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I am new to the site so if i should go somewhere else to post this please let me know.  I have a 1990 players edge draw poker machine. It has a door open call attendant message and the light on top is blinking. It also has an eeprom message displayed.  I am looking for some help on trouble shooting the problem.  The machine does not have any door switches or optic switches that i can find.  I dont know if someone removed anything that caused this issue as i picked up the machine second hand and the individual had no knowledge of what was wrong with it. If you know where i can aquire a manual or a schematic that would help .   Any help is appreciated .   

Welcome to the site!

 :238-

Do you have an upright or a slant top machine?  Does it have a bill validator?  Has the machine ever worked for you, and if so, what happened that this message appeared?

Also, can you please post the exact text of the EEPROM message that is displayed -- there is more than one possible EEPROM error message, and we need to know the exact message to figure out what the machine is telling you.

The more background you can give us on the machine and the situation, the more we can help you.

Also, if you can post a picture of the machine with the door open, that would be helpful for us to determine how the machine is sensing the door being open or closed.

It is an upright machine. No bill validator just a coin slot. The machine has never worked for me. The guy i got it from said it stopped working and couldnt remember what went wrong.  When i powered it up it just states door open call attendant eeprom data. Not knowing to much i tried to reset the white button on the box and turned the key on the side . it keeps coming back to door open call attendant eeprom data.  I will upload the pics as soon as i can get them loaded.    it says it is an IGT players edge manufactured 10/90 s/n 220689 model B1070gi or could be B1070ci. I cant find no door switches or optical switches anywhere on the door or case i did find a connector on the door and case that dont have anything plugged into them and they are not jumpered.

here is a pic of the message and the coin slot.

The EPROM data error is the most concerning.
I get these when I do a game change. Usually cycling through the menus clears it.
Turning the reset key with the door open should also clear this.

The 1990 date should make this a  PE+. The absence of a bill validator and funny shaped coin tray along with some of the message placements lead me to believe this to be a PE and not a PE+

With the machine off please remove the MPU board and take a photo.

Door optics are not a mechanical switch. They look more like a small clip. They do have wires coming from them.
One is an IR emitter the other is a receiver. They do not emit visible light.
You can however look at them with a digital camera and the LCD will make this look like a strobe.

It's a multi game machine based on the pictures given to us. That can only be on a PE+ superboard.

When you close the door, does the door open message ever disappear? The correct procedure here is to press and hold the white self test button for about five seconds, then close the door (the "door open" message should vanish), then turn the jackpot reset key.

If the door open message never goes away, you'll never get past that EEPROM DATA error.

I powered up the machine and could not find any strobes appearing or any clip like items. I did find the wires with nothing connected to them. See pics.
 


Is it possible to be a PE and someone replaced the board with a PE+ ?




NO



This does not clear anything and does not make the door message go away



I agree i need to fix the door open mesag first.

Here are the pics



Added quote tags to figure out who was saying what. -KN

HERE ARE A FEW MORE PICS

HERE ARE THE PICS OF THE CONNECTORS WITH NOTHING ATTACHED

AND HERE IS A SHOT OF THE FRONT OF THE MOTHER BOARD WHILE IT IS INSTALLED. i DONT SEE ANY CONNECTOR THAT SHOULD BE CONNECTED TO THE OPEN PLUG. iS THIS NORMAL?

Yup,
Your missing the door optics. Order a set from here.
http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=37&product_id=1589 (http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=37&product_id=1589)

Not really - they use different boards with different connectors between the MPU board and the motherboard.



Agreed with Neonkiss -- you need door optics plugged into the two unplugged harnesses you showed.  Don't worry about the empty plug on the outside of the MPU board enclosure.

Also after you get the optics installed and the error cleared, You'll need a coin in the compairator.

WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY I WILL NEED A COIN IN THE COMPARITOR?

Your machine like most modern machines has a coin compairator installed.
It MUST have a sample coin installed and it then compares all coins entered to the sample.
It checks size, metallurgical content and I'm sure more in the blink of an eye. It will reject any coin that does not match the sample.

I attached a copy of your picture where your sample coin is missing.
Slide it back to the right and install a coin.
If your hopper is set up as a quarter, install a quarter.
If you hopper is a nickel, install a nickel.
Hopefully you don't have a dollar hopper.  :79-

Ok got it. Kind of figured that might be what you were talking about just wanted to make sure.  It had quarters in the machine so i will assume it is set up for quarters.  I have ordered the optic switches.  SOon as i get them in i will let you know. Thanks for all the help .  ANy recomendations on where i can buy a schematic or manual.  I happen to be going to Vegas next week :3- so i thought i would see if someone out there may have one.  Never know when it can come in handy.   

Neon  Actually you can use a CC 16 comparitor for a dollar size coin ( Ike ) or token. The problem you will run into is finding a IGT right hand drop, dollar coin head. ( they did make them but not many ) One solution is take the back plate off a 50 cent coin head and I use a bench grinder to open it up wide enough for the dollar coin/token.  There is a shim that must be removed in the lower part of the comparitor and the coin optic shim, but I installed this on a S 2000 and it works good.

Yes, you can.

However I was think if had to go from small coin to large coin you also have to change the optics on the hopper.
For large coin it's configure differently.
From large coin to small coin is easier as you only have to remove the large coin optic arm and flag.

Robert your right, I didn't go into the large coin hoppers because if your anything like me you have a bunch of dollar hoppers with no place to use them.

OK finally got the switches. I dont understand why rudy deals allows you to select a shipping address and then only ships to your paypal address and then you have to reorder and pay twice but live and learn.  So does it matter which switch goes where or not? 

Ok so i couldnt wait for an answer. I put the one that looks like the little lightbulb on the case side pic 62 and the one that looks like the receiver eye on the door side. Plugged in turned on and reset everything.  Great news is the door open message is out. :3- Bad news :103- is i still have a screen that now just says call attendant.  I have reset it and it runs thru a resetting game memory and i think it does this twice and at the end it says call attendant and thats it.  I took a shot of where i think the quarter goes for the comparator pic 61so if its not right let me know.  Otherwise i am open to your suggestions.  Thanks everyone.  

When you say that "you have reset it" -- what do you mean?  That you've turned the jackpot reset key?  Stop turning that!   :30-  The jackpot reset key isn't the "fix everything" switch -- it has its time and place to be used, repeatedly turning it won't fix your issue -- it'll just keep cycling through the statistical data.   :60-

If your machine just has a "Call Attendant" screen with nothing else:

- Open the door.  (A "Door Open" message should appear, possibly along with another message (like "EEPROM DATA"))

- Press and hold the small white Self Test button for at least five seconds before you release it (you should hear a "ding" if your speakers are turned up)

- Close and fully latch the door.  (Ensure that the "Door Open" message vanishes from the screen)

- Turn the jackpot reset key once.  (The screen will go blank for a second, and then may return to another "Call Attendant" screen, or bring you to the idle screen with cards displayed.)

- If you're back to another Call Attendant screen, open the door again and once again press and hold the Self Test button for at least five seconds, then release it.  The game should then jump to the idle screen with cards displayed.  (If, by chance, a different error is displayed, you may need to one more time close and latch the door and turn the reset key once, and perhaps press the self test button inside the machine one more time, but I doubt that will happen.)

when i say reset i mean i pressed the white button for 5 seconds and then closed the door and turned the key on the side one time. When the door is open i have a door open message along with the eeprom message. when i close the door it all goes away except call attendant .    i did this at least 3 times and each time it ends up just showing call attendant when it is done. Nothing else is on the screen except call attendant.  I didnt hear any sounds and i am assuming the sound is off as i dont get any sounds at any time.  The cards are never displayed during this process.  When you say i doubt that will happen, well i hate to say it, but it goes right back to call attendant and nothing else. ANy other ideas? :103- 

With the door open verify that there are wires off of the key switch......
Turn the key switch with the door open.

Close the door.... any change ??? if not turn the key switch again and see if there is any change.

Do you have a clear chip ?

Crummy.  Is the error that's displayed each time after you open the door "EEPROM DATA", or does it ever change?

You can adjust the volume pot (a small blue dial sticking out of the silver MPU board tray) to try and be able to hear the ding -- assuming the dial isn't broken, it should have stops at its loudest and quietest setting -- move the dial to the mid-point between the two stops to ensure that you'll hear something.

I'm leaning towards a clear chip, too.  It almost sounds like it's stuck in a S+ "61 loop" type of error.

Ok i have no idea what clear chip means. I adjusted this knob in the pic but still dont have any volume.  I dont understand the comment (With the door open verify that there are wires off of the key switch......
Turn the key switch with the door open.) Do you want me to disconnect the wires that are attached to the key switch and if so all of them or just one to break the circuit or did you mean to say verify there ar No wires off of the key switch?  
The only message that is displayed now is the call attendant. Unless you have the door open then you have door open call attendant eeprom data

here is the pic of the knob i beleive you wanted me to adjust. After pushing the white button ( and it doesnt matter how many times i do this) and then closing the door when i turn the jackpot key once the attached pic is displayed. It just sits there. If i turn the jackpot key a second time it then goes to verifying game memory please wait and the light on top goes steady then the message disappears for a second and the light flashes on top and then it comes right back and says the same thing(verifying game memory) and the light is back to steady for a few more seconds and then the message is gone and the call attendant message is displayed and the light is flashing on the top.  No sounds at any time while doing any of this.  Thanks for the help guys.

Hi, I'm not one of the experts here, but I'll add my two cents on what I know.  And I've got to say that you've done an excellent job explaining and posting pictures.   :131-

From what I've read, you've done all the right things thus far.  The fact that the message is still not going away after pressing/holding the white reset, closing the door and turning the key, then opening the door again and pressing the white test button just briefly ... this is the normal steps.

I'm wondering now if perhaps you're seeing a hard tilt as a result of one of the settings.  Again, I'm not the expert, but while we're waiting for the Dr.'s, you could try this ...

• Turn on the machine, open the door and press the white test button.  A menu should appear.
• Each press of the white test button should display another menu. 
• The first and second menus are typically the input/output tests so you can check all the buttons, switches, comparitor, hopper, etc.
• Subsequent screens are for changing settings.
• One screen will refer to tilt errors.  Make sure all of them are off or "soft", meaning, the machine should not stop for any error.
• Continue pressing the white test button until you reach the end of the menus and ... if you're lucky, the call attendant message might disappear.

Hope that's helpful!  Hang in there!  You've got a nice machine.

Good luck!   :88-

I just re-read your last post.  I see you also have a EEPROM error with the door open.  That's worse.  You might actually need a clear chip.

A clear chip is a chip that you put in the game slot to reset all of the game data.  You basically pull the game chip, insert the reset chip, turn on the machine, press reset, turn off the machine, and put your game chip back.

For this kind of machine, I believe you need a PE-CLR chip to clear, which you can find on Ebay or probably get it cheaper by posting a WTB in the Classifieds section of this site.

when i press the white reset button it does not allow me to cycle thu any menus. I remember it doing this early on when i started troubleshooting it but thought i did something else to get it to do that. when i press and release it nothing happens unless i turn the jackpot key twice as earlier mentioned and then it says verifying game memory and then goes back to call attendant.  ANy other ideas?  I cant find thie PE_CLR chip you are talking about on ebay is it called something else? what does it look like. Thanks

If you're not getting menus and still getting the EPROM error, then I"d definitely consider the clear chip.  You can ask this Ebay seller if these chips will work for a PE (they work for PE+) ...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-PE-Players-edge-Clear-Ram-Bill-Validator-Set-Chip-/251004558466?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a71099c82#ht_500wt_1156 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-PE-Players-edge-Clear-Ram-Bill-Validator-Set-Chip-/251004558466?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a71099c82#ht_500wt_1156)

... or post a want-to-buy (WTB) on the Classifieds section of this site at ...

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=108.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=108.0)

When you get the chip, you're going to remove the game chip from the MPU (slot U67 I believe), put the clear chip in, put the MPU back in and turn on the machine.  Then, you turn the machine back off, remove the clear chip and reinsert the game chip.  The chips have an arrow on them to indicate the direction so the clear chip should go in the same direction as the game chip.  You really want to use a chip remover and not try to pry the chip out, especially with a screwdriver, or you could damage the MPU board and/or the chip.  Also, you want to take static precaution.

Good luck!

Don't worry about the wires on your keyswitch. We know that's working properly since you can get to the statistical data screens.

The whole EEPROM DATA error message is pretty normal after a game change. In fact, the only thing not normal here is that you're not getting the "ding" after holding the self test button for five seconds. (You are holding the switch down for at least five seconds, right?)

(An aside, you can't get to the test screens that Vegas Local was referencing  when your machine is at the error screen that you're at - you have to get past the error to be able to get to the self test menus.)

Aside from the clear chip, all that's left is to make sure that your self test button is working. If you have a multi-meter, with the machine off remove the MPU board and test the leads of the switch for continuity when the button is pressed. If the switch is working, you likely need a clear chip.

Yes i held it for 5 seconds and longer just to ensure.  Ok i will check the switch with a meter. Trying to find the clear chip.  I have found a set of like 12 do you recomend buying the entire set of chips or just finding the one . I only plan on having this machine as i do not expect to expand beyond that.  Thanks

If that one pair of clear/denom will work for your PE, then I'd just stick with those. 

Ok here is the info on the switch.  Green is top, yellow is middle, yellow /purple is bottom. see pic.   I have continuity between green and yellow purple. Push the switch and continuity goes away. Green or yellow/purple to ground both show continuity.  Yellow to green no continuity. Push the switch and you get continuity. Yellow to yellow/purple nothing even if you push the switch.  I have no diagram so i cant tell if this is accurate, Obviously the switch is working or continuity wouldnt go away at certatin points.  Let me know if you think this is accurate.  I ordered the one set of chips should be here end of week so will know more next week unless somone thinks i should try something else.  Thanks for all the help.  

OK got the chip. Couple quick questions. I am assuming i swap the chip on the lower left part of the picture which says xmpg game with the chip i received to the right of the pic labeled pe-clr.  I also have to assume you just pry the chip up out of the board using a non metalic piece of some sort or should i head up to radio shack and look for a tool?  After swapping i will follow th previous post on what to do.

DON'T PRY IT OUT!   :60-

Lots of jokes about using screwdrivers on the board.  Not only can it damage the chip, it can also damage the board. :47-

You should really invest in a cheap little chip remover.  Looks like a pair of large tweezers that grab the chips from each end.

And I'm sure you know to take precaution to avoid static.  That will also irrevocably damage the chip. :50-

Yes, you have it right.  You use the clear chip in the game chip slot. :89-

1)  Turn off power.
2)  Replace game chip (xmpg game) with clear chip (pe-clr).
3)  Put MPU back in and power up.  Screen should indicate that system is cleared.
4)  Turn off power and remove MPU.
5)  Replace clear chip with your game chip.
6)  Put MPU back in and power up.  Then, follow the old instructions you've been doing to clear the error, which is press/hold white reset, close door, turn key, repeat until all errors clear.

Can't remember from previous posts if you have a bill validator, but if you do, you'll then have to use your other chip (SET038) to reenable that the same way you used the clear chip.

Good luck! :244-

OK i will go get a tool.  I figured as much even though the guy that sold the chip said use a screw driver, i just hope he was accurate when he said this clr chip will work on my machine.  No bill validator so this should be all i need to do.  WIll let you know thanks for all the help.

The slot tech forum is referred to as the brotherhood of the bent screwdriver.

Personally i am not a fan of the chip pullers.
I use a small metallic screwdriver aptly bent  to lift each chip.
The idea of a bent screwdriver is that is slides flat under the chip vs wedging the sharp tip into the pcb board when you lift.

The radioshack claw mech comes with a similar metallic tool that is made out of tin and is crap. bends under first use.
This is why bent screwdrivers work well.

Start on one end and lift a bit, repeat at the other end. Avoid lifting either end too much otherwise you bend the pins.

Regardless how  you get the chip out just make sure the new one goes in the same way.

Remember you will need a set chip later to activate the bill valudator.

I learn something new every single day on this site.  I'm going to have to try the bent screwdriver!  Very cool!  :205-   :259-

NO Joy.  OK got the tool instead of using a bent screw driver and changed the chip out,  When  powering up with the clr chip installed  i get a purple background and it says eeprom data failure then it pops up and says IGT clear eeprom press self test switch.  So i did.  it ends up coming back to the eeprom data failure.  I powered down and swapped the chip back out with the game chip.  Now this time when i powered up it said door open call attendant CMOS data.  I hit the reset button and got the ding youve been talking about closed the door turned the jackpot key twice and then it goes thru the verifying game memory twice and then just says call attendant.  I tried the reset procedure again but it didnt ding this time.  I swapped chips and did the same procedure twice.  Each time it dings once after the intial swap of chips but after that nothing. The CMOS data screen only appears once after swapping chips.  
 So in the end i have a blue screen and it says call attendant.  I cant seem to get into any test options.  I installed the clr chip with the half moon notch on the right just as the chip i removed had that in the same spot as i did not see any arrows as previous mentioned in the other posts.  So :279- whats next.    

Possible good news ... I think you're getting really close, but I'm going to have you repeat things that you might have already done.  Sorry!

You're right with the first ding only.  Once you get past the CMOS data issue, then you should ...

1)  Open the door back up.

2)  Press/hold the white Reset button.  You most likely will not hear a second ding.

3)  Close the door.  THIS STEP IS IMPORTANT.

4)  Turn the key.

These 4 steps must be taken in this order.  The door needs to be CLOSED after step 2 and then you turn the Jackpot Reset key.

Sometimes you have to do this several times, but it should clear the "Call Attendant" error.

Crossing fingers ...

when i power it up i have call attendant.  When i open the door i get the door open, call attendant  and the eeprom data.  The only time i dont get the eeprom data is the first time after i use the clr chip that is when it says cmos  and when i get done closing the door and turning the key it ends up with just a call atendant message.  The next time i open the door it will have the eeprom data message along with door open and call attendant.   :103-.   

Yikes!  Sounds like you have a bad EPROM chip.  I believe that's the one above the game chip.

Unfortunately, I'm out of my league on this one as I'm not a tech either.  Hopefully, one of the others on the board can help you out with this one.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

Why did you turn the key twice?  I'm not saying that's causing your problems, but you're only supposed to turn it once after you've closed the door, after you got the "ding".

I'm wondering if your EEPROM (note, this is different from most of the EPROM chips -- note the extra "E") might be bad.  The EEPROM is soldered to the motherboard (the fixed board that is mounted on the floor of the machine, which the removable MPU board plugs in to).  If you're handy with a soldering iron you could replace it, or you could perhaps find someone else who can replace it for you, or buy a known working PE+ upright motherboard.

Why did you turn the key twice?  I'm not saying that's causing your problems, but you're only supposed to turn it once after you've closed the door, after you got the "ding".

Just so were all on the same page,  after i use the clr chip and then change it back to the game chip and power up i have a door open call attendant.  I then press the white reset button and hold it for at least 5 seconds. at about 3 seconds into it i get a  ding. I continue to hold till i hit 5 seconds. i then release the switch.  I then have  door open, call attendant, cmos data on the screen.  then i close the door and lower the latch on the side and then the door open message goes out.  All i have now is call attendant and cmos data.  I now turn the key one time.  The screen erases all the messages and a few seconds later i get call attendant.  At this point if i open the door i will get the call attendant door open and the eeprom message.  If i open the door and try to run the reset procedure i wil not get any ding and when i close the door and lower the latch it will not put out the door open message. If i turn the key once at this point the messages go out and the statistical screen comes up and i can read the meter settings but that is it. I then have to turn the key  a second time to get i to go beyond that screen and then it goes thru verifying game memory twice and ends up at  call attendant. 



When i put the clr chip in and turn it on i get the first pic.  When i hit the reset button i get the second pic .  DOnt know if thats what i should get with the clr chip or not. Just letting you guys know .

I've never had to use that, but I'd say it's a good gamble that "EEPROM data failure" isn't a message of success. I'm really leaning towards a bad EEPROM on the motherboard.

anyone have a picture of what this eeprom chip looks like?  I looked at the motherboard and dont see any ic chips.

I think this is a slant top motherboard, but this is what you're looking for -- it's a tiny square non-socketed chip.

(http://i40.tinypic.com/257j1fo.jpg)

OK so i think i found it see pic. SO the next obvious question any idea where i get a replacement?

So i called my bud thats an electrical engineer and he hooked me up with where to order the chip.  Probably a week or so before I get it and then off to the avionics shop at work to have some one remove and replace it.  Will keep you posted as to how it turns out. My bud seems to think it is trying to erase data on that chip and it cant and thats why it is stuck getting the eeprom message,hence the name of the chip elec-erasable prom...go figure had to ask the engineer what it meant.

OK guys, seems like it took longer then a week to get someone to do the repair.  Finally got the board back and the EEPROM message is gone .  :3-, now for the bad news.  Still doesnt work...  It all appears to be working as now i have all the test screens and everything.  I have a coin in the comparator and when i close the door and hit reset everything appears to be normal except on the left side it said closure restart.  I used the clear chip and reset everything .  The closure restart is gone and now it all says is  closure.  I tried resetting it again but same results.  If you drop a coin in it falls straight thru the machine.  So any ideas on where i should go next.  Hey we are making progress as the problem that it originally had is gone.  Thanks for all the help...

That's good progress.

Restart just means that the machine was recently powered on after being turned off.

Closure is the opposite of "Door Open", meaning that the machine detected a door was open, but now it's closed. As long as there are no other tilt messages, a closure message is a good indication that the machine is ready to accept a coin.

Make sure that your sample coin is in good condition and is properly seated in the comparator. Make sure the wiring to the comparator is plugged in securely with no broken or pinched wires.

Try adjusting the sensitivity of the comparator to make it less likely to reject coins. See this post for details:

 http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=10759.msg93615#msg93615

I suggest turning it back and forth a few times to clean the pot, then all the way away from the + (all the way CCW), then once you hit that edge, turn it back towards the + (CW) just the slightest bit.

 :3- You guys are the Bomb :131-  It works....  :3- Couldnt be happier with all the support and information you guys gave me.  I hope my donation was sufficient and it helps keep the site going as i couldnt have done it without all the help.  One last question.  IS it best to leave it plugged in and running all the time or is it better to shut it down for long periods of time?  Thanks again guys. :88-

 :105- :105-
On the repair.

The debate between leave a machine on or turn it off has been debated here before.
Both side have good points, however with a older machine equipped with a CRT monitor, I turn them off. If it was a older machine that had a LCD conversion I would leave it on.

Personally I don't trust CRT's and don't like the screen burn it creates with extended time left on. That's why screen savers were invented when computers used CRT monitors.

 :136-

Congrats on getting it working, and thanks for your donation to help support the site!  Joey will get you set up with a nifty green "Contributing Member" badge soon, I'm sure.

I looked back in the thread, and you did a lot of great work to get the machine up and running.  Great job sticking with it -- I hope you enjoy the fruits of your labor.   :89-

I'd agree with Neonkiss -- the screen is going to get burned enough from normal use, I would not leave it on constantly, unless you plan to play it daily.