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working on a Gamemaker upright - have no lights (have flou.) - no button lights (buttons work) and no general illum.  also screen colors are terrible - I changed background colors and still not pretty. 

I'm pretty sure that the  lights are 7.5 vac,  that includes the tower lamps as well.   That voltage comes from the main transformer, through the power supply, through the fuse assembly and then out to all the areas via the backplane.  The processor then provides a ground to lite the individual lamps. 



Jim

 
i traced the wire back to the backplane but could not find info on the fuse/transformer in any of the wire diagrams in the GAMEMAKER manual.  which fuse would it be as they are not POPPED and getting to the back of them is not easy.  thanks



Jim
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Your color problem appears to be in the blue gun of the tube. Do they provide individual manual RGB controls on the board or is it done through the on screen menus? If you have the controls I would try some adjustments and maybe turn the brightness up a touch using the controls on the focus block on or next to the flyback transformer. Ultimately you may have age related carbon buildup on the guns in the CRT that no amount of adjusting will clear up, in which case you'd have to have the tube cleaned with a rejuvenator or replace it with a new tube.

i have had this happen before its the breaker below the on off switch, you have one of them you need to reset

i tried the breakers do no avail - will have to take the panel off and check each breaker to see if one is not working -  as for the monitor - I tried all the adjustments at the front of the monitor and the program settings -  will have to make up a jumper cable so I can play with the monitor settings on the chassis. 

from what I could make out I THINK the wiring for the Pro and the Gamemaker are the same up to the power supply, after that the power does go back to the backplane, on the pro it goes to J-12, on the gamemaker it goes to a header # 50???.

in any case,7vac is the white wires out of the transformer windings pins 8/9, out of that plug they become a yellow/green (hot) and a gray/blue (ground). the gray/blue goes to the backplane via power supply plugs. the yellow/ green goes to the plug for the fuse block, pin 7 into the fuse breaker #1-5A  out pin 8 as a blue wire to the back plane via the power supply plugs.

hope this helps.

Jim   

bad circuit breaker!!!!!!!    one down ONE (monitor) to go - thank you all

working on the color problem - the brightness potentimeter is broken - so I cannot adjust the colors - there are no markings on the part - not sure how to add a picture - anyone?  thanks

Where on the chassis is the control located? In most cases it will be mounted to or part of the focus block assembly on the side of the flyback transformer. From your earlier pics, barring a camera problem, it appears you have a lot of blue in the display with a dim picture being a minor additional issue. If you have controls for it, I would try turning the blue gain down and the contrast up a bit.

the controls I refer to are mounted on the top of the monitor - if you look at my top picture you will see the panel with the potent. the one for brightness is broken and now I can't get the picture to stay on.  there are numerous controls on the neck board but I do not have a jumper so I can't get to them (24 pin molex - which I do not have - so I can't make one up).   the 6 potent. on the panel are vert vsize hsize   horiz  brite cont  with the brite being broken.   

Ok, I see what you mean. The controls on the CRT board you probably woudn't want to mess with to much anyway. On those older chassis the controls I'm thinking of for color gain and whatnot are generally down on the main module, not the CRT board, but that's not a law, just common location. You'll need a schematic to find the value of that potentiameter for replacement. By "broke" do you mean it's falling apart? Or just that turning the knob doesn't change anything? If the latter, then you can try taking it apart and cleaning it with electronics cleaner or leave it where it's at and just spray some into the casing, work it back and forth, see if it's just dirty. Like on a volume control pot, this can be done with the machine on.

BROKE - post slides in and out and side to side - if i pull the post I get a picture but it won't hold. i got this monitor from Chad at monitor boss and can't seem to get ahold of him for his input.

Barry,   Ceronix 1492 monitors will work in those units,  the only difference is the solder pads have to be arranged for a Bally,  directions are in the back of the ceronix book.

if it is a ceronix perhaps you could use the controls from an IGT, they should be the same.

Jim

i have 6 or 7 ceronix chasis that I had fixed awhile back - but not sure if they will match up to the tube I have. 

finally found the rating on the broken POT  -  1K  - went to radio shack and they only have a 10k  - will that work?

No, adjustments will be to severe. You could maybe get away with a 1.5 to 2k, but even that would make for screwy adjustments. At least you know what it is now, maybe someone on the site will cough one up. Too bad RS ain't open today or I'd go see if I left on hiding in the service area 5 years ago. Probably...