New Life Games Tech Forums

I am the proud new owner of a IGT "Triple Play" progressive slot machine. It was working at one time till someone hit the Mega sending the machine into lockdown until clearing. That's when the fun began. Someomne tried changing the reset switch, didn't work. Not sure how to wire the switch since there are 2 wires with larger clips than the 3 tabs on the back of the switch. All in all I think the fix is easy I'm just afraid to fry a board.
I would like to completely restore this machine to full operation, including bill changer. I just need to know where I can buy parts and manuals. Thanks.........

More pictures.....

:238-  joek4411 :88-

 :105- on buying your first machine!!  :3- :3-   Remember not to leave it alone in the dark; it will multiply.  :109-  And once you leave two of them alone together, you'll quickly end up with a room full.  :72- :72-


If the machine is still in a jackpot lockup tilt, then each time the machine is turned on with the door/lid closed, it will respin to the jackpot symbols, the speaker will sound a continuous "dit-dit dit-dit..." and both lights on the candle will blink slowly in unison. If that's the case, you only need to touch those two wires together while in jackpot mode with the door/lid CLOSED, and you'll clear it and reset the machine for play.

It's odd that your jackpot reset switch has three tabs. A standard switch should have only two.  :103-

 :211- of the switch.

Your award glass does say "progressive", but you don't have a progressive unit on the machine or a window in the award glass for a stand alone unit. It was most likely tied into a bank of machines on a single progressive, with a large overhead sign displaying the progressive amount. Without a progressive unit attached, the machine will pay out the standard award for the top prize with a max bet. For your machine, that will be 12,000 coins.

If you really want to add a progressive unit, we'll be able to help you with that down the road. For now, let's get the machine up and running.


StatFreak :31-
:nlg-  Global Moderator

P.S. I split out your posts and moved them to the S+ board.

SF :31-

The switch you have is not correct, but still may work.
If you look closely, the tabs should be marked C, NO, and NC. Common, Normally Open, and Normally Closed.
You want the wires plugged onto C and NO.
You will be able to get the correct switch from someone here, or on ebay.

If you still have a problem, we need more information.
What the lights on the tower are doing. Steady? Flashing?
What is displayed in the "Winner Payed" and "Credits" windows.

Congrat's on your first slot!!!

My "first", (see warning from Stat above), was also a slant top.
Adding a BV is fairly easy.
For some reason, few people want a slant top, (big, clunky), but for that reason, the game kits, (themes), are cheap.
I've got a couple dozen kits that I swap out often.

Lets get your machine up and running.

You've come to the right place!!!


Ed

Ok, game is locked and lights are flashing as if the game attendent is going to come up and reset the machine. The reset is not hooked up and I believe thats all I need to do is make sure it's the right reset and wired correctly, see pictures.... Thanks everyone for your help!!!!!! First picture is the new reset  that is not wired, 3 tabs switch, the 2nd photo is the old reset with 3 tabs, is it the right switch and how do I wiere it??????

No, that's not the right switch, although as Ed posted you may be able to get it to work.  (Do you have the key for it?  If not, just forget it all together.)  Someone here likely can send you the right switch (or for sure you should be able to buy one from one of the vendors here for a nominal price), but for now I'd just route the wires through the hole where the switch was, and close the lid. 

When the machine is making it's "dink dink dink dink dink dink dink" noise and the candle (light tower on top of the machine) is flashing, touch the two wires together once for just a second or so and then disconnect (un-touch) them (you may need to cram a paperclip into one of them to actually get the metal to touch).  The noise should stop, and the machine should be ready to play again.

Edited to add: Okay, I see now that perhaps you added in a new switch?  If you have a voltmeter, set it to do a continuity check, and test the metal posts from the new switch.  You want to have momentary continuity only when the keyswitch is turned, and no continuity when the switch is in its resting (idle) position.  If you're able to determine which two terminals on the switch will accomplish that, you can hook up the wires to those terminals (it won't matter which order) and then the new keyswitch should work.

Thanks for the help, will try it this week-end. Can anyone tell me where I can get a manual, service or training for this machine?

Next step, checked the switch and conected to the right terminals, turned on the machine-all that happens when the machine is on is the tree at the top flashes, No sound, reset the machine with switch and nothing, May not have the right wires but there are no other loose wires around the switch. There are 2 jacks not plugged in at the bottom but no coresponding connectors with in reach.
Can someone tell me who fixes these machines in north San Diego?
What kind of machine is this?
Where can I get a manual?
Thanks.....
I'm usally pretty good at fixing things but this is driving me crazy....

Hold on. You posted earlier that ..



If you connected the wires, it would be normal for the machine to be silenced, and depending on which SP (game) chip you have installed, it might also be completely normal for the candle lights to be flashing -- because that's the message to the casino that the door has been opened (and security compromised). If the machine is operating normally, it will go away after the door is closed and one complete game is played

Have you tried dropping a coin into the machine, or inserting a bill?

Treid reseting and dropping coins in and nothing. Tree still flashes and the display reads : Insert your card" Welcome to the Flamingo Hilton.... Made contact with both wires on the switch and still nothing.

Displays:
Winner Paid and Credits are blank and the Change button is flashing as well.

Check the flashing lights.

That's odd. The S+ doesn't HAVE a light in the change button. :103- At least, not in the uprights. There isn't even wiring for it. :103-

Follow the guide that edski posted and let us know. For giggles, try pressing the change button to see if it (and the candle) will go out.


What is displayed in coins played?
When you close the door, does the "insert coins" lamp come on? 
Do the displays or any lights change when the door is opened vs. closed?
When you power up the machine, do the reels stiffen?
If they do, do they perform their maiden spin during the boot diagnostic?

Pictures posted are of a Slant Top and it does have the wiring in place for a lamp in change/service player button

Thanks Foster. I figured someone would correct me if slant tops had the wiring. :88-
 :259-

SF :31-

Displays- Coins- "0"
Insert Coins- there is no Insert Coins
Change- Flashing
Reels stiffin- yes but only when I switch the power switch inside the machine, unplugging the machine dosn't do anythig to the reels
What is a "Boot Diagnostics" The "Self Test" button inside dosn't do anything.
The tree flashing is-
Top- slow
bottom Fast- indidcating hand pay or bottom drawer open. Both doors are closed and switches are in place.
I get 9.40 volts across the terminals on the reset switch when I turn the key.
Are there supose to be any "Unconnected plugs or wires" anywhere in this machine? There are a few but I can't find any corresponding jacks within reach of any loose wires.

I live in Oceanside, CA just in case anyone is close by. Or is there somewhere I can bring this to.

Answers and questions.

You have an IGT S+ Slant Top machine.

Yes there are some extra wires for options, but they may not be the ones you are referring too.
Some photos will help identify them.

There are several IGT Reset switches available on Ebay. Just search IGT Reset.

Cheapest was 7.99 +shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/IGT-Reset-Lock-Keys-/280700185184?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item415b08ea60 (http://cgi.ebay.com/IGT-Reset-Lock-Keys-/280700185184?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item415b08ea60)

You said you get voltage across the terminals on the reset switch when you turn the key, that is incorrect.
If you are gong to check the switch with power on, you should have zero when the switch is turned.
You should do what knagl suggested, with no wires attached to the switch.

I've duplicated part of your problem on my machine.
Nothing displayed in the Winner Payed and Credits, with 0 in Coins Played means the machine is sensing a door open.

There are 5 switches/sensors on a slant top for "Door Open".
Switches are on the Top Lid, Middle door, Bottom "Drop" door, and the Bill Validator.
There is also a "Photo Eye" on the top lid.
All of these need to be made to clear this error.

more

more

Thanks edski. :3-  That's why I asked him what was displayed in the coins in window, whether or not the "insert coins" lamp came on after the door was closed, and if he saw any display changes when the door was closed. :89-


joek4411, you won't be able to clear the jackpot tilt (if you still have one) until the door open issue is resolved.

I had also asked you if the reels did a maiden spin* upon power up, but didn't really get a response. They should perform that spin even if the machine is in a tilt or jackpot condition or if the doors remain open, so if not, then there will be more issues to resolve once you get the doors to show as closed.


<ADD> * What I mean is that, when you first power up the machine, the reels should stiffen, then the machine should take 15-30 seconds to do an internal diagnostic/firmware boot, and should finally spin the reels once and place them in the last position they were in when the machine was previously powered, or into the "home" position on the seams if a clear or game change had just been performed.

Thanks for the help!!!!! Will try to resolve the door issues and the reset. Sorry I don't mean to seem like an idiot ...
To answer your question about the reels. When I turn on the slot the reels stiffen and thats all the machine does. No noise no boot up no pass go no $200-Straight to Jail.
Thanks

OK, found the swithes at the:
Bill V
Top
Bottom drawer
No photo cell at the top
Brass connectors
Ran the wires for the reset out of the machine, turned on the machine and touched the wires and nothing. Everything else is still the same.
Thats all the switches I could find.
What next?

Couple of questions. Do you have the large lower front door installed on the machine ?? If not the main door latch prevents the door optics from seeing each other.  Take a look at  edski  pic. #IR1 (main door latch) the top center peice of that latch rotates ( I think CW ) to remove the lower door, when the lower door is put back on  this peice must rotate back to to exact postion like the picture.

There are 2 doors at the front of the slot. Small door at the bottom with a switch, and a large door above that is released from inside like PW1. I did remove the door and reinstalled it , the latch above locked the door into place. There is no switch on this door. I will look at the door again.

Well yes and no, true there is no switch on the large lower door, but if that door is not installed of not installed completely the latch to the main door will not rotate CCW and part of the main latch ( by design ) will block the main door optics. Yours may be OK I don't know for sure.  A pic of the main door latch will tell the story one way or the other.

Do you recall turning a part of the main door latch so you could pull up on a rod to release the lower door ? When you reinstalled the lower door that rod has to go down or it will hold the main latch from turning.

Yea I rotated the cam-1 to the right as per instructions whichakes the pin visible. Pulled up the pin opened to open the door and closed the door it clicked and locked into place and nothing

You must have a photo cell at the top, if not, that's the problem...

Actually, the one on the top lid is the emitter, and the one on the base is the receiver.
When the lid is closed, they have to line up to complete the signal.
If you are missing the emitter, that is why there is a "door open" error.

I think Darell, @ slots4home, has been stripping slants for parts.
He may have all you need, including a Bill Validator.



Ed

Both of the brass photo cells are there , not sure if they line up but appear to be in good order, locked into the clips, no marks indicating they are hitting somthing or one another. How do you check them?
The coin comparitor led is no on, How do I check it?
What next????? Thanks..... Joe

The coin comparator light doesn't come on unless all the doors are closed and latched, so you typically won't see the light on there.

If you have a digital camera with a LCD screen that you can use as a viewfinder, turn the camera on and aim it towards the emitter.  If the emitter is working, it will appear as a blueish-white light (which may or may not be flickering) on the screen of the camera.  Only the emitter will show that light -- the receiver will not.

When you fully close and latch all of the doors of the machine, does the red LED "0" in the coins played window turn off for a few seconds and then return?

Forgive me for interjecting, but Buzz and I tried that digital camera trick on a few machines and we couldn't see anything on the camera's LCD screen.

I know that this tip has been circulating on NLG for a long time, but I'm not sure that it works with all point & shoot camera models. Perhaps the camera's refresh rate or the quality or lack of quality of the camera's IR filter may have some bearing.

If one hasn't been able to confirm that it works with their camera on a known good optic emitter, I wouldn't be prepared to call an optic bad if nothing showed up on the camera's LCD display.

Just my 2¢.

Stat :31-

Interesting.  It must have something to do with the model of camera or shutter speed or whatnot -- I've been successful with my S+ and PE+ machines and my camera, but that's good to point out that it may not work with every camera.

Just check you camera first with your TV controller. Same IR transmitter.
With the TV controller you will only see it when you push a button on the controller.

I just checked with my Canon SD1100IS and with a Droid X.  The Canon works pretty well, although less ambient light is better. 

The droid X was almost useless for this.  I was eventually able to tell the difference, but only after unplugging the optic and plugging it back in several times in a very dark environment.  The difference is a very dim purple dot when the optic is emitting.

Since the Droid X takes better pics and is newer, I'm guessing that older digital cameras are best for this, as they have less IR filtering.  :200-

joek, Door M problems on these slant tops can be a real pain.  :58-

I usually pull up on the 3 position switch to the "closed" position.  I do this on the top box, and the bottom door, and the coin tray, if it has one. 
I usually bypass the 3 position switch on the hatch door (the one on the right.  The one on the left is just for the cabinet light), but you can just pull up on it as well. 
I pop the upper optic out of its plastic holder, let the door shut all but the last few inches and hold the upper and lower optics face to face. 
I then open the BV door, and hold that switch down with a small screwdriver. 

If the door M goes away, at least you know the wiring and optics are good.

I then shut the BV door and check again.
Then the top box door.
Then the bottom door, etc. until I find the problem.

All this assumes that the switches work in the pulled out position, which isn't always true, but usually.

If that doesn't work, I short the 3 position switches with a paper clip and do the same thing with the optics and BV door switch.

In my experience, the BV switch causes the most problems.  The metal lever on the switch can be bent to make better contact with the button on the switch.

If you haven't checked for broken or cut wires to the switches, you may want to.  I've had a few that had some snipped wires.

W

Keep in mind, this is an S+, not an S2000 -- it's not quite as obvious on them when the machine senses that the doors are closed (there's no VFD with status messages).

I don't even like going in this direction but I will.

Unplug both of your door optics.Take note that each one of those plugs have two wires and can only be plug in one way. I'm going to call one side of each plug having a sharp point.

Now you have the optics unplugged don't give them another thought they will remain unplugged. Looking at the very pretty drawing I just made, using a wire 2 or 3 feet long hook it up like the RED wire in the drawing. Take note the door ( your top one) the red wire is plugged into the nonpointed side of the plug.  Cabinet side plug into the pointed side. If you see any cherry switches ( The white ones ) that a door hasn't pushed in, pull out on the center plunger.

What we have done is we have made the machine ( optics ) think the main door is closed.( It's OK not to close the main door )  If the optics were your problem I hope you see the LED light up on the coin comparator. ( If it works ) Even if the comparator doesn't light up, drop a coin in the Comp. to see what happens.

For you non believers, this one wire bypass works on a Upright S+ and a Slant Top PE+ I can see no reason why it won't work on a 3 Reel Slant Top.

It should work Buzz but I'd like to warn anyone trying this without proper Molex connectors.
If when inserting the jumper bypass wire into the 2-pin connector
and accidentally touching the wrong pin - you'll be amazed at what burns out!  :72-
Make sure the correct pins are connected together BEFORE turning "ON" the power switch!!!!

Below are a couple of photos I just took using my old scratched up magnifying glass...
Note that the "pointed" side of Molex connectors are designated as Pin #1.
I put a little bit of black marker ink on that area on the back of the Molex connector-
to bring out the number a touch better to see.
Click on any photo to enlarge! >>>

Here's a couple photographs of the back side of the 2-Pin Molex connectors...
I find it amazing at how gripping a golf club without wearing gloves chews up the cuticles of my left thumb... :72-
I need to get a manicure... :200-


Click on the photos to really make big!!!>>>

Ill send some pictures and tell me what you think. Should there be any light emmitted from the brass sensors?

2 of the 4 switches

3 & 4  switches

switches

continued.....

Anything out of place??????

The brass sensors are the part we have been calling the door optics.     Now the ans. to your question is in this thread.

joek4411, we haven't heard back from you. Did you ever get your machine working?

Stat :31-

Sorry , got busy with work and building a trailer. Will try this week-end. Thanks for the poke!

 It's a free service we provide at no extra charge.  :72- :72-

We'll be here when you've got the free time. :88-


Stat :31-

David :31- ,

I cannot believe that you missed out on an opportunity to use a Smiley in CONTEXT! :190- Bad Stat, see below! :208-

:115-

CH :95-

I guess I'm in the pokey... or to use the Down Under gambling reference, the pokie.  :5- :30- :30-


Speaking of smileys in context, I wonder how long it will take Jason to use the new one? :128- :129- :129-