New Life Games Tech Forums

I have a 1986 IGT Keno 25 Cent Floor Model that will not accept coins.  I replaced the 3.6 volt battery on the board, and the monitor is good and show the last game, 1 closure, 4 coins in and 1 paid out.  Top of screen says Mark numbers.  I put a coin in and it just drops out in the coin tray.  I went to the test screen and was checking the inputs on the coin optics and it shows A, B, C.  All show 0.  I tried a popsicle stick in and got the C optics to change to 1 when I did this, so I am assuming that this optic is in working order.  The coin comparitor is a 25 cent CC-16D, and I am not sure if this is working or not.  I was wondering if there is a way to bypass the coin comparitor to see if it is bad?  Originally the screen showed a coin timed out, I checked the hopper, and found a jammed coin which I removed, I reset the jackpot from the test screen and no more coin timed out.  When I test the hopper reset it is working and kicking out the coins.  Could the coin comparitor be bad, or is it something in the board that is not sending a signal?  Any help with test suggestions would be appreciated.

Check the screen (with the door closed). Does it say door open ?
Try changing the sample coin in your comparitor.
Make sure the wires are plugged into the comparitor - reseat them just for fun.

On most slot machines the coin comparitor is not energized until the machine is ready for play. This includes closing and locking the door. Not sure what your machine has, switches or optics, or maybe both that determine the door is closed and locked. If you can fake out the machine to think the door is closed/locked, then you could see if the CC-16 is powered up.
If it does power up it should take coins that match the sample coin.
If it does not power up than the machine is not ready to receive coins, need to figure it out.

OR, it could already have the maximum coins inserted and is waiting for you to mark the numbers and play.

I was thinking that, since jcnp2021 said that it says "mark numbers" at the top of the screen.  I don't think it will let you mark numbers with no coins inserted.  With the door(s) completely closed, can you mark a few numbers and attempt to start the game?

Also, with your popsicle stick test, you should be able to change the state of all three of your coin-in optics (A, B, and C) -- if only one of them is changing, you may have a problem with your coin-in optics.

Okay thank for all the great suggestions.  When I went to the test screen I tested the optics A,B & C as suggested with a popsicle stick, and yes all optics are recoginzed, that is changing on the screen from 1 to 0.  So optics are working.  I did note that the door open test was flickering from 1 to 0.  I attempted to clean the two glass eyes for the door and ended up breaking the wires on one of them, and these wires are so small no way to reattach them, so I eliminated them and just joined the wires from each eye connection and number on screen switched over to 0 showing closed door, not sure if this is faking the door closed, but as far as it showing on the screen it shows closed.  I took a piece of cardboard and inserted it behind the rake on the compaitor and dropped a coin in, it went directly to the coin hopper, but again not crediting for a game.  Again screen shows last game, and top says Mark numbers, and I did try to mark numbers but nothing.  I also tested the light pen in the test screen and pen is working.  Any other suggestions? 

Shorting the wires are not going to cut it.
Any of the vendors on our home page can get you new optics.

Plus,
If you've joined the optic wires backwards at any point - you've killed your MPU board.
Even brand new optics will not work anymore...
You might as well buy an MPU board as well.
If you keep shorting out wires - you will end up buying even more stuff.

Well, for sure you're going to need a new set of door optics.  As Jay and Mark said, you can't just short the wires together.  The reason why you were getting a flickering 1/0/1/0/1/0 was that the optics send a pulsed signal to prevent them from being cheated by shorting the wires togehter.  In other words, that was normal to see if the door was closed in the self test.

Food for thought:

- You should have only gotten the flickering 1/0 for the door test when the door was CLOSED.  It should not have been flickering when the door was open.

- It really sounds like to me that the machine is waiting for you to mark numbers and complete the game that has been paid for, which leads to...


- Are you *sure* that your pen is working?  I've never actually worked on a machine with a pen, but I'm pretty sure that the self test input screen only tests if the microswitch in the tip of the pen is working.  That is, you could aim the pen away from the screen and click the tip of it with your finger and it will still register on the self test input screen, but obviously would not be able to mark a spot during gameplay.  Check for any obstructions in the tip of the pen (that would prevent it from seeing the scan line in the monitor).  For kicks, if your machine is seeing the door as closed with your wiring (it may work, but you really need to get a new set of optics), try clicking everywhere on the screen to see if you can get a spot to mark.  If not, you may need a new light pen and/or a new pen controller board.

How is the image on your screen?  Does it look like it normally has, or is it darker than normal and/or stretched or rolling over on the top?  A few pictures of your machine and the screen would be helpful at this point.