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Ok guys, what's the verdict on this one?

My S2000 is set up for multi denom.  All of my kits work fine in it.  A trend that I've noticed though is that 3CM Crystal Sevens does not set up correctly if it's cleared and keyed after I have had 3CM Double Diamond Deluxe installed.  If I have DDdlx installled and then decide to switch to any other game, the setup of any other game is fine.  The problem is only with Crystal Sevens.  I went through the clear/key procedure 4 times with Crystal Sevens and everything goes during the process until the last stage when the game is booting up to first time setup where I setup Accounting Denom, Coin Denom, Game Setup, etc.  I can only setup single denom.  Puzzled, I thought maybe I had a defective C7 base chip, so I decided to try running through the key/clear procedure with my 2CM Mummy base chip. 

Low and behold, that worked fine and I could set up everything fine.  I then went back to my 3CM Crystal Sevens game, and now it set up fine...multidenom and everything.  Whatever 3CM DDdlx is laying down for table structure during the installation, following that game with a 3CM Crystal Sevens game ain't gonna happen.  It's almost as if a completely different game has to lay down a different format that allows 3CM Crystal Sevens to get installed correctly...like in my circumstance with The Mummy.  But why?  Shouldn't a clear procedure (and yes I ran the clear process 4 times) take care of wiping the data, file system, etc?  All chips are current, but my board is a 504a.

Just thought I'd throw a unique scenario at you guys to see what you thought.

Thanks,
Jason

When doing this game change...are you using the same MPU with the same version chip and just swapping SB's and SG's
Or are you swapping MPU's with different chips altogether?

I'm sure you know by now that the version chip determines whether or not you'll have multi-denom capabilities...

Same MPU.  The only things that ever gets changed with a game change are the base chip and the DSV SIMM.  I also use the same 97 clear and 31 key chips with every game.

       JEEEEEES      JASON . Your going to wear  out  the sockets were the Sb chip are installed . As many games and reels you have I would of thought you would have as many mpu boards in trays .  :103-

That is strange, I do not have a Crystal 7s Base chip to test.

But normally the base chip does not affect any of the accounting or other config unless you are changing the Version chip, which will mess it up.

Since going the 363 and 598, I have not had to do a key or clear when game changing.
My

I am going to say this for the S2000 crowd on here

HIDE THOSE CLEAR CHIPS SO YOU CAN NOT FIND THEM.

I have changed games a over 50 times and hae only used my clear chip about 4 times.
and 2 of those in same day I goofed setting the accounting denom.

YoEddy! If you're going to keep on changing out chips on that MPU - I strongly, strongly suggest that you install a set of low-profile ZIF ( Zero Insertion Finanigans) sockets or the tab inside one of the socket holes will come out.
At that point, the MPU will have to either be replaced or undergo intensive surgery (board level repairs) to the socket.

Click on photo to enlarge if so desired...>>>

I've always wondered what IGT's recommendation is with this.  If a game theme is to be changed out, would they suggest just swapping out the base chip, opening the door when the "Call Attendant" message comes up, clearing the RAM error by holding the test button for 2-3 seconds, and then readjusting any settings within the test menu as appropriate?  Or would they recommend a clear/key with a game change?

My wife told me that she would rather have Triple Double Wild Cherry in while the family is here for Thanksgiving because it looks really nice in our room.  Anyway, I threw the chip in like you mentioned Foster and ran through the steps above.  It worked.  It seems like I had tried this in the past too, and if memory serves, it was with Crystal Sevens and it went south.  At any rate, this was a lot faster, and I would much rather take this route.  Maybe I'll give it a try with a few games.  If it bombs, I'd clear/key anyway.

Thanks,
Jason

Bunker, I've given that some thought, but I've read posts from other members that these things don't work very well.  Maybe there is a specific brand or type that is recommended?  I think the plastic socket on mine is hammered.  I'd just pick up a 504B when this MPU goes T.U.

Jason

LOL ! That's a lot of ...uh...bunk!  :96-

What do you think chip programmer/readers use?

Well then what do you suggest my good man?

Jason

I've seen those little tabs come out...pisses me off because then I know that the only way to save the board is to cut out the legs and take out all the pins and re-solder an entire socket back in....believe me...that's not easy.
I'd really hate for that to happen to you just because you (as well as I ) LOVE changing out kits.
I got a few of these black ( sometimes blue) low-profile ZIFs and now I have absolutely no worries about pulling out a socket tab anymore!

On the other hand, they're not cheap.
You can get them at Mouser.com or Jameco.com...price them out and see who has the best deal.
Sometimes you can get them cheap on fleabay as well.
Totally avoid the big green bastards!
Those are too, too big and you end up folding over resistors and tabs and other things just to get them in.

Finally, if you do decide to get some ZIFs, upon installing them for the first time...make sure they will seat down into the board sockets good once...a "dry run" so to speak.
When you are sure that they will work and seat well, that's when you apply a very thin layer of Goop around the entire edge and press the ZIF down good and hold for like 30 seconds to set.
It will never come out like the big fugly green blocks.

The Goop works well because should you ever want to move the ZIFs to another MPU later on, all you do is take an Exacto knife and cut on the seam to remove - using crazy glue or something like that bonds TOO good and the ZIF is forever melded to that MPU.
The Goop is more like the silicone you would use on the rim of a bathroom sink or tub/shower.