New Life Games Tech Forums

I am thinking about picking up this machine, please let me know your opinion about this slot and what model is it. Thx

It's a Bally 6000 r/t. I have one. It's a good game. If price is right get it.
Ford

Bally S6000 Pro Slot and yes it is a fun game, a few of us in here have them. Don't pay more than 400 if you can

Thanks for your inputs, would this slot have the same mpu board as my 6000 pro slot blazing 7's

Yes it would.
Ford

I have 2 of these available, black cabinet, flat tops.  $175 each, un-shopped parts complete or $350 shopped clean and working with 1 year warranty.

THERE YOU GO. That's a good deal. On Sat. I got 3 machines from Jim for my birthday. If you look @ post
on 99 bottles 0of beer that will give you an idea what it's like .
Ford

b5srt, I get them un-shopped. It makes it interesting & you learn a lot about your machine. If you run
into a problem there is always someone on NLG that will be happy to help you out.
The first thing I do is get them running then I clean them up.
Ford

That is a great deal but I am up in Canada, what exactly does"un-shopped" & "shopped mean

un-shopped is the way it comes off casino floor.
shopped is cleaned up & all you have to do is plug it in.
Ford

Please let me expand on that definition of "shopped" versus "un-shopped" a little bit.

"shopped" = Machine is cleaned inside and out.  But most importantly all components are tested working.  When you receive the machine you plug it in and


"un-shopped" = YOU will assume the risk as to whether the machine will work or not.  Casino direct machines most likely WILL have bad parts.  You must have the ability and proper clear and key chips to troubleshoot and repair the problems.  You will also pay for the additional replacements parts.  You WILL NOT call the company you bought the un-shopped machine from to help troubleshoot problems. 


Ford....please provide some information here to help educate.  On the 2 Bally's and IGT you just picked up. What was your average Time per machine to clean up and troubleshoot problems?  How many parts were no good and what is the approximate retail price to replace them?

Ford....please provide some information here to help educate.  On the 2 Bally's and IGT you just picked up. What was your average Time per machine to clean up and troubleshoot problems?  How many parts were no good and what is the approximate retail price to replace them?
[/quote]

Not sure on time. So far about 18 hr. All running. 2 Ballys finished. I went the extra & pulled everything out to clean.
IGT working except for ticket printer. Have to clean IGT. Parts for IGT -sound amplifier which I had. Light ballast for belly & top box.
Top box was rough but I had one. Main expense to put out is for top box printer (future Logic) which I have to get. Ballasts are coming from Rudy.
I also have to make something to close holes where tracking was on all 3.
Almost forgot when glue gets here transfer decal to new glass on 99 bottles of be. About 1/2 hr.
Likely 30 hrs. till I get finished. 

Try my cove base trick for the player tracking cover

You had a good idea. That is what i"m thinking about.

That's not going to work for a Bally with Pro2 / top box speakers.  

My advice would be to use some chromed film applied to plexi and adhered on the back.  If you go to some pics on my web site of the Bally Monte Carlos you will see what it looks like.  I can mail you a small piece if you want or you can pick it up on Ebay for cheap.

PS ~ glad your like the cove base trick like what I did on your RWB machine.  It's a cheap detail and looks nice.  You can make it look like new if you treat it with Amoral every other month.

Not sure on time. So far about 18 hr. All running. 2 Ballys finished. I went the extra & pulled everything out to clean.
IGT working except for ticket printer. Have to clean IGT. Parts for IGT -sound amplifier which I had. Light ballast for belly & top box.
Top box was rough but I had one. Main expense to put out is for top box printer (future Logic) which I have to get. Ballasts are coming from Rudy.
I also have to make something to close holes where tracking was on all 3.
Almost forgot when glue gets here transfer decal to new glass on 99 bottles of be. About 1/2 hr.
Likely 30 hrs. till I get finished.  
[/quote] FORDSBS IM REALY INTERESTED  in this glue transfer  of decal can you take pic and document procedure

That's not going to work for a Bally with Pro2 / top box speakers.  

My advice would be to use some chromed film applied to plexi and adhered on the back.  If you go to some pics on my web site of the Bally Monte Carlos you will see what it looks like.  I can mail you a small piece if you want or you can pick it up on Ebay for cheap.

I know what you mean.
I have something coming from Rudy that I think will work on 99 Bottles of beer.
It's a 99 bottles of beer glass that will fit over the tracking holes & the light will shine through.
Don't know if it'll work but going to try.
On the other will try your chrome thing.

That sounds about exactly right...10 hours a machine and an average loss of $50 to $75 per machine in parts.  On the bigger machines, like the Reel Touches, Barcrests, 19" I-Game Pandas....they are taking about 16 to 20 hours per machine.  Higher cost / loss rate on the I-Games....get a machine from the casino with a bad board or monitor (happens often....like every other machine) or bad software, LOL and sometimes all 3...then that's a huge hit.

PLUNGER BOY, I tried on another glass to remove decal (like Jim told me to do).
I put it in a pan with liquid dish detergent & soaked about 3 hr. & it came right off.
I have some glue coming that I'll try on something else first to make sure it's clear.

You want a matte' fixative (I Think) not a gloss one. The idea is to see the legend and not the glue. I pulled off a genuine IGT logo and could not even take the adhesive off with soap and water, it looks like stick glue or glue from a glue gun ?

Here are some pics of logos that I made with my inkjet printer, pretty damn close to the originals don't you think?

Dam good job !!!

Standard fixatives will yellow over time (a short time with heat applied by a bulb)....just ask Ron at Samron slots....he learned the hard way and saved me from making the same mistake.


You want to look for a product called a "optically clear aerosol adhesive".

Impressive 
Very nice job!

Do you think this will work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Aerosol-Crystal-Clear-Adhesive-Spray-Glue-Acid-FREE-/120683223389?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1947d95d (http://cgi.ebay.com/Aerosol-Crystal-Clear-Adhesive-Spray-Glue-Acid-FREE-/120683223389?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1947d95d)

looks right....note that with that product you get some "glare" or speckled spots that are noticeable if you are a couple inches away looking at it when the lights are off, but when on it looks pretty good.  I know that the 3M company has some optically clear film products that might work as well that is not aerosol based.  I like the idea of it because with an aerosol you cannot control the amount applied or be consistent.

I'll find out if it works. That on ebay is what I ordered.
Ford

Thanks All. To really be effective, print them on transparency sheets and place on top of white photo paper or if you really want to be OEM, thin white plastic sheeting cut to size. When I found out how much is charged for transparencies, I s--t my self 25 sheets for almost 40 dollars.

I know what you mean about the price. They are not bashful about charging for it.
Ford

Doesn't look like it will work. The other decal I tried came off nice. This one on 99 bottles of beer
I in process of taking off NOT SO GOOD. I'm soaking it like the other. There is a clear film on this one that loosened
up but decal with picture on is not letting go. IT SUCKS.
The other did not have clear film.
Ford

I finally got decal off. I will not come out the best because places where there were very bad cracks the decal is distorted.
I'll paste it on when I get time. I'll continue to look for a good belly glass. I know I will not be happy with this one.
 :208- :208-
Ford

It happened to me as well, but I practiced on a s--t glass to see if it would work. Where the glass cracked, it was too much.

I got it pasted on. When no light on you see a lot of imperfections.
When light is on it looks OK.
1st pic without light on.
2nd pic w/light on.
Thanks for looking, Ford

Good job. Can't see it that bad at all.

When you come down you'll see what I mean.
One way to solve it is I'll have to leave the light on all the time
Ford

b5srt.  I'm sorry for jacking this site. How did you make out? Did you get a machine?
Ford