New Life Games Tech Forums

Here is a brief summary of this common problem and some pictures that help illustrate the solution. Note that there is a picture of the 47k resistor in-line with one of the speakers. This is actually the place to put the 10k pots (potentiometer) if they are what is needed. The 47k resistor would be used on a Vision as described by idesign.

Thanks to idesign and DJH for their solutions and to mowtiss for starting the thread.

Note that these posts are not in the order originally posted.

« Reply #81 on: April 30, 2007, 06:07:58 AM »


NOTE: It has been stated by many that the best sound is achieved with a volume of 6 or 7 on the machine. If one uses the 10k pots it is best to set the level in the menus first and then adjust the pots for the desired volume to get the lowest signal to noise ratio.

You need to use 1/2 watt or better components. A 1/4 watt pot or resistor will burn out.


« Reply #82 on: April 30, 2007, 08:07:58 AM »

« Reply #30 on: April 25, 2007, 10:51:08 PM »
DJH

« Reply #31 on: April 25, 2007, 11:03:29 PM »

« Reply #32 on: April 25, 2007, 11:10:04 PM »

« Reply #36 on: April 26, 2007, 04:43:35 AM »

« Reply #41 on: April 26, 2007, 02:46:17 PM »

« Reply #45 on: April 26, 2007, 02:50:26 PM »

« Reply #46 on: April 26, 2007, 02:54:16 PM »

NOTE: This is the correct location for the splice but with an S2000 without the Vision or an audio amp, a 10k pot is needed here, NOT a 47k resistor. This should be done for both speakers. Mowtiss ended up replacing these resistors with pots to solve his problem.

Here is some more discussion from another thread regarding machines with amps.

Re: IGT S2000 Newbie Questions
« Reply #40 on: January 16, 2008, 03:54:31 PM »

Re: IGT S2000 Newbie Questions
« Reply #41 on: January 16, 2008, 03:59:41 PM »

Re: IGT S2000 Newbie Questions
« Reply #43 on: January 16, 2008, 04:14:54 PM »

Re: IGT S2000 Newbie Questions
« Reply #46 on: January 16, 2008, 07:28:42 PM »

I had the same problem with my S2000 and the sound humming from the LEFT speaker only, I followed IGT CN 3633 and it solved the problem!

Disclaimer: Good soldering skills with a sharp tip is a great help, delicate soldering of the MPU is required!

Please be advised the modification only requires to MPU P/N 75510502 Rev A and 75510504 Rev A. Raw boards 75510504 Rev B and 75510530 Rev C will not require this work. These changes have been incorporated into the artwork.

- Remove R26 on the backside of the MPU
- Lift pin 4 of U43 and clip close to the chip (tricky!)
- Hook up 24ga wire between U85 pin 5 and C70 pin 1
- Hook up 24ga wire between U85 pin 4 to C57 pin 1
- Hook up 24ga wire between C70 pin 1, J1 pin 18b
- Hook up 24ga wire between J1 pin 14a, C61 pin 2, and C70 pin 2
- Hook up 24ga wire between J4 pin 22a, J4 pin 22c, and J1 pin 14b

My machine has the multimedia board and also has amplified speakers, it worked on my machine. If your machine is anything different be cautious!

I used the 47 Ohm Resistor modification as suggested with great success, but also along the way learned some things that I wanted to share that may be helpful.  As part of this post I want to suggest the possibility that those that have made this modification may still not be receiving full or correct sound.

The Story:

I recently refurbished a total of (8) eight S-2000 machines.  These machines did not all come from the same casino, in fact, 3 different casinos, as far north as Canada and as far south as Tunica.  Most of these machines were standard games with Legacy sound that were not taking full advantage of the S2000’s sound capabilities.

I converted them all to games themes that made full use of the S2000's sound capabilities, like Tabasco, Wild Thing Black Leather, Cigar, Chainsaws & Toasters, Munster's, Phantom of the Opera, Genie, and Wild Thing Cigar.  To each machine I added a MMlite Sound Expansion card and of course the required Sound Enhancement Simm. 

And, exactly as reported in this thread above, each machine once powered back up had a whiny, humming noises coming from the top speakers.  This was more than just annoying and really distracted from the games sound. 

So, just like suggested, I added a 1/2 watt, 47 ohm, resistor, picked up at my local Radio Shack for only 20 cents apiece, to each of the top box speakers.  Like magic the sound distortion was gone.  I increased the sound volume to “7” and what a huge improvement…of course I was thrilled as I could now hear perfectly the stereo sound coming out of the top box speakers.

An Interesting Find:

You ever hear that saying “that some of the greatest inventions in our time came by total accident”?

Now by the time I got to my 5th machine, which happened to be a Chainsaws and Toasters, something different happened.  After I made the modification in the top box and powered the machine back on, the sound from the bottom base speaker was extremely loud….thump, thump, thump…and completely over powered the higher tone sounds coming from the top box satellite speakers.  Something was just not right here.

Odd…so the first thing I did was go back to the first 4 machines that I thought were “successful”, and put my ear down by the bass speaker.  What I discovered was that no sound at all was coming from this speaker.

The second thing I did was PM one the posters above to this thread to see if they ever had this problem to any of their machines….the answer came back “nope”.  While I waited for this response I went back and finished the 3 remaining machines.  They all seemed perfect and no loud thump, thump sound coming from the base speaker.  And, like the first 4 machines, when putting my ear down to the bass speaker, there was no sound coming from the bass speakers at all.  So this was a real head scratcher at first.   :103-

I went back to the Chainsaws and Toasters and decided to use some logic.  If the top 2 speakers were receiving too amplified of a signal originally that needed to be resisted, then why would this not be true of the bass speaker as well?  So what the heck, speaker wire is cheap, I clipped the bass speaker wire and added a resistor to it as well.  See the first photo below of the resistor added to the white wire of the base speaker.

WOW, incredible results, as the sound now completely balanced out between the higher pitched tones coming from the top box and the bass tones coming from the bottom tray bass speaker.  Now this is what IGT had intended us to hear…great stereo sound with a balanced blend of heart pounding thumps occasionally coming from the bass trays speaker!!!  And this is proof positive that a resistor is needed on that wire as well.

AND, now I had to ask “why was I not getting this great sound from the other 7 machines”?  Although the humming squeaky sounds were gone and the high pitched sounds from the top speakers were great, there was no great bass or any sound coming from the tray speakers on those machines….dang it!!

After some messing around and trying some different things I discovered that the bass speaker was not making a good or full connection on the 7 other machines.  Study the second picture below.  In my mind this is a poor design by IGT (no surprises here) in that after multiple removals and re-installations of the tray, the plastic Molex connection becomes bent and distorted.  So even though it seems as though the tray is fully seated when you reinstall and close your machine, it is actually about a 1/8” higher than it should be….impossible to really notice this…but I really believe this is the case.  7 of the 8 machines just shopped, all from different casinos, all had this issue.  It was just total luck that the Chainsaws machine was seating properly as intended which is why I received the true bass signal on that machine.

(continued next post)

So try this, as seen in the first photo below, remove the plastic Molex from both the tray AND the bottom of the cabinet.  Then try to fully seat it.  I found in all cases that it would not fully seat and for sure was not receiving full signal.  I also found that I had to use a small X-acto knife to clean up the female Molex as the plastic had bent and folded in not allowing for a fully seated connection.  Further, I had to use some needle nose pliers to straighten out and return to proper shape the male Molex before I could make a good connection.
Be careful, as shown in the second photo below, as you reinstall the tray, balance it on your lap, so you can use your free hand to keep the speaker wire pushed out of the way so that it does not get pinched.  Also be careful the next time you remove your tray as this connection is no longer anchored down.
Results!!!  Incredible sound now, once the resistors are installed on all 3 speakers, and proper connection is made at the bass speaker location.  Sounds I have never heard before…both Wild Things sound like a rock concert, the Chainsaw’s was truly addictive, and Phantom was eerie with the “moohaha’s” that you feel in your chest. 

Summary:

Any S2000 machine with the MMlite sound enhancement card and sound simm will definitely benefit from the installation of 1/2 watt, 47 ohm, resistors added to the white speaker wires at all 3 speaker locations.  Check you bass speaker connection as it is very likely not fully seated, not receiving full or any signal.  Finally, if you have made this mod already, and you do have a good bass speaker connection, it is very likely you are receiving too much bass signal, it is overpowering your higher pitched tones coming from the top box speakers and you are missing out on some great balanced sound.

Thank you Jim (arch)! I'll bet that a lot of S2000 owners will be thanking you for that post.  :3- :3- :3-

If anyone out there is adventurous enough to try IGT's official fix as posted by brian123dff, please post back and let everyone know how that went.
brian123dff, thank you as well for your post.  :3-

K+ all around.

Stat  :31-

That is a really good post Jim :131-
I love when guys "tinker" with their machines! :89-
I'm not surprised you found great results because of it! :3-

I feel really stupid, but where do you put the resisters on the S2000 vision? Thank you

There are 3 locations where you find white wires that need to be cut, strip a half inch off each end, and then twist tightly onto the resistors.  Do not cut the wrong wire because you will immediately see and hear a count down on your LED display and your machine will self destruct exactly 10 seconds afterwards.  :47-

First location is you base tray speaker.  Remove your tray and hopper and then find the white and green wire coming from the back of your machine to the Molex holder near black coin overflow chute.  See the first picture below and the red arrows.  My advice is that you remove the plastic Molex from the holder completely from the base of the cabinet and also from the back of your coin tray to make sure this connection is fully seated properly.  White wire...not the green one...should be cut, stripped, and resistor attached.

The second two locations are in your top box.  Simply find the white/green wire leading out from your side speakers on the left and right side of your cabinet.  The picture below is not a Vision but will look similar...again red arrows show the location of the wire and where to cut.  White wire...not the green one....should be cut, stripped, and resistor attached.

Good luck.

Jim

So, the vision and plain S2000 are in the same location? Use 47k 1/2 watt resisters?

I just took a look at one of my Vision's and they are in the same location as seen in the first picture below....however, just noticed the wire colors are the same in that case....oops...guess they ran out of green wire that day at the factory.   :25-

So if you do have a condition where the speaker wires are the same color, look closely at the second picture zoomed in....you want to cut the wire that is opposite to the molex clip anchor as shown in that pic.

Hope that helps.

Jim

Ok, now I am really lost. I did as you have in the picture and then I get no sound from the speakers. I used the same resisters, same wire location and all. Now I am going crazy.

Did you take them out and subsequently did the problem go away or is it still persisting ?

If it goes away something isn't right with what you did

...... If it doesn't go away its a different problem..... Ie wire fell off the speaker connector.

WIthout unsoldering etc. You should just be able to run a jumper wire over the resistor as a test.....

I remove the resister and then it works again ,but the same noise.

If I were a gambling man...which I am not...I hate Casinos and slots....I would bet that prior to the modification in it's over amplified state, your volume is turned way down low...like around "1", so after you make the mod you need to increase your volume up to around a "7" or "8" for me.  In other words, you cannot hear because your volume is still turned down low.

Jim

I did 1 speaker removed the other 2 and turned the volume up to 7 and still nothing

Sounds like the resistor is dead
Have you taken a multimeter to the resistor ?
You short your meter leads and zero the meter with the little dial assuming its an analog meter.

You should then be able to measure the correct amount of resistance across it.
The the meter doesn't register its a dead one.

If the value is too high you won't be hearing any noise.

or backwards?

I know my electronics are a bit dated.......Resistors are not uni-directional like diodes ......  unless you mean the wrong wire.

I think I have the problem solved.  I had Mike send me a PM of the exact model of resistor that he purchased at Radio Shack.

He ordered stock number 271-1130 which is a 47K Ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor - (so does this mean 47,000 Ohms ???)

The stock number that I ordered and had success with is the 271-1105 which is a 47 ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor - (no "K" in the description).

Would this be the reason??  Seems like.

Hello all!

When I have done this in the past I have used a lot smaller resistor than 47K - depending on the machine and if it has a Multimedia board - somewhere between 47 ohm and 200 ohm.  When I tried it the 1st time I bought a 10k potentiometer like posted here and it worked - but it was SO touchy trying to adjust it - that was because the 10K was way much more than needed.  I went and bought a much lower resistance one and then I had much better control.  I've always been surprised by the posts here about how large a resistor people are using....

Dan #2

Hi, back, I went by what was o nthe first page, so I should use a 47 and not a 47k? Also I bought a 10k .5watts pot , part number 271-1715
could i ue these? Thanks for all the input

I sent Mike a resistor color calculator chart....might help determine what he has exactly...
going by the colors on his resistors and entering those in the calculator will tell him what he has really...
this is a cool resistor link>>>


http://www.dannyg.com/examples/res2/resistor.htm

Hello all!

Here is a great web page to calculate resistor values or use the pic below :)

http://www.engplanet.com/content/resistorinfo.html (http://www.engplanet.com/content/resistorinfo.html)

Dan #2

All right, I found a 220 resistor and actually had the sound coming through. Tomorrow I will be getting some 47 resistors. Hopefully tomorrow it is happy times. Thank you all and K+ for all the help. Mike

or my resistor page:
http://marvin3m.com/resist (http://marvin3m.com/resist)

Just remember: Bad boys rape our young girls but Violet gives willingly. :25- :72- :96- :5-

And, if you're Ozzy, this one works for the tolerance codes: Bad beer rots our young guts but vodka goes well – get some now

        Ok , I had the noise (buzz, humm) what ever you want to call it.. I put in the resistor, but didn't like the out come. But what I did was swap the sound simm  into a good slot machine and the sound followed the simm.  So I guess this means the simm is jacked up right ?    :99-   How can I contact to get me a new one ? Its wild thing red devil... would like to have one that has Sam Kinnision version of the song instead.    
P.S. I stuck the wild thing in a Phantom of the Opera with nudge.... wow , funny stuff from the speakers...
Also looking for reel strips and all that is needed to make a new Wild thing (Black Leather) , Glass etc...

Thanks..

  :137-   U.S.Auto Service
        Dan

I finally found the perfect resister for my vision speakers. I found that 10ohm allowed it to be loud and no background un-needed sounds.

Thanks for the info Mike....were these 1/4 or 1/2 watt resistors?  Do you have a part number from Radio Shack?

They are 1/2 watt
radio shack number #271-1101
I was never totally happy with the sound on it. With 47 ohm and using the mm2 sound card it had to be on 10 volume for it to sound ok. Then went to mm2 and no resisters and it had a slight sound on volume 2, then finnally went with where I am at now and on volume 5 it is loud, clear and sounds good. Will put it on video later. Good Luck

Hey Tacman, I thought you would enjoy seeing this back in the machine.



original sound

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gwu3clkLQ1I (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gwu3clkLQ1I)

New Sound

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOmDmmg6tbI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOmDmmg6tbI)

Hey, always a good game to play,  :89- but the question is how long can you resist changing it to something else? Or has that already happened?  :72-

 Dan (tacman)

I think it will be Thursday. Probably back to the Munsters.

Hey folks,

I hope that any of you are able to help me by chance....

I have tried doing a resistor mod that everyone has been doing as I had the bad hum coming out of the left speaker on my new Super Spin Sizzling Sevens 2003 S2000, with sound SIMM and audio amp board. I looked at the last post as it was the latest and chose to use the same 10ohm resistors that were used as it was the last post, and it seemed to have good results. I have not done the bottom speaker yet as I have had an issue with the top speakers. The sound used to be set around 2, and now I have it up to 7 or 8 to be able to hear it. The loud hum is barely noticeable, and the sound is decent, but the left speaker has no sound now, just a low buzzing. (I unplugged the top exhaust fan so that I could hear better now.) I thought that it could be my soldering or a bad resister, but I checked continuity, and also read the right value on the resister. So I swapped the cables from left to right, and the sound followed the cable. The sound went to the left speaker, and the buzz went to the right speaker, now I unreversed them. Anyone have any suggestions, or has seen this particular scenario before? I have not undone the mod yet depending on what people suggest. Maybe I should be using the 47ohm??? Would it be different on a Vision like Mike was modding, as opposed to an S2000 like I have.

Also a bit more information.... My initial problem was the loud humm and buzz coming from the LEFT speaker, it was not coming from any other speaker. This seems to follow exactly the problem that someone described earlier (quoted below) in which they corrected the problem by following the IGT CN referenced. IS this a different problem that some have encountered or the same problem that everyone has had? I was thinking this is not supposed to apply to me since I think my MPU is 75510504 Rev E from peaking, but I am not positive as the MMLII board is currently stuck on the MPU as one of the screws is stripped all to hell, so I did not try to get it off right now. One problem at a time! :25- Is this a differnt problems than what people describe above or the same???

CaptainHappy :95- :25- :8- :37-

Can you troubleshoot this first by changing out the sound amp board in the top box and give us the results?  Also try seperating the speaker wires and pushing them as far away from from any power source lines.

Switching to the 10 ohm resistor is not really the solution here, it will cancel noise just as the 47 ohm resistor does  and will also allow the sound to be even a little louder as some were finding that with the 47 ohm resistor the sound is not quite loud enough even when set at 10....those damn kids and their rock music...gonna ruin their ears I tell ya... :30-

I had tried to swap amps earlier, and it reacted funny, so I shut it down immediately. It started to make some bad sound coming from the base bottom speaker as best I remember, so I hit the power fast. I feared electronics frying? I went back to the original amp and turned the power on and there was no sound at all. I played one game and it played OK, but when the 4th reel reacted weird and very slow. I cycled the power and it was back to the modified state with the resisters on the L and R speakers and the sound was only coming from the right speaker, and the left speaker had a slight buzz. I have looked at the amps and now realize they are slightly different. The spare on I had I got a couple years ago from someone to put into my 1997 S2000 Vision style machine, but that never happened. (no LCD BTW, std 3 reel) The part numbers are different.. Spare is 76924502 RevA, and the one in my new machine is 76928000 RevA. Pics attached for comparison. SORTA CHICKEN TO TRY AGAIN!  :99-

I am sure that I did the correct wires. Also I did the mod on the machine side, not the speaker side of the connector as there was more wire available on that side. I do not think that should matter.

Are you thinking something is wrong with the AMP? Have you seen this before?
Could the resister MOD damage the amp?

Did your machines have the noise only in the left speaker pre-mod?
After the 10K res mod does anyone still get a little buzz in the left speaker?

Should I unsolder the resisters to test the existing amp again in an unmodded state? I knew I should have tried with aligator clips first!
(If I leave the resistor inline, and clip over both ends with a jumper would that create the same UN-MODDED condition? I forget my basic electronics.. not sure if the jump would work for a quick test???)

I just did a few other quick tests before finishing this post...

After the amp swap scare, I had left the base speaker out. As a test I put it back in and it gets the same buzz that the left speaker gets! (Remember this connection is still un-modded.) Almost seems like too much bass right now... The mod would probably balance this correct?

I decided to try the sound tests to see if anything was happening at all with the left speaker. The weird thing is that the speaker gets a very low sound out of it. I can hear the same as came out of the right speaker. I did another experiment of unlugging the right speaker to hear better. I can confirm that the left speaker is getting the signal, but at a really low level even at volume 10.

Not sure if this helps??

Also as a final reminder... Amp and speakers were working prior to these mod's, just had the loud whine and humm in the left speaker.

Thanks to the people who help on this.

Regards,

CH :95-

Is it possible that this could be caused by a bad ground/cold solder joint somewhere in the left signal portion of the amp?

What happens when you turn the stereo off?

Is it possible that typically the bad sound coming from the left speaker is a result of the printer being there?  The speaker wire is always sandwiched between the cabinet and the metal frame of printer which is energized.  I recently shopped out a 5-reel MS LGM Vision that was getting a popping sound in the left speaker.  I found the speaker wire wrapped around the power cable that went to the printer.  After I unwrapped and seperated the cables the popping was significantly reduced and less frequent.  Then installed the 47 ohm resistor and had perfect sound.

Also, when you changed out the amp before, is it possible that you had the volume up high to compensate for an amp that was going bad?  So when you installed a new amp it pushed the sound signal at full strength resulting in the loud noise distortion from your speakers.  Now that you have the resistors installed, I would suggest changing the amp out again with the volume set to 6 before you make the swap.

On the original problem I would also check the harness that is plugged in on the left, it has the wires from the base of the machine that go to the amp.  Have seen some with 4 wires and others with 6 wires, I believe the six wires is the channels separated for true stereo sound.

Nothing... Sound comes from right speaker. Low noise and BUZZ in left speaker. If I unplug right speaker and listen close to left speaker can hear the normal game sounds coming through under the BUZZ. (Could it be BUZZ's fault? HA HA :97- )
I have tried a different speaker as well to rule out a bad speaker.

Another note: The noise/buzz seems to follow the reel spin, which makes sense as this IGT problem was identified to happen with backlit reels as is described in the CN. I say this because when I get a pay that causes the 4th bonus reel to decellerate, the interference will change with the speed of the slowing 4th reel!


It has the 6 wires where plugged in on the left.

CH :95-

I believe it is caused by the back lit reel controller.


I even relocated back lit controller power connection from the Netplex harness for the top box (My connections where near the motherboard) to the actual power wires going to the motherboard.
I have done the MPU rework as posted in this topic for the 02 Rev A board.
I decided to try to see what may be causing the buzz in the speaker.
So I unplugged things that are not needed for basic machine operation: fluorescent lights, topper, back lit controller, printer, etc.
Added them back one by one until I heard the noise, took me a while waiting for machine to boot each time.
As soon as the machine was up with the back lit controller I heard the buzz.
I undid it and finished adding everything else back.
No Back lit controller no buzz, Back lit controller buzz is there.
The only thing I have not done is get another ferrite choke for the power harness going to the back lit controller.
I think back lit controller makes so much EFI/RFI that it travels right through the power into the audio section on the MPU and MMLB2

Wires were pretty clear, and I seperated them even more drastically and there was no change. The left speaker wire was going over the top of the printer near the front, not along the back wher the printer power and connections are.

I just got this machine, and sound was initially set on 2, and game sounds were ok except the loud buzz and humm in the left speaker.
I did the 10 ohm mod on the L & R top speakers, and I have not yet touched the base speaker in the bottom. After this the sound was softer so it was turned up to 6-7-8 range. I could not here the game sounds on the left, but the humm and buzz was lessened considerably. (I later discovered if I unplug the base and right speakers I can VERY faintly hear the game sound on the left speaker. This is still the case.)
I tried changing the amp to one that I had, not noticing that they are a little different, see pictures, and I will attach DOCs on them to a later post. It gave some bad sounds and scared me so I turned it off. Took it out and put the original one in again, and on the reboot the reel behaved weird and slow. Sound was at 6-8 range still. After another power cycle it was giving out the game sound as before and as before the left speaker was having same problem as before.

That was earlier. after reading your post I decided to try the AMP again and there was zero sound at all. I looked it over and noticed something different on one amp as compared to the other! Take a close look at the pictures that I posted on reply #42 at connector J1. On one amp it is reversed compared to the other. I noticed that the latch is on the top on one, and the bottom of the other..... WHY WOULD THEY DO SOMETHING SO IGNORANT?? JUST TO F :58- :58- :58- with people??? I am tired now, super frustrated, and I can't really tell if they changed the layout on the PCB to keep the signals for pins 1, 2, 3, &4 matching with the cable from the machine. Or did they reverse it to kill it??? I looked at the schematics that I have attached, and if I read it correctly, they have kept the signal going to the correct pins even with the layout change, but I am not sure anymore as the frustration meter is pegging at max. I also determined theat teh chip at U1 is totally different, and so is alot of the component layout. (It is obvious if you look at the big caps one the sides of U1 as an example. See Picture!) The U1 is the audio power amp chip and it is a Phillips TDA8567Q on the 76928000 board, and it is 35Wx4, and on the other board is a Phillips TDA7454 on the 76924502 board, and it is 25Wx4, so things are definately different.

Anyone ever notice differences in the AMPs like this? I have attached ASSY Drawings and Schematics to this and the next post since it is 4 files.

NOW I am temorarily back to the un-modded state as I clipped the wire on one side of each resistor and bypassed the resistor. Sound on the right is nice at volume of 2 again in "un-modded" state. Sound in left speaker suped low, basically not hearable unless all else is off so you can hear only that. SO has the AMP gone bad, or is there something else wrong with the machine now???

WHERE DO I GO FROM HERE? BRAIN HURTS RIGHT NOW!  :5- :5- :5-  MAYBE THE INFO I PROVIDED WILL HELP? Thanks to everyone for their help?

CaptainHappy :95-  :149- :149- :149- :99- :99- :99-

DOCS FOR SPARE BOARD I HAD.

I posted these for people to have it it helps them and possibly me too!

CH :95-

Foster,

I have to agree with you as I hinted toward the same thing of it being related to the backlit reels in my posts. Also the CN specifically states that the subject is: 80960 STEPPER BACKLIT REEL NOISE ON LEFT CHANNEL and in the text the cause is: THE LEFT CHANNEL DOES NOT HAVE THE CORRECT GROUND AND VOLTAGE ROUTING FOR THE 75510502 REV A AND 15510504 REV A BOARDS. The fix is a rework to correct and reroute the pwr and gnd. They go on to say that the 75510504 Rev B and 75510530 Rev C do not need the fix as the artwork was changed on them. My problem is that I think my board is a 75510504 REV E, can't read it fully right now. I would then assume logically that the artwork should have been corrected in this revision, but I had that EXACT problem as described.

My BIG problem now is that I do not get game sounds from the Left speaker anymore with or without the resistor mod.... Something died??? But as I stated in other posts, I can hear a VERY faint game sound in the left speaker... it is hiding in there.

Thanks for any thoughts! :3- :88-

CH :95-

If you have a Multi Media Liite board in the machine it may be the problem.  If you do, try a different board if you have a spare.

Excellent post ruden! :3-

The 2 AMP boards   76924502 & 76928000  not sure if one was for I game or what, after checking  76924502 amp board and others have the 8000 board and hear no issues from the 2 different ones. all jumpers on the boards seem to be the same.

I thought Blueridge talked about the two different boards before but might of been on the old NLG.

I don't know what I wrote before but here is some info I found notes on, the first is a list from IGT

13100300   AMPLIFIER ASSY-IN LINE,VSN RDY
13100301   REPLACED BY 13100302
13100302   REPLACED BY 13100303
13100303   AMPLIFIER ASSY-IN LINE,VSN RDY
13100304   REPLACED BY 13100400
13100400   AMPLIFIER ASSY,IN LINE, UNIV

my notes
13100400 is assy with 76928000 board and is in games I have seen made from 7/02 (both I+ and S-2)
13100301 is assy with 76924501 and is in I+ (4/2000)
13100302 is assy with 76924502 in S-2000 (11/00) but also have had in I+

New board number in 13100400 rev A is 76928001

I'd try sticking a 400 amplifier assy in a 802 board?
Just to see if they're any sound problems?

Just too add to the info  I have two machines with amp boards and back-lit reels. The one machine has a 504 Rev. B board and no issues with that at all. The other has a 502 Rev. A board and has loud hum  out of both speakers even after installing the 10 ohm resisters.

My amp assy is PN 13100401 Rev A,
Vendor 1001780 Date 646
Board 76928004 Rev A MC4306

I should have went one more line down, but since it said AVP I didn't, but here it is for future look ups

13100401   AMPLIFIER ASSY,IN LINE, AVP1

I finally made a little more time to take a close look at this, and I have solved the problem!!! Thanks to all who contributed to trying to help me out! :131- :3- :3- :131- K+ To Be Distributed!  :3-

As I had mentioned before I could not check my processor board model for sure (I thought that it was a 75510504 Rev E) due to the MMLII board being screwed down (Tight like it was done with air tools!  :25- ) with STRIPPED screws. I also could not change the MMLII board as a test as well, and that was one of the first things I wanted to do!  :30- I finally decided to drill the screw head (in the PIC you can see that I need a new hex standoff since the body of the screw is still inside! :97- ) on the last screw that I could not get out. If you look at the first PIC you can see that the board is actually a 75510504 Rev EA, has anyone ever seen this REV before??? :103- I do not think that it has the mod from the IGT ECN done in the artwork as the ECN suggests it should be done like the future revisions because it had the noise in the left speaker. I am old fashioned, but I thought that IGT would step their rev's in a normal manner like A, B, C, D, E, but who says IGT is logical!  :5- :5- :5- I found another MPU board that I had put away was re-labelled as a rework 75510504 Rev B, and it had the rework done for IGT as described in the ECN.... If anyone wants me to I can take pictures of all of the rework on this modified board so that it can be documented here. Just holler if you want me to do that!

The problem that I found when I had the MMLII off the board and I could get it in good light for a good exam was that a capacitor was damaged on the MMLII board at location C59. SEE PICTURE!!! I am realizing now that I had never had the MPU board out of the machine before I noticed the problem, so I bet the left speaker was not giving game sound since I got the machine! When I picked it up recently I did not test it, and wish I would have now as I would have noticed this and some other things that I have had to fix!

THANKS AGAIN FOLKS!! More good reading for the folks that have a similar problem in the future. (Too many things went wrong at once... I also am thinking that I have a bad spare AMP too!) At least it is playing now.

Regards,

CH :95-


NOTE: NO PICS FOR NOW, DUE TO THE FOLLOWING ERROR:

An Error Has Occurred!
The upload folder is full. Please try a smaller file and/or contact an administrator.   

I BETTER CONTACT AN ADMINISTRATOR! :5- :5- :208- :5- :5-    :25- :25- :25- OH, THAT WOULD BE ME!  :205-

sTAY TUNED FOR picS LATER??? :79-

Hopefully attached are the two pictures mentioned above, that is if I ADMIN'd properly!!  :208- :103-

CH :95-

So Mr. Admin, what did you tell yourself to do to fix the problem?  :96- :30-  :97- :97-

Glad to hear y'all can hear your machine now, ya' hear? :208- :208-

It was a little strange in this case as I normally talk to myself all of the time, but I rarely listen, this time must have been an exception!!!!  :97- :97- :97- I guess that I am practicing just in case I ever decide to get married!  :208- :208- :208-

CH :95-

I would think that if you wanted to practice for marriage, you'd continue ignoring yourself.  :96-  :25- :97- :97- :97-

SF :31-

Good time to brush up on your soldering skills capt and get yourself a new cap and solder it in!
The pictures are good...what are the major differences between the revisions?
The upgraded resistors, like ruden pointed out earlier?

That is going to be one of the projects that is put on the endless list!  :97- :97- :97-

I think that you have the wrong board in mind for the damaged CAP... The part number picture is of the MPU board as I had never seen a REV EA before, and I was wondering if anyone knew about it? Also wondering since it seems to have the noise problem just like the REV A, and I assumed the problem was solved in REV B and beyond? SO why this one is not solved already is a mystery? I am not sure of the revision changes, so that is why I ask here, and I think you wonder the same? Who can set us straight on the revision history??

The second board pictured is not the MPU board, rather it is a MMLII board.

The upgraded resistors that I think you are referencing from Rudens post are his solution to the sound issue, and he was talking about putting them inline in the wires before the amp. That is unless you are talking about a previous post from a previous page? Right now I have the Mod of 10 ohm resistors put in after the amp before the speakers, and the sound is good. There is still a little buzz in the left speaker, but it is not near as bad as before, actually it is drowned out by the exhaust fan that is in the top box on the machine. :71-

CH :95-

Confused noob. I have the hum on a Super Spin Sizzling Sevens. Do I need pots or resistors for my non-Vision game.

Thanks.

Pots ARE resistors...except pots are "ADJUSTABLE" resistors.
I'd go with real resistors anyday...pots burn out and change values way too easily.

Ok thanks. I bought 47 and 47k, plus some 100's and two other sets, 5 differents sets total. 99 cents for a pack of 5, surely I'll find something that sounds good.

Chuck

Great! Hopefully you'll be humming away your humming noise...lol :200-

Let us know how it sounds when you get the resistors in there!

Stout is right the pots won't work for you.  And take back the 47k packs...those won't work for you either.  The 47's are good but you might find the volume is too low even if it is set at max.  Best results seem to come from the 10 ohm resistors.   Also a tip, be sure to wrap all exposed wires and resistors with electrical tape or you will get some loud static noises when they touch the metal cabinet.

I think I bought 10 ohms as well. They were only .99 a pack. I'm sure I'll find something to use them on.

What a great site, everyone has been very helpful so far.

Chuck

Just to add my 2 cents worth here...

I had good results with the 10 ohm resistors as well, and I used heat shrink tubing to seal it up nicely. (Just remember to slide the tubing over the wire before you solder "BOTH" sides of the wire to the resistor! :25- :97- :97- :97- )

CaptainHappy

I am using 47 ohm resisters or so pulled off dead S+ MPU's, without the amplifier in use.
What do I do if I want to use the amplifier?
Or is there a better MPU that quiets up the Hum and Buzz so the resistor are not needed?

Get a 504 MPU board and the noise goes away.

Is it really necessary to put the resistors on all three speakers? Would it cause problems if I do just the left one?

Chuck

All of them.  You need to maintain the sound level evenly.

Ichogger,
How's the sound on your machine now?
Did you ever check to see what board versions ( MPU, Multimedia, and AMP) you have?

Haven't messed with it yet. Been sidelined the last month with a torn Achilles that I had to have surgery on, so I'm  not too mobile right now. It sucks too as I have lots of new goodies for the machines. I just finished giving them a good cleaning and putting led bulbs in all the buttons when it happened. I had just received a topper, insert and the lit up bill accesories to finish them off and sadly it's all sitting in a box waiting to go in. I've been able to play them a bit, just not work on them.

FYI, Eagle One Nevr-Dull in the automotive section at Wal-mart or at any auto store works wonders on the chrome of the machine, especially the dried gunk when you take the buttons out.


Chuck

I've got a 504 rev A board with a 4402 rev A multimedia board and still get pretty good hum out of left speaker. I thought the 504(this one has the igt mod) wasn't as suseptable to this problem :103-

80% of the time I have seen improvement, not perfection, but improvement with a 504.  The other 20% of the time I notice no difference.  Why? Hell if I know.

seems to do fine on volume levels above 1, but big volume differance between 1 and 2. Might look for a trashed stereo receiver and use the volume control out of that on the input side of the amp.

I don't have a 504 MPU board of any revision and I assume that this was the
board that was revised by IGT to address these problems.
I can't help anyone there because IGT won't give me the time of day either...LOL
I would like to point out though that I had absolutely no sound whatsoever coming out
of my tray speaker a couple of weeks ago when I installed a different sound simm card onto the MML piggyback board.
I tried the pencil eraser trick on the tabs of the Simm card and reinstalled the card
and the machine restored it's full 3 speaker sound - along with the famous humming.
I soldered in the 47 ohm resistors inline with all 3 white speaker wires.
The machine sounds much, much better! :136-

I believe you need the 504B board. I have a 504A and I still get the humming/static sounds. 504B took that away.

Rob

Go figure, damn IGT's got more revisions to their stuff than congress! :97- :200-

 :72-

Does anyone know if the output audio going to the amp board in the top box is pre-amped. I grabbed a ground loop isolator from radio shack today and installrd it inline between the mpu and amp. It sure takes out reel hum and static, but kills volume level to :8- Gotta turn volume up to 10 to get volume level 1 audio levels. The reason I ask about pre-amplification is because the groung loop isolator package says not to hook it up directly to speakers. I assume it's a little power sensitive. Any ideas? :103-

So after reading this enormous thread, it sounds like the 504 B MPU is the long term fix for this issue correct?  Regardless of MML board, SIMM, amp, etc, the 504 B board will cure the buzz/interference problem and not require the implementation of resistors with the 3 speakers right?

If one chooses to pursue the resistor route, is the correct path to use 47 ohm, 47k ohm, or 10 ohm resistors?  Or does this depend on which version of board/'s you have?

I would gladly diagram this out in a flow chart, unless this is a complete "Your mileage may vary" circumstance. 

Thanks,
Jason

I'm holding in my hand a huge 5 watt, 27 Ohm resistor that works for me.
It's so heavy duty that it will probably outlast my speakers...  :5-
I was too lazy to drive to the store.
I had some of these laying around and soldered them in onto the white wires.
They work great on my machine!
The speakers sound awesome!
10 Ohms, 47Ohms try 'em...They will all work....some better than others.
Just remember to use the same ones on all three speakers!
Experiment.... :89- :71-

Heck! Run the speakers into an amplifier!!! :72-

Ok, not trying to burst any bubbles here, but all these fixes that seem to work are only masking a deeper electronic problem. This is fine, but I would think between us we could find the root cause. Obviously the humming is always there and when you spin the reels it gets worse. So the source of the problem would seem to be a bad or weak ground between the reels and the multi-media board where the sound comes from. I've got 504a boards with the IGT upgrade. All the jumper wires they add only look to try and improve grounding. I don't have a 504B board for comparison to see what they did differant and I don't have schematics to trace ground paths from the reels back to the mpu board. Has anyone tried tapping into the ground wires from the reels and going directly to the power supply with heavier wire or across a capacitor to ground? Maybe the problem backfeeds through the amp board power supply lines. A cap placed inline on the positive lead to the amp board would cure it in this case. Anyway, with the right tools and a little detective work we might be able tokeep this thread from going over 10 or 11 pages and put this thing to rest

Radio Shack part number 271-1105 - 47 ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor did the trick for me per Bettor Slot's direction.  I put them on all three speakers (white wires).

The 504-b board is the better fix. I have the top speakers with  resistors. It got rid of the  static. Then I got the 504-b from Rocky Mt. Slots, warranty. A full enhanced sound.
Please make sure your bottom speaker wires are separated. There are two terminals, each with two spades. If you by chance use the same two spades you will hear the reel spin noise. I know this sounds elementary but it has happened.

I've got the 504 rev B boards, and on one machine there's a really bad, "whump, whump, whump" sound as the reels spin.  That game has a multimedia lite board installed, but there's no sound SIMM in it.

Is my problem that I still need to install 10 ohm resistors (even on the 504 B?), or is my problem that I have a MML board with no SIMM in it?

why not try removing the MMLII board and try it.

w

Kevin  make sure one of the reel basket spokes isn't  hitting one of the backlit bulb holder. "whump, whump, whump"

Well, I went in the other direction -- I had an unused DSV00042 in the third machine I bought (I haven't even turned that one on yet), so I "borrowed" that SIMM and put it in the whump, whump, whump machine.  The sound was really muddy at first, but then I went through and changed the settings to stereo, and enhanced reel spin sounds, rollup, etc.  Wow!  It's fantastic!  All the speakers work on that machine, and it sounds great!  I can hear just the slightest bit of "static" when the machine is idle -- I suppose a 10 ohm resistor along with a slight increase in volume would cover that up, but even right now it sounds fantastic -- I didn't realize that S2000 machines sounded that good!

On top of it all, while noodling around I got to hear quite a bit of the rollup tune, as I hit a 3000 credit award!  I took a picture and will post it in the 'best slot hits' category.

So, for what it's worth, on an S2000 machine with a 504 B board and a multimedia lite board with no SIMM, installing a SIMM will remove the whump, whump, whump sound.

It seems to be working fine, but how do I determine if I'm using the correct sound SIMM with my kit (it's a 2 coin White Stars game -- and I stole the SIMM from a 3 coin White Ice game)?


Buzz- Just saw your post as I was posting -- thanks for the suggestion.  It sounded like the noise was coming from the speakers, but now with the sound SIMM in there it's gone.

K+ to you and Wayne for the suggestions.

I can visualize the sound effects. Great job Buzz. Seriously. K+

Kevin this is apples and oranges but the first Big Time Pay I got, it had the wrong sound simm in it. It made a Quacking sound like a Duck when a BTP symbol hit. Hit on the #1 reel and it quacked out of the left speaker. #2 reel out of the right speaker.  If you pressed the change button it would quack. I sold the machine to Ashyron he got tired of the duck and pulled he simm out.

Haha, funny.  Sounds like you had the Quack Shot SIMM.  Quack, quack.

That's what it was. :114- (We don't have a duck emote)

Don't run a MM Lite without a Simm on it, makes no sense to do that, someone just stole the Simm off it, the static will go away without the MM Lite on it a well, and the DSV 42 is wrong on the BTP, you need the DSV 51 for the correct sounds, we have all the themed sound simms in stock

Kevin,

The White Stars and White Ice games should have the 42 sound SIMM as it is universal in all regular themed games. It will work in specialized theme games as well, but just not with all of the special sounds!

And for Buzz... we really liked the quacking, but I think that people thought I was crazy repeatedly pressing the "GREAT SERVICE" AKA Change Button just to keep it quacking! Maybe I have gone QUACKers!! :5- :200- :97-

CH :95-

You Qwazy Qwacker! :72-

CH are you saying that a 42 SIMM would work in specialized themes?  ie. my BTP?  There would be sounds missing like voices, etc, but, would reel spin, roll-up sounds etc be there?  You know me, I like to tinker.  ;)

Are these the sounds of a 42 SIMM?  I'd love to test this "Franken-S2000" concept, if it won't do any harm to my machine.  :D


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddwwpO7lF_A (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddwwpO7lF_A)

Jason,

Yes you would get some enhanced, but not specialized sounds. It would be better than not having a sound simm at all. Go for it is what I say!

CH :95-

For the record, a DSV00042 in a Big Times Pay is a waste, stick with the DSV00051.

One thing I am still unclear about is the "better" fix of a 504b board as IFFV68 stated.  He claimed that he bought a 504b board, but still had resistors on the speakers?  If the resistor modification is removed from the speakers with the 504b, is the static/noise still gone?  I'm just trying to understand how this is a "better" fix, because my 504a board has the same resistors applied and it sounds great and has no static coming through now.

Thanks,
Jason

I have a 504B board with no resistors at all in it and have no problems with hum.. every great once in awhile when there's a lot of sounds playing, ie during a bonus, I'll get a little hint of static but it's hardly noticeable.

On my machines with good sound, they have the 504B boards with no resistors and they're set to volume 1.  If I listen closely I can hear a tiny bit of hissing.  I suspect that installing the resistors would let me increase the volume beyond 1 and still get good sound, perhaps cutting down on the hissing.  The noise is barely noticeable, however, so I don't plan on doing that anytime soon.

So who sells 504B boards?

The D.D.haywire machine came with a 502 board & I had the static sound. I installed the resistors & the static went away. Then I received the newer 502 board modified to be like the 504b. I installed that & left the resistors in place.
I don't really know if that was a better fix, I do know that I have zero static on all speakers. The 504b is the way to go, especially with enhanced sound. I also have the 0042 chip.

hope this may help.
IFFV68

Look for the S2000 boards from Slot Parts Store on ebay
I got fairly reasonable with nice strips and IGT ROM's on the board. the VS chip  in the board is the VS011NX5. I have not swapped my 11GX1 version in yet.

BY the way, these are the Version chips I know of >>>

The version PROM controls what is available to meet special jurisdictional
requirements and controls what certain features and options are available.
The label indicates STEPPER VERSION and the version number:
 
VERSION    DESCRIPTION     
VS011CX0    single denomination –Colorado ONLY     
VS011CX1    multi-denomination –Colorado ONLY     
VS011GX0    single denomination     
VS011GX1    multi-denomination     
VS011GX2    multi-denomination with denomination-plus mode     
VS011GX3    multi-denomination with fractional-cent     
VS011IH0    single denomination –Netherlands ONLY     
VS011IH1    multi-denomination –Netherlands ONLY     
VS011IX0    single denomination –International     
VS011IX1    multi-denomination –International     
VS011NX4   single denomination –New Jersey ONLY     
VS011NX5    multi-denomination –New Jersey ONLY   

get a enhanced board like this..... the sound is awsum on it no hissing at all......

RE:
47 Ohm VS 47K Ohm Resistors.

47 Ohm--Is Just That--47 Ohms.

47K Is 47 THOUSAND Ohms.
The "K" Means--Thousand
Needless To Say--The 47 Ohm--Is Probably The Right Choice.
I Have Not Tried The "Hum Modification" But I Doubt If You Could Hear ANYTHING With 47 THOUSAND Ohms Blocking The Audio Signal.
 

DAVEdetroit,
If you re-read this thread - you'll find that the 10 Ohm resistors works best.
I have 47 Ohm resistors because that was all I could find at the time.
However, I got lucky and they work okay too...

47's work great in mine as well.  Not a single hiss nor hum.

STAZ,

Is that a photo of a 044 Board?
My 044 Board  has the six screws attaching the daughter Board.
My 504-b Board has two screws.

i think it is, i knew it as a enhanced board....

Short answer... NO, but close... :103-

It is the S2000 Enhanced MPU Board (Some call it the 127 or 1270 board) with the Legacy Adapter Board that allows you to use standard S2000 Eprom games and sound simm. (No more MMLBII board needed!) There is also another board that can be plugged into the place of the legacy board that is a flash board that is called an "R" board. It is factory flashed with a dedicated game, and it is the S2000 version of the similar design flash board that goes on to a iGame 044 MPU board.

CaptainHappy :95-

Where are these nickname numbers (044, 127) coming from?
The IGT part NO# that's etched onto the board?
or from something that's printed onto the top of a chip?

they are from part nimbers, eg. Game King 75704400. There are also 04401, 04402 and likely more...  The "044" board is for the iGame and not the s2000.  I have seen S2000 enhanced boards listed as "S2000 044 board"  which is incorrect.

W

Thanks Mopar! I was wondering about that.  :131-

What about the Motherboards for the 044 and 1270 boards are they the same?

My tray board Assy # is 7551270. It has the moving handle on it.  I thought this was the 044 board.

I believe the board that goes on top with the sound Sims  is, Assy. # 7682810. I believe this is the Daughter Board.

Does this sound right.

Daughter board or LEGACY adapter for the one used to adapt older s2000 chips and simm cards to enhanced MPUs

As long as we're talking FAQ and stickies (in the other thread), could some S2000 experts look at the THIS thread with an eye towards pruning it to be more of an FAQ?

It has ballooned to 125 posts; I would like to keep the accurate essential posts that cut to the chase in the sticky thread and split the rest into a regular thread. Let me know which replies numbers to keep and I'll prune it.

Thanks,

StatFreak :31-
:nlg-  Global Moderator

I tried this mod. on  all 3 speakers on one of my S2000 machines with a regular non-enhanced cpu, mm lite sound board and proper simm. The static and hum was gone but the sound level was much lower than before. Any ideas as to what else I can try? I have this same mod. on a few of my other machines and they sound perfect.

What size resistors are you using? I use 10 ohm and usually adjust volume up 1 to compensate for volume loss

I tried the 10 ohm and the 47 ohm as well, same results, in fact it actually sounds muffled and low. I installed another mm lite board from another one of my machines that sound fine and got the same results.

Radio Shack part number 271-1105 - 47 ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor did the trick for me.  I put them on all three speakers (white wires).  Set volume at 7. 

Jason

Are you putting one in line on each speaker lead (+&-) to each speaker? You might try swapping your amp board along with doing the mod. You may have two problems. Also check to make sure the + and - leads to your tray speaker aren't plugged to the speaker backwards

Here you go Stat...this thing's like way too long now anyways... :72-

I installed them inline on the white wire on the speaker side of the 2 wire plug, and I have tried another good amp and still get the same results, low muffled sound.

Check the jumper positions
I could not detect any difference when switching the ones near the input
but if the other 2 are wrong you wont have any mid range or treble

all 4 are in the same position, the left 2 pins.

If your tray speaker is working then you have the output jumpers configured correctly
Like I stated before I can not tell any difference between the configuration of the input jumpers.

I finally noticed the static on mine but I have to be up against the speaker to really notice it.
If my top box fan on I notice the fan noise and not any noise from the speaker.

Post a recording of what your sounds like.

When I was making a harness for my top box, converting from vision ready harnesses to S2000 harnesses. I didn't install the attenuation jumper wires in the input black connector and the Buzz and noise was extremely loud.

I even have my top box fan disconnected, and mine's quiet.  Our ears and sound criticism are all different though.   Is the problematic MPU a 504A?  That's what I'm running.

Jason

Thanks, but it looks a little rusty.  :200- :47-


The goal is to identify the posts in this thread that offer the most accurate information in the most concise manner and then cull them out and lock them. (The thread is already stickied.) The rest will be left in an unlocked and unstickied thread that can continue to ramble indefinitely. I don't have the hands on experience with the S2000 necessary to make the choices. It should preferably be someone who has tried various resistors in many different machine configurations and knows which values work best in which situations.

I know that Buzz knows which boards do and don't need the mod and I think he's used much lower-valued resistors successfully.

(Paging Foster, Buzz, et al) :96- :72- :72-

Stat :31-
:nlg-  Global Moderator

I'm not an electrical wiz. But, I do remember reading somewhere, that the color code is oriented in the proper direction. The previous post in the matter of the diode I believe is correct. Just wondering if the sound resistor needs to be the same ?  There should be a site that explains color codes and orientation. 
I have the REV. A board and it hums . .unfortunately the sound needs to be low. Still sounds like somewhere in the line it is picking up interference from another device. It would be nice to isolate the source, and use a barrier (rubber), or something.

Resistors do nor have a polarity they only resist the flow of electrons.
Diodes have a NP junction that has a polarity.

501, 502, 503, 504A need the resistors or mods to make them match the 504B
The reason the buzz or hum occurs because the audio and/power traces for the audio on the MPU pick up noise from other traces near them.

It would be nice to isolate the source. . .

At one time some on posted the IGT bulletin instructions on here either as a post or PDF cant remember which.

I followed he bulletin to the letter. I think it helped.
The only other way is to figure out what section of the audio is being affected, I heard it is more pronounced when a MML2 Board and sound simm is being used.
I do not have an easy to test this without performing a major MPU and motherboard replacement (I have a 502A and a 504B with motherboard but they are considered spare parts for now
machine has 1270 MPU, legacy adapter and motherboard in it now

I still wonder if some of the machine to Amp harnesses have the attenuation jumper wires installed properly, mine are set to the highest attenuation. I am not talking about the little jumper blocks on the amp

I'm thinking if one had an Oscilloscope, the source could be pinned down.

If you don't mean the little jumper blocks on the amplifier board, what jumpers are you referring to?

If you look at the input harness to the amp
there are 2 wires that act as jumpers between 2 sets of pins on the black input connector

Top box, speaker wiring diagram with amp or EZ pay bulkhead retrofit wiring diagrams
Pin 1 Channel B 19:1 Attenuation to pin 9 Channel B Attenuation Common
Pin 5 Channel A 19:1 Attenuation to pin 4 Channel A Attenuation Common

And you cant get any more attenuation than 19:1 the other settings are lower, volume level 1 would be loud if you tried them.
Temporarily remove one end of the jumpers from the connector and listen how loud the noise is without them

Thanks Foster!
Karma Plus + to you!
I was wondering what you meant by jumpers other than the blocks.
Excellent answer!  :89-
I will check it out... :79-

I had some sound problems last week as I wasn't hearing the high treble notes being played just before a "Free Spin" bonus round.
I wasn't hearing the the high pitched "ting" sounds alerting a player that a "Bonus" symbol was on a payline. :37-
The "fix" was to raise my chair... :97-
I was hearing too much bass sounds coming from the coin tray speaker...
I would really like to equalize the sounds coming from my machine a bit better to suit my selective hearing.  :5-

Figure this one out, The other day I needed to check a WBA BV. Installed it in a known good machine and lost all audio. I played about 5 games and NO reel sounds, switched back to the original BV and sound came back.  :wtf1-

Well I'm not going to let this get the best of me so I reinstalled the suspect BV.  This time it worked fine, reel sounds worked as they should. AGAIN :wtf1-

So next time someone has audio problems, have them check their BV. ( sure right put that one on top of the list ) I have came to the conclusion that slot machines hate me !! But that's OK I don't like them either !!   :89- :89-

Now, if us other intellegent species just knew what a WBA BV was and the component location?? PP (possible picture) TY (thank you)

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=36.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=36.0)

Very unusual sound problem indeed Buzz...
How it was related to the WBA installation is beyond me.

The only thing I can think of is that you pinched a tray speaker wire
as they sometimes run down on the right side of the machine?
For the most part, I've seen the tray speaker wires run down on the left.
Re-installing the bill acceptor back again the second time missed the wire?
I don't know... :128-
Just a fluke intermittent amp/speaker connection jarred by opening/closing of the door perhaps...?

I hereby vote myself, Knucklehead of the day,, . .too much Easter chocolate. . .

I just sent my MM Lite board back asking that it be replaced with the REV. B board. I was understood this was the fix. S2000 machine.
Anyone for the real fix for the problem ?  Would like to get this fixed one way or the other.
Thanks guys

Revision B doesn't refer to a multimedia board, it refers to a 504 B MPU board. Static in the speakers is best resolved with resistors in line on each of the 6 speaker wires

 :212- COWBOY IS CORRECT.
FORD

I just messed up then,...I thought there was a post a while back that said the fix for the hum/buzz was a "REV B" on the Multimedia Lite ll board and that it was fixed internally by IGT.
Please advise, as if so, I made a mistake.
And, thanks again.

As cowboygames just said, the "B" revision that fixed some of the sound issues was on the main MPU board, not the MML II board. If you don't have one, you'll want a 504 rev. B MPU board for your machine.

Can you post a pic of sticker location? My motherboard is a REV A,...Stepper controller board is a REV A p/n 75510502

It's been a while but as I recall it was one resistors per speaker and it went in the white wire that has a color tracer. Started out using 47 ohm resistors but they cut the volume so low I ended up using 22 ohm. They seemed to cure the noise problem and still have decent volume.

I don't think the motherboard had anything to do with it. There are a bunch of threads on this problem.

I might add that the amplifier boards are not all exactly giving out the same outputs either.
I have two of them and both give out varying degrees of sound.
You have to play around with different resistors to get your sound correct on the white wires -
including the tray speaker wire, to get the cleaner, bassy/treble sound.
 
I got mine sounding okay with 47ohm's on the topbox speakers and a 10ohm on the tray speaker but...
I'm hard of hearing so don't believe a word I'm saying...  :72-


The best way to achieve better sound is to wire in an audio equalizer and adjust to taste...
it's a little overboard though....better off just getting a 504 B REV. MPU board.... :97-

For kicks, I wired in a jack to the amp board and plugged in a good set of headphones.
Sounds beautiful!  :89-
I'm thinking of expanding this idea to the back of my chair headrest -
like the way they do it in the casinos via a wireless Nady system.... :96-

I can't think of any better way to get the full surround sound effect!

Buzz, I had the best luck with 10ohm resistors on each lead. If the noise is coming through the ground then it needs to be protected also. The thought here being it could an AC ripple or even DC noise back feeding through that way. Though I'd lean more towards DC noise based on how it acts. Same cure either way unless a guy put filter caps on the feed from the MPU, which might could work, haven't tried it

I had the best luck with 504B or 1270 Enhanced MPU

I put 504B in all of my games.

You guys are right, 504B or 1270 are the best options, resistors are much more cost effective is the only argument here

Yaaa It's a proven fact you win more often with 504 boards !!

OK kids, . .me here is setting off on a journey to fix this once and for all. Finding the source of the signal, where and how it is transfering, and the ultimate fix. Stay tuned..."The Fix" . . .soon..waiting to get my MMLite ll back..  (putting on hunting gear) . . .on a mission..

You're looking in the right place -- you have a 502 rev. A board (the last three numbers plus the revision letter).

In the interest of clarity, that's your MPU board.  The "motherboard" is a fixed board in the back of the machine that the MPU board plugs into.  While we know what you're talking about here, it's generally good practice to use the correct terms when describing problems with your machine in the future to avoid any confusion.  :89-   :214-

10-4. I have all my docs in order now. Manuals, wiring diagrams, and schematics.  I am missing one, the power supply schematic, is there such a thing or did I overlook it ?
I'm almost going to borrow a nice osciliscope and with some help one reading the power supply schematic, and me probing with the scope, going to track down the source of the audio crossover that is causing the hum/buzz.
It can be done. We have the technology.

The power supplies are made by two or more vendors.
I can not remember if IGT released any schematics for all of them or not.

Note: the static, buzz, or hum is not from the power supply itself.
If it was my 504B or Enhanced (1270) MPU would not fix it

The 50x series of MPU has 2 separate 5V supply sections on it.
They are wired in parallel and both have to function for the board to work.
I cant remember if the 1270 has two as well or not.

It has to do with how the audio traces pick up noise from another trace that runs near them.
Think about how close ASUS, Gigabyte and others place the HD Audio chip and amp to the rear audio jacks and front audio header on PC motherboards

Another Option:  Has anyone ever inspected the Rev A and Rev B boards and done a comparison and see which component was changed/modified ? I wouldn't think IGT would have paid to re-engineer the complete board. I guess doing an overlay of schematics/ diagrams would pinpoint the change pretty quick.
If all else fails the 47 resistors will have to work. 47K ohm x 1/2W x ?% (or post complete resistor spec)
Thank you in advance

You need to go back through and reread the responses to this post. It's 10-47 ohm resistors across each of the six wires going to the 3 speakers. Half watt is sufficient

Still haven't got my board back from RM Slots . . .going on 3 weeks....We'll send it. . .we'll send it. . ."dysfunctional" . . .

I was working on a DD delux with 502 board backlit reels and dsv 42 and getting the loud hum from both speakers and I tried unplugging the backlit controller as someone else had suggested and the hum went away. Then just for the hell of it I unplugged each reel and as I did the hum gradually decreased so then I decieded to take out the upper and lower buls from each reel since they aren't really being used anyway and there is still a little bit of a hum but it is drasticly reduced.