New Life Games Tech Forums

I take it a set 15 or set 90 for the S+ will not work in the PE+

So what set chip do I need?
Do I need a clear also?

The battery was removed. When replaced with a new battery the machine boots to a orange screen the has the CMOS error and the door open.
I tried the white test button, get the ding. Close the door, turn the key and nothing.
I do know that the key switch and door optics are good.

Bottom candle has fast flash, top candle has slow flash

I've never needed to clear my PE+ machines, ever.  That said, I know of one machine that had to be cleared once, so it can happen, I suppose.

Someone once told me that there was a SET chip that could be used on both the S+ and PE+, but I've never seen it, and knowing what specific coding would have to be on it for the PE+, I kinda doubt it.

As seen in this thread (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=10093.0), a SET038 is one option for a PE+.  I know there are others as well, although I don't know their numbers off the top of my head.

A SET chip won't resolve your current issue, however -- it will just let you enable the bill validator.  Let's address your current scenario:

I know you said that the keyswitch and door optics are good, but if they were all working properly (and the machine was acknowledging as such), you should have a working game right now.

Does the "Door Open" message go away after you close the door?  That message should toggle on and off as you open and close the door with the current state of your machine.  In other words, as you were doing, with the door open press and hold the white test button until you get a ding, close the door, look for the "Door Open" message to vanish, then turn the jackpot reset key.  You may have to do that process of opening the door, pressing the button, closing the door, and turning the key a couple of times.

Is the CMOS ERROR message changing after you turn the key?  Does it go away and then come back, or does it just sit there?

I'm NOT kidding you guys...
Some body else had the "orange screen" problem last week somewhere.
I cannot recall if it was an I-game, reel touch, or a Vision LCD computer.
I just know it WASN'T a PE+...sorry

OK, Here's the rest of the story.
I bought the machine not working. Plugged it in and discovered that the chassis was bad. Replaced the chassis with a brand new 1492. The machine booted and came right up. Everything worked except the bill validator. Now I had removed a ton of wiring from the machine for accounting and progressive stuff, even old wall  warts. One of the cash can switches had already been bypassed and the other was used for in-house security. I screwed around all night last night trying to get the bill validator to work. It was activated in the settings but would not fully cycle. The head worked great on the test bench and I did a full calibration, but still no good. I replaced with known good parts the DBV 200 23/24 the power supply, the cash can, the entire metal can with the optics, the transport.... everything. Still a no go. THEN, all went to hell. The monitor stop working and would only illuminate a white/yellow back ground through the screen burn.  :37-    
I had spare MPU's so I grabbed a spare. swapped chips including the color prom and the battery. Installed the new CPU and it did the same thing. I was so %#@!&* I just went to  :294-
Today at work, I kept thinking what the hell could have taken a $hit. I know the machine will play without the monitor like it did when I got it, so maybe something on the monitor was back-feeding through the MPU to keep it from booting? I got home and started screwing around with it again and found a bad cap on one of the fuses. Well that did the trick. The machine booted up but now goes to the orange screen with the CALL ATTENDANT message. Open the door and it now shows CALL ATTENDANT, DOOR OPEN and CMOS DATA. I push the white test button for 3 seconds and the machine dings. close the door and turn the key and nada, nothing. Just the orange screen with the same message.
Now IF I had just picked up a new battery when I swapped boards last night I would be up and running. But NOOOOO, I had to unsolder the battery and install it in the other board.

So as Paul Harvey would have said, "so now, that's the rest of the story"

You need a Set038

And you have it ! :88-

Can you answer this part:


...and, are you positive that the keyswitch is working correctly?  I would test it with a multi-meter, and also make sure that the two leads plugged into it are making a good connection.

If you still have no love, for kicks can you switch back to the first MPU board and see if that makes any difference?

With the keychip, does the machine respond to the jackpot reset key?

If not, then I suppose it wouldn't hurt to try a clear chip.  I'll see if I can find out what number that clear chip is.

No the door open does not clear after the door is closed.
I can boot the machine with the door closed and just get the CALL ATTENDANT message. Then turn the jackpot key and get the main accounting page (so yes the key switch works) All the buttons light up to make page selections, however when any button is pushed it returns to the CALL ATTENDANT message.
Then if I open the door, the door open message appears, so I know the optics are good.
I have not tried the SET chip, but will tomorrow.
I had a little accident at work today, so No slot stuff tonight.
I'll keep you posted after I try the SET chip.

Thanks everyone and stay tuned.

The Door Open message should go away when the door is closed.  Based on what you've said, it does look like the optics are working (since the message doesn't appear until you open the door), but since the message isn't going away after you close the door, there's a problem somewhere, my guess is with the MPU board.  I'd consider trying the original MPU board to see if you get different results.

Still not sure why it locked up, but the set 038 did clean it up.

Thanks everyone, now I still have the DBV issue to fix.

That's great news!  Good luck with the validator.

OK, Now everything is good !!!!!
 :244- :244- :3-

I now have a working 5 game PE+
It's dirty and needS to be tore down, cleaned and re-assembled. Didn't want to do that process until I had it mechanically functional.
Of all the machines I've purchased this one is the filthiest.

All post pictures when completed

What did you do to fix your bill validator (ie. why wasn't it working even though it was enabled)?

Congrats on getting it working!  I love the PE+ platform and machines.

oh Ya, Thanks for asking. I was so excited that I finally got it working, I forgot to post the fix.
It was the transport. Now here's the strange thing.
I took a working transport for one of my S+ machines and installed it in the PE+ and the PE+ works fine.
I took the non working transport from the PE+ and put it in the S+ and it also works? :103-

Don't know why one transport would not work in the PE+ but works in the S+

That was because you did an old slot trick -
The "Switcheroo" ...  no one knows why it works but sometimes it does!  :72-

Just kidding...you'd be amazed at how many times all I had to do
was unplug a Molex connector, plug it back together with a little wiggle
and things worked again.
I'm sure it has to do with oxidization of the receptor pins
and wiggling/replugging gives one a fresh contact.
My old '79 pinball machine taught me that as well as a few years
on the floor working with S+'s.

Robert

the transport is the same for either a S+ or a PE+  the  only part that is a problem with the transport is the plug that goes from the transport to the head,  they have a fair amount of cold solder joints that would cause the problem.

as long as switch #10 on the head is the same then it wouldn't make any difference. 

there is another set chip that can be used with a PE+   SET 004 

Jim               

Thanks Jim,
Ya it was just kind strange that the transport would work in one machine and not the other.  :103-

Sometimes it's best not to ask why.
 :270- :235- :233- :292- :229-