plugs into the motherboard)
unplug and make sure the connector there is making good contact with the pins.
Sorry but the S+ relies on a standard non switching power supply.
the big box under the BV only puts out 7-9VAC, 24-25VAC, and 120VAC, the 120VAC is Isolated it can still bite but not as bad 120VAC from an outlet does.

It depends on the part of the country you're in as to whether or not that's a good deal.  Does it have a bill validator?  What theme is in the machine (what's the "name" of the game in there)?  Those all have bearing on its value.

The dollar bill validator is present, the machine is a double diamond.

What is the part number of a 24VAC coin caparriator? and what does it look like? Will somebody upload a picture of one? Currently the gentleman told me he tried the coin caparriator from another machine and it didn't work, but then again he may of tried a DC coin caparriator.....

My win his loss, maybe I will clean his space for a $100 and take the machine off his hands :200-

Both of these comments bring up a good point. I was going to start a separate thread on the subject, and may still. It seems that some people think anything over XX$ is too much. But it really does depend on where you live. Around here, (even though home slots are legal) they are hard to come by local (without shipping). And $500-$800 for a complete working S+ in good condition is the norm. I was going to pay $300 for that Road Rally just for the spare parts. I did get it cheaper and it was working and in pretty good shape so I feel like I got a good deal even though I've now a total of about $325 in it. Maybe someone can buy one in just as good condition cheaper if you live outside of Vegas or something, but that is not the case everywhere.

Here's a picture of the coin comparator and coin-in optics you'll need for your S+! >>>

it depends on how bad you want the machine. to get a better understanding of what condition the machine is in, turn it on and look for the following! do all three fluorescent lamps come on? does the denom lamp come on (provided the bulb is good) you can swap the insert coin and coin accepted or the bill validator bezel lamps to see if it works. then see if the reels are locked (they don't spin freely) this will check all the power supplies/fuses. next see if there are any numbers on the display. pay attention to the winner paid  display, all failure codes are displayed here and a legend to what they mean is on the front door  light panel. if no failure codes, you should be able to test the machine by pressing the small white button on the optics board( directly beneath the missing coin comp.) this will put credits on the machine . you can test the machine several times in this mode. If it works then all you need is the CC-16 24vac . we could get the machine running .  you should also listen to the bill acceptor and note as to how it cycles and if the machine works, and with the door closed and ready to play , the yellow bv insert denom. should be on (provided the bulbs are good)  .this should tell you what condition the machine is in.

Jim

If the bill validator is the embedded kind that is in the metal below the player button panel (not next to the reel glass as if it were a 4th reel), then it for sure is an S+.  Even if it's not working now, parts are easy to find and fairly inexpensive, and the things are tanks once you get them up and running (and you will be able to get it up and running with the help of the great people on this site).  (You may have to purchase some parts to get it working, but you will be able to get it working.)

Firs of all I would like to thank everybody for you input......

So, for the time being the guy is trying to get the following coin compariator to work with his machine.... I don't dare to tell him this is the incorrect coin compariator....

From the descriptions I have seen posted this is a DC coin compariator???

Why is it incorrect? Of course it would help if it had a coin in it.

With it installed there is an error code 20, this is why I am thinking it is the incorrect Coin Comparitor. Is this Coin Comparitor  a AD or DC Coin Comparitor?

Two things:

1. Coin Comparators will never cause an error code on an S+.  Faulty coin-in OPTICS can, but the coin comparator cannot.

2. There is no such thing as an error 20 on an S+.  If the Winner Paid display is showing a 20, the machine likely just recently paid out 20 coins and is ready for a coin to be inserted.

Chances are good that the only thing "broken" on the machine is that there's no sample coin in the comparator, which is necessary for it to accept coins (right now coins inserted will likely just jam).  If you wish to negotiate the price with the seller, this would be a good time to not mention any of that to the seller, and then install a sample coin in the comparator when you get the machine home and enjoy your (likely) working machine.

As far as I can tell it it the correct comparator for a S+. But it has no coin in it (assuming it is a quarter machine). I don't know what error 20 is. Are you sure that is what it is?

This thread may help on the different comparators
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=9636.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=9636.0)


<edit> I am always a slow typer.  :96-

So I had a member Brianzz identify this machine as a 10MHZ S+ machine.  Do we all agree to this?

I am including another picture that may identify the machine. I am going to offer the guy $150 tonight to take it off his hands.....

If the 20 is the last pay out, how does one clear this?

Yes, it is a 10mhz S+
It appears to be missing the hopper unless you took it out to take the picture.
The last payout will clear the next time you play it.

I highly recommend that you find a cover for the power supply box.
A quarter dropped in there will short everything out and blow fuses if you're lucky...

I thought I'd been told once you can convert  an s+ ac comparitor voltage to dc by swapping the pigtail on the harness. I would think that rule of thumb would be if the plug on the harness matches the socket on the comparitor then it should work. That was supposedly the reason why the door harness and comparitor pigtail were separate pieces

That post blows my mind cowboy!  :5-

Changing pigtails would almost certainly do some sort of damage.
I don't know why coin comparators have them printed 24VDC on the cases
when if you look at the Suzo-Happs website - you'll see that the CC16's shown as 24VAC?

Then if you look carefully,
 they have it printed two ways on the coin comparator?

Underlined in red...The top one says 24VAC while in big print next to the sensitivity dial it shows it as 24VDC? lol
Confusing? yeah!
Click on photo to enlarge if needed! >>>

Below is an excerpt from the 1993 S+ manual.... :72-
Click on it to enlarge if needed>>>

Yes, it's an IGT S+ machine with a 10mhz board in it -- pretty standard fare.

There is nothing to "clear" as the last payout isn't an error.  It will go away the next time the game is played, until there's another payout.

Even the picture you posted earlier is confusing. :72-

Not sure how these work, but many electronic devices are designed to work off of AC or DC. They just put a bridge rectifier inside. If AC is applied, it will convert it to DC. If DC is applied, it just passes it.

Again I want to thank everybody for there input/help.......

I just feel a little bit more confused :103-

The coin comparitor that I have displayed is the one that I am not sure if it is the correct one, currently I am able to put the coin comparitor in a video poker machine and the led lights up and functions correctly with a coin in (my son took the quarter out when we were tinkering)

The cover was taken off the power supply to see if there was a switcher power supply in it. I was trying to find +5 or +12 at the moment not thinking there may be some AC voltage instead... I will check this weekend to determine the output....

I will also check the connector coming from the transformer on the logic board to make sure the connector is making contact....

For the moment is there anything I may be missing??? :208-

Maybe we need to back up and start from the beginning. When you turn on the machine with the door closed, what happens? If you open the door does anything change (i.e. the lights/LEDs)? Maybe not likely, but we need to make sure the door optics are working or the coin comparator won't do anything.

Does it have a hopper? Does the bill validator light come on, and if so, does it take bills? In other words can you play it at all? With the door open can you press that white button shown below and does it add a credit and let you play it?

If nothing is working tell us exaxctly what lights/LEDs are on and what they are doing (i.e. is the candle flashing, and if so what is flashing and is it slow or fast).

Thanks poppo,

I will complete my homework assignment this weekend.......

Let's back up even further.

Mantaramian, go back and read Jim's post (reply #7) and knagl's post (reply #12). If the machine passes all of Jim's tests, it is most likely a working machine or one that will need only minor repairs.

If you fix the machine before buying it, you'll only end up losing your deal and helping the seller. There is every indication that the only thing this machine needs is a coin in the comparitor. You can certainly try pressing the white button on the optic board with the door open to see if the machine coins up and plays, but if the seller is standing there...  :79-

Also, given your location, I wouldn't offer more than $150 unless it's a rare theme or you can determine that it's running or very close to it. Also check for a DBV200 head. If it has a DBV145, drop the price another $25-50 to cover upgrading the head and possibly the DBV PS. You can drive to AZ, NV, or the southern part of your state and you will find nice, clean S+ machines at great prices if you're patient. Just browse Craigslist for a while.

So, I have not forgotten about you all.... I just needed a weekend off to go fishing....... I should have satyed home insted.......

I just got back from checking the power to the Coin Comparitor, its 24V AC. Not I did take notice tot the candel above and made the following observation......

The White Light is flashing at a steady Flash (one that could be counted easly)

However the bottom Yellow Light flashes at a pace that is very hard to count.....

Other than getting the correct AC Coin Comparitor what else am I missing???

http://www.youtube.com/v/8RkN1LsQcb8?hl=en&fs=1






Edited to fix the Youtube code  -KN

The picture of the comparitor you posted is the correct one for the machine. Place a sample coin in it and try it.

That pattern indicates a tilt  or a all pays. That is why we need to know:
1. Door closed (make sure it's latched all of the way), power it up. What is displayed on the front and what is the candle doing?
2. Open the door. What is displayed on the front and what is the candle doing.

Ok, maybe a silly question because it's late, but with the door closed have you turned the reset key in case it's locked up in hand pay mode?

Also have you tried pressing that white button on the comparator to see if it puts a credit on the machine and you can play it?'

He already tried that earlier.

He has never posted that he has tried this in the S+ machine. He posted he tried it in a video machine and the LED was on.

I took this to mean he tried it in both machines with the coin. And we asked him several times about it.