New Life Games Tech Forums

Hello all,

I am new here and have tried many of the recommendations found in other posts.  Still not working so here goes:

Double Diamond Deluxe IGT S+ machine with cc 16 c coin mech (no bills)

Coins go to Hopper without registering.

I cleaned the optics and adjusted the potentiometer (but coin was never rejected to tray).  Performed system self test function and shows optics working.

LED on cc is on when door is closed.

Not sure where to go from here?

Thanks in advance for taking time to look at this.

John

Wiggle the two gray wires on top of the coin comparator,
close the door, and try some coins.
Could be an oxidized pin.
If that doesn't work, remove the coin comparator, turn it around
and see if the rake is wedged open with something.
It should move freely.
Also, change the comparator coin with a new one similar to the ones you're using.

Basic adjustment for the sensitivity dial on the CC is :
Turn dial counter clock-wise fully to the left until stop.
Turn it clock-wise about a 1/4 turn.

No luck with that.  They continue to drop to the hopper.

In your top photo, the coin mech harness is not plugged into the door harness.
Is it still that way?

Probably not now...
anyways, it sounds like you coin-in optic board under the CC are not registering credits to the machine.

Two things can cause this:

1] There's a black plastic coin guide sandwiched between the two boards.
Sometimes these don't have the plastic guide inside in the middle because the machine used large tokens at the casino before it was taken out.
Or sometimes they break off.
Without the piece of guide in it, the quarters slip by the three holes in the plastic insert and miss the optics - thereby not registering any credits.
You need to remove the CC and stick a piece of cardboard straight down that slot in between the coin-in optic boards that is about 1 inch wide.
If the cardboard does not go down and through, then you have the guide.
If the cardboard goes through, you have the wrong insert for quarters and need to get a new one or use larger tokens as your machine may be already set for it.


Below is a "Coin Decoder" as Suzo-Happs Controls or IGT calls them...sized for quarters.
I borrowed this photo from Yoeddy's post a while back..
I lost my photos... :37- :8-

Click on any photo to enlarge if need be...>>>

the other thing that can cause this:
2] The coin-in optic boards might be at the end of their life.
You can extend the life of these boards (for home use only) by cutting off the diode located at the Q2 position on the optic board.

There are ways to run tests for all of which I've mentioned above to trouble shoot your coin-in optics and coin acceptance.
This is enough for now to try.

see 1st though, if you have the correct coin guide sized for quarters - if that's what you're using.

Not directly related to the problem, but one quick test to see if the rake is working or has been tied back is to remove the sample coin and see if the coin drops to the tray.

I agree with bunker that it may not have the right insert. Did the machine ever work?

Aslo, it may just be the picture, but the optics look crooked or something. Are the coins actually dropping through it?

You see that too?!
I thought it was my screen or something... :72-
Yeah...somethings NOT lined up right...could be obstructing the solenoid gate cam.

Rake is free.  Nothing binding there.  I removed all and re aligned the optics panel.  I have the quarter guide, but my board looks different.  Not sure that I have the same diode.  Everything is hooked up for operation, so if you see anything unplugged, it is because I don't know where it goes....  Thanks for your time and expertise.

John

Photo of Optic board

Just curious, you said the CC LED was on when the door was closed. How did you check it? I ask because I recall another recent thread where there was an issue with some game chips doing something strange when using a door bypass. Also did the game ever work? If so, did something change before it quit?

The Q2 is on the other side of your photo of your optic board.
Two screws removed... will reveal that.

The LED light on the CC is indeed "On" when then door is closed.
You can view it through the door lock hole if there's no lock installed.
or you can view it by pulling out the CC through the belly door.

I quote from Jim on a thread back in July '09 on testing coin-in optics...>>>

...you can test these in the machine using the first three tests  of the inputs test.  Reassemble the optic using the metal frame along with a black coin in optic guide. then cut a piece of cardboard about 1/4 inch by six inches. when you call up that test  10-0   when you pass the cardboard thru the optic you should see the 0 change to a 1 telling you that optic is good, advance to 11-0  do the same and also press the little button down in the lower left corner and it should produce the same results, finally advance to test 12-0  and run the cardboard thru again and see the 0 change to a 1. this will test all the optics and let you know if they are good.  

Right. I was just curious as to which method was used. Specifically if this machine has a bypass.

The only problem I ever had with the bypass cable was when I was trying to clear a [61] with certain chips.
I had to install working optics to get by it for that one time.
I think it was when we were playing with the Army chips?

I have owned this machine for about 8 years and has worked flawlessly until a few months ago when it stopped registering the coin in.  No real issue because I had over 2000 credits on it, until yesterday when I changed a setting during the self test procedure.  No more credits, so machine is "dead in the water". 

I pulled the tray and sent the cc through the belly to see the led.

Input test 10-1 - I swear that this tested fine yesterday.  Today, I am not seeing a change to 0.  This is a door closed test isn't it?  Proper guidance here would be appreciated.

Input test 11-1 - 1 changes to a 0 when cardboard is passed through,  Same for test 12-1

No.
The door needs to be open to run the coin-in tests.
What SP chip is installed?

What did you change? Do you still have the credits?

If you don't (or even if you do) you might try pulling the CMOS chip for a few seconds. You will get a 61, but it will reload data from the eeprom in the off chance that soemthing got screwed up in the CMOS. Plus it will check your door optics as they will need to be working to clear the 61.

I changed values in test 7 & 8.  When I played my credits and had first win, payout went fast (but no coins dumped) and all credits were gone  :37-

next problem - I don't have (actually cant find) the key to get to the processor board.  I will work on punching the lock next.

That's strange...you can't change the settings in the options when you have credits on the machine...
Normally, the "Credits" window display must be zeroed out in order to make changes.

Leave it to me to find a way!

I am trying to re-enact your problem with mine.
I will try to change options 7 & 8 (BTW which are for the coin limits) with credits on my meter.
Offhand, I do not think I'll succeed.

Again, what SP chip do you have on the MPU...?
you can check by hitting the little white test button 9 times to bring up the alternating SS and SP chip numbers
in the Credits display window.

ADD>>> I just tried to change the settings with 3 credits on my display.
I cannot change anything.
I made a short video clip...
my battery died so it will be a few minutes before I get it up on here.
Just re-charging the battery enough to save it.

It is an SP-872  

Yes, I was changing the coin limits so that I could reconnect my payout button.  Too many times people come into the house and "accidentally" push the cash out to "see what happens".  I probably screwed that up too!  

I can't see anything on your machine from my house either...I have no idea what you mean by this...


You're the 1st slot homeowner I've heard who has a lock on the MPU cage... :72-
Maybe you ought to bust that lock on the MPU...it's made for casinos really.
After the Ron Harris affair, everybody started putting locks and motion sensors on these cages...
paranoid bunch of casino owners... :97-

When you get in, see if you can report back what SP chip is installed in the "Game Prom" socket.

Here's the short video I was making for you when the battery died on me...>>>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-sejvxm7IZo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-sejvxm7IZo)

Thanks for the video.  That is the way it is supposed to work.  What can I say.  I changed them by going thru the same process you did when you played off your 3 credits. 

Lock problem solved.  No lock anymore.  cmos removed and reinstalled.  How do I clear the 61?  I already tried holding in the self test button.

Pressing the white test button 3 seconds is all that's needed to get to [61-1]
At that point, you close the door then turn the reset key once.

Since you've already tried that...install a clear chip in the place of the SP chip.
The settings are still on the chip on the motherboard at the moment.
You have a SET chip ready to re-enable the DBV?

BTW what were you trying to change originally?
The hopper limits or the... nevermind....I still don't know what SP you have so I cannot help much further.

Ah, turn the reset...... that was what I was missing.  All clear now.  Coins still dropping to hopper and not registering....

clear chip and SET chip, DBV - you have now officially gone "over my head" or should I say past my level of in- expertice!

I slipped the SP in above.  It is a 872

okay...SP872...
be right back

Page <7> is for the hopper & bill acceptor limits while page <8> is for the is for the "Partial Pay Selection" for your SP chip.
Go back and set page <7> to "1000" on the Winner Paid" window
and set page <8> to "0000".

Watch the "Coins Played" window as you are hitting the little white test button.
This won't fix the reason why your coins are dropping to the hopper but at least you'll have these set correctly.

I think you need to try the cardboard trick with the coin-in optics input tests again to make sure the coin-in optic boards are working or not (re-read Reply #10) ...or cut off the Q2 chip.
The coin-in optics boards control the signals of sending credits to the machine.

Now you've got me thinking....the machine could be registering the credits as it's throwing everything into the hopper.
That means the rake is opening and allowing the coins to be routed to the hopper.
Either that or the rake is stuck open?
I wonder if there's something loose on the harness going from the coin mech door harness back to the MPU?
It almost sounds like you're not getting credits registered back out to the display either way?
Does the machine play if you place a bet on the "Bet One" button and hit the "Spin" button?

Can you talk me through the correct test procedure for the 10 optics test?  The screen shows 10-1 after getting to that test.  I remove the top section of the CC (but don't disconnect) and slide the cardboard down between the optics.  No change to 0.  Perform the same test for 11 and 12 and my 1 changes to 0.  

Am I doing the 10 test the right way?

It use to play, when I had the credits.  That is how we used it the last 3 months.  The rake is moving pretty free.  Doesn't appear to be jammed.

Do you have a BV on this machine? If so, does it work with bills? Just want to rule out some other weird problem with the actual operation of the machine.

My screen shows [10-1] as well, but I can't get it to do anything
and I have brand new coin-in optics installed on my S+.
However, I turned the reset key once to get to [11-1] and when putting a piece of cardboard in through in between the coin-in optics, I get it to flip to [11-0]....same for input test [12-1].
Video clip processing/uploading as we speak...>>>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLcTtwc3M6k

Okay,
On a PSR for SP 968, it tells me that input [10] is for "Coin-in A"
input [11] is for "Coin in B"
and input test [12] is for "Coin in C".

Since these are "ABC" coin-in optic boards (meaning 3 pairs of optical eyes - emitters and receiver optics),
you'd think that with a brand new coin-in optics boards -
I would get the [10-1] to switch to [10-0] after inserting a piece of cardboard through it.
Well, I don't and I am slightly flabbergasted... :72-

I can get the "B" and "C" optic to switch with a piece of cardboard from a one to a zero
but I cannot understand why the "A" optic won't switch?
Anyone else having this problem?

I'm swapping out optics right now with another set... :79-

if you can put a credit on the machine by pressing the white test button on the optics board and the machine operates as it should, then remove Q-4 as pictured in repy #8 on your optic board and your machine will be back to normal.

Jim

Just off the phone with the guy who sold me the machine.  He suggest it it an adjustment problem on my CC.  My 11 and 12 test the same as yours in the video.  He also asked me to push the small button on the bottom left of the optics board.  That registers coin in, I can then hit the spin button and the machine works.  My book says the 10 -1 test "Activated ONLY if the coin comparitor accepts coins in door close game mode: refer to Coin B input test.

I have adjusted the cc screw back and forth and can only get coins to either reject to bin, or accept and go to hopper.  Either way, doesn't register coin played.

FWIW, I just tried it with my SP1048 and all three tests worked. I used a piece of cardboard the same width as the optics opening so I did not have to wiggle it around.

Optics board is off and going next door to have my tech neighbor cut out the Q4.  Be back soon with the results....... (fingers crossed)

Hmmm... How can you run the test if the door is closed?  :103-

You cannot run the input tests with the door closed... :72-
(unless you cut a wire going to the door optics ...?!?! )

While you were gone....I swapped coin-in optics with another one I had.
Apparently the 1st one had either a burned emitter or receiver "A"optic.
The [10-1] coin-in input test works fine for this set.
I wanted to try a narrow piece of cardboard to differentiate between the 3 sets of optical eyes in the slot just for the video clip.
I prefer using the wider piece of cardboard like Poppo did too.

However, in the same swath - I've proven that the machine only needs two working optics
to register coins going through them because my 1st coin-in optics boards work fine in the S+...
It may even get away with only  single pair of optics working too,
but it would not be able to read a stringed coin...>>>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFb4E7g-Roc (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFb4E7g-Roc)

Still here.  He wasn't home.  But after watching the last video, I plugged back in the disassembled optics and ran thru the test putting the optics in line and out of line.  2&3 work just fine as values change.  For optics 1, the value is at 1 (closed) even when I have the boards apart.  So, just confirming the Q4 is still something that I should do?

At this point...yes.
Would you like me to make a video of how to take the IC component off?
You have a sharp pointed knife like an Exacto hobby knife or something similar?
I have several versions of the coin-in optic boards.
If you can show me a clear picture of yours from both sides - I will show you how to remove the component.
Or at least give me the REV. number and year.

Did you try to press the little button the coin-in optics board (with the door open)
and see if it will register a credit to the game?

ADD>> Jim mentioned that you have the version with the Q4 component.
Is this it?

Click on photo to enlarge..>>>

Here is a photo of the diode I think that you want me to remove.  I did press the button and it does register a coin in and allows me to spin.

two more of both sides

Just clip it off.

That's it.
It is held there by 3 tiny little solder points.
Get something pointy and bust the diode off the board.
Re-install into the machine and you should be good to go! >>>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yY-2ZFS7q_c

 :3-  She Works!!!!!   :131- :131-  Very nicely done on the video btw.

Now, how should I set my payouts so that is correct?  Should I just leave the cash out button disconnected to avoid my previous stated problem with guests "accidentally" hitting the button and removing all credits?

Machine doesn't get used much, but I guess that I should be looking to have a spare optics board, or do you recommend getting the entire cc unit so I have both sides of it?

I've heard of guys with kids leaving that Cashout switch undone under the deck. :96-
Just pull off the ground wire connector to it.
It will be the doubled-up green wires to the lowest/bottom tab under the switch.

Tell you what...you deserve a PSR sheet for your SP872 chip...for putting up with all my questions...  :97-

Remember... the more you tell and show us - the more we can help you.  :89-

I've attached the PSR for you below this post...>>>

Thank you so much!!!!  You have been very kind and helpful. 

haha! I can nasty and downright useless too... :97-

I'm glad your machine is working again.  :89-