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I just picked up a IGT 3 reel slot machine double diamonds, Model Number b5033ci when i turn on the machine it lights, but nothing else, I was told a jackpot was hit then it stopped working??  coins do nothing but fall through, i tried the key on the side nothing, I see no error codes or anything on the machine, any help would be awesome.  Thanks!

I do want to add after reading posts in this forum, I see the infared light in the door sensor also the reels are stiff when machine is on and loose when its off??  Thanks for any help.

rich

With machine on, open door and try to turn reels....are they stiff or free spin?

I added to this post, the reels are stiff when machine is on and loose when it is off, check all fuses in the back they are good, used cell phone to see infared light on, on the door sensor.

Is there a "zero" in the "Coins Played" window on the display?
or some other number?
With the door open and the power switch on, wiggle the left connector
under the back of the display panel on the reel glass (if this is a long display panel)
Some display panels are located on the right-hand side of the reel glass...locate the main connector plug
for that one and wiggle it watching the display panel from the front.

Check that didnt do anything, doesnt seem to be a short there? 

Here is the window I dont see any display at all

Well thanks for the pictures, now we know we are dealing with a S machine not an S-Plus. I will leave this to the S experts....not me :60-

No...it's an older S+ machine I think...all we need to see is the top of the MPU...
I work with a few of these puppies on the game floor -they are workhorses!!!
They last forever!

please recheck the 3 fuses on the power supply box.
The top and bottom fuses need to be 8 amp while the middle fuse needs to be an 6 AMP fuse.
If I'm wrong that's okay...it should say on the orange sticker in the back.
You power supply is like Emelie's...another member here with pretty much the same problem almost.
Also...Quick blow fuses...NOT the slo-blow fuses!

Hey Bunker ...You sure it needs to be an 8 amp and not an 8 amp   :103-

whoops...lol
does anybody remember off hand? cause I don't!  :72-
I thought it was 8/6/8


or is it 6/8/6?  lolololol

8/6/8  :200-

I haven't seen an S in two years, so I CRS. Do we know that the S and an early pre-DBV S+ use the same fuses in the same order? :128-

If not, shouldn't we get a picture of the MPU board first?

Rich,
Can you snap a picture of the top of the MPU tray?
It's the big silvery box thing with the black knob on the side of it.
We want to see the wires coming out of it to determine exactly what machine you have.

Here ya go, and i think i am seeing 7.5 amp fuses?

With the top of your knees, bang the coin tray upwards...it should come off,
then pull on the handle of you coin hopper..it should slide out.
Then take a picture of the back of the cabinet on top of the power supply transformer...
there should be a big orange sticker with the fuse voltages.
Check those three fuses...IGT NEVER used 7.5 AMP fuses!!!

The top one should be 8AMP 250V
The middle one should be 6AMP 250V
the bottom one should be 8AMPS 250V

Is the 7.5 AMP fuse in the middle hole?

ok i have a 6amp 8amp and a 7.5amp I have attached a couple photos

 

Get rid of the 7.5AMP fuse and replace the middle one with a 6AMP quick blow fuse.
and put the 8AMP on the top and bottom.
I'm pretty sure your display is fried...
who knows what else because that's way too much amperage for the 6AMP location.

Did YOU ever see the display working?

Ive never seen it working...  just picked up the machine today.  What a bummer if its fried arrrgh....

It would only have been a problem if the circuits failed or were shorted and drew too many amps, in which case the larger amp fuse would not have provided sufficient protection. It they were/are operating properly, having a larger amp fuse wouldn't cause a problem.

But...we have a problem...the display doesn't work.  :97-  (jk ya)

It can't be that bad. You reported that the reels are stiff and that you see the infrared light in the door sensor (was it blinking?).


With the power off, pull out the MPU board on the left. It should have a black knob on the outside of the tray. You'll need to pull it straight up.
Take a picture of the tray and post it, and while it's out, check the battery. It should be 3.6v.

Here is what I would do.

Are the fuses good? If so, just leave them alone for now. If something is shorted, it would blow the fuse even if it was an amp or so higher than what is called for. Now if it had a 20 amp fuse in there, that would be a different story.

I would then re-seat the MPU and all plugs. Every time I got no display at all, it was because the MPU was not seated all the way.

oK HERE ARE PICS, AND YEAH THE REELS ARE STIFF WHEN THE MACHINE IS ON, i SEE A LIGHT FROM THE SENSOR (caps sorry) when i use my camera not sure if its blinking or solid though cant tell with the akward way I have to place my camera but there is defanantly a light that goes off when I unplug the cable.

MPU looks ok. Standard 10Mhz S+. Might go ahead and re-seat the game and reel chips and try it again. Make sure the MPU is seated good.

oops.  Nothing to see here. I hit the wrong button.  :5-

Okie reseated the chips and replaced board nothing has changed :(  sigh...

Next, I would pull the MPU back out and remove the motherboard (the board the MPU plugs into). Inspect the top and bottom for burnt traces. Also inspect the plug that comes from the power supply and plugs into the motherboard (the white one). They sometimes get toasty and no longer make good contact.

Especially that one, as it's a known issue. Pull it and look at the back side. See if the plastic connector looks burnt on one pin.
On the other hand, I don't think you would have stiff reels if this connector were causing a problem.

Bunker might be right about the display being bad, but what's bothering me is that the reels don't spin up once during the power on test. I was almost hoping that the SP socket would be empty.

Ok so I totally removed that board, looks great, its between plastic and what looks to be cardboard, no burnt marks, all the connectors look good i inspected each one. the previous owner told me (who knows) that a jackpot was hit and it didnt work after that??  maybe that helps

Not really. BTW, the candle is not flashing is it?

The only other thing I can think of that doesn't require locating another MPU and swapping it, is to pull the CMOS chip. That is the one next to the game and reel chip. It is the one that is battery backed up. Pulling it will make it lose it's memory (just pull it out for a couple of seconds and then plug it back in). It won't hurt anyting, but there could be some corrupt data that might be preventing the machine from booting. This is  where having a spare MPU really comes in handy.

I agree with Stat that I don't think the display is bad because you are not getting the initial reel spin. That tells me the machine is 'locking up' before it gets to that part of the program.

When you had the MPU out, did you check all of the pins on the bottom of the MPU? Spmetimes one will get bent and then the board will not seat all of the way.

the fact that the reels have voltage going to them (stiff) and the 25 cent denom. lamp is lit (1st.photo)  rules out the white connector.

with the door closed and ready to play mode, did you try and insert the flat key into the key switch on the side of the cabinet where the handle is located, turn this and see if you get any change on the displays.

next, I would remove the hopper and (with the power on) undo each fuse cap (one at a time) do not remove the cap, just do a quarter turn and it will become loose and observe what changes. one will remove power all together(flor. lamps go out), the other two, mainly you will see the 25 cent denom. lamp go out and the reels will spin freely, and sometimes you can hear static coming from the speaker. if all this works then your fuses and caps are working .

have you tried to press the white test button (located on the front of the panel halfway down) this is the front panel that holds your board in place. it has all the connectors that come from different areas of the machine.

you could undo the two screws that secure the display and make sure the display is plugged in properly, if you have a meter, you could measure that you are getting +vb across the larger cap located near the connector.

Jim 

He said he already tried that in his first post.

I'd be checking the +vb on the display caps as Jim suggested, if nothing,
then I'd be swapping out that display panel to get some info from the MPU.
At least with a working display - you can do some trouble shooting.

Unless the MPU is dead and there is nothing to display. Since the reels are not doing their inital spin, I would bet the display is fine. If his candle isn't doing anything either (waiting to hear an answer on that) it would be one more indicator of the MPU not booting

just trying to establish that the board is getting the proper voltages to operate it.  what if the bulbs are burnt out in the candle?

I see that you are in Ohio, send me the board and I can test it for you. 

Jim

I'm just trying to look at all of the symptoms and look at the probability. What are the odds that all of the bulbs are burned out AND the display is bad AND the reals don't do their maiden spin? IMO everything points to it being MPU related. Not to say there isn't more wrong, but that is where I would start.

Candle ( I assume the light on the top ) does nothing, I already checked the bulbs they seem fine, one thing to note, I had taken off the screws on the display and pulled the plug, if I reattach the plug with the machine turned on i see a brief flash (Random) of the LED's this is not a SHORT but I believe just a flash when putting voltage to the display. And again I need to ask would getting a jackpot do anything to make this happen? I am told that's the last thing the machine did. 

Jim, are you in ohio as well?  I would be willing to send you the board to test.  Also, the key does nothing. Thanks

Rich

And I have to agree, but you could put 100 known good boards in that machine, and if the power supply is not supplying the right voltages, none of them will work.

Yes I am.

Midwest Slots
Cincinnati,Ohio
1-513-984-2201

FWIW, when I have a dead MPU, the LED display will flash breifly when powering up. But of course it will not display anything after that.  So again IMO I think your display is probably good.

Getting the jackpot does not put a machine out of order - casino personnel do... :72-
That machine may have been horribly mishandled and someone with a fat pair of hands holding a set of pliers
and screwdriver's shorted out your display board.
(This of course is only one scenario...  :5-  )

Did you see if the candle's lamp has continuity with a multimeter?  :103-

The flashing of the display's LEDs doesn't really tell me anything other than the fact that
you haven't yet checked the reading of the +vb on the display circuit board.
Secondly, applying live power to a circuit board like that - is never good.  :8-
You're suppose to utilize the power button.  :89-

However, Poppo does think that it's okay and I don't mind agreeing with him.    :96-
Do you have another MPU to put into the machine to try? :128-

 

No, I don't think it's ok to plug in a board with power already applied.  :60-
I was only noting that I have seen the LEDs flash during power up when the MPU was dead.

I suppose it's possible the display is bad, but I still think there are too many other things that don't work that point to there being a problem with the MPU. If it was just the display, the reels would probably spin and maybe some button lights would come on and the candle should flash.

Also I would take whatever the previous owner said with a grain of salt. For all we know he plugged in the SP chip backwards at some point and fried it.

OHHHH  May have something here, as per your suggestion i turned the caps on the bottom one i see reels loosen as i loosen the cap, on the middle one same thing, but on the top one i saw heard nothing, if I swapped the caps i could hear a popping sound on speaker, im sure at the least one of the caps are bad.  where to find one of thoes?

UPDATE

Ok now i have a different cap in, I get a 1 on winner paid and 0 on the coins played with the yellow (Bottom) candle flashing?

Un real i actually caught the candle during FLASH hahahaha  So now what?

Can you play it now? If not, what does it do?

BTW, I thought the fuses/caps were checked early on.

Until i got the suggestion to loosen the caps and watch/listen for something to change all i knew to do was check the fuses, but no at first i could see 3100 error on the display but now nothing but flashing candle and the display i described earler.  where do I go from here I cannot play the machine quarters still fall through

Go buy some fuses...please
Get the right ones instead of messing around with the wrong stuff!!!


Here's an example...you have two bolts in your hands, you need to put a new bolt
in the hole that hold's your airplane's wings to the airplane.
One bolt is plastic and the other one is stainless steel and they're both the same size...
Do you put the plastic bolt in there to hold the wing to the fuselage?

You can...  :96-  :79-



Is it THAT difficult to use the right stuff?

the proper fuses are installed 8amp 6amp 8 amp

Look at the coin comparitor and make sure you have the same type of coin you are using. It's hard to see from your picture if that is a quarter or a token in there.

Good Good! Thanks!

Did you get a chance to pull the CMOS chip as Poppo suggested?
That may help reset the MPU if you do not have a clear chip.
Can you swap chips?
Put in a fresh known working set of SP and SS chips to see if the chips are okay.

I think he is ok now. He just the needs to get it to accept coins.

BTW, I knew the display was proably good.  :96- And I think no power is technically 'MPU related'.   :72-

You guys have overlooked the fact that a lower flashing candle and a 0 in the coins in window signifies a door open condition, which is perfectly normal.

When you close the door and latch it COMPLETELY (make sure that the latch is all the way down), does the 0 disappear?
If it does, does the "insert coins" light come on?

Also, do the reels spin once when you first turn on the machine? This would occur about 20-30 seconds after you power it up.

So if it's now working...why didn't the machine put the Jackpot symbols back onto the pay-line?
Isn't that what the machine's "Last State" was...?

Anyhow, I'd close the door and see if the "Coins Played" number changes from a "zero" to something else.
If not, then we gotta show him how to do the door optics test.

That was my point – and we should still be looking for that startup spin.

As for the last state, we don't really know. If the last owner thinks the machine "broke" after a jackpot was hit, it's very possible that HE broke it screwing around blindly with the machine out of ignorance. Who knows what the current state is?

If we end up pulling the CMOS or running a clear, we'll never know (but who cares?)

I know what the "Current State" of that machine is...it is uhh ..."broken"?  :208-

Don't worry Rich!
We're gonna get that puppy up and running soon!!!!!
We've never failed yet!

Well i have never seen the wheels spin, when it first powered on finally I was able to cycle through some sort of test, I was seeing error 3100 i believe, i cycled through the phases or whatever and now as described I only see 1 and 0  I did re-seat the chips as instructed last night, went as far as to pull the board out and the board it plugs into and reseat all of the cables, I am concerned that I cannot see the optics "flashing" although i do see a light. not sure if the key on the side of the machine should do anything but it doesnt, the paperwork inside the machine tells me i can turn that key until i see a 2 then cycle through the last x amount of plays, I dont see this either.

Rich

The JP reset key won't do those things if the machine sees the door as open.

Have you tried pressing the white test button since seeing the 0 in the display?




That might be what I'm asking above. Does pressing the white test button still cycle through a series of numbers displayed on the LEDs?

BTW, 3100 is simply an extra coin out tilt. When the machine is operating normally, it is cleared by opening and closing the door. It might have also been triggered by unplugging and plugging in the hopper. Don't worry about it for now.

with the door open look for the pseudo coin switch (sorry, a bally term but it fits) on the coin in optics. does it coin up when pushed? Play the game off if it does. close the door, the coins in display will flash off for a second and the reels will spin if the door see a closure. if not check the door optics for alignment. Don't clear the cmos ram, if the door optics are not working or you will never get the game out of the 61 code that will result.

Welcome to the site, leapyearguy!

:238-

The pseudo coin trick is good, but he's stated that he has never seen the reels spin.  He's not going to get the game to play (with real coins or with the button on the coin optics) if the game isn't booting fully and doing its "maden spin" after power-up.

I never have seen them spin.

Did you pull the CMOS? If so, you 'should' get a 61 error. If I'm not mistaken that is one of the first things the MPU checks on bootup. So if it's not getting that far, there may be other issues with the MPU.

I agree with poppo that you should try to clear the CMOS and see if you get a 61 code that can be cleared.


If that doesn't help, then I'm thinking that the next step is to determine if:

1. The MPU is bad and needs replacing AND/OR
2. The SP chip is bad and needs replacing

Swapping out components would be the fastest way to find out. Otherwise, we could end up going around in circles for another half a dozen pages.


<ADD>
That would entail ordering:

MPU board.
SP731 or an SP1271  (We have lots of threads on the merits and limitations of each, and you can also check out the FAQ)
SET026 or a SET090 (to match the chip above...  or get both. :96-)
Clear chip.

Logic: If you're going to end up in this hobby, it's a good idea to have spares anyway, even if it turns out that your board is good.

From the sounds of it, I don't think r5416 has any spare parts. While not definitive, he did get a 3100 briefly which makes me think the SP chip may be ok. It still may be corrupt, but not totally dead. But if it was corrupt, he should have maybe gotten a 62_0??
 
 
 

Was away for a day or so but back to trying to make this work, Im not sure which chip is the cmos??  nor am I sure do i power it up briefly without the chip?  I am a computer tech and not a total novice but want to make sure I go through the proper steps.  I am assuming I need to pull the motherboard and then remove the cmos chip? and re-seat it?

Ok just took board out removed cmos and restarted, now I get 61 error, I read a few articles that tell me to hold reset button 3 seconds, I do and I get a BEEP  (YAY!!!) then i get a 61-1 error the article tells me to turn reset key and release for the 61-1 but this does nothing when i restart i get back to the 61 error

Thanks for all the help BTW!!

Rich

Well, that's some good progress.

Now you're stuck in a "61 loop" -- a clear chip should resolve that.  Do you have one?

ok got a bit further i think, now I can cycle through the test, I assume the cmos was reprogrammed, because i dont have one of thoes chips your asking me about I actually only own 1 other slot machine its a skill stop from japan i think anyhow, now it goes between 41 and 43 errors??  and the relays like on the handle are clickling wildly, like when i test the coin hopper part it turns but jumps clicking randomly like there is some sort of problem with the relays?  but i guess both relays wouldnt be jumping the same im lost but feeling liike ive made alot of progress :)

Thanks for the help
Rich

P.S. I should mention I have figured out the service key was not working I have jumped it with a wire for now i need to get a new key assembly i guess.

What do you mean by "jumped it?" It is a momentary contact switch, so if you've permanently connected them, that would cause problems.

PS: It is referred to as the Jackpot (JP) reset switch/key.

It is used to:

* Assist in clearing tilts, which technically includes a jackpot lockup (it is a form of tilt).
* Enter bookkeeping mode and move through the main menus. (Buttons are used for sub-menus.)
* To move through settings in the Setup sub-menu off of the main test menu (which is accessed by pushing the white test button.)
* To select which value is being set in some settings (such as, which digit is selected, or which reel is selected, etc.)

Well I examined the key assembly and it was made to make contact with the 2 wires and when you turn the key it breaks contact, so removing the wire and connecting it again is the same as turning the key, actually once i figured out the JP key was not working right I started to actually get somewhere with the machine, of course i could be wrong in my diagnosis as well, I am no pro at this :)  what would be causing the clicking?  like there is a relay that allows the handle to be pulled it just clicks real fast not actually opening same for the coin hopper relay it clicks and turns the disk, like studdering.

Your logic is backwards for the JP reset key.  As StatFreak posted, the keyswitch should be normally open, and only close (or create a circuit) when you turn the reset key.  In other words, without a keyswitch, the two wires that normally lead to the keyswitch should be broken, and you would connect them momentarily to simulate turning the key.

As far as stuff clicking -- nothing *should* be clicking repeatedly, but there is a solenoid that permits the handle to be pulled, and it does make a clicking sound when it is activated.

Yeah, before worrying about the clicking, you need to make sure you have the reset key issue straightned out.

What is a little concerning is the 41 & 43 reel tilts (if they are valid and not just a byproduct of the reset key 'jumper' thing).

I agree about the 41 to 43 reel tilts...if those codes keep reappearing, it's a sign of a bad MPU board.
There's a pack of 5 resistors on the bottom right corner of the MPU
in the R1,R2,R3,R4,R5 IC locations (R1,R2,R3,R7, and R9 locations for a 16MHz MPU board).
Those resistors "hold" the reels in the "stiff" position when the game is idle.

If you have a 3 reel game kit installed, and you're NOT getting a [42] reel error code-
you might get by removing the R4 & R5 resistors and swapping them with the R1 & R3 locations.
R4 & R5 resistors are for 4 & 5 reel game kits - rare games actually.

The CMOS on a 10MHz MPU board is clearly marked at location U51 (U56 for a 16MHz MPU board).

The outstanding differences between 10MHz & 16MHz are that the 10MHz board
has a blue potentiometer knob on top of the board that controls the volume.
You can see 10 or 16 MHz imprinted on the radio crystals too.
Also, a 10MHz MPU has 2 crystals while a 16MHz MPU has 3 crystals...

I really think you should pick up a spare MPU and a Clear chip to do further testing.
You may or may not be stuck in the [61-1] loop and the only way out is to
clear the MPU CMOS and the motherboard's 8-pin 24C04 eeprom.

Ok, where would I pick these items up??  Also my board has the volume knob, I have contacted my locksmith to replace the JP key this should be done in the next day or so, your response is difficult to understand, Im not quite sure of my next steps, getting a spare mpu and clear chip sounds like what your suggesting I do, is that all i will need in order to troubleshoot further?

A locksmith?  :103- Heck, I would have sent you a JP reset switch and key for free.

As for troubleshooting, the first thing that needs to be done is get that switch working or at least jumper it at the right times. Normally open and closed ONLY when needed. That is important, as the reset key does several things depending on what you are doing with the machine. So we don't know if your machine is broken or just wigging out because the switch is the wrong way.

The reel tilt errors may be real (no pun intended) or bogus because of the reset key thing. Make sure the reels and all plugs are seated firmly. Make sure the reels can spin freely without power. You will get a tilt if they can't. You will also get a tilt if you try turning them while power is on.

There are 5 reel drivers on the MPU. Normally only 3 are used. So you sort of have 2 spares. In a pinch, you could swap the good ones with the bad ones. but that requires halfway decent soldering skills.

So, once you get the reset switch working, then we can start troubleshooting properly. Keep in mind that reset key is supposed to be spring loaded to return to the normally open position.

You may indeed need a clear chip (and should have one anyway) but we don't know for sure if you need one now until the reset switch is fixed. Any of the vendors here can fix you up with whatever you need. As noted above, you should probably get a spare MPU too. They are not that expensive and make troubleshooting a LOT easier.

If you want to try working on it some more now, remove the reset swich from the side of the machine and feed the wires out the hole. Leave them seperated. Next close the machine up and make sure the door is latched (very importenat for the door optics). Power it up and tell us what happens. You can look at the following link to see how to clear each error. Short the reset switch wires momentarily only when told to turn the reset key.

Note: Just to be clear, when we say reset switch or jackpot key, we are talking about the same thing - the key switch on the outside. When we talk about self test button, that is the little white button on the inside of the machine and it should be near your power switch. There is one more little white switch on the coin optics (on the door) that we may refer to later.

http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/ (http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/)

 :212-

Or at least buy one from one of our vendors. Why? Not only are they inexpensive, but every modern slot machine from every manufacturer uses the same lock and key. It would be a good idea to keep it "stock," and you'll be using the same key for every other slot machine you end up buying in the future. :96-

A locksmith is going to charge you a fortune and won't know squat about slot machines, or the right lock and key to use.

I'm going to back up just a bit to this:


When you turned the reset key to clear the 61_1 was the door closed and latched? It needs to be or the error will not clear. Keep in mind you still may have bad door optics which would make it look like the reset switch is not working.  Did you verify the reset switch was actually bad with a meter? I just want to make sure you aren't replacing something that's not broken.

I don't think that you have a bad switch, nor do I think you have a bad CPU board. I do think you will have to get a clear chip or try and redo the cmos clear method. then when you get to the 61-1  do as poppo stated with reference to the door.   I do know that if you do the reset as you did, the 61 will not clear and you will be in the loop until you clear it.

I have a S+ with a SP731. I turned the game on, turned the reset key switch, this put me in the book keeping mode, while holding the key switch I was able to go through the 12 book keeping menus and get back to the game play mode. ( after you cycle through the book keeping mode it returns you to the game play mode)  once in the game play mode I was able to continue playing the game while still holding the reset key. ( to simulate your alleged condition)  when I released the key switch. I got a 21 error code.

I also tried this with the door open, again I held the keyswitch closed, pressed the white test button and was able to get into the test mode and preform all the tests normally.
So I don't think that the switch is your problem.

Jim

ok i will buy one from a vendor here, rather than pay a locksmith no problem, I will do that today.  I hung the wires outside the machine closed the door, plug it in, got a 43 error, opened the machine hit the white reset button, machine relays start clicking, shut the door, push the spin button the reels spin, i then can reset the machine by shorting the jp wires, when i spin again it seems to be going back and forth 41 and 43 errors with the bottom light on candle flashing throughout.  this is where i am at with the machine.

 

Wow, so I reset the cmos again, closed door got 61 error pressed button 3 seconds got 65-1 shut door shorted JP the reels actually were spinning seems randomly? i assume maiden spin??  now 43 error.

43 code (reel 3 tilt) close the door to reset.  65-1, bad cmos, hold the white test button and power the machine on and off with the button held. You'll probably get a 61 code again. The cmos chip is the small eeprom on the mother board called the E squared. It holds the game info such as program options and meters. The cmos compares what it knows with the ram chip on the cpu board and if they don't match you get a 61 code.

Why are you pressing anything at this point? Clearing a 43 error just requires opening and closing the door. Follow the directions on the link earlier to the letter. Any deviation will result in unexpected results.

But if you keep getting a  41 & 43 tilts (reel #1 and reel #3), with power off, temporarily swap reel #2 with reel #1 (or reel #3) and see if the tilt changes from 41 or 43 to 42. If it does, it's your reels, if it doesn't, it is either your MPU or cables. Make sure all cables are seated both at the reels and down by the MPU.

<edit> Here is the link again. Clear each error one at a time by doing exactly what it says.

http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/ (http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/)

Remember: DON'T pull out or plug in the reel harnesses with power on. TURN THE MACHINE OFF.

Failing to turn off the machine might fry your MPU board.