New Life Games Tech Forums

Whew...been a rough year...and still alive....

I was hoping someone could help on a question about the 044 boards in a Gameking:

A friend has put a new Ceronix LCD (PVA) into his machine that has a new processor board, new
motherboard, and new gameboard with 6.2 on it...and wanted to know if anything needed to
be changed on the processor board?  In my own 3902 gameking, I needed a little chip to be
swapped out to make the color look right when I put a Ceronix in it. 

The reason I was curious was that the color on his new LCD is more subdued than mine...not as vibrant.
When the old Ceronix CRT was put back in and it had the same look....the color was paler and not as vibrant.
I put my LCD in his machine and it did the same thing....looked paler....not as vibrant.

Is this something to do with the processor board? Does anyone know what determines the quality of
the color output?

Sure do appreciate any thoughts on this....

Send Troy a email and ask him this question.   troy@ceronix.com  Troy is Cernoix's tec and a member on this site. I've had the pleasure of meeting him and is a all around nice Guy.

Will do....thanks for the help, Buzz.

Camino, I had something sort of similar happen on my GK when I swapped out different games.  When I switched out the games, the output was really odd and I couldn't restore the settings that it originally had.  I played with all of the settings on the LCD itself and finally I called up WG thinking it was a monitor problem, but it wasn't. 

With the door closed, they told me to turn the jackpot key to enter the settings and then I was instructed to go into the game settings and perform a touch screen calibration.  Once complete, I then had to open the main door for the calibration to complete and "take ambient".  After this, my screen looked great again.

Not sure if we have the same problem, but it's worth a shot.

Jason

For some reason, when I did the screen calibration from the reset button with the door open, it never looked right.
I don't know why, but doing it with the door closed with the reset key did the trick. It looks awesome now!

Again, Yoeddy1, thanks amigo. This site is "comfort food" for anybody who owns these machines.

Anybody that is still on the fence over going with a Ceronix LCD... make sure you order the right one....their lesser
priced "TN" monitors are ok...but don't hold a candle to their higher priced PVA models.

You're welcome camino. 

Cheers!
Jason

Jason,

I'm trying to understand what happened with the calibration....I went thru the screen calibration numerous times before...but from the test button with
the door open already. Doing like you said...with the door closed and using the reset key to enter calibration mode...did the trick...for sure...but I wonder
why it didn't work doing it the other way....?  I'm trying to grasp how the two different methods produced two different looks on the monitor.......and
why the color went south to begin with......

Weird....!

I really wish I knew.  All I know is that had I not called for support, I would have thought it was a problem with the monitor and would have been looking for an exchange. 

I'm glad it ended up being so easy.  I've seen monitors in that state in the casinos. 

Maybe I should ask the techs if I can borrow their keys.  ;)

Jason

I can not explain how it worked, but I had problems getting a proper calibration on a 19" slant top CRT iGame... It would never calibrate properly, and by chance one day I did a double key flip with the main door/top closed and performed a calibration that way and it worked!!! I had done the calibration starting with the button press with the door open tons of times to no avail! :25- :8- :37-

This is another unexplainable success from doing a calibration starting with the door closed and entereing the calibration with a double key turn as opposed to doing it from the test button.

Just thought it would be good to share and document it here!

CaptainHappy :95-

CRT's and LCD monitors now have ambient light sensors...When you have the door opened, the sensors are calibrating to ALL the light around the monitor (including the FL's light up the machine glass)...With the door closed, it senses the correct condition and lighting around the front of the machine to allow it to adj. color and brightness to compensate for the surrounding lighting as it changes...Just a theory...Anyone wish to comment?

Maybe I missed something here!  :103- but the calibration has always been a two step operation to do it correctly, first time with the door open using the test button, then closing the door and use the reset key to complete. then you can test your handy work and  light up pixels to your hearts content.

both tested for ambient light conditions.


Jim

I do not have my GameKing anymore to try, but I believe you can do the test with or without the door open...If you do the cal. with it open and use the test button, you can do the touchscreen cal. and then it asks you to turn the reset key to complete...After turning the key is say "taking Ambient"...You can do also do this while the door is closed and just turn the reset key and it brings you to the same test, but with the door closed...Why IGT allow the test to occur with the door open does not make sense, but does with the door close...again, just a theory
Jimmy

 Yesterday after reading this thread I did a calibration both ways on a I Game ( Catch a Wave ) with a near new 17" Ceronix LCD   I could not see any difference in the colors.

 OK should I do the calibration in a dark room or just the opposite a bright lit room?  I have a better idea, just leave it alone before it goes "busted"   It's not like I play the damn thing anyway !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

   Buzz  I agree with you  :5-    I think the calibration is for the touch screen ONLY.  example, if you go to press the the save square in the menu and you have to hit the area one inch to the left of it to save the data ,then you would preform a screen calibration,  and hopefully after the calibration when you touch the save menu button it will work within the yellow square.  has nothing to do with the colors, if you took off the touch screen then how would you adjust the colors  :79-

THE COLORS and brightness etc. are still done with the controls on the monitor.


Jim

I did not notice anything about the colors, what happened for me is that the touch screen position would never be correct no matter how many times that I did the process with the door open and doing the test from the menu... Someone had told me to turn the reset key twice with the door closed and it gets you into the test directly. Then you do the test like normal, and if I remember correctly it also asks you to open the door for more calibration. I will have to try it on a machine to see the steps again, besides this way I can blame Buzz if anything gets F'd up!!! :97- I am just pointing out that this correctly calibrated the proper position in the touch screen in one try, whereas the open door and menu method never fixed the problem as it stayed off over an inch. I was afraid that I was going to have to replace the Monitor and touchscreen... Since it was a 19" I figured it would have made me go to a LCD setup.... Maybe I shouldn't have "fixed it?" :5- :103-

CH :95-

I do only needed inputs b4 I exit key chip, go right to screen cal., everything else becomes cake (as inputs go)

Boy am I feeling stooopid.  I thought I'd share this to try and save others some frustration...

We started having problems with the buttons....the lights would go on and off at will....and they would
stop working off and on. The guy that sold the machine was quick to pinpoint the problem to the
IO board on the coin comparitor. It had worked loose and was hanging half in and half out...giving
all sorts of weird intermittent problems with the machine. After reseating it, it was like hitting on all
eight cylinders after running on six forever.

After reading of some people's doubts about the cause of the monitor problems we've had (about having
nothing to do with the touch screen adjustment procedure)  I'm wondering if this loose board could
caused the odd problem we had with the monitor not displaying correctly?