New Life Games Tech Forums

Well I'm finally stepping up to an IGT S-2000 machine. I bought it as a project machine, it needed an MPU, cash box, top glass and tracking bracket and hopper mounting plate, and coin tray. Thanks to Jim at Blue Ridge Slots and Darell at Slot4home for there help with my parts needs so far.. Well I finally got around to putting everything together over the weekend, installed my back lit reels and control board and wiring, swapped out the game chip. I powered it up to test it out, and within 10 seconds the candle was flashing and an alarm sounded, and RAM Error was displayed in the blue read out. This is my first attempt at fixing up an IGT, I usually work on my older Bally's so I have no idea was to do next, and didn't see any thing on here for this message..  :99- :103- I'm attaching a few pics of before to now on my machine...

Now pics... I still need to swap out my new stickers from 2 to 3 coin...

With Door Open, turn Jackpot Reset Key, (probably 4 times, each error turn key) then it will say Press and Hold Self Test for 2-3 Seconds, do that, then Close Door, it may give you another error or spin up

Thanks. I have a door lock and reset key coming in the mail hopefully today from Barry at Foxs Slots. I'll try this when the key gets here.

that should do it as long as it didn't have a printer installed on it before if you get a printer disconected or sas link down message you will need to get a clear 17 to clear it

OK... I just received my reset key in the mail and I did the reset of the machine. Now I'm getting a new message. It says  Game Eprom CRC Mismatch '0xB000001.  I took pictures of my MPU and Eproms. The Stepper Base Eprom SB-100849 is the only thing I have changed... What my next move?

I think you need to use an SB000100 when using S+ SSxxxx eproms in an S2000?
I'd remove the SS chip from the U17 socket.
It's not needed as the SB100849 is the correct SB chip for your game.

Remove chip labeled U17.

Then keep keying the machine until you see the info in the post by Blueridge.

OK Thanks. I'll try to do this before my daughter softball game, playing Mr Mom tonight, fixing dinner, and trying to fix my machine all at the same time... :79-  I'll get back to you in about 3 hrs... :288-

OK.. had a couple of minutes to play.. I did the resets and the display reads to close main door, but when I do nothing happens? Does this mean the door optics are bad ?

Bunker . to many 0s  . its a SB001000 for ss chips in a S2000

Did the door latch seat all the way? They can be a little tight

The door on this machine is a pain to close, but will close tight if I have the coin tray on it. I don't know if the door side optics work since they were off the machine when I picked it up.

Might just be an alignment issue with the optics then. You can fudge the lock lever up and down a hair at a time to see if it makes a connection and then adjust the optics accordingly

I'll check that when I get home Cowboy. How do you tell if an optic is bad? It could be possible I don't have it mounted correctly on the door. Is it possible to see a pic of one mounted correctly?

OK back from softball and back to the machine  :277-  I have a new message to deal with... I removed the chip labeled u17 and have gotten the door optics adjusted. The new message is about the ticket printer I believe, it says, Printer Communication Failure Call Attendant Restart Closure M.  Now I do have an issue with the wiring on the cash box door. The top switch has 2 red wires that are disconnected at the switch since it's broken, but if you follow the wires out the back of the underside of the cash box they are cut? I do not see the other 2 red wires that they would be attached to any where. Could this be my new error message or is it the ticket printer?? Here are pics of the cash box door wiring...

Tag on cash box wires...

Red ones are trash. You can strip the others back and tie them together.

Is the printer power connected .. connection should be at the back wall just below the controller for the backlit.

Just to give you some details about what those messages mean.

"Restart" means that the machine was just recently restarted (powered on after being turned off) (and a paid game has not yet been completed since that restart).
"Closure" means that a door that had been reporting that it was open has just recently been closed (and a paid game has not yet been completed since that door was closed).
"M", next to the Closure message means that it was the Main door that had been open (and is now closed)

If you had a "Door Open M" message, that would mean that the machine is detecting that the main door is open.

As such, that's some good news for your optics -- that means that the machine is acknowledging that the main door is opening and closing.

With the machine turned on, open the door and look at the printer. One, the bezel light should be on and two, you can tell if it's plugged in by pushing the paper feed button on the front of the printer to see if a ticket feeds through. There is a plug coming off the back of the printer, 6 pin I believe, that should be plugged in or have a match near by. If you need to pull the printer out, just remove the 2 screws that hold it to the reel shelf and slide it forward so you can trace the harness easier

Well I pulled the ticket printer and checked its connections, they seemed fine. Reinstalled it and powered up the machine and it's up and running, Woo Hoo   :136-  Came in the house and grabbed a hand full of quarters, of course I forgot to put one in the comparator  :25- did that and it plays great  :3-. Now I have a few minor issues to wrap up. First is that the coins are not going into the hopper but down the over flow chute. I'm not sure why yet but maybe I don't have the coin mech install straight or  :103-. Second I noticed that my back lit reels never lit up on and win? Third my right upper speakers not working. Thanks for everyones help so far, but feel free to send any ideas on the last few problems... I'll check back tomorrow, just looked at the clock and it's after midnight, :279- need to get up in 7 hrs for work... :294-

I had that problem on an overflow deflector and couldn't figure it out so I unplugged the damn thing. As far as backlit lit reels, check to make sure it actually has them and all plugs are in place. Behind reel 3 there should be two plugs going to the backlight controller mounted tho the back wall of the cabinet just below reel shelf level. Then there should be a jumper from the backlight controller to the cabinet I/O board on the side of the MPU housing. If you have all that and it still doesn't work, we'll talk again. Last, but not least, pull your MPU board out and see if it has a multimedia board plugged in covering about half the surface of the MPU board. If you do, then go into 3.xx programming for sound controls and see if the game has an option for multimedia settings. If it does, then you probably just need to set stereo sound instead of mono. If there is no mutimedia board in the machine, then you'll have to do some wire alterations and we'll talk again OR you can buy a MMLII board/sound simm and give it the sound it deserves

Thanks Cowboy, I'll check that all out when I get home from work.. I do have a pic posted earlier of my MPU earlier in this thread, and I don't believe it has the multimedia board. How much do they run?

Gary

You're probably looking at $40 to $50 for a board and sound simm as a rough guess. Sorry, shoulda looked back through the posts

Will that multimedia board plug into my MPU. I see these enhanced MPU boards EBay, is that what I need? Kind of confusing on your first build... :103-

The MMLII board is designed for all 500 series MPU boards. Enhanced or 1270 boards are a differant series MPU, require a differant backplane and use a legacy adapter board instead of the MMLII to run S2000 games. I'm not sure what specific sound simm you need to go with that game, but I suspect a DSV00042 would do it. From the looks of your MPU picture you have a 502 board so the MMLII is what you need for enhanced sound capabilities. Now, after you install the new add-on board you're probably going to experience some speaker static, but it's nothing a half dozen 10 ohm resistors won't fix. Don't get discouraged though, the trouble of getting the board and making it sound good is definately offset by the end result

Ok... i was just out playing the machine.. I unplugged the power to the overflow deflector under the coin compaitator and the coins are now going in the hopper.. Now for the backlit reels, they have power, the lights are glowing, but I still have not seen them light up on any jackpot wins. Had one 180 credit hit and no lights?? Whats my next thing to test or try? I also wanted to test the hopper to see if it worked with 24 credits on the credit meter, but when I pushed the payout button it called for a attendant for a hand payout. Do I have a conflict making the hopper payout because this machine also has a ticket printer?

You have the hopper limit set to 0 that is why no payout from hopper and all coins go in the overflow until you unplugged the solenoid
Set your hopper limit to a reasonable value for your denom and also set the same amount in the split pay

If the credits are below hopper limit and split pay limit it is paid from hopper on cashout.
IF the amount is over the hopper limit and split pay amount it will pay the limit from hopper and rest of it will be a ticket

Example $0.25 denomination
hopper limit $100.00 (400 quarters)
Split Pay $100.00 (400 quarters)
if you less than $100.00 showing on the vfd or 400 credits showing for credits it will pay it all from the hopper.
Now lets say you have $200 showing on the VFD which will show as 800 credits, the machine will aatempt to pay 400 quarters from the hopper and print a ticket for $100.00
 

Foster, how does the machine behave when the split pay is < the hopper limit,  and > the hopper limit?

I'm curious.

Stat :31-

When Split pay less than hopper the payout follows the the split pay amount

If I remember right you can not even adjust the split pay above hopper limit.

Thanks Foster. :3-  :259-

With the backlit reels glowing dimly I honestly don't know why they won't light on winning combinations and I'm guessing you don't have another control board to try. Haven't heard of or had this problem before. Do they mention it in the trouble shooting section of the manual at all? There sure isn't an option fot disabling them in the programming. Maybe try pulling the plugs and exersizing them for a good connection

When I was having a problem with my overflow solenoid, my hopper limit was set at 100 coins as all of my machines are and my credit limit is set at $3000. It shouldn't have been rejecting them I wouldn't think. What am I overlooking?

Ok that makes sence, but this is my first IGT S2000 or any other, how do I get to the menu to set this up?

Well thats the first thing I did tonight when I got home, I unplugged and reseated all the plugs for the reels and boards.. No I don't have a spare, but I think I can run it over to a friends home and test it on his machine... Hey Cartman765 you on tonight??

Press the white switch on the MPU after you open the main door
do not close the door until you are done with menus and it is best to exit the menu fully by using the Max Bet button
There will be LED's next to the switch. its only about 1/8" dimater.
the Change, Cash out, Sprin Reels and Max Bet player buttons will light up and become enabled.
it is under 3 options, then machine options, limits. also under machine options is the printer split pay (you have to enable it and then set its limit)
Change and Cash out move you forwards or backwards (1 accounting, 2 History, 3 options, 4 I/O tests, 5 Game Tests,  6 out of service, 7 Key chip menu)
Spin reels goes into that menu option max bet backs up one level

I will use the sound option as an easy example how to navigate the menus
Press the switch on the MPU
push the cashout button until it says 3 Options
press spin reels 1 time it will show 3.1 Machine Options
press cashout 1 time it should display 3.2 Sound Options
Press spin reels 1 time  it should display 3.2.1 Volume Control
Press spin reels 1 time it should display 3.2.1.1 Game Volume
Press spin reels 1 time it will display Volume Level # (# being  number from 0 to 10)
use the change and cashout buttons to change that setting (spin reels will reset it to the last stored setting - this is the case for most settings)

ok  I know the switch. This will bring up a menu in the outside door display I'm guessing?

Thanks Foster,  Karma  :259-   I will check that out and get back here if I have any more questions... Yea right what am I saying, I will be back with more questions...  :279-  :30-

Whether the diverter (overflow) solenoid sends coins to the drop or the hopper is not controlled by an option, but rather by contacts in the hopper.  There should be a quarter sized contact in the bottom of the hopper and a probe about an inch or so long, near the top of the bowl.  When coins short between the probe and the contact, it tells the game the hopper is full and sends the coins to the drop.  When the coin level goes down, the contact is no longer shorted by coins, and the game sends power to the diverter to send coins to the hopper.

If all coins are going to the drop, maybe the wires to the hopper contacts are shorted, or maybe the probe was set very low in the hopper (there should be several holes to mount it at different levels) and was acting as it should, but not necessarily how you wanted. 

Removing power to the solenoid will send ALL coins to the hopper, even when it is full, so be careful not to put too many coins in with it that way, or you could end up shorting things out.  :50- :50- :50-

Thanks for the info, looks like the probe is set high enough, I'll check for a short.

As Foster mentioned, it also can be controlled by a menu option.  If the hopper limit is set to 0, all coins will be diverted to the drop.  If the hopper limit isn't the issue (and the number of credits on the machine aren't at the current hopper limit), then the probe is the next thing to look at.



I like it!  :) :)

Slight technical correction :5- :96-


Quote from: AnotherTech Amachanic
If it's jammed, force it... If it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway...

Thanks Stat... :131-

How many lbs of force is "forcing it"... :103-










okay, it's official - I'm a nerd.... :97-

Please do not really make any effort to answer this dumb question.... :72-

Exactly the amount of force necessary to break it, of course! :127- :5- :200- :30-

Well things are progressing nicely with my S2000. I have the hopper limits set, as well as the split. Doing this corrected the problem I was having with the coins wanting to go down the over flow and not the hopper. I was able to reconnect the power to the diverted. So it looks like I'm down to still trying to figure out why  :103- my back lit reels won't light up during play or when a jackpots hit? They do glow when the machine is on, and I did find in the menu under the #4 I/O Test, 4.10 a Reel Lamp Test. I run this and my reel light work   :37-  but I played the game again and still nothing  :103-... What am I missing or is it in the programing of the game chip?

It's learning to tell, that just right amout of force nessessary to break something loose before you say OH SH*T... 
Exactly the amount of force necessary to break it, of course! :127- :5- :200- :30-

Stat...you're da man!  :131-
You did that "effortlessly".... :200-

Amachanic,
You can perform back lit reel lamp tests in the machine's Diagnostic Tests as well!  :89-

Ok Thanks Bunker, but that still not explaining why they don't work while playing the game, or does the Antagonist test them differently then the I/O test?

Try replacing the cabnet I/O board it controls the reel lights 

He may not have another I/O board on hand? I don't know.

lol...I typed "Diagnostic" wrong earlier...
I blame it on being near to midnight here on the east coast of USA.
That's not half as bad because I thought your name was "Arachnid" at first!  :96-

BTW I like the term "I/O" tests too! I gotta remember that...
Do the lamps come on when doing the lamp tests?

Yea they work great in test mode, but nothing in game mode, and for the other question, no I do not have an extra I/O on hand. This is my first build of and IGT, but give me time and I will...

Does your sb chip support backlighting  . Did you remove the ss chip 

Gary, I'll lend you a cabnet I/O and we'll try a different SB chip to see if it's your sb that's not supporting your back lighting problem.

The SB Chip Number I have is SB100849, I got it from Blueridge Slot with my top glass. Now if the ss chip in question was the one marked U17, shown in a pic on the first page of this post, then yes it was removed.. Remember guy this is my first build and I'm not 100% sure of names of everything yet, but I'm getting there with your help.. Jim at Blueridge thinks it could be my SG's (game chips). I need to go into the menu to get the information, but that will have to wait till later tonight since I'm off to work... Thanks again everyone

Thanks Dale, or should I say Cartman.  :96-   I'll give you a call...

Whichever

One of the boys answered my house phone one day and someone was asking: "Is Stout there?"...he hung up... :97-

 :100-  :208- :208- :208- :208-


:31-

Tell them to say "It's Stout's day off"

Oops!  I copied and pasted the wrong name.  Sorry about that -- I fixed my original post.

Well after talking with Jim at Blue Ridge and Cartman765 it sounds like this machine I picked up here has an older set of game chips, and swapping them out with a set of 363's should fix my back lit reels problem. Once I get them and try them out I will let everyone know if the reels work correctly...

Ahhh! Good news to hear Amachanic !
You MUST give us updates now and then on how it goes!  :89-

It's the "law" here on NLG...lol

Will do and maybe a video of it finished... Stay tuned, same Bat time same Bat channel...   :213-  Did I just say that, wow I'm getting old...   :279-