New Life Games Tech Forums

I am new to this site and could not find anything on this topic....

I bought an IGT S2000 slot machine several months ago. There is a constant hum through the speakers. When you spin the machine, the sound is very annoying. You hear loud popping sounds through the speakers. The only way to get rid of it is to disable the Reel Spin Sounds. I was told this popping sound is normal with the S2000??? Am I being told the truth? If not, what can cause this popping sound only with the reel spin sounds enabled?
I also sometimes hear a hissing sound, as if there is a short somewhere.

Thanks for your time

You missed this whole topic?

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=145.msg588#msg588 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=145.msg588#msg588)

Seems to me that's not the only thread he missed, we've probably had 10 so far.  :96-

Slotsx2,  :238-

We have a search button right under your name and avatar at the top of every page, it's very useful and will help you quickly find the solution to all of your problems and World Peace (or World Domination, if you're so inclined!).  :200- :208- :208-

Fixed problem on mine by putting 504 B board in.
http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1251

I didn't miss all the posts on this topic. The main ones deal with adding resistors or pots, both of which I have tried before with no success.

My slot machine works and sounds GREAT with the reel sounds disabled, which could indicate a sound card problem, reel problems or any numerous other things. I can build a computer with my eyes closed, however, I have had slot machines for one month or so. I am not in a hurry to screw them up by changing boards I'm not in ANY WAY familiar with..... I just thought someone might know a quick fix I didn't yet try that would work without me needing to rebuild my slot machine....

It's a grounding problem that carries through the multimedia board. Even IGT couldn't fix it satifactorily without redesigning the board. Thus the 504B came to life. The only other fixes are the ones listed in previous posts or removing the multimedia board and using stock sounds

How hard is it to replace the board? Any special tools needed, and or any programming of the other board requiring specialized tools of any kind?

Thank You

Boards are simple to replace. You might need a KEY chip to adjust some programming after the board swap is all. There'll be a couple things the guys on here can walk you through as far as error codes your machine will have till it recognizes the new board, but that's it. If you're gonna own S2000 machines having a KEY chip is a very good idea anyway. Ask for one from whoever you get the new board from. Simply place an ad in the classified section here on the forum

More than likely with the new board you'll have to clear a couple of tilts with the jackpot reset key, and that's it.  To change boards, power off the machine, slide out the old board, remove the chips from the old board and install them on the new one (note the "notch" in the top of the EPROM and keep it in the same direction for the new board), put the new board into the old metal tray, slide it back in.

Welcome to the site.  There is an S2000 section for S2000-specific discussion, rather than this general "reel slots" category.  I suspect a moderator will move this thread there soon.

I ordered the board, a key chip and a clear chip. Hope I can get this sound problem sorted out. As I said, the sound is perfect with the reel spin sounds disabled....
Thanks

Now you know where the problem is.... :79-

The key chip will come in handy. The clear chip is nice, but like bunker has said and most of the retailers will agree, unless you're changing the accounting denomination, there is almost, virtually, with very few precedants, ANY reason to use a clear chip. Once you get the new board, come see us here and we can walk you through the change.

Well, I was told by this thread I needed the key chip. The person I ordered from said I needed the clear chip..... Win one, lose seven I guess?
 :279-

Thanks everyone, your help is MUCH appreciated!

I'm suppose to get the new board thursday ut I have some concerns. I found ANOTHER board on the same site.
The board I ordered is

Model 1952-2
$45.00
IGT S2000 Super Stepper Controller Board W/Tray
PN 75510501 REV B

The other board I found is

Model 1035
$64.00
IGT S2000 Super Stepper Controller Board W/Tray
PN 7551050

I tried to call and sent an e-mail to no avail..... 
http://www.rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1251 (http://www.rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1251)

One last quick question if I may,
What do I need to change payout percentage on an IGT S+ 3 coin Double Spin Double Diamond?

Thanks

Model 1952-2
$45.00
IGT S2000 Super Stepper Controller Board W/Tray
PN 75510501 REV B

IT SHOULD END IN 504B, NOT 501B

Try sending the owner of RudysDeals.com an e-mail directly with your questions.  john --at-- rudysdeals.com

You really want to get the one you linked to -- the one where the part number ends in 504 rev. B.  The 504 B boards have the least amount of static and unwanted noise.  If I read your message right, you ordered a 501 B board, which I'm not sure even exists (I'm familiar with 502 and 504 boards, not 501).  (If such a beast exists, it would still have the unwanted noise that didn't get fixed until 504 B.)

As far as your S+ question, please consider starting a new thread in the S+ section (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=60.0) for this different issue, but the short answer is that you'll need to buy a different SS chip.  You can see a list of the available chips for your game by visiting the IGT Game Bible (http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/) -- click on "3CM" at the top for "3 Coin Multiplier" games.  Find Double Spin Double Diamond, and it will list all of the available SS chips and their associated percentages.  Consider posting a WTB ("Want to Buy") ad in the Classifieds section (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=5.0) to find a vendor who can supply you with that chip.

I apologize, that was a typo on my part. I DID order the one I linked to, so I'm good to go as far as I can see by the 2 responses.
Thank you for the e-mail suggestion. If I had gotten a reply using the web site e-mail link this post would not have had to be here.

Thanks again,
I am impressed by the many knowledgeable people on this board!

Got the new board today. Doesn't say revision B on it, but am hoping its right?
I assume I am suppose to replace all chips missing on new board with chips from my board?
Do I replace game chip with Key chip?

It should say something on the board as to what revision it is.  Is there not an assembly number on it?

Yes, replace the missing chips with the chips from your old board.  Note the direction of the EPROM chips (they have notches on one end which match the notch in the socket) and make sure to install them in the same direction.  Triple check that all of the legs of the chips are inserted into the sockets (and not next to the sockets, or folded under the chip).

Don't worry about using your keychip -- you likely won't need it.  When you turn on the machine you'll likely get a loud alarm.  Use the jackpot reset keyswitch on the side of the machine to stop the alarm, and follow the directions on the dispay on the reel glass.

The assembly # is the same as the one on my board.

All i'm getting is a blinking red light just above the little white button. Turning the reset key does nothing.

There are two long sockets that look almost like simm sockets running on either side of eprom locations U44 and U17. What clor are they?

WHITE

Sorry, black

That post I found that said the speaker popping was caused by a short thru the board was BS. I have the SAME  board in my machine as the one I just bought , but I still have the popping, humming sound. I tried the resistors and the pots theory, no help...... NOW my machine is dead, LOL
Can anyone help me get it back up and running with  the popping and VERY annoying reel sounds.......
I have a red flashing button just above the white button....

Black makes it a 504b board. If you're getting a flashing red light, double check all your chips are seated properly. You might replace the ram chips that were on your old board with the ones that were on the new board also. Last but not least, check the battery to make sure it isn't dead, coin and the green one.

And they're right. Noise isn't caused by a short through the board. It's caused by a grounding problem between the mpu and multimedia boards. That's why it disappears when you unplug the multimedia board

Well,
I have 5 yellow lights, one green light and when I push the white self test button I get nothing on  the door screen. WHA HAPPENED?
Is my machine fried?

At this point slotx2,
You really need to shut down the machine.  :81- :81- :81-
Pull out the board and take a good clear high resolution photograph
of the board and all the chips you have in it. :209-
I'm almost 1,000% certain you have a folded-under eprom leg... :89-  :79-

Don't worry - I've done it too... :25-

If you don't have a camera...go buy one!  :14-

I agree with Bunker.  Either an eprom is not seated correctly, an eprom leg/'s are outside of the socket, or a leg is folded up under the eprom.  Hopefully none of them were installed backwards as this can toast chips.

I have done it all...been there done that.  This crew will get it going...no worries!

Jason

I didnt even change the chips since the new board is the same as the one I have.
http://www.dadsfred.net/redwhiteblue.jpg (http://www.dadsfred.net/redwhiteblue.jpg)

So, if your replacement board came with chips, and they were not swapped out with the chips on your old board, perhaps there is a problem with a chip or chips on the new board. 

The risk is that if you swap chips and that replacement board causes problems with your known good working chips...that will make matters worse.  Is it possible to set up an exchange with the vendor for the new board that you bought?

Jason

Check the pins on the bottom of the new board.
One or Two things could of happened?

You either removed or slid in the board with the power switch "On"

or

A pin somehow got folded over when you slid in and
push-seated the MPU back into it tray holder sockets.

Look at all those pins very, very carefully.
One of them might be bent over and folded.
It usually happens to the right-most pins because when you push in the MPU,
it could be slightly raised and incorrectly angled - if your holding the tray "up".
The MPU tray must be flat down on the base metal of the tray holder slot and
then you just use a little forward push to seat the MPU pins into the backplane.

NEVER hold the MPU tray up by the handle when you do the final push.
That's when pins get bent.

No,
I have my original board in with all the original chips in it and none are bent.
4 yellow lights 1 green and NOTHING on door display.

Yes,
But have you looked at the pins on the bottom of the MPU board?
Not the ones under the chips.

4 Amber LEDs lit...one green one lit

Hmm... :103- 

gimme a minute

4 amber lit, green lit and red one flashes once every 30 seconds or so

You have major problems dude.  :186-
I don't think the LED indicators are all supposed to be "on" like that I'm afraid... :8-
The Red one is never good... :60-

Did you check the pins under the MPU yet?  :103-
The two long long pin sockets on the bottom of the MPU board with 67 million pins????
Also, you haven't yet told us if you've removed/installed the MPU while the power switch was on...?

Below is the sheet from the manual for the 2 Amber LEDs.
I have no idea why you have 4 "yellow lights" as you've stated in Reply#35 & Reply#37???
Do you have an I-Game board or something? >>>

none of the pins  on the mpu board are bent and I never removed the board with power on. I build computers, so I know better than to remove anything with the power on. ever since ive had this slot, every once in a while i could hear a slight sizzle sound............... maybe it finally sizzled out?

its an igt board and i have no clue why i have a total of 6 lights. 4 amber, the green one below the 4 ambers and the red one below the green one

"Sizzling sounds" and Red LED indicator lights are never good...believe me! lol

If you had a programmer/reader -
you could check the CRC of the chips to see if they match known eprom CRC's.
But assuming you don't have one...
I'd ask the vendor if he could send you a replacement MPU,
maybe check the chips and MPU for proper operation after you've
shown him all these posts and told him what problems you've been having
with the MPU ever since you've received it.

Most vendors though...will not take back electronics.
Where did the "sizzling sounds" emanate from?
Are the capacitors okay?
Maybe they blew up?

do you know any place to purchase a new game package for an S2000? its a round top, so its harder to find the glass.
I dont know where the sizzle sound came from, just heard it once in a while......

Place an ad in the "Classifieds" section of NLG for all of your wants...
vendors lurk around in there hoping to sell ya something! lol

The "sizzling sounds" could be a number of different IC components
deciding to just give up and die... :47- :50-
They've had enough of this thing called electricity....

Wait, let's rewind and go back to square one.  So if you put your old board, with it's chips back in your machine, the way that it was, will it come back to life?  (with the buzzing in the speakers I know.)

Thanks,
Jason

All these posts have been with the original board in.

You haven't tried the new board yet?   :103-

I'm a bit cornfused I guess. 

Your not the only one Jason

That makes 3 of us, or is it 4 now? I lost track :103-

It started with speaker noise & going to a 504B board

I still feel like we can get this one fixed, but right now it feels like this scene:

 :208-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4prqDn7QS8I (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4prqDn7QS8I)

HUH??? :wtf1-

I believe he did try the new board and the results weren't good. 

Any checks on a shorted wire or PS?

For reference, there is usually a small white sticker(label) with the part number of the board that resides under the multimedia lite II board near the front of the board.  The small digits end with example 504 REVB.

Thanks,
Wayne

here's sticker
click to enlarge

When I get more time, I may post the procedure to update a board to the next revision, so that those who like to tinker can update their earlier boards to 504-B and not have to use the resistor trick.

Thansk,
Wayne

It is easy.
I'm not the best @ giving instructions so I'll let it up to you Wayne.
Ford
PS  I don't think he got a 504b when he got another board.

Thanks, Wayne. I for one would really appreciate that...  :89- :3- :3-

Yes, I'm back....
My S2000 Double Red, White & Blue is working GREAT! But, the thumping reel sounds still SUCK! I am finally convinced this is typical of the S2000, but I will not be denied!

I puchased a multimedia lite sound card, part# 76924401 REV A with a DSV00042 16MG card plugged into the slot on the card. It looks like a computer ram stick to me???
Anyway, I installed it into my S2000 and I get error [ SOUND SIMM MEMORY CRC ERROR 0XF020 ] I have no clue what this card came out of.

Wrong ram card {the 16MG card} installed???

Any help or suggestions is appreciated!