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I looked at a Video Poker today called Triple Play.    I wasn't smart enough to look at the model # plate to see who made it.  It has a screen that looks like this:

(http://www.softpedia.com/screenshots/Triple-Play-Video-Poker-Gadget_2.png)

Anyway, when I first got there, it was giving a "Hopper Empty" error.  I put some quarters in the hopper, then as it was paying out, turned off the "Cash Out" button so that I wouldn't have to keep doing so until all 800 credits were paid out.  After a bit, it stopped paying out coins and was working.  The focus on the Ceronix monitor was pretty off, so I decided to adjust it.  Couldn't find the power switch at first, so I pulled the hopper and removed the plug at the back.  Then I saw the power switch, so I replaced the plug and hopper, shut it off, and removed the monitor.  Did this a few times as I adjusted the focus minutely until it was sharp, then I got it back together and turned it on - only to get a "Coin In Jam" error.

It wasn't doing this before.  I pulled the entire comparator out, cleaned the optics, checked all the connections, etc.  Still have the error.  Can't clear it with the reset key or the reset button.  I checked the stacker, but it gives it's own error when open or messed up.  Shutting the door, cycling the power, etc doesn't help.

Now, when I was in diagnostics, I put it into control panel I/O test, but could not get any of the buttons to register.  Perhaps a common ground or connector is unplugged or missing?  I couldn't see anything obvious.  Reseating the CPU didn't help, either.

Might there be a fuse or breaker for the inputs from the door?  Or perhaps a wire pinched in a hinge?  Any help would be appreciated...

It looks like an IGT, although the speaker, bet one and bet max at bottom center are new to me.  Action Games did the Triple Play software for IGT Game Kings, and maybe some others.  If it's and IGT, check that all the I/O cards are fully seated, they are a 3" x 4" card with a metal frame and handle.  On an upright machine there's one or two on the door, too.

What I don't understand is how anything I did caused this error to pop up.  I just stopped the payout, played it with some credits, then pulled the monitor a couple times while I adjusted the focus.  The hopper was pulled once, but that shouldn't cause a coin in jam.

If it helps, the slot sorta looks like this - but without the extra stuff up top...

(http://media.igt.com/images/gl_5181.jpg)

Yep, that's an IGT.  The "Coin In Jam" is a fairly common error for things like pinched or shorted wires, bad or not fully seated I/O boards, or loose/unplugged connectors.  We get the error quite often and don't even have any coin in hardware in most of the games anymore.  Since you took some things apart, I would check all the connectors and unplug and reseat all the boards (with power off).

Does the game recognize the door as open when it is open and closed when it is closed?  It should say "Door M" somewhere on the screen when the door is open (usually somewhere near the top or bottom), and that should go away when it is closed.  You will still have "Closure M" on the screen until a game is played.

I'm trying to figure out how you turned off the cash out button and how that would stop the cash out ??  The only two ways I can think of to end a cash out, is let the hopper finish the pay out or do a full clear.

Did you buy this machine ?

I wonder about that too, but he said it was working after that, so...  :5-

No, didn't buy it.  I was called out to fix it (along with some other things).  Unfortunately it's over an hour each way to get to it.

I started just throwing quarters back in it until it paid out a couple hundred, then repeat.  I was getting tired of that, so I pushed the "cash Out" button (hoping it would change to credits), then turned the Jackpot Reset key.  It continued paying out for about another 100, then stopped.  No errors.  I was able to hit the "Bet 5" button and play the game using the 600+ credits still on the machine.

I did see a pinched wire with some bare spots near where the door latch was.  It looked like an insulated ground wire, but I insulated the bare spots.  I removed the coin comparator housing and checked the wiring to the coin comparator inside.  I found the coin interlock coil unplugged, but plugged in or not doesn't do anything.

Not sure if I got a "Door M" message or not, as I wasn't looking for one.

I didn't see any other pinched wires, but I guess I can drive all the way back out there (have other repairs to finish up anyway) to look at it some more.  Is it the optics that would give the "Coin In Jam" error?  Not getting the signal through the optics?  Just want to see what I should be tracing...

Which particular I/O board could cause this error AT?
The one inside the door back panel or
the one on the MPU enclosure?  :129- :128-
The I/O board on the MPU enclosure is for the reels only, no?
I'm trying to single out the source of the "Coin-in Jam" error... thanks!

I'm having a very similar problem as well.
On another thread...the problem lay with the door harness.
Once it was replaced...the error went away.>>>
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=12909.msg111258#msg111258 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=12909.msg111258#msg111258)

Clear chipping does not eliminate the error as it comes back.  :8- :37-

When I had this error on mine it ended up being the door IO card went bad probably due to a wiring short. The cabinet IO board controls backlit reel lighting when neccessary, but other things like the meter board run through it for normal machine operation. My first error was the meter disconnected error which should have indicated a bad cabinet IO board, but here again, it was actually one of the door IO cards that was ultimately the bad board. I beleive a shorted player panel button was the root cause

There  is just one SMALL problem, Game King does NOT have IO boards like a S 2000.   

Really? They don't use IO boards on those to interface the player panel to the motherboard? Gonna have to buy one someday so I can expand my knowledge :89-

The ones we have here in our casino do.  They even have the same part # as the S2000 I/O board, 75427802, for the door card.

My experience has been the same as cowboygames', that the door I/O card gives me the most problems with coin in and meter errors.

I think this is called a IO board, but like I said it's nothing like a S 2000.

I guess I will break my own rule again.  why don't we look at what went down. modessitt messed with the monitor ( that didn't cause a coin error ) he messed with the key and cash out button, that didn't cause a coin error because the hopper went ahead and paid out to it's hopper limit. Then repaired a bad wire at the door. Then for some unexplained reason he removed the coin comparator, most likely with the power on.  BINGO  "coin error."    I think most of us have heard of stacked errors on a S2000 and Game King, sometimes you will be supprised what happens if you open and close the door latch a few times. ( I call it masterbating the door latch )( If the machine begins to grin at you, better STOP)  If the door latch doesn't clear the error. use a Key 040 to clear and key the machine.


AnotherTech   I have 5 Game Kings sitting here and none of them have a IO like a S 2000.  For what it's worth. it plugs stright into the Mother Board

Good pictures Buzz...
None of that stuff is in my S2000.
Maybe Another Tech has overseas machines perhaps -
a different model or type of IGT Game Kings?  :103-

Maybe modessitt could enlighten us with a few snapshots of his door and I/O cards?

Buzz these are the older generation/style of GameKings that we got. The newer style machines (iGame Style) have the smaller I/O cards that are on the door. The pure GameKing models have one door I/O card, while the iGame models that have the double row button decks have two door I/O cards.

I will shoot a picture on the phone and attach it in a few.

CaptainHappy :95-

Buzz, I'm not familiar with the part you posted.  IGT has been using the "Game King" name for a long time now and I don't think the machines are all alike.  That's the only explanation I can think of.  :103-

The I/O board that I am talking about is the same as the S2000 and Igames.  The 3"x4" ones.  All of the Game Kings we have, have that I/O board.

Anyway, that's the one that has caused me problems with "Coin In Jam" errors.

Bunker, our machines are U.S.  We are a Nevada casino, Gold Dust West, in Reno.  (Where our esteemed Joeylc once worked and convinced me to take a second job.  :5- )

Edit to add:  Ah, I see that CaptainHappy had the answer to the different parts.  K+.

Here is a pic from a 19" iGame/AVP ready model. It shows the two I/O boards on the door. These are a lot smaller than the big I/O boards above the MPU tray on the earlier model GameKings. Before the CSI'S :209- :209- :209- report it, the machine is filthy! :88- I stood behind the door so that there were no naked reflections!  :200- :72- :97- :208-

CH :95-

oh  Capitan...... :127- :209- uh...where is it?  :72-

ADD>>> YOU would have to put the pic up AFTER I posted huh?  :30-  :96-

By the way...are BOTH of those I/O cards the same kind?
Now why would a GK need two of them?
In the same spot???

Refresh Bunker..... Give me a break it is hard doing it from a cell phone!!! :97- Specially when you accidentally hit a wrong button! Good thing about the software is that when I nuke someone it asks for a confirmation, and then a password approval.... Sometimes the fingers stray on that little touchscreen! :279-

CaptainHappy :95-

Just picking on ya Capt.
or are you pickin' on me... :285- :298-
Who's pickin' their nose right now?!?!?
DISgusting... :96- :200-

I am pretty sure that they are the same, but since my machine is working great, I am not going to unlug them and look! :60- :60- :60- Someone who knows off the top of their head can confirm for us, or I will check out the schematics later if need be. :71- I would JINX myself! :97- :97- :97-

A Gameking that used to be an Igame would have two, also there are some GameKings that have the second row of player panel buttons that require the second I/O. I am pretty sure the same follows with the S2000 with the double row button deck.... BRB... Yup I just looked and confirmed that fact. :89-

CH :95-

Just as I was picking on you!!!

You know the saying....

You can pick your nose,
You can pick your Friends,
BUT.... You shouldn't pick your friend's nose! :72- :280-

CH :95-

 :259- Right back at ya!!! :244- :88-

That goes back a while..... I too am a Nevadan originally, born and raised... I was born in Reno, lived there for a little bit until we moved to Tahoe, and then we Moved back to Sparks. I went off for College and some time as a Midshipman with the US Navy, and never moved back, but I visit Reno/Sparks quite often! You should PM me with your INFO and I will look you up next time I visit my family! I have not been in the GDW for some time now...

CaptainHappy :95-

OK, I FELT THAT THE FORCE WAS WITH ME AND I UNPLUGGED THE BOARDS AND COMPARED THE PART NUMBERS TO DOCUMENT IT HERE. (Power was off of course!) Part numbers (14930203 REV A) match, you can zoom in on the pics.

CH :95-

P.S. If I end up with coin in errors I will probably do myself in!  :208-

P.P.S It booted up fine!!! :89- :71- :89-

I'm glad you booted up okay Capt.
I rotated the photo of the door I/O board so our members can see the numbers a little easier>>>

II believe that part # is for the metal frame, the board # is actually on the board. Common ones end in 7801 for single row player panels and 7802 for 2 row panels

I would tend to agree with you cowboy because when I first saw that "1921-B" -
I thought of my MPU board having that same label on it.  :89-

The only problem with your scenario is that I got the "coin in jam" error BEFORE I ever touched the comparator.  I played some credits, then pulled the hopper looking for the power switch.  Not seeing it at first, I unplugged the main plug.  Then I saw the power switch, turned it off, replaced the main plug, replaced the hopper, pulled the monitor and adjusted the focus (did it a few times, powering it up and down as I went along).  Once the focus was right, it powered up with the coin jam error. After that, I started messing with the comparator and looking at the wiring by the door latch lever.  Possibly I need a Key40 clear.  Couldn't tell you.  I'd have to get one, as I don't have one now.

And my pictures look like what you have on your post.  I do not have any I/O boards mounted on the door...

The error actually has nothing to do with anything being wrong with your coin handling equipment most likely. I'm betting you shorted something that killed a board and the error you're getting is just how the problem presents itself. I pushed the service button on mine and shorted something to get that error message

Wonderful.  Would the shorted out part be on that I/O board mounted under the monitor?  If so, I'll pull it and check for shorts.  Hopefully the part in question isn't one of those ones that are hard to get...

Nothing is hard to get...all you need is $$$

Everything you've said so far indicates an IO board problem. They're not real repair friendly either, you might try to find out the number on the board and take one with you.

HAHAHA!  You assume I have this stuff available.  We're not really a slot repair company.  We fix arcades, pinballs, and jukeboxes usually, and I try to fix slots for people who call us out for other games.  Just last week I fixed an old Mills Vest Pocket.

So far I've been able to fix all the ones I've messed with, but I usually have to track down parts and wait for them to come in.

I'm going out there today to do a clear and set on an IGT Reel slot that I changed the battery on (had to wait on the chips).  I'll look over some more stuff, then pull the I/O board and bring it back to the shop to check out.  Considering that none of my buttons registered during the I/O test in Diagnostics, it's most likely an issue with the I/O board, probably caused by the wire I found pinched...

I think you're on the right track, just recall you saying it was like an hour drive each way, trying to maybe save you another trip is all :89-

Well, guess what?

I get out there and find it working just fine.  Apparently after I left it off all day, they turned it back on and it is working just fine.  No more errors.  So, I replaced some bad fluorescents (they should have made it easier to replace that bottom door bulb so it's not required to pull the coin plate to get it out) and it's now working just fine.

The memory clear in the IGT S+ went okay, as did the Set for the DBV.  All 3 slots they have are now working fine and have all the bulbs working.

Anyways, thanks for everyone's help...

to change the belly glass bulb.
If no locks on the machine
1 close the main door, it is easier that way.
1 place hand in front of the belly door.
2 pull out on the knurled latch that is in front of the main latch.
3 the belly door should swing down. It may be stubborn.
4 remove the one screw at the right end of the lamp bracket lift out and replace bulb.
5 reassemble and close belly door.

hmm...some older S+'s do not have a belly drop door.
I hate changing those bulbs.
The easier way I've found was to carefully unscrew the fluorescent out of the sockets,
partly close the door so the door retaining wire is drooping a bit,
and pull it out on an angle by the door hinges.
There's is no need to take apart the coin mech bracket this way.