New Life Games Tech Forums

Last night when I turned on this is how it acted. Turned reset & opened & closed door about 6 times then all
was OK the rest of night.
Tonight same thing. In video you can see how it acted.
Any suggestions what I should look for.
Thanks for any advice, Ford
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcMSZQ6ymyY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcMSZQ6ymyY)

Things to try:
Remove and re-install the MPU firmly
Remove and re-install the Power Supply.
Try a different Power supply (I do not think it is your problem) but just in case
Try a different MPU if have one
Definitely remove and inspect the motherboard. I had a similar problem with my s2000 (mostly a vision ready at that time) motherboard had damaged traces to and from the 3 netplex ports.
My machine would have the player buttons lamps on like it was ready to play. I would hit the max bet, credits click off, lamps out, then machine would do nothing more until I turned it off and back on.

I'm not an S2000 expert, but I'd guess that the power supply is flaking out with some of the voltage it should be providing.  Do you have another supply from a known good machine you could try swapping in to see if that eliminates the issue?

I have others to swap out parts. The weird thing is after I reset about 6 times it work good. Last night
after I reset it it worked all night. Tonight after several resets it's been working perfect.
Thanks for advice

If it was the Power Supply the machine would reboot every time it lost power
it does look he is loosing the 13V (because of the what goes off) but if that was the case the MPU would restart.
It takes a minute or more for most S2000 to boot up
About minute if no Sound SIMM and a couple minutes or so with a sound SIMM, and maybe a bit longer for S2000 reel touch or vision computers in the top box.

Everything boots up. When I hit button to play that is when it goes weird.
What should the voltage be on battery. It shows 2.7
I thought if voltage was to low it might pickup after it's on for short time. Maybe that's what's happening.
I turned it off again to see what happens when I start up again. It's hard to find if it's working.

Is the machine perfectly level and is the door fully latched down
might sound funny but I have seen it before.

Tim

All that seems OK.

I doubt the  CMOS battery is causing the problem (might replace to prevent other issues)
What MPU is the game using?
If it a 50x board, did you remove the rechargeable battery?
If it a 1270 (enhanced) MPU I heard do not remove it.
IF you did remove it, did you jumper the 2 solder points where positive terminal was soldered.

Sorry to hijack the thread for a moment, but is that something you're supposed to do if/when you remove the green battery?

It's a 502A board. Battery was taken out last summer & worked ok for 8 mo.
Did not know that you should jump pos posts.

I did about 10 & never jumped any.

I removed one on a 502A board I kept getting reel tilts for no reason, I took a good look and used a meter to verify they were not connected with the battery off the board.
I took a wire and re connected the 2 solder points, reel tilts went away.

Note 502A has had the audio fix applied by me (per IGT bulletin) that could be why it needed them connected.

All I know is that when the battery is in place those 2 solder points are connected by the positive terminal.
 
When I removed the batteries for another member I soldered a short piece wire in place of the positive terminal to prevent any issues.

Now a 504B or unmodified 502A may not need the jumper
I just tested the 502A, when I took a meter to the 2 points without the wire, the meter read infinite resistance.

Should I remove the battery from my 504B board (leave the jumper off for some tests) or pop in the 502A with the jumper removed for tests.

 

Thanks all for advice. I've been turning on & off & it works OK.
I'll see what happens tomorrow when I start it up. If it acts up then I can do some swapping.
Thanks again for help. :244-

The testing is done.

I tried the 502A without the jumper it worked just fine.

Now I know one thing that 502A will be only used if my 504B dies
IT sounds fugly with the MMLB installed. 504B sounds better.

It does not hurt anything to have the jumper and it being there may prevent any strange issues.

Now to enable key menu and fix settings that swapping mpu's out set to defaults. UGH!

I think the machine is shot . So before you scrap it out ( SEND ME YOUR REEL STRIPS )   :200- :200-

If at somepoint I decide to get ride of it to put another game in I'll post it on here.
Ford

Ford I got the impression you think the machine will charge the small battery. I may be incorrect but I don't think it does.

  What  is  our  world  coming  to !       Minds  which  can  develop  weapons  ought  to  be  developing   items  to  improve  our  world !


Yep. I thought it would put some juice into battery. (I guess I'm wrong again)
You mean that little battery goes for years without get ANY juice back in.

The only time that battery is in use is when the power is off.
It only powers the 2 CMOS RAM chips
They are between the game chips and version chip, SS chip socket.

That is why I donate to this site. I always learn something new.

Now if you could only get someone on your side, you could really get learned up. :26- :26- :26- :214- :214-

Ford, I think your problem is that your button lens caps need to either be changed out, or it may even be related to the jackpot award sticker being too old.  Switching these out should take care of the problem.  HAHAHA!

Ok, all joking aside, gut feel is what the other guys have been saying...MPU or PS seem like the likely culprits.  You're lucky to have extra parts to swap around.  

Jason

UPDATE
Last night I turned it on. Same thing. I did not reset. About 5 min it started & worked OK.
I put in another MPU board. (didn't have a  504 so put in 502)
Came in tonight  - turned it on - It started right up.
Thanks guys. Hope it works tomorrow.
Ford :wa