New Life Games Tech Forums

I was changing some games on my game maker for the first time but had watched a friend do his on an older model game maker. I guess mine as a newer model asked different questions during set up and as I was trying to key through the jurisdiction setting I landed on jurisdiction 2 and keyed it. I had seen a posting on this site about jurisdictions and now wish I had paid more attention. Long story short is that my coin comparitor doesn't work and now I can't seem to change any of the saferam settings anymore. It doesn't let me. It just tells me... please keyswitch to continue but didn't let me change anything such as jurisdiction or coin accepter or the like.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks, Jim

Just RAM clear it again and start over.  :61-

I believe that is what I did twice. P-10 clear chip with #7 & 8 dip switch in the up position unless you're reffering to something different.
Thanks, Jim

Hey Jim,

Don't know if you have manual or not, but complete ram clear requires all switches ( #1 thru #8 to off)  to be turned.  Most of us just use #7 & #8 for unlocked jurisdictions, to change games, mains, graphics etc. etc. Worth a try.

Richard

# 1 Autoplay
# 2 Ignore Checksum
# 3 Show State Status
# 4 Host Override
# 5 Printer/Hopper Overide
# 6 Watchdog Overide
# 7 EEPROM Clear
# 8 Ram clear (tm here)


If all goes well you shoud be able to make your choices(buttons or touch screen), before turning key for next choice.

The chip that stores the jurisdiction is the small 96C56 EEPROM in socket U3. (See attached picture.) A normal full SafeRam clear will not affect it.

If you have locked your jurisdiction, you have two choices:

1. If you own an EPROM burner, you can simply pull the chip and erase it electrically, using the burner's electrical erase command*. This takes just a fraction of a second.
    These chips don't have a UV window, so an EPROM UV eraser won't work or be needed here.

    Once you've erased the chip, simply turn on SW1 switches 7 & 8, put the clear chip in P10, power up, and perform a full clear. You'll be able to choose a new
    jurisdiction during the setup.

    Note: Once you've cleared the EEPROM, the machine will not boot in normal mode and you will get a BSOD. This is normal. Just setup the clear and complete it.


2.  Buy a "deep blue" clear chip from Jim (Blueridge slots) to clear the jurisdiction. This "special" clear chip resets the data in the above chip.



Personally, I recommend option 1, even if you don't already own a burner, because you will then be able to use the EPROM burner to back up all of your game chips, mains, and graphics. Of course, if you don't already own a burner, option 2 is less expensive in the short-term, but short sighted IMHO.



*When setting up the burner, choose chip 96C56B (16 bit) no matter what the last letter displayed on the chip is.


Here is a link (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=9190.msg80355#msg80355) to a prior discussion about this problem. We have since confirmed that erasing the chip allows a successful full clear and jurisdiction reset.


Here is a picture of the chip in question.


StatFreak :31-

SilverFerret, yes that was what I meant (although I usually used 6, 7, &8), but didn't remember that it wouldn't fix a locked juridiction, sorry.  StatFreak has the solution though.  :89-

StatFreak, after reading your link I remember having this issue before.  I just swapped out the U3 chip from another bad board that was being traded in, as it was easiest.

I never tried that. :71- I only have the one board. It makes sense. :89-

Different valid data in the replacement might force (and allow) the machine to be cleared. I have to say that Golflover and I did try putting my valid data into his machine and it didn't work. He would know more about what happened than I would. It might depend on which mains and jurisdiction the second chip were set up for? :128-

Thanks for all the info. All three ideas sound good. Replacing the chip with another sounds easiest if someone has one. My next thought is the burner or maybe replace the chip and buy a burner anyway depending on the price and complexity of use. One way or another, I've learned something and hopefully won't make this mistake again. Can someone clue me in which jurisdiction I do want? Also it asked something about "gamble only" or "hand pay and gamble", which of those do I want when setting it up? I saw someone's settings that they use in a previous post and plan to use the same but want to know what the jurisdictions mean and is I hit a big jackpot on my machine, I don't want to have to run 8000 quarters through it.
Is there a way to set it for hand pay only like my game king? I haven't seen that if there is.
To summarize, anyone have an extra of the chip I need, and how much for an EPROM burner?
Thanks, Jim

The chip can be purchased new for pennies, not counting the SH, which will bring it to dollars. I'm not sure where I put my post detailing things :200- :5-, but the original manufacturer is out of business; however, Mouser has a replacement.



For home use, many of us own and like the GQ-4X from MCUmall. It's about $100. Professional models are faster and have more features, but unless you're like Buzz and have 50-100 machines to set up, the GQ-4x will work fine.



Jurisdiction One is standard U.S. and works fine. If you want to be able to load the machine with more than $3000 of unwashed (non-wagered) credit at a time, choose jurisdiction Eight and read this post (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=9985.msg86983#msg86983).


TIP:  :214- You don't need to use a special jurisdiction to limit your hopper pays, setup jackpot lockup limits, or to allow unlimited credit on the machine. That's all done in the settings menus.

For some mains, you will be asked to input an absolute maximum limit during the clear/setup. For others, it will happen the first time you set limits. This is a one-time setting (per clear) and I recommend putting in all 9's to get the highest possible amount (it's 2³² pennies, or $42 million and change). Then you can set and change the limits to any value you wish in the regular menus.

Since jackpot, credit, and hopper limits are separate, you can have predetermined sized jackpots lock up for effect (at the cost of losing the credits when you turn the key), or have all wins pay to credits (at the cost of having no jackpot lockups w/music.) You will still be able to clear the credits with the key when you press "cash out" if they are greater than your set hopper limit.



That only applies if you set up tokenization, and tells the machine how to handle fractional credits -- credits that are less than the value of one coin. In such cases, the machine will pay out coins until the remaining credit is less than the value of one coin, and then either:

1. Leave the credits on the machine and force the player to either play them off or play until the credits equal an exact multiple of the coin value.
2. Hand Pay: The remaining credits trigger a lockup with music and are hand paid (turn the jp key to clear them off).
3. Gamble: The player can take a chance. If the player wins, they receive one coin. If they lose, they get nothing. The machine pays true odds (no house edge) based on the number of credits and the value of a coin. For example, if the player has $80 and a coin is worth $100, the odds are 8 in 10 that the player will win. If the player has $5 and a coin is worth $100, the player will only win 1 in 20 attempts.

Personally, I choose "hand pay and gamble" so that I always have all three choices available when I'm playing. However, I experienced a glitch with "gamble" using the 20T mains on a V7000. The graphics might possibly affect the glitch as well, but I'm not sure. Actually, for home use it was cool. Basically, the gamble ALWAYS won, no matter what! I WISH I could have found a Gamemaker in a casino that did that!!!

Hope all this helps.

Stat :31-

I should clarify that when I replaced the chip, it was from another board running the same jurisdiction (1 or 5, I don't remember which, but all we've ever used in Nevada is 1 and 5) AND with older mains (I think we were running -12 or something close).  It sounds like a brand new chip will work, from reading StatFreaks link.

Thanks so much guys. I don't know if you ever get tired of hearing it but you truely are the best. I'll update as I get this worked out. Thanks again, Jim

Update:
I replaced the U3 chip as was suggested and it worked perfectly. I was able to run through the normal clear chip procedure without a hitch.
Thank you so much to everyone that helped. What a great site with great people. Thanks again, Jim

I remember doing this..lol   and Yes Stat... I am still alive... lots has went on in the last few months. am back home again hopefullly for a while now...

Buy the burner, it just make things alot easier!!!!!! and they are fun to play with!!! (When you have the time :) )

I tryed to switch the u3 with the chip in an older gamemaker the other day and it allowed me to change all the other eeprom settings but the juristiction remained locked.

The only way I was able to clear mine when I locked it up was to get a burner and clear the chip that way.  It would not allow me to write to the chip, but I could clear it.  When I restarted my machine it had no settings so i was able to select the jurisdiction again and all the other settings. After that I was and still am up and running. Stat spent a few days/weeks assisting me with it til I got the burner and cleared the chip.

actually today I swapped out the mains and the u3 with my other board and I was able to clear all the eeprom settings including the juristiction on both  machines. I already have an old eprom burner but it doesnt work with eeproms so this worked out pritty well for me. I probly could use a new burner how much did it end up costing. 

For light use most of us went with the GQ-4X from MCUmall. It's about $100.
The pro burners are faster and may have more options such as chip type auto-detect, but they cost two to three times as much or more.