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This probably been discussed before, but here is my version. While shopping for some LED Christmas tree lights (got tired of the old style burning out), I came across some globe style bulbs. They seemed like they might make for a good back-light since they would disperse the light better. So I started by cutting out a piece of white foam board to not only hold the bulbs but to reflect the light better. I spaced the holes (the holes are just big enough for the bulb socket) so that I could fit all 50 LEDs. They are not perfectly spaced, but it doesn't really matter that much. Next I mounted the bulbs (had to pull LED out, insert socket though hole and reinsert LED).

The first picture on the left shows the LEDs installed in the topper with power off. The right side shows them lit (which messed with my camera exposure, but you get the idea). The second picture, the left side shows the topper with the fluorescent lamp. The right shows it with the LEDs. Not exactly the same lighting conditions, but again, you get the idea. The topper is not quite as bright as with the fluorescent, but is still pretty bright and it generates no heat and uses next to no power. This was a 50 LED string, so using 2 strings could probably brighten it up more. But for my room, it's fine.

BTW, this topper originally had a 25V ballast, but I had replaced it with a 120v one from a S+ prior to this So I already had 110v in the topper. Since all I had to do was take out the flourecent bulb and tap into the 120v, the whole project only took about 45 minutes.

Also these LED Christmas lights were just under $10. Might be able to find some on the clearance shelves now.

Click on pictures to enlarge.

Not topper related, but I did the same thing with another custom sign that had a fluorescent back-light bulb in it.

Click on picture to enlarge.

Nice, Poppo.  That's a great idea for the topper, too, instead of having to find 25vdc on machines (like an S+) that don't have them.  :244-

K+ to you.

One more, also not topper related. I got this sign for my MAME table. It had a mini blue fluorescent bulb in it. The top would get pretty hot after a while. I found a pair of blue LED 'light bars' at Walmart in the automotive dept. I had to cut one of them down, but they slid right in where the lamp was. I already had 12vdc in the cabinet for some other stuff, so this one only took about 30 minutes.

My game room gets way too warm in the summer and all of these LED conversions will help. I may try something like I did in the previous pictures to light up my slot glass instead of using those cold cathode tubes that some people have tried. I think that using multiple LEDS like those globe ones, spread out would give a more even light dispersal.

 :244- :244- :244- :244- :244- :244- :244-
 :3- :3- :3- :3- :3- :3-

Really Really NICE!!!!

I love it - You will save some $$ too!

Really nice stuff Poppo!  :3-
I like these all very much!  :89-

Now, what I envy most is that you actually have your pinball machine IN the house to play!
Mine is still out in the barn!  :8-

Ok, here is V2.0 of my topper LED mod. I picked up one of those 'rolls' of LEDs for about $15.00. The roll has 600 LEDs and you can cut the strip every 3 LEDs (and splice them together as there are solder pads where you cut it). So using 225 of the LEDs, I arranged them as shown. These are definitely as bright as a fluorescent.  Oh, they are 12VDC and this draws about 1.3 amps (at 12V).

I think theses would work well for the belly glass since you can space them for a more uniform light, vice the single center fluorescent.

 :244- Great Job Poppo!  :244-  Did you happen to take a pic of the back of the board??  :103-
I have been considering changing my toppers over to some kind of LED as well. 

No, but here you can see how I just daisy-chained the rows (right side up to the next row, left side of that row up to the next, etc.). I did not have to run the wires thought the foam board, I just did it because it looked 'neater'. Note: The tie strap holds the foam board to the fluorescent bracket. You can also see the solder pads where you can cut the strip every 3 LEDs.

Click to enlarge.

WOW, where did you find that deal?
I bought some on flea-bay  :116- for almost twice that. :279-
Still waiting for them to arrive on the slow boat from Hong Kong. I hope mine look as good as your.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110836488611?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/110836488611?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)

You can watch the auctions:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110845558125 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/110845558125)

or just pay $19.95 (or make an offer)  from the US with free shipping (600 LEDs)  :89- This is the guy I got mine from.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/270915743429 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/270915743429)

I chose the 'warm' ones because the other ones are too 'blue'.
And sadly, the link you provided is only for 300 LEDs.

Poppo,
Ya, I saw that....
I bought mine to illuminate the inside of a commercial channel letter sign.
I bought the weatherproof, super bright led's figuring I would need them as it's replacing neon tubing.
When the guys removed the sign from the building they popped the neon tube.  :58- :58- :58- idiots......

My sign is a little bigger than a topper and it's a shark that's smoking a cigar, wearing a derby hat. Should look cool. I'll post pictures if that boat  :104- ever makes it across the pond.

I also noticed that the 600 leds are 48watts and the ones I bought are 72W (6 amps)

Ahh, it looks like the ones you got are bigger/brighter.

I like the way those are on a "tape"...a lot easier than trying to solder every single SMD LED !!!
It may solve my ideas of lighting up the lower half of the reel baskets
and some areas of certain reel glasses that really should have some illumination behind them.

They have double sided tape on the back of them, (that is very sticky) so it's easy to stick them to something.

Thanks Poppo!
I have question...while those are on a tape and are flexible...can they be bent to a fairly tight 90 degree horizontal radius
or would it be better to cut and solder a couple of short leads for the bend?
I see that you have them as pretty much straight forward lines for your topper backlit application.

I would like the edges of my cabinet to light up when I get a winner.
It would be controlled via the hand-pay bell header set to throw out the bell signal on every win?
The idea is from a Bally I've seen in casinos lately.
It sort of looks like red 1/2" or 3/4"Pex plumbing tube cut in half
and installed on the edges of the cabinet trim.
I imagine you could run some rows of tape SMD LED  inside
and let the whole sucker light up with a LED chaser when you get a winner?
It also looks like the lights that surround the Vision and Reel Touch LCD's.

It would be best to cut them as they won't make 90 degree bends. However, perhaps if one were to put two strips back to back, they could be looped around.

Ahh! okay...I'll place an order for some today then...Thanks for your help!  :3-
And kudos + on the neat lighting mod for the topper!  :89-

I am going to the Texas Pinball Festival tomorrow, and they usually have several large LED dealers there,
maybe I can find something similar!   :89-

I would be curious if you see any #44 or #47 lamp replacement LEDs that actually look good.