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Hello everyone. Our powers combined, let's get this slot working!

What we have (I think):
     Machine Name: Joker's Wild
     Price Paid: $40
     Key: None, had to drill lock
     Model Number: ??
     Power Supply: "Yellow Dot +" ??
     MPU: 8116-A2, 8116-SDS3 (B-D) Daughter Board, 8116-Sub
    EPROM-Game:
          8968-SLR-0024-3
          L90-0344
          Kobetron # 36HP
     EPROM-Machine:
          8933-0041-1
          L92-0736
          Kobetron # P90A
     Sound: 0822
     Reel Date: 1990

What Works:
     Upper florescent, only the upper terminal of the lower two florescents plugs will start a bulb, all other bulbs (minus the untested button bulbs) work, the Coin Comparator red led is lit

What Doesn't Work:
     On power-up, nothing but the above mentioned shows signs of life. No movement, no sound, no 7-Segment displays to troubleshoot, neither bulb on the sides of the 25 cent light up,

What I've Tried:
     All fuses check good, removed the noise filter, held the reset button while powering up, checked for loose connectors, checked for shorts around and behind the MPU, checked psu voltages as described by UNIMAN.

Where do we go from here?

Photos:

Power Supply Photo:

MPU:

Looks like you did your homework and thanks for the pic's!!!

You said you removed the noise filter and I see the silver noise filter from the back of the machine on the floor. This filter is usually not a problem, it's the one inside the power supply that can cause problems. But, if you checked the power supply voltages and they check out, no need to bother with the one inside the power supply.

Question; Where does that black cord plugged into the top of the power supply go? 
And where did that green box next to the silver noise filter come from?

Your power supply is a Yellow Dot and your machine wiring is modified for that power supply. No problem there.

It could be the 5Vdc from the power supply. If it is not correct and steady the board will sense this and not fire up.  Or it could be the board.
The coin comparitor lighting up is odd. It receives power and is grounded by board operation. It shouldn't be lit unless the door is closed, locked, and ready for play.

Since you have gone this far I would removed the MPU connectors mounted to the rear of the cabinet and check behind it for any screws that could short the MPU. Sometimes they fall in there. If it's clean back there then the MPU or 5Vdc is the problem.

Other notes; Your game chip number is  8968-5LR-0024-3. The 5L means 5-line game.
Your game chip is a 28-pin chip, usually Uni's have a 24-pin game chip in that 28-pin socket. No big deal. Yours have the original Universal labels so I assume they are originals.
The wires connected to the SDS daughter board can be removed as they would be connected to a casino monitoring system. Not needed for home use.
The Black/Blue/Purple wires coming from the 8116 SUB board are for progressive meter systems. You can wrap them up in a rubberband and set them on the board. 
Don't suspect the MPU battery, Uni's can play without the battery, just can't retain records if shut off.

Uniman, thanks for the support. Much appreciated.
So we're on the same page, this process may be a bit slower than I'd like with my work schedule and directing my father through troubleshooting procedures from  out of town. It's officially his father's day present. Even broken, he shares the passion to fix.

Answers:
1. Black cord travels to the top of the machine and, I'm guessing, was terminated at a bill validater at some point. No longer present.
2. I believe the green box you're referring to is the shroud to the noise filter. This was attached to the back of the cabinet (inside) behind the hopper.

Based on your input, I'll recheck the voltages and post accordingly, paying closer attention to AC or DC this time, along with re-validating fuses.
I'll also pull the shroud away from the MPU backplain to inspect for shorts.

Questions:
1. Any idea why the left reel would be so discolored?
2. What are the chances the one of the 36 voltages rectifiers on the board is shot? (nothing shows obvious burn out)
3. I've searched and searched for schematics and/or a manual. What do you suggest?
4. What should the first signs of life be?
5. Any chance the backplain plug terminals or socket have poor connection? (goes back to finding a schematic to verify voltage is making it to the MPU, although this would be quite difficult considering the design)

Thanks again.

I would remove that black cord, not needed.
The noise filter cover, of course.  :25-

1. The discolored left reel. I think it's the paper that was used. Seen this a lot with Uni's, I call it the brown egg syndrome.  :72- That strip may have been a replacement or the only one not replaced.
2. I'm not really good with power supplies, but my limited experience with the later model yellow dots is all positive. Usually it's the older green and red dots that have the problems. But that doesn't mean yours isn't bad. And when they are bad nothing obvious is usually seen.
3. I'll send you a pm.
4. On a normal startup the lights should light up, the sound will be a chirp-chirp-chirp meaning the door is open, and the WIN meter will show a flashing 50 and the top candle light will come on. When you close and lock the door the INSERT COIN light will flash. What your machine is doing can be done with MPU unplugged. So no MPU.
5. Very doubtful. The older Uni's (8116 & 8800) are very good at making connection.

Right now I'm suspecting the MPU. You said the comparitor has a red light showing power and it should not. Try turning the machine on with the MPU removed and see if the comparitor has a red light showing power. If it does that means it is grounded and it shouldn't be. If it has no power with the MPU removed that means the MPU is grounding it when it shouldn't.
Either way you need to remove the connectors in the back of the machine and look behind them, watch for a screw, nut or washer falling out of there. I've had that happen. The wires are insulated right up to the connectors, but there is room to cause a short.

I took a look in the garage and I have nice reel strips for that machine. So if your interested when it's up and running, let me know.

Jim

K+ to both of you guys, and words of encouragement for Hank.  I've been following this thread and hope to see soon that you've got your machine working!

Great news! Joker's Wild has been revived. On my second round of psu checks, I found the dc 5V was not stable. I then removed the psu noise filter and heard it churp to life!

I was able to run through every test program, all major components seem to be working.
I'm pretty sure the cc is shot and I'm having troubles getting consistent game play.

I'll describe in detail later, I'm actually at a wedding. (Wife dirty look here) :72-

Forget the wedding, we're talking bigger things here! SLOTS!!  :97-
Tell your wife I'm kidding!!  :30- :30- :30-

Congrats on the find and correction.
Have you tried turning down the sensitivity of the CC? Little hole, bottom right corner. Turn the setting opposite direction of the arrow.

 :136-

 :105-