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Hello !
I need to change my game chip SP1137.I have had error code 62_0 a couple of times.I have orderd a new chip and was wondering if this is the right way to set up th machine with the new chip:

Initializing the new gameAfter installing the main system board, install the hopper and turn the power switch on. The machine should come to life and you should see a "61" displayed in the winner paid window. - You may see a 65, 66 or 67 in the window instead. See the below illustrations and pictures to see what you need to do for each code displayedIf you see a "65, 66, or 67"code after making a chip change - Power off the machine, then back on. You should then see a 61 displayed in the winner paid window.When you get a 61 press and hold the white test button next to the power switch until you hear a "Ding"Once you get a 61 1 close door completely and turn the jackpot reset key one timeNote: - A Common problem that occurs after a game change is that you will see a 61- 1 code after you hold the test button in and hear the "Ding" but you close the door and turn the reset key and nothing happens. This is usually caused by an open door to the cash storage container or a misaligned Bill validator. - Check all your doors to be certain they are completely closed before closing the main machine door.

Also,the reel music was missing.It  just suddenly stopped and i had to take out the board and set the dipswitch to "on" instead of "off" and the music came back but with a "click" sound when the reels stops.Does this have anything to do with the game chip since i didn't have this problem before ?
Thanks for all help :88-

Welcome to NLG

I believe the 10 mhz board does not use the dip switch settings so you must have a 16 mhz board.

@poppo

thanks for the heads up on the dip switches



The click sound has replaced the handle solenoid reel stop noise, this is a setting issue and can be changed.

Here's a couple of links that might help:

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=15701.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=15701.0)

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=16768.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=16768.0)

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=5172.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=5172.0)

The SP1137 Montana Credits chip is a special 10MHz chip which allows one to drop as many coins as they want
and they all go to the credit display.
It does indeed utilize the dip switches and they are as follows:

DIP SWITCH OPTIONS
The dual in-line package switch selection chart is located on the processor board tray.  The options for this machine are:  hopper limit (switches 1 and 2), reel-spin sound (switch 3), fast or normal game speed (switch 4), progressive enable/disable (switch 5), high/low or alternating progressive (switch 6), double or single progressive (switch 7), and link or standalone progressive (switch 8).  The DIP switch configuration is displayed in the self test mode.




It also has a special Idle Music Mode in the Sound Test that one can set as well:


Idle Mode Music Selection   
Activates songs and allows selection of the song that is played during the attract mode. 
Turn the jackpot reset key to select a song. 
Press the self test button to save the selection.




This SP1137 chip may not work for games that have special Haywire Type 2 features
and could explain why you're getting the [62-0] error.
What SS reel chip are you using?...>>>

GAME TYPE
Type 0 (no special features), Type 1 (Slam Dunk, Balloon Bars, etc.), Type 4 (Spin ’Til You Win), Type 5 (4th of July), Type 12 (Fever), and Type 14 (Tournament).  The tournament option can be enabled in the self test mode, provided the correct paytable program, beginning with STxxxx, is installed.  Type 0 games support nine paylines.

Thanks for your fast reply.The reel chip i have is SS4471 (1-64) (Red,white and blue 5-lines)
When i bought the machine,the seller showed me all i needed to know about it.He took out the pcb and pointed out the important chips(game and reel chip).
He had never had any error codes on it.I played a lot of coins and bills on it before i took it home but then he suddenly got a 32 error.He open the door and cleared it.After that he got the 62_0 error and after that another 30 something error that he couldn't clear.
I got the machine cheaper since he couldn't figure our the error code.When i plugged in the machine at home,the error code was not there and the machine worked fine.After that i have had some reel tilts(40 something error codes) + another 62_ code.
The reel music was there from the beginning but suddenly stopped at home.The only sounds i had was the coin sounds and winning sound + a beep sound for each reel stopping.
I took out the pcb and changed the dipswitch 3 to ON position and then the reel music came back but with the anoying clicking sound for each  reel + handle.

Now ,when i turn on the machine the only thing that happens is the reels spin one time and the insert coins light comes on + 0 coins played.
Since the 1,2,3,4,5 lines on the left of the glass doesen't light up,i can't insert coins and play the machine :99-

SS4471 RW&B 5C 5L is a Type 0 game so the SP1137 should work with it -
providing you're using a 10MHz MPU board...
 
Here's a link to a list of some of the S+ error codes you're getting...>>>

http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/ (http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/)

Go back on the MPU and flip the 3rd dipswitch to the "Off" position and see what happens to your sounds.
However, you're having other start up problems which need to be addressed first that are more important...
Are your reel tilts (41/42/or 43) caused by a loose reel harness connector under the reel shelf?
Un-plug those (with power off) and re-seat them...could be just old, oxidized male pins and female receptor pins.
Re-plugging the connectors may grab a new contact and rub some of the oxidization off the pins.
If you have a can of contact spray cleaner ("De-Oxit" is a good brand), spray the pins before re-plugging them.

Also, check and see if your reel glass display panel nuts are tight.
Should be 3 nuts holding the panel underneath the reel glass shelf on the door.
If loose, the display will tilt rearwards ever so slightly making contact with one
or more of the reel basket rims causing a "4x" reel tilt error.
Check also the strips are fully inserted into the reel basket grooves
and not sitting on top of the baskets at any place.

Finally, the reel glass BET line display on the left hand side...re-seat the connector going into it with the power off.
Another possible place for pin oxidization....too much heat in that area from the door panel fluorescent lighting can cause that to not work as well.
With the power off...check all three fuses ( doesn't hurt to check) on the power supply:
Top Fuse=6A
Middle Fuse=8A
Bottom Fuse=6A
All "Quick-Blow" fuses only!!!
I want to see if your seller installed the correct fuses.
If not, then you are slowly burning out IC components in your machine without you knowing about it.
This is of course, the seller's fault.

Fuses and nuts are OK.The seller had the machine for about 3-4 months before i bought it and had never had any error codes.
Here is some more info:The machine was working well(suddenly no more error codes) untill i recieved the first game chip i orderd.The label said SP1311.I contacted the seller(he was the one who gave me the instructions on how to repalce the game chip) and he told me try it as he thought he had labled it wrong.I installed the chip and got the code 61.I tried to follow the instructions but all i got out of it was the reels was spinning in the opposite direction so i guess the chip i got was wrong.
The seller has sendt me a new chip.Hopefully i will recieve it within a couple of days.
I installed the old chip back and now the reels spin once and the insert coins light is on + 0 coins played.Nothing more happens.The only thing i can do is to go into test mode.
It was also like this when the machine was working ok.Sometimes when i turned the power on(insert coins light  + 0 coins played) and nothing more happend.After a coulpe minutes(sometimes longer) the insert coins light  + 0 coins played light whent out  for some seconds and then all the lights in the display came back on(1,2,3,4,5 on the left + winner paid and credit and the button lights. :103-

You need to read Rick's FAQ on the right hand side on the homepage...or go to this link below.
Read all of it and do your best to understand it.
Get really familiar with how an S+ is set up...>>>


http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/gamechange.htm (http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/gamechange.htm)

FYI, the lights on the side will show what number of lines were last played. So they may not always all be lit, especially after clearing an an error.

Just to clarify, it's the 16MHz boards that don't have DIP switches. The 10MHz boards do, but some of the newer some SP chips don't use them.

Without any documentation in front of me - I'd guess that the SP1311 requires a 16MHz board.
I could be wrong on this.


ADD>>> I was wrong...it uses a plain 10MHz MPU though the PSR doesn't say so.

See attachment...>>> Website won't allow a .docx sheet to load here...sorry.

My list (from here) shows it as a 10MHz.
SP1311 Type 0,1,4,5,14 (Tournament) 10MHz ("much faster than SP1253") ID023, $0.01/0.05, SET088/89/90/91/101/102/116 - SAS EFT

The SP1309 is listed as 16MHz
SP1309 Type 0,1,4,5,14 (Tournament) 16MHz, ID023, SET088/89/90/91/101/102/121, $0.01/0.05 - SAS EFT

Also check the white molex connector that goes to the motherboard (the board the MPU pugs into) and see if it looks burnt. See this thread. It can cause some intermittent issues.

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=9367.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=9367.0)

Interesting...both Type 0 games yet on differing MPU's.
I would have bet some Swiss franc's an SP1311 would require a 16MHz MPU.

I checked the fuses again and saw something strange.Since i live in Norway,i guess the fuses are a bit different in my machine.

Top fuse:6A
Middle fuse:8A
Bottom fuse:20A
This is what the label states inside the machine on each fuse.

Top and middle fuses are correct (6+8 A)
I took out the bottom fuse and it's a 10A.I switched it with a 20A fuse but it made no difference,just a quick freeze when the reels started spinning and whent back to the same condition as before.I changed back to the 10A.
Does it make any difference if it's a 10 or 20 A fuse ?
Are my fuses correct ?

A 20Amp in a 6Amp socket is never good... :60-
Too much juice :50- man! That is allowing 14 extra amperage of power to the lines...!!!
You better go to the store and buy a 6A and stick it there but
it may be already way too late.
Ask your seller why he put a 20A fuse in there and see what he says.
I'll bet he's way past his eye prescription limits for his reading glasses...  :25-

I wonder if there are burned out circuit traces on the motherboard?  :98-

The motherboard looks very good.No burnmarks.The strange thing is that the label says 20A.There was no 20A fuse in there but a 10A.Is the correct fuse 6A even though the label says 20A ????

What's the common household voltages in wall sockets in Norway? 220Volts?

Did you check that power supply cable posted above?

Here in Norway we have 220 V.I have posted on a forum here in Norway about the fuses because i know one guy there also has an IGT machine like mine.He was the one who gave me the tip about this site.

Bunker  Think about it.     A over size fuse isn't going to produce or allow any extra amperage to flow to the protected component.

 I guess what I'm trying to say is the number rating on a fuse isn't the amount of amps that flow through a fuse, they are the rating of the amount of amps that are required to cause the fuse to blow in the event of a malfunction of the protected component. I think if a fuse somewhere along the line restricted the amps it would no longer be a fuse it would now be a resistor. ( I think I'm right )   :103- :103-

Ok, before we get too fixated on fuses, let's remember that fuses only limit the amount of current that can flow though them before they blow. They won't let more current flow unless there is a higher demand. For example, if there is a load that typically pulls 4 amps, one may have a 6 amp fuse. That way if something shorts, as soon as the current rises to 6 amps, the fuse will blow. So assuming the 4 amp load is working properly, one could put a 50 amp fuse in there and it would still only draw 4 amps. Of course if something did short, then a lot of other items would cook before the 50 amp fuse blows.

So since there was a 10 amp fuse in there to begin with (assuming it was not blown), I would just put that back in. However you may want to swap fuse holder caps around as they have a tendency to go bad and see if the symptoms change.

Have you checked that power supply cable noted above. It is known to cause issues if it is burnt.  

And when you had the MPU out, did you unplug the small transformer? I ask because I've plugged it in offset by a pin and had some strange things happen.

Also, look at the pins on the bottom of the MPU. Sometimes one gets bent and the MPU does not seat properly.

<edit> LOL Seems Buzz was on the same page on the fuses.

You guys may be right about the fuses but there is not much play between a 6A and 8A fuse - only 2 amps!!!
I do not take a chance with these machines and install the correct fuses only.
IGT labels the fuse holders as 6A, 8A, and 6A from top to bottom for a designed specific reason.
I cannot make a recommendation to install higher-rated fuses.

Why this machine has a label that says 10A for an S+ on the bottom fuse holder is very strange
and I have never seen that before.  :60-
I would like to see a photograph of this fuse box and it's labels.  :89-

While you can change the house hold current/power into the transformer,
depending on where the machine is located, by moving the purple wire, and jumping another wire in the bus -
the rated amperage for the 3 main fuses in an S+ machine on the fuse box remains the same for all S+'s.

If you want to fry stuff in your machine, then put in larger rated fuses -
you can just about guarantee that over time, something will eventually burn out.

I agree fully with Poppo that the 6-pin Molex going to the motherboard from the power supply should be looked at.
The green ground receptor pins are well known to become weakened and oxidized -
creating intermittent contact within the connector housing with the motherboard pins.
These pins CAN be cleaned with a de-oxidization spray but it does not address the weakened female receptor pins -
one might get lucky though and have it work for a long time after cleaning.

A simple method that helps is to turn the power off, unplug and re-seat that Molex about half a dozen times quickly.
What that does is sort of scrape the male pins a bit - sometimes creating better contact.
It's not a bad temporary fix.

Power supply cable and the connectors are all ok.No burnmarks at all.The pcb is superclean(Looks like it just came out of the factory).No burnmarks.
I got an answer from the other forum and he told me that the fuses he had in his machine was 6A,8A and 3A
I looked again on the label and i think i got it all wrong(T3,20A 230V)
Well,her are 2 pictures.One with the fuses and one with the currect status of the machine.

With the door open, does pressing the self test button do anything on the display?

If so, when you close the door, what happens to the display?

Good, Bad or Otherwise  here's my fix!!

Wow! Your machine needs a 3.20A fuse for the bottom one and it's running on 230VAC.
I've never seen that! It's a European machine for sure!
Funny how someone used a magic marker and drew a line over the 115VAC and hand wrote "220".
It's very possible that the "3" was overlooked when you looked at the fuse?  :129-

Buzz's solder job onto the motherboard header works well too!
Eliminates any possible chance of a bad contact.

I'm afraid something might of burned out when you switched the 10A
and put in the 20A fuse then went back to the 10A fuse (Reply#13)

I'd try what Poppo asked if the Test button gives you any other numbers on the display or not
and what happens when you close the door ?
Does it go out momentarily?
It should and then the insert coins light should come on waiting for you to drop a coin.
If you get that far, does the coin get accepted?
If so, press the "Spin" button at that point.

Current in inversely proportional to voltage. In other words, double the voltage = half the current (given the same load).

Maby i read the bottom fuse a bit too quick :25-.It reads:

3-2/10v 250v

Is this correct for my machine ?
As i said,the machine was working fine(exept from the clicking sound)before i changed the game chip and after that the machine went crazy(reels spinning int he wrong direction).Hopefully i will recieve the new game chip any day now.The reason why i orderd a new chip was that i had alll theese errors codes (62-0 3 times) and some different reel tilt erros and a couple of 30 something errors.
After a couple of weeks,the errors didn't show up anymore but i wanted to change the chip since i had the 62-0 errors and after i changed it with the SP1311 chip i couldn't get it to work right again when i changed it back to the old chip.

The 3.2A fuse that's in there now - is right.
The reels upon the initial boot up start - will turn backwards
and stop with the reel strip edges on the payline. That's normal.
If the game has a payout for blanks, the first left-most strip -
will stop at one reel stop above the payline.

The "clicking sound" is the game simulating a "stopping" sound.
That can be changed by the 3rd dipswitch on the MPU board.
Fool around with it to get the results you prefer.

All your common errors are on the sheet I pointed a link to here...>>>

http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/ (http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/)

When you changed chips, it's possible that the CMOS lost it's memory
and went back to the default settings from the factory which include the "clicking sounds" for the reel stops.
Other than a possible bad SP1311 chip - I don't see anything wrong with your machine.

Mark  Please be clear, by backwards does he mean 3 2 1, or does he mean they spin from bottom to top ?? ( I guess I could say in REVERSE )  If you were standing on the pull handle side of the machine the side view of the  reels they are spinning CCW  I've had a couple of S 2000 boot up spinning CW (which is not normal) I don't know if a S+ will do that or not !

I'm not sure what he mean but you're right Buzz, I meant that upon Boot Up with a different SP chip installed -
the 3rd reel should spin first, then the middle reel, then the left-most reel
or right to left...>>>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYG-y3Olbwo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYG-y3Olbwo)

That's the way my reels was spinnig when i installed the other chip.
The reel music has nothing to do with the SP1311.It dissapeard before i changed the chip.I had to change dipswitch 3 to ON in order to get the music back but now with the clicking sound.
When the reel music suddenly stopped,it was replaced with a "beep" each time a reel stopped.All the other sounds was there but no music.
Is there anything i can do in the menu to get it going again or do i have to wait untill i get my new chip ?

I don't have a PSR for the SP1311, but I do have one for the SP1312 which says that the spin sound is controlled with DIP switch #3. So you may want to double check it.

Typically when reel spin sounds are enabled, the reel stop sound is controlled by the handle solenoid (hence the 'click'). My understanding was that they could not incorporate both reel spin sounds AND stop sounds using the sound chip at the same time. So with reel spin sounds off, I think the stop sounds are generated by the sound generator (hence the 'beep').

So if flipping dip switch #3 gets you spin sounds but a click sound for the stop, it's working correctly.

I must be getting old, I had the impression the machine didn't work at all.

No, that is what I thought too. This has been a very confusing thread.  :5-

Mark  It doesn't take a whole lot to get me in that state of mind !!

  Don't forget I hang out with Joey, The Skipper and Stat, that's more than a good reason to be confused,  Sure glad Staz lives on the other side of the country.

You can't get the "beep" and music at the same setting when the reels spin then stop -
It's one or the other.

I don't think the SP1311 is any different - uses the dipswitches as well.

Like I said, play with the 3rd dipswitch on or off and see what you get and stick with it.
If you WANT the reel-spin music - it comes with the solenoid click sound every time the reel stop spinning.

If you want to physically stop the clicking sound, disconnect the solenoid wire but your handle won't unlock.

I guess another way would to put a rubber band on the solenoid lever so it remains in the "unlocked" state at all times.
Your handle would activate the spin mode if you wanted and there would be no more clicking sound
and you'd still have the reel-spin music.
That's probably your best bet to get the machine to work the way you want it.

I played around with my arm solenoid and put a little rubber o ring on it. It still clicks, but is not as loud as it was.

Leave the O-Ring on it but pull one of the wires off the solenoid connector tabs.
The handle will remain "open" at all times and no more clicking sound
and you'll have reel-spin music!

The o ring was only to quiet it. I still wanted it to lock and to click, but not quite so loud. The o ring is just a noise damper.

Bunker  The folks I seem to sell to, you would be castrated if you disabled the handle.  Would you believe a very good customer had my Son insstall coin handling on a 180 credit machine.

I think Bunker's idea is that the handle would not be dissabled, it just would not lock (the solenoid held in). You could pull it and it would do nothing unless there there were 'coins played' ready to go.

I think the only original idea Bunker ever had, had something to do with a golf ball.  ( I've been wrong before.)

This should be good.  :72-
:310-

I was told by a unnamed source that if Bunker ever had his brain examined all they would find would be a pubic hair and a golf ball. I really don't know if there is any truth to that story or not.  :79- :79- :79- :79-

I missed something here...lol I was watching golf on T.V.  
I must respectfully disregard your fine comment... :72-

I'm not saying that the handle would be disabled Buzz,
all the mod with the rubber band and removing one wire does - is stop the clicking.
By the way, I'm not claiming it's my idea...I learned about it through NLG!

If you put in a bet, the handle still works fine.
It just doesn't stayed locked in the upright position but the spring does pull it back
to it's upright position after pulling the handle to begin a game.

I was wondering if anyone knows where i can buy another gamechip.I still haven't recieved my chip(2 weeks since he shipped it to me) and it's the 2nd time this guy has sendt me a replacement chip so now i have no more patience.I WANT MY MACHINE WORKING AGAIN :37- :8-
Hope someone can help me :99-

You can always post a "WTB" (Want To Buy) ad in the classifieds section (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=108.0) with information on the exact chip you're looking for, and one of the vendors or another member will likely be able to supply you with the chip you need.

Where should i beginn ?
First of all,thanks to Buzz for providing me with the different chips.The first thing i did was to replace the SP1137 chip.Nothing new happend.The i used the clear chip i received and installed the SP1137 chip back.After that i got the machine going again after turning it on /off a couple of times since it didn't respond at first.The only difference now was that it only accepted coins but no bills(still doesn't).Is this because i used the clear chip ?
I played it a couple of times and suddenly in the middle of a reelspin the machine "froze" and all the display light went off except for "coins played" display that now reads "0".I got it going again after having to use the clear chip again but the same thing happend again.
Sometime the "0" would go away and it suddenly got back normal but after some more spins it went back to "0"
I also tried to use the set chips that he sent me(Set86+90) regarding the problems with the machine not accepting bills but it didn't help anything.
Current status now is still "0" in the coins played display.
Now I'm thinking of getting a new CPU board since I'm getting nowhere.
Let me know your thoughts on this  :3-

Using the clear disabled the BV. You will need a SET chip for that (to enable the BV AND set the denomination).

Sounds like you have another intermittent problem. Another MPU would be a good place to start. But if that is not it, you may have to hunt down the problem.

I suggest either making a door optics bypass or doing something like below. This would allow you to mess with the machine with the door open (i.e. wiggle and jiggle wires etc. to see if you can narrow down where the problem is. Without reading the whole thread again, have you checked that white power supply molex connector?

Door optics mounted on tray.

Also, there are more door switches  at the machine. Bill box door may have one and also at the belle glass door could be another one. 
Try to "short" them and check again for the "0" problem. Definitely is a door switch malfunctioning.

Just got the machine going again.I also had a problem with the bill validator but that was because i had not set the denomination when i used the set chip.
Since the machine is set up to accept Norwegian bills (NOK) i'm not sure what to set the denomination on.I first set it to 1000 but when i inserted a 200 bill i only got 20 credits(same with 500,50 credits and 1000,100 credits)
I changed the denomination again to 10000 but when i inserted a 200 bill i only got 2 credits.
What is the right denomination for my bills ? :103-

What is the ratio supposed to be? In other words if you put in a 200, how many credits should it give you?

Looks like if you set it to 10 you will get 200 for 200 in.

If i insert a 200 it should be 200 credits.

Wouldn't that be 100? He is getting 20 when set to 1000 and 2 when set to 10000.

100 was correct.Thanks :88-

Yes,
My eyes are not what they use to be.
Too many zeros, but not in my paycheck.