New Life Games Tech Forums

I turn this machine on, get the 61 code, I press the white test button for 3 sec, get the 61-1, close the door & turn reset key one time, but it just stays on 61-1. I just got this machine so I may need to do a bv set, any ideas?

Thanks,

David

I know that on an S+ that I owned that the optics on the door were bad, once replaced, the 61-1 cleared. The machine needs to see the "Door Closed" condition before the 61-1 will clear

Is there a way to bypass these door optics?

Yes, check the door optics. And of course check your reset switch too.

How do I check the optics and the reset switch?

Most likely it is the optics, but you should check the reset switch too. Make sure the wires are actually connected to it. Then if you have a meter just measure across the contacts for continuity when you turn it (with power off). If you don't have a meter, you can wrap two pieces of thin wire around the contacts and run them out the bottom of the door (with it closed) and then short them to see if the 61_1 clears. Or unscrew the reset switch and pull it out of the side so you can short the contacts.

Look for broken wires on the door optics (both emitter and receiver). A video camera viewfinder can often be used to check if the emitter is working.

Do a search for bypass door optics for more ideas and how to bypass them if you have to. Of course if you have another machine, you can borrow the ones from it.

I just tried a set of working door optics from another one of my working S+ machines, same results. The optics were bad, the wires were broken at the base of the optics. Sin ce I have a set of working ones now, what else could I check? I know the reset key is working because when I power the machine up and close the door, I can turn the key and it goes through the sequence of numbers on the displays until I get to the end, then it goes back to showing 61.

How you bypass the optics on a S+.
1 Unplug both optics.
2 connect wire between the purple wire of the door optic harness to the red wire in hte cabinet optic harness.

If it persists then this one time a clear chip is needed.

I have misplaced my instruction sheet on how to clear then set my bv, can someone tell me this process?

Thanks,

David

I tried another working cpu board and changed the optics, now it initializes, reels spin, but won't take a coin and bottom light of the candle is flashing and insert coin is flashing and there is a "0" in the coins played window. What could I try next?

The flashing insert coin, candle and 0 are normal depending on the SP chip. They will stop flashing after the first game is played.

With the door open you can press the white button on the coin optic board and it should add a credit and you should be able to play it.

Next, check all of your coin comparator wiring. Of course make sure there is coin or token in it the same as what you are trying to play. You may even want to replace it. If that is ok, try turning the sensitivity dial back and forth a few times to help it make better contact. Then turn it all the way CCW and then CW just a hair.

Let us know the results.

I pressed the small white button, it added a credit, I closed the door and played it. The bottom light on the candle is still flashing and it won't accept a coin. I even tried a known working coin mech, same results. I also turned the dial on the coin mech all the way CCW then CW just a bit. Should the green led on the coin mech be on?

You won't see the green light unless the door is closed.

Is the bottom candle lamp flashing fast or slow? Check to make sure all other switches are closed (i.e. cash door etc).

<edit> I just checked mine and the candle will still flash until a real credit is played.  You may want to try bypassing the CC rake if the coins are dropping to the tray. If they are dropping to the hopper, then your coin optics are probably bad.

If it's the optics, see this thread
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=3882.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=3882.0)

Here's the clear chip procedure:


...and here's how to enable the bill validator:

http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/dbv.htm (http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/dbv.htm)

I think that's what I did on my S+ bypassed optics, RAM cleared machine (I think it counts to 256 to 0 or the other way around)? then got past 61-1 (ding) and we were playing!

before I say anything---  tell me what you know for sure!!    you have a good board? your optics are good?   machine still doesn't work!

if your board is good, and you can get into the test menu, then you can test the optics and know for sure that they are working.  form what you described putting a credit on the machine using the test switch on the optic board, closing the door and playing machine IS NOT CORRECT. if you closed the door (latch down) the credit should disappear. REASON-- optics are good and it is now resetting the machine, goodbye credit.

why don't you put the known good board in the machine, test the door optics, and determine if they are good!,  sounds like you have an open door optic loop, meaning that the cash can door switch may not be bypassed or other. 

try this first

Jim   

Also check the belly door switch is there  or jumper is installed as well.

Jim,

I assumed his door optics were now working because after he swapped the door optics and MPU he was able to clear the 61_1. If the door optics were still bad would't he still be stuck with the 6_1? I want to think he really didn't close the door to play the test credit.

i know the door optics are good and so is the mpu, both from one of my working machines. You said that the credit I get from pressing the white button on the coin optic area should disappear when i shut the door, but it did not, it allowed me to play the credit. From what I can tell, the cashbox optics have been bypassed, a blue and a blue with orange trace have been twisted together and shrink tubing around those 2 wires. Someone said something about a belly glass switch may be showing open, how would i check for that?

Thanks,

David

Try it again, but make sure you are pusing the door latch down all of the way. As Jim mentioned, the machine should reset if the optics are seeing each other. That happens when the latch is pushed down. If you are not pushing the latch down all of the way, it is still 'open'.

That means the machine hasn't sensed that the door is physically closed yet.
Are the optics aligned with each other?


Not all machines actually have this belly door switch.
Does yours have one?
If not, I would swap MPU's. I'm suspecting that there's a an open triac on the board.

Do you have a spare MPU to try?
If not, there are many deals on ebay for plain MPU's...

You may need one if you happen to mistakenly try to shove in
an MPU - while the power switch to the machine is on.

Bunker, he already has a known good MPU in there.

"i know the door optics are good and so is the mpu, both from one of my working machines"

And as noted earlier, the door optics must have worked at some point for him to clear the 61_1 he originally was stuck on.

that's why I always ask to use the diagnostic test in the machine. it will tell you in 5 seconds if your door optic loop is working. no fooling around with cameras or doing this or doing that . the test will tell all, then, if it is bad you can troubleshoot from there.  

test # 13 in the input tests will do this.



Jim

Question though. Originally he was stuck with the 61_1 that he could not clear probably due to the original bad optics. Doesn't that prevent you from getting into the self test to do the test? Sort of a catch 22?

most times even with a tilt code you can still get into the test menus, the only one that I could never get by was the 3300 code.

especially when they replaced the optics and mpu board, the machine still wouln't accept a coin, it would coin up using the  optic button, but with the door closed it would still play the credit, that's not normal, anytime you put credits on the machine with the door open they will be cleared by virtue of the door being closed and the optics acting as a reset.


Jim

We still need to verify he had the door latched all of the way when he played the test credit. I don't know how he could have cleared the 61_1 unless the optics were working. Especially since he put known good ones in there.

Maybe he burned out his new optics too?  :103-

how would I have burned out the optics?

Well, it seems as if I bumped one of my reels, now I am getting a 43 error code, how d I clear this?

Can you go back and either try the coin test again with the door closed and latched, or do the self test that Jim mentioned?  In order to move forward we need to settle the door optic debate.

Open and close the door. I guess that will answer the optic question. As noted, it's important to make sure you are latching it all the way or the optics won't line up.

His door optics might be working now...
However, I'm pretty sure you can still get a [43] error code while in "Service-Coin" mode... :8-

I could be wrong, but I think he had them working earlier since he had all errors cleared, and was then having coin acceptance issues. But we sort of got back to the door optics due to the coin test and saying the door was closed when he played the credit. But it's still unclear if the door was latched all of the way when that was done.

I guess we will know if the 43 clears.

The door latch is all the way down

close the door to try and clear the reel tilt.

Did the 43 clear? Open and close it one more time to be sure.

It also would help to give us a little more info on just what you are trying and the results.  :89-

I took the reel glass out so that I can view the optics and the are lined up perfectly, I tried to clear the 43 by opening and closing the door and moving the latch all the way down, but it still has not cleared. I was able to clear the 61-1 last night, so the door optics, since I robbed some from a working machine, seemed to have been working then. As I stated before, it would not take a coin,but droopped it into the tray. The bottom candle light was blinking at a rate of @ 2 blinks per second. I bumped the reels earlier tonight while the machine was on, now I have this 43 error. Should I do a ram clear? Everyone seems to go ape sh** whenever that is mentioned, but I don't know what else to try. I was told I could bypass the door optics by installing a jumper wire from the purple door optic wire to the red cabinet optic wire, but that would not allow me to clear the 61-1 last night, that's when I installed the known working door optics and then the 61-1 cleared.

Power it off and back on.
When you install the wire do it with the power on (one of the few times it is ok)
The optics can NOT be plugged in on a S+ for the bypass to work.
use a wire no bigger than 20 gauge 22 is best.

I just did a reel tilt to test whether the machine would clear it when I used a wire to bypass the optics
It was cleared when I installed the jumper, it did take the normal amount of time to clear.
When you install the jumper if the candle is flashing or on it will go out almost immediately

I installed the jumper with the power on and everything cleared, game is working properly now. The bill validator is not lit up or working, do I need to do a set denom for it to work? It takes quarters fine, it just won't take the bill in. Thanks for all the help to clear the error codes and especially with the jumper to bypass the door optics, guess I did it while the machine was powerd off. So if I can get it to take bills, I'll be in business.

How comfortable are you stepping through the menus or test pages in the machine?

Yes, you need to use your set chip to enable the BV and set the denomination. You will need to use your jumper again during that.

You still need to figure out what is going on with the optics since they worked for at least a short time. If they still work when you put them back in your other machine, you probably have a bad wire somewhere or a bad connection. I would reseat all of the plugs on the motherboard. If they don't work in the other machine, something cooked them.

I'm ok with the menu mode, what shall I do?

What game chip is in the machine (SP)?

1271, I re routed my jumper wire to bypass the door/cabinet optics, but I forgot what my jumper wire connects to, I know it is purple (door) to the red (cabinet) but do I connect it to the purple wire at the connector or cut it and connect to the purple wire that goes back into the cabinet and connect it to which red wire at the cabinet optic, next to the connector after I cut it or to the other side of the red wire which goes back into the cabinet. If someone has a pic, that would be quite helpful. Sorry but its late and I'm a little fuzzy headed.

bump

Borrowed from the handy search function.


And then this
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=7853.msg69889#msg69889 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=7853.msg69889#msg69889)

The optics should be disconnected or the bypass will not function

Connect wire between the purple wire of the harness for door optic to the red wire in  the harness for the cabinet optic.
No real need to cut anything in case you want to use optics again.

I would install a cherry switch in the bypass because there are times the machine needs to see the door open or you wont be able do some things.

Sorry if this is redundant but, do I unplug both optics and leave them both intact, then cut the purple wire that comes from the cabinet harness(that plugs into the door optic) and attach one end of my jumper wire. Then cut red wire from the cabinet harness and attach the other end of the jumper. Now my question is does the jumper wire connect to the purple and red wire closest to the harness or the other end which routes back into the cabinet? If that was confusing, I can take a pic of the way I have mine hooked up if that will help. I have noticed that the board tray is a little difficult to line up and slide down into place, but all of the pins on the bottom of the cpu are fine, could it possibly be the bottom cabinet board that the cpu tray slides down into?

Thanks again guys for all of your help,

David

why are you wanting to cut wires?

I didn't have to cut any to do the bypass.
Mine was temporary of course.
I would buy the matching connectors to connect my bypass to the existing connectors
Once you disconnect them do think about them while doing the bypass (except to use the connectors if want to re-use them)
just insert one end of the wire into the door connector for the door optic (purple wire) and insert the other end into the cabinet connector for the optic (red wire)

Now if you want to make neat and more permanent, buy new connectors or use the ones from a set of optics.
But install a cherry switch in the wire so when the door is open the machine detects the door open
the test button and the pseudo coin button on the coin optics will not work or cause a tilt if used when door is closed.