New Life Games Tech Forums

If someone could help me, I have to go look at a
IGT 9640050R  Double Diamond, later this week.

I'm only familiar with Bally EM's & E2000.

If someone could tell me what series this is, I'd
like to download service info / manual.

Customer/Friend states slot is flaky and receives
an error 12 (low voltage)  I'll assume this is the
on-board battery ?

He also said his brother was tired of it being loud, so
he cut the speaker wire(s) instead of looking for a
volume pot :o)

Anyways... it would be nice to get my hands on the
inside of this machine, but first, I want to know what
boards are what.

Todd

Error code 12 is either an S Slot or S+battery error. Re-connect the speaker and if there is a wheel on the MPU that controls the volume, turn it If there is no wheel it is the 16Mhz version and the volume is controlled in the menus. I believe once you post some pics of it, we could size it up pretty quick and steer you in the right direction. Welcome to NLG!

I got a chance to look at this slot machine.
It boots up with an error 12.

Here's a few pics;

http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/temp/slotf.jpg (http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/temp/slotf.jpg)
http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/temp/slot1.jpg (http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/temp/slot1.jpg)
http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/temp/slotr.jpg (http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/temp/slotr.jpg)

Could someone tell what series this is so I may look
for some manuals & schematics.


Also, how do you remove the main logic board behind
the hopper,  looks like it lifts up, but I didn't try too hard.
I figure if there's a battery, it must be in the metal 'box'

S+ and yes the error 12 is low battery. You lift the tray up and out and the battery is soldered on the board (I hope you know how to solder).

And if you can solder, solder the speaker wire back together and adjust the volume level with the blue variable resistor on the board.  If it doesn't have one it's a 16Hmz board and you set it in the software menus.

Yeah, I can solder ;-)

I had a whole 5 mins to look at this
machine. so I didn't bother with the
speaker... I just want to remove the
logic board and pop in a battery.

Thanks for the ID, I'll study up on
the IGT S+ series.

I just did some checking, looks like replacing the
battery may cause loss of settings and require
a clear chip procedure and reprogramming.

The slot is not in the best location, so I'd like
to try to replace the battery w/o loss of data.

I've done it before on other boards, just provide
3.6v to the 'keep alive' while you swap in a new
& charged replacement, then remove life support.

Should work, right...... :103-

If the battery is already dead, then you have lost the some settings anyway. The error 12 will come up when the battery reaches a certain level but my still be keeping the memory. However, I don't know if when the 12 comes up if it automatically resets everything anyway.

But yes, generally speaking, keeping voltage on a static ram while swapping batteries will keep the memory intact IF the battery was not below about 2v which is generally the lowest voltage that will retain memory.

I've replaced a few batteries and never needed to use a clear chip. You should just get a few CMOS errors that can be cleared with the self test and reset key. I didn't even need to use a set chip to turn the BV back on.

litterbox99,
Welcome to NLG...
Since you're pretty new at S+'s..
please to go "Rick's FAQ's on the top right of the of this page.
Lotta stuff in there that will help you out.

The CMOS RAM data is copied to a Serial EEPROM 24C04 chip that is on the mother or back plane board.
I do not know how much is copied, etc but I have changed boards and do not loose any settings except those unique to that SP and SS chip

Most of the time after a battery change you don't need a clear chip.  I really wouldn't mess around with trying to apply voltage to the board when you change the battery -- just go ahead and change it.  Worst case you'll need to clear, but I'd put the odds of that happening at less than 5%.  If you need a clear chip (and a SET chip to enable the bill validator), you should be able to get a set of them for under $25 from one of our vendors or members (first choice), or from eBay.  They're not a bad idea for your customer/friend to have around, anyway, if he's going to own a S+ machine.

I have never tried this. But once you get a error 12, I wonder if it is written to the EEPROM or CMOS and it would not clear even if you did manage to save the CMOS contets durring a battery swap. In other words, it may not matter once you get the 12.

I had a old S+ (1989) and did the battery change and did not need the SET 015 chip. I did ram clear it to get the millions of plays off the log. I know that there are persons here that think that ram clearing excessively is bad but if the game is an older game, it may not be a bad idea. Of course, if you don't feel comfortable doing it, don't.

I don't think it's bad, just generally unnecessary.  More often than not people reach for the clear chip to try and fix something that isn't even related, and in turn clear all the settings from their machine (which take time to get back to where they were), and still have the problem they started with.  As such, I'm a big supporter of telling people to only clear their machines as a last resort, and only after they've been advised by a knowledgeable member here.

If someone who knows what they're doing wants to RAM clear and set everything back up, more power to them.  :89-

Thanks for all the input guys !

I think I'll try swapping out the battery first and go from there.

I'm not uncomfortable doing the clear & set, I burn and swap
Eproms all the time working on my Imsai 8080, it's the lack of
not having a service manual so I can restore the settings.

Could someone point me to a PDF that would explain the
self test(s) & set up variables in case I need them.

What a RAM clear chip does is set the machine back to it's original factory settings
and zero's out the accounting meters. (the hard mechanical meters remain as is...)
I doubt that there are any settings you'd need to do?

You'd need a SET chip to re-enable the bill acceptor and perhaps
set the machine to a quarter machine?
But that's only needed IF you have a bill acceptor.

Other than that, you probably don't have to change a thing! 
The machine WILL work! 

That's why a Clear chip isn't really needed much...mine collects dust!   :72-

http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=74&product_id=385 (http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=74&product_id=385)

Imsai 8080?  Holy flashback!  Makes me want to dig the Commodore PET out of the attic! It had 4k of memory, an no that's not a typo..4k  :97- 

Tilt:

The pet was cool, I had the opportunity to use one
in grade school !  I hated the small keyboard  :25-
Besides I had a TRS-80 @ home to toy with...

Here's the Imsai;

http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/temp/ims2.jpg (http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/temp/ims2.jpg)


Back on topic, I just ordered a 3.6 v batt w/long leads from
Jameco.

The slot has a quarter comparator and a DBA.   We will see
what happens....

lol  I still have my 8-tracks too!

I do love the 8-tracks, my player is even a quad.

To kill some time, here's a look into my game room.

http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/pikx.html (http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/pikx.html)

Yeah, they had the little chiclet size keys.   Your 8080 still looks brand new.  I never saw one except for in the old Byte magazines.  The good old days!

The setup stuff is dependent on the SP chip that is installed in the machine.  We'll need to know that information (either from a label on the EPROM, or by following these steps (http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/SPSS.htm) (although I'm not sure if you can do that with a low battery?  :103- )) in order to get you the right PSR (Program Summary Report) that has the setup variables for that chipset.

Awesome link !

Thanks !

I'm going over on fri to remove the board, I have a battery to install.
I'll note the info on the Eproms and report back.

I wish I had this in my basement, that way I could play with
it for a week or so...

Wow! Does that bring back memories! We used an IMSAI 8080 in my high school computer club. It looks like you're missing the left-most blue toggle switch.
I don't remember having that small display you've got sitting on top of the acrylic. Was that an extra option? :103-

I had to go to S#^t S#@ck to use the TRS -- we didn't own one. They came out with the Level I in my first year or two of high school and they were already on the TRaSh 80 level III by the time I was a senior. I remember using the TRS80 level I with 4k of ram that would save one's BASIC programs on a cassette recorder connected with audio cables. I would trot on down to the store with my cassette so I could reload programs I had written and save anything new that I did.  I also remember when they came out with the big 16kb memory expansion board. It was in a silver case that could be placed under the monitor.

The small display is actually a System Monitor Board, it displays the address & data in hex.
It also has various LED's to indicate activity on the buss, as well as giving you the ability
to step through a program or set break points.  Here's a better pic.

http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/temp/ssmb1.jpg (http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/temp/ssmb1.jpg)
http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/temp/ssmb2.jpg (http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/temp/ssmb2.jpg)
http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/temp/ssmb3.jpg (http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/temp/ssmb3.jpg)
http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/temp/ssmb4.jpg (http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/temp/ssmb4.jpg)
http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/temp/ssmb5.jpg (http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/temp/ssmb5.jpg)

To stay on topic ;-)  I removed the CPU card out of the slot,
very simple to do, I'll replace the battery on Sunday.  Here's
a pic of the Rom's, I guess this is what you guys need to let
me know how to reprogram if needed.


http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/temp/rom.jpg (http://home.mchsi.com/~litterbox99/temp/rom.jpg)


Thanks

Todd

Hi Todd. You don't have to worry about your eproms, they'll hold their info. It's the system settings/info
in cmos that it is possible to lose but it is VERY UNLIKELY.

It so happens I just had to do a battery change myself yesterday. After installng the new battery, putting
board etc., back in...yadda, yadda...I got error code 61 after power on which is typical to a game change.
For code 61, press and hold little white button by power switch for 3 seconds till you get coin in sound and
61 - 1  code on display. Close door and turn jackpot reset key once and wait for machine to cycle. After
machine cycles, you are now back in business.

If Bill Vallidator lights up then you have saved settings, if not, you can report your findings here. Obviously
you'd want to test game play a few times too e.g. Coin Play &  Bills.

tjkeller  :186-
 :nlg- Docs

I finally got a chance to get over and drop the board in.
The slot booted right up (I had to use the jackpot key
for error 61 1 ) Slot played fine !  I didn't check the DBA
because he said it never worked, so I didn't mess with it.

Thanks guys for the help ! Plus it was fun to work on a
newer machine.

Todd

Todd-

Thanks for the follow-up, and congrats on getting the machine back up and running.  More than likely the bill validator just needs to be enabled, so if you are ever over there again, here are instructions on how to do it (http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/dbv.htm).