New Life Games Tech Forums

I just bought a IGT PE+ video poker machine, i fell head over heals and i see why everyone on here talks about how addictive they are. Mine is not even fixed yet and i want another :) so i bought it for $150 it lights up..... that's about it  :25- when i brought it home a wavy screen would pop up and say "call attendant" some other error message that i could not read. But my husband pulled it apart to "fix" it and broke one of the leg's of the chip on the control board (in slot c16) so now i have screen that lights up, says nothing and just frustrates me lol.
List of problems:
1. Wavy screen. i think i need a monitor cap kit, i have no idea what that is or how to use it i just know where to buy it
2.call attendant??
3.cards burnt into screen

So anyway..... any words of wisdom would be great... Links to eBay for what to buy... anything i would be very grateful!

Thanks
Mouse

One of the vendors here could probably help you with the broken chip.  Clearer pics of the board and chip will help with that.  You might even be able to repair the chip, depending on where the leg broke.  :89-

The monitor cap kit will probably fix the wavey problem, but it requires soldering to install.  If you or someone you know can solder, it's not too hard, but you will still have the cards burnt into screen.  There's really no way to fix burn in other than replacing the CRT.  Burn in is VERY common on the old video poker machines and often isn't too noticeable while playing.

The call attendant could be several things and may just need to be cleared.

If you have a damaged chip on your board there might be other components damaged as well, cracked traces etc.

My advice would be to hit Ebay and pick up a PE+ Superboard MPU (same as what you have). The cost will be between 20 and 50 and will likely have a game of some sort on it.
This should get your machine working quickly.

Next I would contact Lemans Slot sales who sells game kits for the PE+ (she might have the boards too) - see the banner add on the NLG home page. If it links you to her ebay adds her phone number is in the add. Call her. She has the stuff.
I would then buy a game kit which could be just the chips or chips + glass (your choice).

You can then swap the chips with the damaged ones on your original board.

Worst case is that you would use the chips with your new board.

Have fun

Jay  This is only a guess, but we both know a eprom would not be in a socket with a name starting with the letter "C" my experience is a eprom is always in a "U" socket

Dawn said C 16 and I kind of think she meant C 18 which is right next to U 43 the CAP PROM. In her fuzzy picture it doesn't look like U 43 has a label so we need to figure out which CAP PROM she needs for White HOT Aces.  Like I said this is all guess work right now.

Dawn can you please tell us for sure which chip lost a leg, and if the leg broke off at the very top or half way down. And exactly which chip are we talking about.

Thanks for the interest guys! ok here are some more pictures, Buzz you where right i meant C18 not C16.  The numbers i put in yellow are the numbers on the chip. The other pictures are some weird red stuff on a few of the chips. It is close to the battery so it might be damage from a bad batt. and lastly i have a close up on one of the chips legs. That's the program chip, It looks corroded

Jay, I have looked up getting the whole board like you are saying but they either cost $70+ or i am unclear on if its the right board i need.
"I would then buy a game kit which could be just the chips or chips + glass (your choice)" You mean like change the whole game inside to something new? well with the cards burned in i kind of have to stick with cards of some kind lol

Another Tech, I can solder but i lost the little leg. If i could find the right part i would just like to repace it. Your right about the burnt in image, I shouldn't be so picky :)

More posts with more pictures... if i can

more

Last one. Just to be clear the circle on the one chip is the leg that broke off

Some of these pictures of your board makes me think it's been underwater. The Red stuff you see I think is just tape.

If you want to try and get this board working first the eprom needs repaired. You can make a new leg out of some strands of copper wire. Just solder the wire to the upper part of the broken leg, then fill the entire copper strand with solder, cut it off to the proper length and install. Or PM me your address and I'll send you a donor eprom that you can get another leg from.
( I live on the West Coast and it will take the mail a few days ) Or see if a local TV shop might have a old eprom you can use for a donor chip.

I don't think you can put any kind of game into a PE/PE+ unless it's some kind of card game, maybe Keno I'm not sure.

You really think it was under water?? weird. We are in Florida where the humidity is pretty high, think that could cause what you think is water damage? When you say EMPROM you mean what i call a chip right, like the whole chip in C18. When you say donor you just mean a generic chip we can steal a leg off? (sorry I'm not down with the lingo lol)

Also i read alot about a clear chip.. I get that it clears all error msgs ( i assume like taking your car to get the "check engine: light turned off) so i assume i need it. Where should i get it from, there are a million places on eBay and also where do i put it?

The C18 is meant for the cap. above the chip.
The chip that is broken is the U43 .

I don't know if it's been underwater or not, does the word Katrina mean anything to you. I know the last two pictures you posted that board looks nasty. Maybe what I'm seeing is just that old red tape. When He's not around, take your Husbands toothbrush and see if you can clear away some of that junk around U 74.

A clear chip is a lot like a fire extinguisher, it's something you need around but hope you never have to use it. True some of our members think a clear will fix everything from a flat tire on their car to lowering their blood pressure. Most times it doesn't help and they then post here what did I do wrong! I've seen no indication yet that you need a clear. "Call Attendant" is a very commen error and so far that is the only thing keeping your machine from working. ( I'm sure there will be other issues )

We need the picture back and repairing the broken leg must be addressed before we can go forward. ( Your Husband isn't the first to break a leg on a eprom / chip.)

As : AnotherTech stated the burn in is what it is, only way to get rid of it is replace the picture tube. I'm not sure if a brand new one is available in the 13" size. Ceronix doesn't have any. Or you can change to a LCD monitor for about $400, lot of money but damn they look good.

There is a seller on EBay that is selling new in box
 13" Ceronix tubes with neck coils for $295 + shipping.

Paul  Would you pay $295 + for a CRT tube before you paid $400 for a complete LCD ??   I wouldn't !!!!!

I'd go buy a $20 board 1st.... :200-

I didn't say I would buy the tube.
I just pointed out that they are available and the price.
The LCD is the better way to go but some people
prefer to restore back to original specs.

You just missed one for $30 that sold a couple of days ago:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220826479793 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220826479793)

The only one I see on eBay right now is $75, and that's too much.  I'd try posting a WTB ("Want To Buy") ad in the classifieds section (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=5.0) of our site to see if a vendor here can get you a new board at a reasonable price.  I agree with Buzz -- it looks like that board has been underwater, or in a very VERY humid environment where rust was able to form.  A new board isn't a bad plan here.  How does the inside of your machine, especially the inside bottom look?  Any signs of water damage?

You won't need a clear chip for your PE+ -- I wouldn't waste money on it.  You will eventually need a SET chip to enable the bill validator, but we can cross that bridge later.

I'm sure you've already beaten him up for it, but why on earth was your husband removing that chip to try and "fix" the machine?  That chip isn't even one that you'd ever need to remove from the board.  To save yourself some headaches and $$ in the future, please post here first if you're having trouble with your machine and our experienced members will be happy to help point you in the right direction.

But wouldn't it be a good idea to just add it to the MPU order and avoid the rush? :103-  

If it's from the same vendor, sure.  If not, I don't personally see a pressing need -- even after the MPU board is replaced, there's still what sounds like a significant monitor issue to be resolved.

I don't think it's ever been confermed that it has a bill validator, comparator, hopper,

Dawn  How about a picture with the door open, the inside of the door, and a pic. of the inside of the machine .  please

It does have a hopper, bill validator and i dont know what a comparitor is. The inside doesn't look water damaged to me, But i might not be looking for the right thing. I am tempted to just change the whole superboard or control board (whatever its called) like someone had suggested (sorry i forget who). sigh.. I dont know what to do now. I would love an LCD but so far we have a $150 dust collector so its hard to justify that kind of money on something that doesn't work atm lol. So guys what should i do? do i buy a whole new board.. do i just fix it one piece at a time(aka fix the broken leg, then new program chip, then a cap kits) I will take a picture of the inside tonight.

My husband is a computer tech so he just wanted to pull it apart.. your men, you should understand that lol

Thanks again guys :)

Just tell him to keep his fat fingers out unless he's willing to come here and ask directions. :200- :30- :208- :208-


Stat :31-

---

<ADD>  Coin Comparitor (Deliberately misspelled as it is a trademarked brand name – as opposed to the word comparator.) It's the top part of the coin acceptor assembly. It holds the sample coin and compares the inserted coin's metal content (magnetic signature, actually) with the signature of the sample coin and rejects those that don't match.

Coins that are "accepted" then pass through the coin optic board. This board doesn't discriminate and sends a signal to the computer that a credit has been accepted. Although it doesn't discriminate as to content, it does check size to a certain degree and mostly prevents a player from "stringing" the coin (trying to pull it back out after registering a credit.) It typically has three optics and they have to be occluded and un-occluded in a certain order and time frame for the credit to be registered. If not, the machine tilts and displays an error code.

Yes.  Start there, let's at least get the machine working, then you can worry about the monitor and whatnot.


In your post, state that you are looking for an IGT PE+ superboard in an upright tray with a poker game chipset.

Can you guys hook me up with an eBay link of one that will fit right. I'm really worried I will pick the wrong one and loose $75 or whatever it costs. I relieved my husband of the fixing the slot machine duty. So his "fat fingers" wont be anywhere near her. lol

Post the WTB as knagl worded it HERE (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=5.0) on our classified board. Forget FleaSpray.


Stat :31-

the one on eBay has a make offer on the listing.
Make them a offer, all that can be said is "NO"
to your price.

I'm in favor of repairing the broken leg on the cap prom ( U 43 ) and try to clear the "Call Attendant" error before ordering a new MPU board !!!!!!!!!!!  This old board looks like crap but we don't know for sure it's BAD.

http://cgi.ebay.com/IGT-PE-PLUS-POKER-SLOT-MPU-CPU-BOARDS-PROGRAMS-/130529820160?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e642efe00 (http://cgi.ebay.com/IGT-PE-PLUS-POKER-SLOT-MPU-CPU-BOARDS-PROGRAMS-/130529820160?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e642efe00)

I would be hard pressed to give $75 for a PE+ MPU unless I knew for sure I had to have it !!

The guy selling that just so happens to be from my town so i am msging him to see what i can work out. To be honest i would much rather just buy the whole MPU board then mess around with all the chips. I am not so naive to think this will fix everything but I am hopeful it will get me there faster. I will keep you guys updated on what he says. Also i will need to get a monitor cap kit, might as well get it all at once. I msgs a guy on here about it, but he didn't reply so what one should i get? whats an avg price?

http://randyfromm.com/amusements/yellowpages/zanen/ (http://randyfromm.com/amusements/yellowpages/zanen/)         Try these people  $6.95 + shipping

What size and stuff do i need?

Pull the monitor out and look on the chassis.  I'm pretty sure it's a model 1492.  Zanen's have a toll free number, give them a call and tell them what you have.  I think you have a 13' tube but I'm not sure.  Maybe someone can tell us for sure !!  :99- :99-

Lets start at the beginning.

There are two types of boards for a PE+

The regular board and a Superboard.

All of the regular games work in the superboard but not the other way around.

The game will consist of a Game Chip, Program Chip if it is a basic game, but will also include a data chip if it is a superboard only game.
The next chip is called a Caprom - this is a small (and ancient) chip that controls the graphics. If you have the wrong one the cards and such show up in the wrong colors.
They will have a label on them like 740 if it is a standard game and a X740 if it is for a supergame. THe X denotes a superboard Caprom Chip.
There are then 4 other graphics chips with names like MX0 MXG etc.

The primary advantage of the Superboard is that there is a couple of Multi-game chip sets that give you 5 games with an upfront menu. THese can't be run on the older boards.
You can also occasionally find one of the rare "daughter boards" that clip onto the super board and you can then use ANY 5 games that use the same Caprom.

If you switch from white hot aces to most any other card game the cards all line up well. I wouldn't sweat the burn in right now.

You could buy Joker Poker or Bonus poker and they would do just fine.
Here is a link to the IGT game bible where we have a listing of the avalabe games.
You can also go to Ricks Faq Files (button on the middle of the page) followed by choosing the IGT Game bible link.
http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%20Poker/Game%20Library%20-%20PE-Plus.htm (http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%20Poker/Game%20Library%20-%20PE-Plus.htm)

I will again suggest to contact Leemans1960 (April) and a link to her number / auctions are on the page.
SHe has lots of kits available not just what she has listed on ebay and may have boards available also.
Many of the other dealers may have kits available too - check out their links.
If you mention NLG they are often very generous with their prices.

You do not normally need to change your glass as the pay table is displayed on the screen but as you will see from the game bible some glass is more attractive than others.

The red is left over "gaming" tape residue. This is tape that is specifically made to leave evidence of tampering.
If you have ever used "tuck" tape for sealing plastic sheets over insulation it leaves the same residue.
If just doesn't say "Gaming Control" on the outside..... lol.

Your board is speculatively fine but as you bought a machine that isn't currently live I personally would be taking the fast track to get the machine up and then worry about trouble shooting the other one once you know that all of the other bits are working.
There is never any harm in having spare parts around. Personally I have 5 boards for mine, extra switches, lamps etc.

Your going to have a blast with your new toy,

Wow Thanks Jay i learned alot from that post :D I will contact Leemans1960 and ask her a few questions and i Believe you are right, the fast track is always the best. I want that baby running! lol Thanks again for that post must have taken you a while to type out lol Great Information.

Good news. I got the CPU board for $50, I low balled him and he accepted! mind you its $10 shipping but still down from $75, I thought that was pretty nice of him  :131- I am happy!   :20-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130529820160?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/130529820160?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)

Good deal.  Let us know how it goes when you put it in!

(Make sure that you always have the power OFF when you insert or remove the MPU board, or you'll let the magic smoke out  :98-)

Thanks for that's little reminder, To be honest i had not even thought about that. I asked my husband and he told me that he had already done that.  :25-   :30-   hahaha but now we know! Thank you

Until you have enough experience to know what can be done with the power on, I recommend turning off the power anytime you're going to connect or disconnect something, even a light bulb. It's always better to be safe than sorry.

It's usually okay to pull and replace the hopper with the power on, as long as it's not engaged, but even that can generate a tilt code.

Tilt Code??? i hope thats not what it sounds like because when we brough it home we laid it on its back :S

;D

That's cute.  No, save for any monitor damage that could happen from transporting the machine, there's nothing wrong with tilting a machine on to its back to transport it.

The term "tilt code" refers to an error code or message on the machine, which could range from a software error to an empty hopper or some other mechanical or electronic failure.  The term "tilt" is primarily a pinball term (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinball#Nudging) and there refers to physically moving the machine too much.  A "tilt" on a slot machine is an error code which can be caused by many things, but not by moving the machine from one location to another.  :71-

Eh, before someone jumps on me for saying that, of course some damage could occur during transport and then a tilt (error) code would result from that, but to be completely clear, there are not any sensors inside the machine that detect if a machine has been put on its side or back like a pinball machine has.  (...and a pinball machine can be moved, too -- a tilt (shaking the machine too much) generally just disqualifies the ball in play during a game.)

 :-[ :182- oh lol Well im glad i dont have to worry about that. So im getting that new board i hope next week. is there any other parts i should order?

Lord I am as mad as a wet hen. My CPU board was sappose to be here today, I msg's the guy (off eBay) if there was a shipping number because he had not marked it as shipped yet. I look up the number he gives me and its not in the usps system yet. and i go back to ebay and now he has it marked as shipped. if he just shipped it now im going to be SOOO mad!
Negative review here i come!

Sorry for the ranting i just wish i could go into a store and buy the part!

That's what gets me PISSED OFF. If it's something you're not in a hurry for it comes quick,
if you need it they piss around shipping it.

hahahaha true that! I have an ebay company and i ALWAYS ship within 2days. We just went on a trip to Lousiana and i took some packages with me waiting on payment. lol

We get the new part... its like Christmas!! i was so excited!!! so i get it all rigged up and I'm so happy... and it does nothing... like NOTHING the light on top doesn't flash the screen just lights up but is still black :( what a let down. the cpu i ordered looks great. Please help, I'm so discouraged   :(

I used the reset key and held it, pressed what i think is the test button or whatever and open and closed the door a bunch.. nothing. doesn't do a thing... sigh :(

Hey everyone,
      Sorry to bother everyone AGAIN but i ordered a new CPU board for my IGT PE video poker machine. Installed it and The screen lights up but it stays black with no sounds. I tried the restart key. the test button (or whatever its called lol) and the open and close door trick... nothing at all  :103-

It seems pretty easy to change the CPU board so i dont think i screwed that up  :30- Anyway. can someone please help me I am so frustrated   :37- :8- :37-

 :99-

Hi Mouse,

If you put your old board back it, you get the any data, wavy lines on the screen, sounds, etc?  Or is it blank with no sounds as well?  Did this new board come with chips or did you transfer chips from your old board to this new board?  Check that the chips are seated correctly.  Sorry you're having trouble...we'll get you fixed.

Jason

Thank You! :D
   The old board had no sound and black screen. also it looked in rough shape. some of the guys on here said it looked like it was under water :S lol The new board came with all the chips in it and they all look correct. I don't even know where to start.

I have a Game King and am not as familiar with the guts of a PE, although I would assume it's similar.  My next thought would be something possibly with the mother board that your MPU plugs into.  I used to have an old CEI poker machine that went up in smoke due to my own fault, but the guys out here helped me get it fixed.  My problem was board level problem that ended up needing some resistors replaced, but since you've swapped MPU's, no need to pursue that.  Did you check all of the boards and monitor fuses as well to make sure nothing has blown?  I would also check all of your wire plugs and pin connectors to make sure there isn't any corrosion, bent pins, etc.

With the MPU out, you might snap some interior photos of the inside of the machine so that we can take a closer look.

Thanks,
Jason

Mouse, forget my pm. I thought you had swapped the old chips into the new board.


Stat :31-

This is indeed strange behavior........

I was not too concerned about your old board other than it had a chip with a broken pin, which may suggest other damage on the board is possible.
I have broken chip legs before (its a newbe thing to do) but whenever I have done this I have either replaced or repaired the chip.
So we wanted to put that board to the side and deal with it later.

One thing to try is to take your new board and use an eraser (the white ones work best) on the card edge that will slide into your machine.
Casino smoke and such can cause build up and given that these machines are now 20+ years old mild tarnishing can cause contact problems.

I have taken some old slant top trays whos wings prohibit proper insertion into the upright PE+ and ground off the extended wings and have found that on occassion these hacked trays have caused me minor insertion problems and the behavior is just like you described. When I open the door and exercise some muscle on my insertion the problem goes away and contact is made. I am not suggesting you have such a modified tray but the sympthoms are similar.

Here is a simple test - take the MPU board out, close the door and turn on the machine ??? is the behavior the same ---- if so I would say proper contact or something similar is the cause here.

On a normal board tray.... it still has has wings, perhaps bend them back slightly to make sure the board is inserting well.
Here is a stick diagram of what I mean
        
       [knob]
  -----------------------   <----- over hanging wings
     |            |
     |_______|
      
       [knob]
  \-------------------/
     |            |
     |_______|

Of course you don't want to be this dramatic of a bend but its the best I can do with ascii character diagrams.  :89-

The other thing to look at is the tray that the board is in. Does it have a transformer in it the same as your last tray ? and is it connected ??

 Did you check all of the boards and monitor fuses as well to make sure nothing has blown?
-what and where is that?   :25-

 I would also check all of your wire plugs and pin connectors to make sure there isn't any corrosion, bent pins, etc
-Last time my husband did that he broke one of the legs that got us into this boat in the first place lol


Jay i think you are on to something. We did notice that when we took the whole tray out and turn it on it will act the same. Your talking a little over my head with that knobs and erasing something. lol what do you mean by wings?

Also when we had the old CPU in the lights on the top would flash but now nothing.

Sorry to seem so blonde  :103-

My CEI machine had 2 or 3 fuses on the motherboard and 1 on the monitor PCB...sounds like this might not.

Jason

The metal tray in which the board is mounted in has a black knob (its usually black). You would usually use the knob to lift or pull the tray from the machine.

The width of the tray is wider than the slot in which it slides into. The metal over hang that stops the board from sliding in further is what I am referring to as wings.

For whatever reason that extra 1/16th of an inch which is garnered by hand bending the tray just slightly makes it fit in all that much better (and work).

There are also two different versions of the upright PE+, the one I have the board slides in horizontally at the top (above the monitor) . On others it slides in vertically on the side by the coin hopper.

Jay brings up a good point.  Is the silver metal tray from the eBay one the same size and shape as the tray from the original board?  If not, you can remove your original board from its tray, and put the eBay board into the old tray.

the tray is the same, to the T

Also jay i forgot to mention that when we first got it, it worked... or well it said low battery and call attendant. If it was the tray being to big by a little could it just randomly change like that?

If the tray doesn't fit right the MPU board doesnt get plugged into the motherboard and you get a black screen.

Plug the board in and give it a slight fist bump to make sure its seated well and/or bend back the tray wings slighty by hand.

If it was working you will still get the low battery warning and you will need to replace the solderd on lithuium battery on the MPU board.

Maybe I'm getting lost.  So your old board in the machine was displaying battery low/call attendant and looked fine on the screen?  And then an EPROM was removed and the leg broke off.  Instead of repairing/replacing the EPROM, the suggestion was to buy a replacement board, and now the replacement board and chips that came on that board are producing the current problem.  Is that right?

Sure hope the original problem wasn't just a matter of replacing a battery.  Apologies if the rundown isn't correct... I'm a bit late coming in.

Jason

Makes no difference if the MPU is installed or not, with the power on pass your hand over the picture tube ( Monitor ) you will /should feel a whole lot of static electricity If you don't best guess is you don't have the monitor fully plugged in. I'm assuming you pulled it out to get the part number for the cap kit.  Did you install the new cap kit ??

Have you checked the battery on the new board ? Have you looked at all the eproms on the new board to make sure they are installed in the right direction with no bent or broken pins ??

Maybe taking a step backwards, but I can see no reason why you can't install the cap prom from the new board to the old board and see if you get the "call attendant" error. If you did this at least you would know if something is wrong with the new board.  

 The old CPU "worked" when we first got it but couldn't understand what was on the screen. so my husband was tinkering with it and broke a leg off on one of the chips (and the screen was black like it is now and just the lights on the top are on). After showing the CPU board on the form here. everyone pointed out the problems and how alot of the chips looked corroded. So i just ordered a new board and it does look alot better. So i installed the new CPU in the metal tray.. slid it in... and nothing to lights on top, just a light up black screen.
Jay I'm almost 100% sure it fits right, but your Right it might be the battery. I didn't replace it because when i bought it they said it was taken from a working machine.

I didn't get a cap kit because we are just confused all to hell as is. We didn't mess around with the monitor at all.

Okay, how about this.  Ground yourself first (touch some metal that is grounded to to remove any static shock you may have built up), then GENTLY remove the chip from the eBay board that your husband broke from the original board (using a thin flat-head screwdriver, gently pry up on each end between the socket and the chip, a little bit at a time on each side until the chip pops out).  Important: note the direction of the chip (there's small notch at one end to demonstrate direction), and be sure to insert it in the same direction in the old board (you'll see there's a matching notch on the socket to help).  Make sure all of the legs are lined up before you gently and evenly push the chip into the socket, then (with the power OFF), insert the board and then try to power it on and see what happens.

My suspicion is that you did not plug the transfomer (large square thing) into the MPU board when you installed it.

I don't think she swapped boards between the trays -- I think she tried the eBay board as received and it didn't work.  Granted, we don't know if there are other issues, but it's possible she got a dud board.

Do we know if the new board even has all of the chips?  Perhaps a photo of the new board is in order.

Jason

This lead me to the conclusion that the new board was mounted in the old tray.

Aah, I see what you're saying, Jay. I guess we'll find out soon! :)

hello. Yes i mounted the new CPU board to the old metal tray... isn't that what i was sappose to do?

I did plug the wire in from the black box thing that stays on the metal tray

attached is a pic of the new board

Thank you again

How come everyone is assuming she has more than one tray ??  Look at the ebay picture and tell me what you see.

Buzz is correct, as usual.

Mouse: Care to try this and report your results?

Ok i will give it a try and keep you posted. to be honest I'm just a little nervous i will break it   :25-

AAAHHHHH OMG IT WORKED!!! one of the many problems fixed!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So i switched the chip and get everything put together turned the reset key and poof it worked. i got to see cards. wow i was excited!
So i ran and got a few quarters, but they would just stick in the top not sliding down so my husband starting plucking away and it and... that did nothing so i donno whats wrong with that. but well he was doing that the screen for worse and worse.
Now i am not sure if it was from him messing with the wires or just the screen warming up. By the time we stopped messing around with it had a black screen again that said "call attendant, low battery" so.. now what do we do? lol

Pic #1 is the screen i started with
Pic #2 the coin collector box? my husband messed with
more pix to follow..

pic #3 the inside of the collector box my husband was messing with
pic #4 the last screen with cards all messed up

 :103-

Awesome Mouse!  Now we're heading in the right direction.  I think a battery change is one of the first things that should be done.  I'm thinking also that the monitor may be having issues.  At any rate, progress is progress right?

Jason

Looks like you need to stick a coin in your coin comparator.  Slide that spring loaded circle to the right and slip a quarter in there.  It will spring back to the left.  Once that is done, drop a quarter in the machine and see what happens.

Jason

Yes i agree! very happy!!!!
Do you think i should try with the battery i got from the eBay board or just go and buy a whole new one? I think u can buy them at like radio shack's and places like that right? Also u have to solder them on it looks like eh?

I have known from the start that i need a new cap kit.. whatever the hell that is... or where ever i get that and how ever i change that lol  :208-

Jason (you sent a msg well i was typing this one out lol) we kept slidding it over and it would just fall out. are you saying you want me to get one kinna stuck half way then put another in?   :103-

Here is a video if you need help:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8qEKXjT3lg&feature=youtube_gdata_player (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8qEKXjT3lg&feature=youtube_gdata_player)

Jason

omg i get it!! Thank you so much!~ im running to try that now! brb lol

:)

Jason

ok so i got the coin in there and it looks great (Thank you for the video :D) but the screen still says  call attendant and low batt on a black screen so my coins just dropped down.

I also tried the test button a bunch and the reset key.

For what it's worth, you can also make adjustments to the comparitor.  Look at the picture that I included.  The orange circled area shows the adjustment which can affect a coin dropping into the tray or getting registered correctly.  Take a small screw driver and turn the dial all the way to the left.  Mine full left and will register coins correctly.  Play with the adjustment a bit.  If it is turned too far to the right, the coins will fall through.  With the quarter properly inserted into the comparitor, you should also see the little bulb lit up on the comparitor.

The battery is going to need to be changed for sure.  We haven't even dug into your software settings yet.  Depending on the state of the memory, we won't know what your settings are, if there is memory corruption, etc.  We'll cross that bridge once we get to it.  I have the PE games emulated in MAME and can access the same menus, but I think the battery would be a good next step in the process.

Thanks,

Jason

Also, turn the machine's power off and back on and see if it goes immediately to the black screen with the battery message again.  If it does, there probably isn't much else to mess with until that battery is changed.

Jason

Here is what a cap kit looks like. And I gave you a link where to buy one.

Jason
OK i will pick up a batt asap and i will play with the adjustments when i get the batt fixed

buzz
Thank you for the pic! now i know what the hell they look like. I am still confused all to hell on what ones i need though :(

Thanks again guys. i really need the help, as you can see lol

Best to just replace all 16 of them.  If you or your Husband are not proficient with a soldering iron GOOD LUCK.


Jason   S+ / PE+ / PE  The comparator light will not come on with the main door open.

Good to know Buzz.

Jason

is the the cap kit like a standard kit that can be used on all machines or is it one you have to get just for your monitor?

I did turn it off then back on and it did go right to the black screen

You need a specific set of electrolytic capacitors to replace the ones you have. They call them "kits" because someone else has done the work of assembling all of the right capacitors for your particular board so you don't have to go hunting for each value yourself.

Buzz pointed you to Randy's page listing kits for specific monitors in this post (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=14311.msg122670#msg122670) back on page 2.

Here is the link again.
http://randyfromm.com/amusements/yellowpages/zanen/ (http://randyfromm.com/amusements/yellowpages/zanen/)   

I'm too lazy to read through everything again, so one of the PE experts here can tell you what brand and type of monitor you have.


Actually, the reason that I started this reply was to tell you that these capacitors are polarized – that is, they must be put in the right way. It's not difficult; you just have to pay attention.

<ADD> If you look carefully at the picture Buzz posted in reply 80, you will see that one lead of each cap is shorter than the other. The shorter lead is negative and the longer lead is positive. They will also usually have a stripe or an arrow pointing to the negative lead. The positive and negative holes on the board should be labeled, but the best thing to do is to note the orientation of the old one before you take it out and put the replacement in the same way.


Stat :31-

oh dear, these cap kits are making me nervous!

Ok so we got the new batt in but my husband had a hell of a time getting the soldering to stick to the batt, any advice on that one?

With the new batt in there is no change (black screen with call attendant, low batt and now door open.. but the door is closed)
We tried the normal.. reset key and test button, nothing

My husband thinks he fried the batt from heating it up to much, is that possible? he wants to solder something that will just kind of let you slip the batt in and out and will hold a better connection.

What do you guys think?

You have something strange going on.  Today just for a test I removed the battery from the MPU PE+ board and I got nothing but a BLACK screen. No errors nothing.  If you can see a error on the black screen, the monitor is trying to do it's job your just not getting any color.

I kind of think you need to reseat all the removeable eproms on your board. When I say reseat, just pry them up a small bit and then push them back down. I kind of think your cap problem will go away if you do this. You know a cap kit is not like a wonder pill, sometimes they fix a problem and sometimes they don't !!

It's no big deal soldering a battery. There are some folks on this site that will tell you to never do it. I do it all the time just because I was told not to do it. The secret is to take sandpaper and knock the glaze off the battery and use soldering flux. If you want to wait for one, PM me your address and I will send you one with leads already attached to the battery.  Battery holder your Husband wants to use would work, but remember the new battery you need is a 3.6 volt  battery, the coin type that go into a holder is most times 3 volt. The 3 volt will work just fine, just not for as long a period.

I hate to tell you this, but you really need to pull the monitor out and see who manufactured it. My guess is Ceronix but thats a guess.

I willl email Troy, he is theTech at Ceronix and see if he has time to look at the pictures of your monitor.

I'm in the camp of not soldering a battery, but putting that aside, if you took too long to get the solder to stick and overheated the battery – especially if anything bubbled out of the seams, then your "new" battery is probably already dead, or soon will be.

You'll probably want to either take Buzz up on his offer or solder in a holder.

Is this a good time to remind you to keep your husband away from the inside of the machine? :200- :97- :97-

Mouse   I emailed Troy the picture of your monitor and he thinks you have more of a game issue and not a monitor issue. In short do not order a cap kit. 

You thinking chips then Buzz?

Jason

At this point I don't know.  I just tried another experiment, I removed from the board one at a time, 7 eproms. They are MRO/MGO/MBO/MXO,  cap prom, Data, and program. I powered the machine up each time with one eprom removed from the board. I could not duplicate a black screen. I must have a intergrated machine, mixed colors no matter what I do.

Pic. below is when MXO was removed from the board. I think one of those 4 chips could cause the scrambled graphs. I know mine is mush worse than hers, but she still has a chip installed and maybe one of them has poor contact.    Sures hell doesn't help with a black screen does it ?? Flyback must be good, she can read " Battery Error " I'm thinking yesterday when I removed the battery, I would not get a Low Battery error because I didn't have a battery installed. I throw away all my low battery's so I don't have one to test with.

This one with all the chips installed.  I don't know who played that last hand.  " Sucker "

Another  :259- Buzz for doing all that work.  :131-  :3- :3-


Stat :31-

Thank buzz!! that makes me feel better to be honest.. kind of lol
Tonight we are going to get a batt with tabs on it, Raymond (husband) found one on eBay but we are trying our local batt store tonight.

Also the longer we leave the machine on, the worse the picture gets. i donno what that means.

Oh statfreak i was reading the msgs on here allowed to Raymond and i kinna blurted out your comment about keeping him away from the machine, before i could stop myself. So i got "sooo... who are these guys..... where do they live.." ect so hahahaha thanks for that :P

:D:D

West Coast  Long way to go to kick Stats Ass, but let me know when and where I wanna watch !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Before you go and buy one on Ebay, I will send you one.  It's not like I have a shortage of them. 

Anytime! :88-  Glad to be of service. :71-  :30-   :97- :97-

If your monitor is getting worse as it warms up, then there is most likely a problem with the monitor itself. 

As for the battery, I would check it with a multimeter before replacing it again.  You want about 3.6 volts.  I've soldered a few batteries in my time, and never had a problem with them.  You can get a cheap but functional multimeter for 10 to $15 at most auto parts stores if you don't have one.  It is well worth having if you are going to work on your own machine.  You will want it on the DC voltage setting to check the battery.

****sigh this is the THIRD time I'm writting this because of my browser, sorry i repeat myself i forget what i have and haven't wrote*** :25-

My last msg i posted i didn't see all the pictures that buzz posted. Thanks so much for doing some research for me :D Very nice of you :131-

So you want me to take the eproms out and put them back on to make sure it has a good connection?

AnotherTech, That's a great idea. Thank you, We will give that a try tomorrow.
If the batt is dead then we will check out or local batt store, but i don't think they will have the batt with the soldering tabs because when i called they didn't know wtf i was talking about! HHS So buzz if they don't have any i will send you a msg Thank you so much for the offer :D

Raymond didn't mean that he would go a round with anyone just wondering if anyone was close enough to still his new wife away hahahaha I'm made of gold you know! hahahaha  :208- :208-  :97- :97-

You don't have to completely remove the eproms, just pull them up about a 1/4 inch and push them back down. When your out looking for a battery pick up a can of electrical contact cleaner. If you get a can it can be used to clean the MPU pins where it plugs into the mother board.

If you think about it, your going to need two batterys. You have two boards.   

You mean two boards one for my old one and one for my new board... or is there a mystery board i don't know about yet... oh dear! lol

I am glad that i don't have to take them all the way out but how will i spray some of the electrical contact cleaner on it then? (I will pick up a can tomorrow I'm hoping) :D

******UPDATE******* :D

Ok so the ebay seller who sold me the new CPU board asked me if i got it and if it was working. I said that I got the board but that I was still having problems and asked him for advice, He asked for some numbers and sent me a whole "new" board.

So now the machine has a CLEAR SCREEN (no wiggels, lines or shakes!!) When i put the board in turned it on.. pressed the test button till i heard the ding sound, closed the door and turned the reset key i was very happy to see it run through a bunch of stats and different screens. Problem was that it went to a screen saying something about recovering memory and to please wait... then to the call attendant.. then back to please wait.. then call attendant. That is where it stayed. I feel so close but I am still so lost :(
Any advice?

So your screen isn't jumbled up anymore?  Try turning your jackpot key.  Anything change?

Jason

Open and close your door too.  Any change?

Jason

whats the jackpot key? I turn the key on the right side that i call the "reset key" is it the same thing? I have been opening and close but not turning the key at the same time.

We may need Buzz to jump in here, but we're getting close.  I'm not sure if a set chip is required.  At any rate try either of the procedures below.  I have the PE plus games emulated and I run 1 of the 2 procedures below depending on the game.

1.
be sure the door is opened
"CMOS DATA" will be displayed
press the self-test button
be sure the door is opened
"EEPROM DATA" will be displayed
press the self-test button
be sure the door is closed


2.
be sure the door is opened
"CMOS DATA" will be displayed
press the self-test button until a "beep" is heard
be sure the door is closed
press the jackpot reset button
be sure the door is opened
"EEPROM DATA" will be displayed
press the self-test button
be sure the door is closed

Thanks
Jason

ok, i tried both, no luck it just keeps going between "call Attendent" and "verifying game memory please wait"

Well, before I hit the hay, I was reading some other posts and if the CMOS is kaput, there may be a chance that a memory clear chip may be needed.  It has fixed other circumstances.  You might power it off and back on and try running the procedures again that I mentioned before.  Otherwise, let's see what some of the other members have to say.

Good luck!

Jason

Thank You for trying Jason :D

Is it cycling between these on its own, or is the message changing as you do something to the machine?  Since we're not there with you at the machine, you need to please tell us in as much detail as you can exactly what is happening so we can help you get up and running.

When you're seeing "Call Attendant", is that message on top of a set of five cards, or is it just in small letters at the top of the screen?

Maybe post a picture or two of what you're seeing so we can better help you?

Did the new board come complete with chips, or did you have to move your chips over?

What is displayed on the screen when you open the door (please tell us everything that is on the screen, or post a picture)?