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Greetings.  I just sold a S+ machine to someone and while it was working well when I had it and for the first day or so at his place, he's now reporting that the jackpot reset key and the self test button aren't working (no reaction from the machine when they're used).  From walking through some stuff on the phone, it sounds like the machine is otherwise working normally.

I looked on my machine and saw that the wiring for those runs to the same bunch of wires, but I can't determine where they go (either into the CPU harnesses or into the mother board, and exactly where).  It seems to me like there's a loose/bad connection somewhere.  Does anyone know where those wires go to so I can check for a bad connection?   :99-

Thanks.

hope this helps, there are a few plugs that you will need to check that are common to both functions on the machine


cheers


O Z Z Y

Is it possible that this is affected by a bad ( not blown )  fuse or corrosion on the fuse holder ? If a fuse doesn't blow all the way on one of my pin games, it has an affect on the game play. When I change to a new fuse the situation sometimes corrects itself. It almost seems that the fuse only allows partial current thru ? It doesn't seem possible, but that has happened several times on my Gottlieb ga :103-mes.

Our S+'s should only be using QUICK BLOW fuses. They should not be using slowblow auto fuses.
I'm leaning towards the idea that they still have credits on the machine, perhaps?
It has a great impact on the "test" switch options.
If there's credits on the machine, you cannot enable any options.

However, having said this, that wouldnt normally affect the reset key.
Maybe he turned the reset key too hard , rotated it and broke the inside mechanisms that actually contacts and closes the reset key circuit?
The reset key insides can break really easily if you force the key too much clockwise.
 
Can he remove the reset key nut, remove the key tumbler, extend the wires thru the hole, close the door, and touch the two wires together.... to see if he can get into accounting mode?

Finally, if none of this works, I'll bet money that he somehow was curious about the PCB board, maybe removing it from the motherboard while the power was still on...or worse yet, sticking it back in and bending the motherboard pins and shorting out stuff....that would just about destroy that little 8-pin chip on the motherboard.
I'm suspecting that he/she is not telling you everything....especially if they are first time machine owners.
You need a lot more details in order to help them better.
It's very rare that both these switches stop working for apparently no reason at all.
I remember a topic not too long ago where a son was digging around up behind the slot handle and accidently made one of the connectors come off somehow.....they had put up a post about the handle only working intermittently...lol...everytime they pulled the handle and shook the machine, the connector would sometimes touch and spin the reels...other times it wouldnt.

After tracing wires and taking coins out of the power supply and who knows what else, I still had no love.  As a last gasp before coming back to here, I tried swapping out the CPU board with a known good one.  Lo and behold, it worked.   :25-  I should have tried that before I traced wires for an hour!

Anyway, I'll take a closer look at the old CPU board to see if I can see anything.  Thanks to everyone for your helpful suggestions (and to Ozzy for taking the time to make that pdf).

-Kevin

I wish I knew how to test those "U" components on PCB boards that Ozzy pointed out...
Those IGT repair and trouble shooting manuals are awesome!
I need to take a crash electronics class :96-
Glad you got it up and running again! 

I'm with you -- I'm no electrical engineer or slot tech -- just a guy who knows more about these than the average Joe.


As far as the game in question, there may be more to the story.  The handle was broken -- I found part of the guts of the handle sheared off inside the rachet mechanism, and it no longer works (the part that came off was the part that would reach down and touch the microswitch when the handle was pulled down).  The handle did work when it left my house, so they must have broken it in transit -- I don't know if they dropped the machine, or tried to lift it by the handle, or what.

Regardless, I have a few spare working CPU boards, so it wasn't a big deal to do a housecall and replace it for free.  If he calls me in six months, I'm charging him for it, but in this case where it went bad one day after I sold it, I'm willing to take the hit.

Just for the heck of it, did you try his old board in one of your good test machines?
To see if YOUR machine has the same problem his had?

I haven't gotten that far yet.  ...and with a bunch of spare boards available, I'm not in a rush to try it.  :)

$5 says they used it as a handle to lift it...  :5- :5-

I've seen this happen if an old IGT S processor module is put into a S+ machine. The machine plays normal however some of the swithches won't work. Just a thought.

The machine was working fine when it left my house, and even worked for the first day at his house.  Hopefully it was just a fluke and that something on the CPU board picked that day to fry.

Now would be a good time to tell the purchaser to invest in a good surge protector. Most noobs don't think of that because they don't think of their new slot as a computer.

Indeed.  I told him that as he was taking the machine away, and told him that after I replaced the board.  Hopefully he'll listen!   :5-