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My Bally Lost World started locking up in the middle of a game and I thought I would pull the MPU board chips to reseat and see if anything changed.  The chip in in U11 had a broken pin at one time that some one solder together, it broke when I pulled it so I ordered a complete new set since I will probably keep this game forever.  I change the chip base and installed a new chip only to now have 4 LED flashes on start up ( flicked on turn on then one solid flash with a pause and 3 more solid flashes).  I check the 40 pin socket I replaced and do not have any open pins.  There are several jumped wires on the back of the board, the last owner had someone work on it in the past.  Now the questions start, are the jumpers used to fix breaks in the foil on the board or to make chips other than original ones work?  I bought original chips for the game and wonder if I created a problem with the chips I installed, the chips are a different brand and I cannot cross reference. The battery box was eliminated and I believe you only lose memory without the battery, is this correct?  Is a light LED flicker followed by one solid flash, pause then 3 solid flashes considered 3 or 4 flashes?  I have been using a Bally component manual and am as far as I can go without some guidance, any ideas are appreciated.  Jim

Some jumpers could be used to repair bad traces. Others were added as mods to improve reliability.

Here is a good site to use to troubleshoot. About half way down, it tells you what each flash is for and what to look for if it fails after a certain flash. The first flicker is considered a flash. It means the CPU has booted and found the code in the ROM. No 5th flash is pointing to U11 that you worked on.

IMO, (having gone through Bally boards with intermitant lockups), is to just buy a new one.

And yes, the battery only keeps the high score and other settings. Best to have one though.

http://www.pinrepair.com/bally/index2.htm#flash (http://www.pinrepair.com/bally/index2.htm#flash)

BTW, U10 and U11 are identical PIAs. You can try swapping them and see if the number of flashes changes as first U10 is checked first and then U11. Since U11 is what you messed with (and the socket), I would suspect a bad solder joint or a solder bridge shorting two pins. Check everything with a magnifying glass.

Hello
A new MPU will solve all of your problems. If your going to keep the machine, I relpaced all of my #44 lamps with color LEDs. It gives an old machine a whole new look.
Check out these links for the stuff.

http://www.allteksystems.com/ (http://www.allteksystems.com/)

http://cointaker.com/main.sc;jsessionid=4240C0B0BFB4698F883E45B3CC2BDA5D.qscstrfrnt04 (http://cointaker.com/main.sc;jsessionid=4240C0B0BFB4698F883E45B3CC2BDA5D.qscstrfrnt04)

This stuff worked well for me.

2Moons

Thanks for the input, I enjoy fixing pinball and slot machines probably more than playing them, most of them have been repairable with a few parts and time spent.   This one has been a losing battle and I followed the advise and ordered a new MPU from ALLTEK.  Thanks again Jim